@OpdShep 56 once I figure out how to post photos here I will put them on..
I can change a core O ring in less than 4 hours put can’t figure out the posting of photos thing here
GILBERTD, RRToad, the twat that he is, banned me for asking him why he replies to most members questions with the “its in the RAVE, please take the time to look it up there blah de fuckin blah ad nauseam blah blah take the time ethic etc”? I pointed out that his replies would take more time than answering the bloody question. I hadn’t taken into consideration the fact that he probably has this replay as a cut and paste and uses it willy nilly... but still!!!!
He then took the time to ban me and pointed out that I was banned for ever and a day......
Sad part is that he is ruining a very good website. I got a ton of informative info from the members there during the LINLEY rebuild and my second last post on the forum was me acknowledging that fact and thanking the members who helped me.
The LINLEY is finally painted and had a teflon coating applied recently. It’s parked in our garage in Connecticut and I plan on taking her to some LandRover events in the Northeast, USA over the next few years.
@MartyUK.... I totally know how you feel with the frustration of P38 ownership when all goes to shit.
I cant tell you the amount of times I wanted to push mine off a bridge whilst I was repairing them but I’m glad I didn’t.
Every time I look my P38s as I walk across a parking lot towards them I realize that there’s nothing in the entire lot that compares to mine. Added to that is the fact that I know them inside out. Newer cars are as common as muck but you rarely see a P38 on the road.
Keep the faith.
Ive had my H&H down to the bare bones and the Linley has been completely rebuilt from the tyres up. I can honestly attest to the fact that my blood sweat and tears are in my P38s. I certainly wouldn’t have the same enthusiasm for a newer vehicle.....
They are worth it.... Walk away from it and have a cup of tea.... all will be grand and you will be glad you kept it
@Gilbertd, can the speed controller be swapped out easily enough or am i only prolonging the inevitable?
@Gilbertd, can the speed controller be swapped out easily enough or am i only prolonging the inevitable?
Haha.... understood.
Removal of Right Blower motor it is....
Hoping that a cleaning of the contacts etc will resolve the issue...
@Gilbertd....you wrote the following ‘Relay 6 controls the Right blower motor, passenger side in your case, so it is the Left hand one that has died. ‘
This has me confused a little bit.... can you confirm that Relay 6 controls the right blower motor?
Your message suggests that it’s left hand one that has died
Update.
With the R6 relay in the fans blow high once I put the key in ignition and I have no control of its speed from HEVAC control unit. When I pull the R6 relay the HEVAC controller can control fan speed, although at a lower volume of air due to only one fan operating.
I swapped the fuse/relay box located under the bonnet out with another unit and the same occurs.
Do I need to replace the fan or is there a component that needs attention? Which side fan does the R6 relay control?
Yes the book symbol with exclamation mark is there.
I swapped the HEVAC control head with another vehicle to troubleshoot and see if that would resolve the issue. No luck.
Blend motors work fine. HEVAC control panel can control heat and AC. Issue of fan speed staying on in a continuous non controllable speed is still there regardless of input from either the original or swapped control unit.
I did notice that Relay R6 was showing signs of melting on it’s top and sides. I replaced it with another relay and the new one began to get hot as a pistol. Electricity is not my chosen subject but I assume that there is a problem here. Issue is what would make two different relays in position R6 stay shut or overheat?
Any ideas?
AC compressor runs fine producing 37F air
Blower speed is on high and I can’t change speed on head unit from high even by rotating dial and getting low speed 1 bar symbol on display
Stopped vehicle and pulled out fan and compressor relays
Found fan relay was black and slightly melted
I put a new relay in and it got hot as a pistol fairly quickly then removed it
Any ideas where I should start troubleshooting?
Thanks for the words Gilbertd….
She is a very clean example and you are right... postage would make it prohibitive to sell in UK.
Ive listed her on www.ebay.com the usa one...Cheers
I’m selling my P38 WESTMINSTER.
I wanted to offer it here on this forum before posting it on eBay over the weekend.
Vehicles paint is original and, as it has been kept in a garage it’s entire life, is in 8/10 condition. The interior is a 9/10 with no sagging headliner, no tears or scratches on the seats and the carpet in excellent shape. The entire AC system has been rebuilt.
The vehicle had been maintained by a Landrover dealership and later by a good quality independent garage. I have a huge file of receipts.
Reason for sale is that I want to repaint my Holland & Holland and focus on that vehicle. The WESTMINSTER deserves a good home.
It’s located in Laurel, Maryland.
I can send photos and details to those who are genuinely interested.
Email me at jmccarthyu3k@yahoo.com
The strip came with the clips so that’s not an issue.
It’s a pain in the ar$e and I’m having to walk away from the job of fitting it every 20 minutes....
Ok I resolved the issue. Kind of...
Radio was indeed DLS. I unplugged the connections in the rear cargo to the NAV unit and found that sound came from all speakers on the right side. By tinkering with the BALANCE button I was able to set the balance to L5 and it was enough to give me a perfect balance of sound.
Not ideal but it beats listening to a stereo that was reminiscent of driving to the beach in my dadsFord Cortina that had one speaker on the rear parcel shelf....
I have had to replace the top window trim that runs the width of the upper windshield on the outside of the P38. As usual, it was easy to remove and as usual the replacement part is a mare to install.
Does anyone have any history with installing this thing?
Thanks. She’s not DSP....
I’m going to swap radio heads between two P38s and see if this radio works in the other vehicle and vice versa.... Start with the easy cheap stuff....
Problem solved.
I pulled the battery, charged it on a slow charge, put it back in, took vehicle for a test drive and alls right in the world of RPMs.
But..... it being a P38, she wasn't happy to be all fixed and running so it decided to blow an oil cooler line as I pulled into driveway (I’ll take pulling into driveway over it going on highway 200 miles from civilization). Threw oil all over engine bay and driveway like the Exxon Valdez. Fortunately, I happened to have a donor P38 and 45 minutes later we are good as new.
From my experiences on these P38s, a lot of issues can be addressed by making sure your battery is good.
Had P38 sitting for a few weeks after its paint job while waiting for the time to get her ceramic coated. Battery dead as a door nail. Started after a charge and a jump.
Driving to detail shop at 65MPH I was doing 3100RPM. She seemed to be accelerating through the gears fine but I never felt her drop to the final gear. Pulled over and started again but no change. Didn’t have an issue before I parked her up.
Question to forum, could the high RPMs be a result of a dud battery? Anyone have experience with this issue?
Morat, I couldn’t tell you what type of setup it has. There is no speaker in the dash. How do I identify if it has DSP?
Gilbertd, can you be more specific?