I’m selling my P38 WESTMINSTER.
I wanted to offer it here on this forum before posting it on eBay over the weekend.
Vehicles paint is original and, as it has been kept in a garage it’s entire life, is in 8/10 condition. The interior is a 9/10 with no sagging headliner, no tears or scratches on the seats and the carpet in excellent shape. The entire AC system has been rebuilt.
The vehicle had been maintained by a Landrover dealership and later by a good quality independent garage. I have a huge file of receipts.
Reason for sale is that I want to repaint my Holland & Holland and focus on that vehicle. The WESTMINSTER deserves a good home.
It’s located in Laurel, Maryland.
I can send photos and details to those who are genuinely interested.
Email me at jmccarthyu3k@yahoo.com
The strip came with the clips so that’s not an issue.
It’s a pain in the ar$e and I’m having to walk away from the job of fitting it every 20 minutes....
Ok I resolved the issue. Kind of...
Radio was indeed DLS. I unplugged the connections in the rear cargo to the NAV unit and found that sound came from all speakers on the right side. By tinkering with the BALANCE button I was able to set the balance to L5 and it was enough to give me a perfect balance of sound.
Not ideal but it beats listening to a stereo that was reminiscent of driving to the beach in my dadsFord Cortina that had one speaker on the rear parcel shelf....
I have had to replace the top window trim that runs the width of the upper windshield on the outside of the P38. As usual, it was easy to remove and as usual the replacement part is a mare to install.
Does anyone have any history with installing this thing?
Thanks. She’s not DSP....
I’m going to swap radio heads between two P38s and see if this radio works in the other vehicle and vice versa.... Start with the easy cheap stuff....
Problem solved.
I pulled the battery, charged it on a slow charge, put it back in, took vehicle for a test drive and alls right in the world of RPMs.
But..... it being a P38, she wasn't happy to be all fixed and running so it decided to blow an oil cooler line as I pulled into driveway (I’ll take pulling into driveway over it going on highway 200 miles from civilization). Threw oil all over engine bay and driveway like the Exxon Valdez. Fortunately, I happened to have a donor P38 and 45 minutes later we are good as new.
From my experiences on these P38s, a lot of issues can be addressed by making sure your battery is good.
Had P38 sitting for a few weeks after its paint job while waiting for the time to get her ceramic coated. Battery dead as a door nail. Started after a charge and a jump.
Driving to detail shop at 65MPH I was doing 3100RPM. She seemed to be accelerating through the gears fine but I never felt her drop to the final gear. Pulled over and started again but no change. Didn’t have an issue before I parked her up.
Question to forum, could the high RPMs be a result of a dud battery? Anyone have experience with this issue?
Morat, I couldn’t tell you what type of setup it has. There is no speaker in the dash. How do I identify if it has DSP?
Gilbertd, can you be more specific?
WESTMINSTER P38...
Stereo only plays sound out the right speakers.
Adjusting the Balance or Fade buttons makes no difference.
I’ve pulled plugs out of the back end of Nav unit but no change.
Stereo worked fine when I shut the vehicle off last night.
Any ideas?
LINLEY has finally be completed. Paint job finished and she’s ready for show.
The keen eyes amongst you may notice a few things I added to her that was not LINLEY spec but I believe makes her look neater and more sleek.
Firstly, I used centre caps from the HSE Sport (#LR094547) which are black with Land Rover in a silver logo instead of the silver ones with Green Land Rover logo.
Secondly, I replaced the front and rear Land Rover emblems with the HSE Sport Black emblems to match the paintwork and finally I had the body trim moldings painted to match the smooth gloss black finish of the bumpers instead of the standard black rubber look that was on the originals. I am going to get a ceramic coat put on it In May.
I left the mud flaps off for the time being to see if she looks more “civilized” without them. Haven’t made my mind up on that yet. The amber turn signal on the front body panel is not the correct one, the original was the clear ones, and this was put on in error at the paint shop (how this happened is beyond me because I didn’t bring it in with an orange turn signal) but since this photo was taken the correct lens has been put on it.
But she’s done and that’s almost 2 years work completed on her. Everything works and almost every part has been replaced on it. I’d be brazen enough to say that she is as good as new. The main things I’m proud of on her are that the air suspension works like new, the front heated seats work, the heated windshield works, there is no book symbol on the HEVAC Control, there are no faults in the vehicle, I’ve a brand new set of keys including FOBs and a valet key as I replaced the sticking drivers door handle and ignition key barrel plus the navigation system works and I have a full set of North American navigation CDs along with the Canadian set. The black lambs wool front and rear rugs are also still with the vehicle. An original mint condition LINLEY Press Pack, that was only given out in limited numbers, is also included with the vehicle.
I was also able to get a copy of the original build sheets for this specific vehicles VIN which included a list of all the special order parts.
About to turn my attention to the H&H and put her back on bags and the same with the Westminster....
I’ll post better staged photos of her after the ceramic work as the two I’ve attached here do not really do her justice but I wanted to show her as soon as she was complete.
From memory I believe that you have to put the cover in a vertical position and lift it straight up, if that makes sense.
The cover has two plastic tube shaped attachments on either end. There are slots cut out of these two attachments. On the vehicle side there are two pins. The slots on the spare wheel cover have to be aligned so as to allow the cover to lift up.
All that sounds complicated but once you have it removed you will see what it’s all about.
In layman’s terms, open the spare wheel cover, raise it to a 90 degree position and lift it vertically. That should do it. If not try various angles but I would bet my dogs dinner on the 90 degree position. That’s how mine is set up....
On it. In process of moving house so everything related to vehicles are in storage for the foreseeable future...
Passive immobilisation..... how do I turn it on and off?
Stereo in P38 went on the blink the other day. No volume control on head or steering wheel and sound only coming from one rear speaker and now auto adjust.
I unplugged the wiring from navigation unit in boot and stereo works a charm....
I don’t need the navigation system as it’s about as useful these days as using a paper map BUT being a stickler for keeping these vehicles original, I have to ask, will a replacement Navigation unit fix my problem or is it a different issue, all be it related to the navigation unit?
original fob looked like the dog chewed it.
I’ve tried pressing the lock button, waiting for light to flas quicker, turn key to lock, hold and return to middle position. The. Press open button until light flashes faster, turn key to open position, pause then back to center position and all combinations there of yet the bloody thing won’t sync for central locking. That’s after replacing batteries in FOB. This FOB is the original one and worked fine prior to changing its batteries.
My RR worship manual is in lockup as we are moving house and I’m at a loss....
Surely there is a proven method to doing this...
Gilbertd, I was able to order not one, but two complete lock sets for my vehicles. I went to buy one at the dealerships and when the guy behind counter said “yes we can get it” I bagged two. I did have to supply my original Vehicle titles for both P38s, my drivers license and a lot of cash, but I justified the $$ by the rarity of the vehicles and the perceived difficulty in getting a full set. Both sets of locks were cut based on my vehicles VIN numbers.
If people want to get these lock sets send me a message and I will forward you the dealerships address. Bear in mind, however, that you have to go there in person....
I called the dealership last pm and they advised that they could program the key to the vehicle if I brought it in.... bad news is that there is a waiting time of 3 weeks to get in there. Apparently, according to the service manager, they should have offered to program the key to vehicle when I bought the set...
Let’s see how that goes.
Onto the main subject, can anyone tell me a fool proof 100% certain way to get my FOB to work on the central locking..... this is for the vehicle I removed the battery from for a while and now the remote fob won’t work in opening and locking doors.....
I’ve replaced the drivers door handle on my P38 with a brand new factory one. I got the complete set including ignition barrel, door handle, 2 FOB keys, a glovebox latch and a valet key.
All work fine BUT .......
I cannot get the key to sync the central locking.
Whilst there are numerous “this is how you sync the key” methods on the net, I am actually blue in the my face from trying.
I know it’s the techniques I’ve been using because I recently changed the battery in another P38 and I can’t get the central locking to work off the FOB.
So.... does anyone have a “tried it a hundred times and I guarantee it works” method to get the key to synce central locking remotely?
FWIW....
Remove the latch, open the screws holding it together and you may find that the “grease” used on the gears has hardened and binding the thing.
Give the lot a shot of lube, put it back together again, connect the wiring and test it.
Not saying it will work but two of my three P38s have had latches “fail” because of this...
Put a blow torch to it... heat the metal .... don’t cut the steering wheel