Just check all power to the various SAI items. 12v is being powered to all parts. All the electrical equipment associated with the SAI are new items and still this stutter 15 seconds after a warm engine start.
With all the knowledge here on the forum there surely has to be an answer to this. Im using top grade fuel, did a Seafoam run twice. Coils, leads and plugs are all 6 months old.
FWIW, I did the voltage test between pins. When sun arises in AM I will check all the above from the earth point of battery and report back. In my defense, I did state in post that electricity os not my bag….
Failing all else, would there be a known work around this bloody “save the world” SAI system that will stop my vehicle from stuttering every time i start it when warm?
I went and did a voltage check on the power to:
Both have same 7 volts. Electrics are not my bag….
Would I be wrong in assuming voltage loss due to a bad ground?
Do both these systems share the same grounding point?
Would anyone have a wiring diagram of the electrical system for the SAI system?
I suppose I could but then I’d have nothing to do …….
FWIW, I put a multimeter at the plug for the solenoid and it reads 7.3V! Whats that all about?
Wits end….
MAF not the issue
SAI pump not the issue
New SAI Solenoid not the issue
When she was doing this I removed the hose from the SAI Solenoid leaving to the manifold then covered the pipe with my thumb, the engine idled correctly. When I released my thumb she went lumpy again. I then attached the hose and she had the same lumpiness.
There is vacuum…..
Where does the hose from the SAI solenoid that runs towards the firewall go to? IF this hose was disconnected along the route from Solenoid to wherever it goes would it cause this lumpiness? I cant for the life of me see where it leads to and the RR Maine-tenancy manual doesn’t help…
Cylinders 4 and 8 use different coil packs.
Swapped the SAI pump……. No change…. Issue still present.
SAI solenoid next up…..
I’ll also swap the SAI pump out with my “donor” at the same time….
Thanks Gilbert……
I’ve ordered a Secondary Air Injection Solenoid and will report back…
Cheers
She finally threw codes…
P0413 Secondary Air Injection
P0300 Multiple Misfires
P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
Thoughts?
Gilbertd; I probably didn’t describe the issue correctly.
When I start the vehicle and it’s stone cold it has no issues, no rough idle …. All is normal. The roughness only occurs after I turn engine off, leave it off for anywhere more than 3 minutes, then restart it. Then she will idle normally for a few seconds, then idle rough for 15-25 seconds then smooth out again. After this she will operate fine with no roughness at any stage.
If I rev the vehicle a bit during this rough idle she will run smooth…. It’s the initial roughness after a warm start that’s the issue….
That being said, I will swap the IACV valves with my now fast becoming “donor” and see what’s what then report back.
Thanks
Title sounds like an adult movie but…..
2001 4.6.145,650 miles.
Brief recent maintenance history:
Changed the plugs, leads, oil, filter, cabin filters, air filter about 500 miles ago.
About 200 miles ago after starting when warm she starts fine, idles fine for about 5-10 seconds then idles rough (about 600-850 RPM) for about 15-25 seconds then smooths out and no issues at idle or driving. There are no engine warnings and the NANOCOM is not showing any faults. I swapped a brand new MAF out with my other restored P38 to no avail. I’m running the highest octane fuel and did a Seafoam additive at last service (145,000 miles).
She starts without this issue when stone cold….
Thoughts?
Thanks for all the input…. I’ve checked everything as mentioned prior to making the post….
I’m going to have to put it down to global warming and continue to top ‘‘em up…..
I’m losing about a quart of oil every 200-300 miles. The underneath is dry with no visible leaks. Nothing around the engine anywhere. No blue smoke on start up, no blue smoke driving. Nothing…..
I’m now also losing about a cup of water from reservoir about every 300 miles. Again, no visible leaks, no dampness after she sits. No white smoke, no rough idle and no issues anywhere.
Complete mystery….. half afraid that this is the signs of an impending head gasket leaking…….
Thoughts?
….. any opinions on the brand of gaskets themselves?
Changing the rocker cover gaskets in a week or two or sometime ….. anything else that Forum members would recommend doing when I start the project whilst I’m at it?
Got to get the bloody dash fan thing sorted first though…..
@Harv……unless you happen to leave your keys inside when you pop out to open the bonnet to refill the washer fluid while parked at pump #3 at a Shell service station in the pishing rain only to find yourself locked out and red faced with an understandably impatient boll@x behind in a 22 reg Mercedes, then I would imagine your view of the safety feature may change to one of “Why in the name of all F&%KS would someone design such a thing?”
Not that this ever happened to me….
I haven’t gotten to it yet…..
I did the proverbial “thread pull” on a damp front drivers floor….. Turns out that two of the the lower window stripping attachments had pulled out of their housings (brittleness by the looks of it) causing water to run down off windshield and through the two holes where the remains of the lower window stripping faster resided. Not a lot of water, but enough to bother me. Not a big job, R&R exterior side “A” frame covers blah blah…. BUT, I did replace the stripping with a new one. Annoyingly the stripping came with two missing fasteners which put the project back a week or two waiting for replacements.
Ill get to the small fan this week, unless I find another thread to pull
Thank you….