Hi, as many of You might know, that the fuseboxes are no longer available new. As there're several variants, has anyone done a comparison, maybe just the pins in the pugs have to be rearranged? Upper Layout versus connector side layout?
As far as I know, the late Diesel Fuse boxes are still in stock?
I guess it means a side by side comparison of the several editions of the Electrical trouble shooting manuals? How many editions are around? I have four or six on my mind?
i am looking for the dimensions of the fuel line O-Ring for the P38 GEMS (RR Classic and D1, too). Seems they find use in the power steering lines as well.
Esr259 ... need the dimensions to order them here, fast ;-)
Thanks in advance
Hi at all, one my P38 fellows has a strange problem. When he inserts the key in he ignition barrel the alarm sets of ... horn/indicator. Fob unlocks and locks without any issues. Anyone ever had this phenomena? Hints, where to start? Car is not with me at the moment ...
Hi, I am searching for the part number and/or technical name for the finisher, which closes the gap at the headlining around the sunroof. Fitted a new headliner and as always , the old one doesn't look nice. I guess they are not available new any more, but it does look like a usual automotive part and there should be substitutes around ... anyone a tip?
I have searched the parts catalogues, but can't find the item :-(
I discovered to today while driving a P38 4.6 Motronic/Thor from a friend, that the air con fans cool down the engine, after it has been switched of. Nice feature, which I always wanted on my own GEMS V8. Now I compared the Electrical trouble shooting manuals of my model year (98 VIN WA) to the 99 onwards ETM and both say the air con fans will be running after engine is switched off, for cooling purposes? Does the GEMS Efi has this feature? There are three relays on both models (13/14/18) which I do maybe understand, but I never experienced my fans running after switching off the engine (or I never heard it?) ... I will test according to the ETM the function of the relays and fans tomorrow on my car, but any hints/tipps on this subject are highly appreciated! happy rangerovering
Hi @all, a fellow enthusiast has probs with his 97 P38 with the 4HP24EH gearbox. Sometimes in the last days the car had either lost drive (neither forward, nor reverse) while driving or from startup. No messages, just no drive. No mechanical sounds he says. Oil level is fine and correct checked. And it recovers mystically self and then he can drive again. Gear selection works, as lever moves and gear indicator in the message centre are corresponding. Transfer box can be switched between high and low. Now we are a bit lost, where to start next steps for researching the cause ... any hints re greatly appreciated!
Hi Folks, I am in the process of doing my interior. Some of the wooden panels I bought have some scratches which I want to remove and get them shiny as the NOS parts I was lucky to get.
Has anyone done that before and can share some experiences and recommend methods or products?
it is the more "plastic" wood, not like the Classic or H&H real wood.
I thought of polishing with some stuff for acrylic surface. Maybe some clear coating afterwards?
As well the transparent gear lever surround is scratched and all the used ones don't look better ;-) Any tips for that, too?
Would be great.
Hi @all, I am searching for four upper retaining clips / fasteners for the genuine rubber floor mats / carpet mats for the P38. Anyone know a source, they seem to be some kind of twist lock and I haven't found any thread about it nor source on ebay etc ... any hint / tip is highly appreciated. Thanks in advance
They are the upper parts in image 7 and 8.
Hi, I am planning to change my old LUCAS injectors (single hole) ERR722 injectors for some 4 hole Bosch injectors (coming from germany they are easier available, than Ford ones). Does anyone have a proper part number or better the specs of the LUCAS injectors in normed flow rate and resistance for comparison? Or some Bosch part numbers, I have gotten many contradicting informations so far and hope that someone has done this with positive experience before.
thanks in advance.
Hi folks, I know there's rave, EPC, microcat around, but I am searching for a pdf version of the printed parts catalogue. I managed to find one scanned from 1995 but this one lacks, obviously, all later models and variants.
Does anyone have access to a file and is willing to share? Would be gr8!
THX in advance.
happy covering KCR
I have a somewhat delicate Question ... really asking for a friend ;-)
He has a 2001 Thor P38 and messaged me, if I could help him to get the doors open, without his key, which is locked inside.
I know how I would tackle this with my GEMS own P38, but the microswitches in my drivers door are working, I have two working fobs, key code and procedure trained and available and the super lock electrically disabled. I would definitely nit have this problem, but as far as I have informations, yet: He has locked his only key in the car and it is a 2001 Thor one.
I think there are some factors, like battery discharged and reconnected or other circumstances, which would make a huge difference in trying to come in the car.
If he has alarm enabled, super lockable doors, no second key ... there might be some important things to look for, how to get into the car.
My concern is avoiding to bring this sensible Diva of BECM to avoid thinking it could have got be stolen (which would be, btw a sure sign of mental disorder - we know what I am talking about, while reading this ;-) and get into this nasty super lock down mode, where You need the special expensive module for some diagnostic software and soldering skins, which will keep You horribly electrically banned from Your car. As far as I know, there is not OBD connectable possibility of getting into the BECM, because lock up means terminating input from this interface, which is very relaxing having such a safe car, but is an annoyance in situations, which might occur by stupid or reckless approaching this special kind of problem.
pls. only private messages, I hope to be trustworthy enough for getting details, which should NOT be written in a public forum? Hope You'll agree. So it is a public call for private assistance. But I promise to help other fellow P39 owners in this situation to give help and assistance (like I always do, e.g. right now).
What should I have take care for?
What to look at?
Thanks in advance
Hi, just wanted to report that the swap from the older amr1173 (silver box - GEMS) to the newer AMR5700 (blackbox-THOR) has worked out great for me.
My cc was working only intermittently so I built with a good friend with better soldering equipment and much more experience, an adaptor like the one described in the link:
We even copied the idea of cutting the box ;-) better a good copy than a bad innovation ...
The new(er) ECU just fits exactly where the old one was located and there's plenty of space for the adaptor behind the dash.
It switches much smoother, than the old one (at least as mine did, IF it was working).
Just make sure You get one matched for Your engine / car. There are four versions circulating around: Disco V8 4.0 and 4.6, Range 4.0 and 4.6 and a setting, which I do not know, called "default". Got this information from a diagnostic manufacturers website and it is approved by a few articles in other forums. The used parts dealer always try to sell You, what they have stating the part number counts ...
So if You suspect Your ECU to be the reason for strange behaviour (or none) of Your cc, give it a try. The AMR5700 are really cheap to get and a working cc is worth the effort.
If You can not solder, find a good old friend who likes drinking whisky as much, as Yourself ... let's talk about maximising reasons to cheer / toast ;-)
As the ECU is fitted to the RR Classic and Discovery 1 it might work there as well, as described in the link.
Hi, I am looking for a hint / tip for a good and easy pick up point for the 12V ignition fed 15+ for an additional warning light / led which I am going to install in the instrument cluster.
It will indicate low coolant level, as I installed already a different head tank with sensor. The RR Classic had this feature and I think its with the effort.
As everything in the P38 is switched to ground by the BECM I am hesitant to just cut in an existing line?
Any good starting points? The typical cigar lighter hack?
What do You guys recommend?
THX in advance
Hi, as I have a spare set of centre console side wings in black and can not find them genuine in TAN online (at least not in a condition or price) I want to give it a try in spraying them myself. Can anyone help me with a color code or color name which resembles the genuine TAN / brown color?
Tipps for spraying them are also welcomed.
Thanks in advance
a friend of mine with a P38 (LHD) has told me, that he has the dancing door locks syndrome.
After some research I found three possible routes: 1) a broken wire which touches the winding mechanism of the window, 2) a micro switch in the front(?) door locks (can it be one rear also?) or 3) an error in the BECM.
Obviously 1 means pulling the door cards, wire contact should be visible
2) How can I check / find out which door lock causes the trouble or change them both anyway?
3) Any hints or tips how to check / rule out the BECM without first installing new door locks and finding it out the expensive way?
As it is LHD and the rear tail gate button is sometimes stuck is this caused by the door lock or just coincidence?
As far as I know the RH door lock controls the rear tailgate button, but as the dancing door locks are intermittent and sadly it did not happen, yet, when I was with the car, i can not correlate.
I have the RSW suite and a Hawkeye for diagnostics.
Any hints and tipps are highly welcomed!
Thanks in advance