The early models until VIN WA 1998 had different insulation. Several pieces of foam rubber (can’t remember the material code).
I have a set insulation, but it’s in Germany, so You might ask a local breaker…
There are 14 bolts and three nuts as far as the manual is correct. But I think I found what holes I remembered from reading about this conversion:
Hi Richard, thanks a lot! Unbelievable knowledge! From my - not the best - memory I had the idea that there were some wholes to drill and tap, but maybe my memory served me wrong. I will post an update, when I have will get more informations ...
Hope you all had nice Xmas!
Hi, I know that a few of us have done the swap, but the threads I found are missing the images. I knwo that I have to drill to holes, can this be done with the engine in the car?
Does the front cover fit? I want to swap the steel oil pan in my Gems for an aluminium from a Thor engine as it starts leaking and I have to do the crankshaft seals probably, anyway too.
Fully agree with Storey is a great guy! His software must helped many of us to keep our cars on the road. I have the EAS freeware and the V4 suite and very happy, except he cancelled support for XP ;-)
Finally spolved the strange problem ... after initially having the ignition barrel/lock under suspicion, we swapped the BECM to another one which has been programmed by a fellow enthusiast with the cars data (Keycodes, EKA etc.). Now everything works fine again. So sometimes it is really the BECM. Maybe we´ll find out wether it was the power board or the logic board of the BECM, but that is far beyond my personal capabillities. I just did the diagnosis and swapped the BECM and did some stuff with my diagnostics (synching EMS-BECM).
Hi, as many of You might know, that the fuseboxes are no longer available new. As there're several variants, has anyone done a comparison, maybe just the pins in the pugs have to be rearranged? Upper Layout versus connector side layout?
As far as I know, the late Diesel Fuse boxes are still in stock?
I guess it means a side by side comparison of the several editions of the Electrical trouble shooting manuals? How many editions are around? I have four or six on my mind?
Hi Richard, middle of the next week I´ll have a friends Motronic P38 here and I can check with my Nano the readings (and can compare to my own Gems).
What exactly should I look for if that is any help for You?
Grizzly … maybe too late. You should look for either a ECU from a 4.0 or have someone with a Motronic P38 and Diagnostic equipment, to change the settings. There are 5 of them, P38 4.0 & 4.6, Disco 2 4.0 & 4.6 and one which is called „default“. Hopefully You bought one with a plug and a pigtail?
If it is the P38 from Your signature it will have the older CC ECU, which is prone for intermittent operation. I swapped mine for a later one from the facelift model (made an adaptation with the plug like this one https://ejcruz.smugmug.com/Other/Range-Rover-P38/).
Worked fine for me since the swap.
BTW … it was, as suggested the door lock. We swapped both front locks and the phenomena disappeared. Funny enough it happened predictable at 23° C … an error with a threshold ;-)
8mm is correct, but they are 1.2 mm thick.
THX guys, GR8 as always.
Jumper means connecting cable to both of them like and leave them connected to the BECM or cutting them and joining them?
Another slightly off topic question … Bolt, what is a P38 HSK? Never heard that before …
Did I mention that I dislike very much the paternalistic Nanny State zero risc attitude which seems to be fancy ourdays? rant over
OK, the one I use has a car „master“ (german title) and some mechanics running around doing their own professional work, it is a mixture of DIY and free garage. I learned a lot from these guys and they are very helpful …
Í have a spare standalone GEMS EMS ECU, can anyone tell me what connectors have to be changed at the BECM to make it start and run anyway?
I understand that one can jump the relais (iIrc two starter and Idk) in the fuse box … but would prefer to go around the the hassle
I use extensively a „rental“ workshop with ramps/posts and it is heated and they have some tools, I otherwise have to buy. Since I found one very nice closely to my house, I do much more on my car (and the ones from fellows I take care off) For 12 €/h on a workshop place with a ramp post I will never, ever lay beneath my car again … 
Welcome … nice fleet! Sorry, driving on the other side of the road in continental europe ;-)
but at least, I drive british heritage … and I like some UK drinks very much!
Fully agree Echo-Echo, this forum is marvellous!
Like the idea of model specific meetings (and mixed ones, too) for parting with parts ... ;-)
What kind of fuel injection system?