I replaced the HP Pas line on my ML with one made up by Pirtek, a fraction of the price of a new Merc bit and even cheaper than one from a scrapyard. All new except (I think) they re-used one of the ends and didn't fit a metal section in the middle.

Mind you I have to replace the pas pump now... Not a problem caused by the new line though, the pump was on it's way out when I bought the car couple of years ago.

Not on Rangerovers but on other marques I've known quite a few people fit coolant temp sensors bought from Ebay... then wonder why their radiator cooling fan runs flat out as soon as the engine warms up a bit. It's because the sensors they bought are incorrect spec, so the ECU reads much higher engine temp than is actual. Seems a particular problem on V6 Nissan Skyline's, the proper part is a few times more expensive than a part with same thread, same electrical connector and listed on Ebay as compatible with V6 Skyline's. With the wrong sensor on them the ECU can easily read 100+C when actual is 80C (with the 80C confirmed by me via LPG reducer temp readings). The consensus of many owners clubs is 'they do run hot these engines... fan running nearly all the time is normal'! I found the consensus and problem when I converted a Nissan Maxima (I think they call them a Maxima... anyway it's a model of car only in the UK by grey import) which more or less has Skyline running gear but in a big estate car... the owner who hadn't had the car long before bringing it to me for LPG conversion reckoned the fan didn't used to run before LPG conversion yet it had a shiny new coolant temp sensor. I'd seen the fan run fast before I even touched the car but agreed I'd have a look to make sure I hadn't for example fitted the reducer close to an aircon line temp sensor (which could also trigger the fan). Soon found the real problem though, told him to fit a proper compatible sensor and that fixed the problem.

gordonjcp wrote:

I'd be terribly surprised if you couldn't find a suitable thermistor and make up a connector for it.

Or just connect the wires.
Lots of different spec thermistors are used in the LPG conversion scene and are dirt cheap. I chuck loads on the floor and eventually sweep them into a bin - Lots of LPG ECUs come supplied with a thermistor that would normally be fitted to the reducer... if the reducer didn't come supplied already fitted with a built in thermistor. Could send as many 2.2k thermistors as you like or could easily get hold of other specs.

I 'like' Gilbert's #20 post on this.
But I think most people's idea is to pretend they're using all the gas for heating purposes (chicken pens, etc) and none for road use thus avoiding paying any road fuel tax or just paying a bare minimum to cover their backs.
Unlike diesel (red) LPG isn't (and can't be) marked to differentiate between heating or off road fuel and road fuel.
Some suppliers will be happy to fill any tank almost regardless of how you've modded it, like by fitting a liquid take off to connect to a vehicle filling pump.
Can buy second hand 'Smiths' pumps (similar to those forecourts use) occasionally on EBay for £500. A UK spec bayonet type fill gun is a bit expensive but you can buy Italian dish type spec fillers new and reasonably cheaply from suppliers such as LPGshop and use an adaptor.
There isn't much duty on LPG when bought from a forecourt, legally you should pay the same duty if you fill at home. If you pay the duty it's likely to be no cheaper than filling at a reasonably priced forecourt... But it's possible to illegally avoid paying that duty, and then if you get a good deal on heating LPG it can work out way cheaper than filling on just about any forecourt.
Few years since I looked into it though. Even back then some suppliers wouldn't fill any tank except one you rented from them and would make sure you hadn't modded their tank - expensive. You'd need a supplier who would fill any tank (one you bought outright and cheap) and didn't ask any questions so would fill a tank that you'd modded by fitting a liquid take-off.
Quite fancy doing the same myself! Maybe I'll look into it again.

It'd be the first I'd heard of such problem too. I only ask because on forum there are people talking about rebuilding ABS valve blocks that have gone wrong, so I wondered since they go wrong if they ever go wrong in a way that causes that kind of thing. I suppose the valve blocks are made in such a way to be failsafe even if valves go wrong in the same way as solenoid packs for auto gearboxes.

Interesting.

Do TC systems that apply brakes ever go wrong in a way that sees them apply brakes when you wouldn't want them to? Wouldn't want to be driving along, some electronics or valve go wrong and cause brakes to come on hard at one corner.

I learned something else about P38s there. I know the model after my old BMW750 did the same, my model year just backed off the electronic throttle. Substitute for a LSD on the beemer but I reckon the braking system will be better than an LSD on a 4x4?

4 Wheel traction control... Do they brake a spinning wheel (that's lost traction) then?

Morat wrote:

Make him feel better, go on :)

Should have taken a few pics and posted them up Gilbert lol.

I once bought a Volvo V70 from Ebay, one company owner and LPG converted but the LPG system was broke, had a dent in the passenger side front wing and wheels were scabby. Fixed the LPG in about 5 minutes of getting it home but ran it with the dent and wheels as it was. Kept it a couple of years before selling it for more than I bought if for to a local old gent. Few weeks later saw him driving it around with it looking immaculate, dent and wheels sorted, only cost him £200 to sort, wished I'd never sold it.

I've converted a few that owners bought from scrapyards and fixed up, some apparently didn't need much work to pass an MOT and those owners much preferred classics over other models. Each to their own, these days getting out of a P38 into a classic seems to me a lot like getting out of a plush executive car into a series Landrover... but back when dad was a bit obsessed with series Landrovers there were many times when I'd have been very pleased if he'd bought a posh comfortable classic with a 'massive and thirsty' V8 that was probably just as economical as his 2&1/4 or 2&1/2 Landrovers and a lot more comfortable. My uncle bought a new E reg Rangerover diesel which ate it's manual gearbox with less than 1000 miles on the clock towing a mid sized caravan.

Didn't realise you used 19kg Calor bottles Bri.. You could fill them without raising forecourt staff eyebrows by attaching another fill point to the car and running pipe to the 19kg bottle in the car, suppliers sell fill fittings for the portable bottles. Potentially unsafe but not for you/us because we know to always run the bottle completely empty and then only put 38 litres in. Probably save around £17 on each refill plus have the convenience of filling the car and bottle on the same visit ;-)

But the real reason for me coming back to this thread was to ask Strangerover how much it will cost an 18 year old to insure a V8 P38? No wish to put a dampener on things but interested to know. I used to run V6 stuff when I was around that age a lot of years ago when insurance was a lot cheaper but even then it cost me an arm and a leg to get insured.

Parts arrived this morning. Going as well as I could have wished for really, looks like I'll manage to hide the entire air suspension gubbins that were previously in the centre of the spare wheel well still under the flap in the boot.

The owner opted for the square filler centre rear below bumper level, just made the bracket for that and waiting for the paint to dry before I can fit the tank.. but obviously I've already made sure it's all going to fit etc. Fitted the injectors and did some wiring yesterday, just about to route LPG and petrol return pipes while the paint is drying.

This morning I bought both sizes of fittings and piping plus a cutting tool, total £71.60 with free next day delivery. Never needed a cutting tool for this kind of thing before but for £6 why not.

The pipe we use in some types of modern straw type injectors is 6x1 and I have a few metres of that in stock, could probably use that for the 6x1 but still bought 20m from RS and another 20m from TinleyTech. Eventually I'll use all the 6x1 bought from TT but may never use all the 6x1 from RS, info on their site doesn't say whether it is compatible with hc's like oil, petrol or LPG but I'd be kicking myself if I didn't buy it and found that for some reason the 6x1 from TT wouldn't work with the inline joiners or Jag end fittings.

Besides extending the piping and re-mounting the reservoir and valve block there'll be quite a few wires to extend to the valve block too.

Thanks for the help.

Short reply for tonight... Thanks for that Gilbert, just the response I was hoping for.

Hadn't thought to check truck dealerships... you reckon they'll keep narrow gauge pneumatic pipe joiners in stock?
Been looking on RS Component's website but their search facility doesn't seem great when looking for this type of thing.
Ideally I'd prefer something like a simple push-in inline pipe joiner, the type where you just push the pipe into a plastic grommet before pushing into the hole job done... The joiner(s) need to be physically small so that I can either make the join between the tank and wheel well floor or make the join externally (after pushing the pipes back through the grommet - there's a space forward of the wheel well protected from the elements by a plastic under-tray).

Didn't enjoy converting a supercharged L322 last week.This week I'm converting an XJ8, more or less the same engine but without the supercharger, still needs a fuel return fitting, still needs a lube (but at least not electronic type)... But I wasn't counting on this car having air suspension stuff in the middle of the spare wheel well and it seems this air suspension stuff is going to be much more of a pain to shift than it is on an L322. Some pipes run through a rubber grommet in the wheel well floor to the suspension, pipes also run internal in the wheel well to the pump, so to shift it from the spare wheel well so I can fit the tank I'll have to extend the pipes.

Pic of the air suspension stuff in the wheel well

But how to extend the pipes... I don't want to have run new lengths of pipe to each suspension corner, pump, etc... I just want to buy more of the same types of pipe and use pipe joints. Can anyone help identify what type of pipe joints I need and where to get them in a hurry?

Here are some close up pics of the pipes marked 6x1 and 4x1 (which I take to mean 6mm diameter x 1mm wall thickness etc) and the end fittings which use little collets. Reckon I don't need to worry about the end fittings as I should be able to re-use them on the pipes I add as extensions, but I do need to buy some of this 6x1 and 4x1 pipe and fittings to connect 2 lengths of 6x1 together and 2 lengths of 4x1 together.

Anyone know where to get those bits in a hurry? I'm not sure what thread they are etc but I thought perhaps they're usually a standard type and some of the knowledgeable people here might know.

I didn't mean to post this in Opening Time, had a look to see if I could shift it but seems beyond my moderation powers... Higher mods feel free to shift this thread.

Thanks, Simon

RutlandRover wrote:

Doesn't that then give you a very unbalanced pulley that will vibrate more?

Just get it bang in the centre and put equal weight of weld at opposing sides. Often see old V / ribbed belts with bits missing out of them, the belts rotate equally as fast as the pulley but around a much larger diameter (because belts route around all the ancillaries)... usually isn't vibration from this condition which is probably a much more out of balance condition. Probably a bit harsher on the first driven ancillary (often AC) than with the rubber in place... but rather than £450 extra to fit a pulley with a rubber dampener that will go wrong again eventually I'd weld it up... That's if it's steel, mind you I'd probably try if it was any metal.

I've welded vibration damper type pulleys up before, works out even cheaper than scrapyards. Also welded up freewheeling type pulleys on alternators.. They never fail again after that!

I accidentally put a self tapper through a wire on Morat's P38, that was one of only 2 occasions I've ever done that on any of my LPG installs.
For a moment when flicking through this thread I got a bit worried, thought it was RutlandRover with the possible short circuit and I converted RutlandRover's car... But I didn't convert Strangerover's car so not guilty! Made it up to Morat since lol.

Sometimes get a brief spurious reading when you first connect up a digital multimeter, probably more of a reflection of it's sampling speed and averaging the reading between open circuit and load.