I think I've still got the 20 odd foot Shakespeare 27Mhz aerial with great big bits sticking out the side from the bottom that used to be on the chimney atop a scaffolding pole, and a 100 watt 'burner' somewhere, along with a few AM and side band 'rigs' that I adapted to go from 'super low' to 'super high' band.. Cybernet and Unidem boards. Cancel telly and make the ironing board talk type stuff hehe ;-)
SImon
Oldshep,
I've converted a lot of supercharged Rangerovers and they all run great on LPG (with no warning lights etc). They need additional components that add to the cost of conversion, not just because of the power although this adds to cost too, which I'll come to... A forced/electronic type valve lube system is a must and they need to have a petrol return system fitted. Comparatively expensive and extra components, coupled with the extra time to convert these properly (ensuring manifold mounted nozzles are fitted in the correct place) means I charge £1900 to convert this model... but that's doing them properly! 'Come to' bit.. 2 x reducers or AMR reducer, plus electronic lube plus fuel return means bits to convert already cost over £300 more than usual bits to convert most V8's, that;s without the extra time to install and calibrate properly factored in. Just justifying the cost ;-)
Above price is with an AMR reducer (or 2x other make reducers), MJ injectors, Flashlube electronic valve lube system, obviously the fuel return I mentioned, I used to fit AEB 8 cylinder electronics (such as King) on most V8 stuff including SC RR's but I think I'd prefer the KME Nevo ECU for this model now. There are threads on SC RR's I've converted on Lpgforum, just had a quick look and didn't find those threads so here's a pic of one I did..
!(http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r741/SimonAndrew/LPGC/LPGCConvertedRangeRoverSupercharged_zps9f844b0a.jpg "Supercharged Rangerover converted by Lpgc")
In the conversion in the pic 2 x MJ reducers are fitted, but 2 x Romano HD's or a single AMR reducer would be better. AMR wasn't available back then.
I don't really go down the tiered system route (bronze, silver, gold etc) that some installers come out with, it just doesn't really work like that. This system is capable of better results than what is usually considered 'top of range' systems such as BRC / Prins.. Gilbert'll probably back me up on that.
Cheers,
Simon
Just finished changing a brake cylinder and shocker on my son's old Hyundai Accent that'll be going to girlfriend's son in law for him to learn to drive in, sat in my car recharging laptop and waiting for a Freelander to be dropped off from an accident recovery firm.. I'm tasked with fixing the Freelander's LPG system, fitted less than a year ago by 'LPG Experts', because apparently ever since the accident (body damage repaired a while ago now) the LPG system has cut back to petrol when owner puts her foot down... Yeah rite! Me thinks it cut back to petrol when she put her foot down even before the accident but we'll see.. I bet she got a bad neck from the accident as well!
Morat, looks like most bits are BRC - Reducer is, ribbed back ECU could be Europgas or Piro but is most likely BRC Seq56 (since BRC/Bosch sensor is pictured T'd into reducer vac connection). Difficult to make injectors out as many types look similar to those but they'e not BRC - Maybe GFI, Tartarini, Rail. etc.. Which could be problematic on a more demanding engine if ECU is Seq56 as best results would only be with quicker injectors, but I reckon probably workable on the 4L Jeep. How does it drive on LPG?
Since nobody's been banned yet for talking Jeeps and this will still be under 300 words (ahem Gilbert! ;-) ]... My Jeep saw the road for the first time in years the other day, just a trip to the jet wash. Before standing it up I'd at least disconnected the battery, so that was OK just wanted a charge. Charged, checked engine and ancillaries weren't seized, it started first turn of the key and drove OKish except for some steering warble that'll be down to corroded discs, I hope. This has a K&N too...I nicked it's shallow design pre 2000 air box to fit on a post 2000 model I converted a few years ago. No clearance between air box and bonnet with new style air box and a mixer fitted. Would have been plenty of places to fit your ECU without the K&N...
Simon
Delete this - I messed up and posted twice.
Gilbert, might suggest waffle filter should be set at 785 words thus allowing some of the longer posts from yourself ;-) But yeah I'll hold my hand up to going on a bit!
Morat, will need a tune up in case of lambda or MAF problem corrected, let me know when you're ready for that and/or the Jeep looking at. A couple of times I've had to weld new boss's into P38 exhausts, boss coming off with the probe / stripped threads.
Simon
I would have replied sooner but I've been getting a server error every time I've tried the 'opening time' section since my last post.
Ahh Morat here too, hello again! Gilbert told me on the other forum about the self tapper I fitted going through wiring and I'm very sorry about that... Second time I've done that in all the time I've been installing, would have found and sorted it if you'd brought it back / if I'd known. Although I knew the names Miles and Morat I didn't equate them until now, sometimes forget who I've converted vehicles for etc, both names rang a positive bell though. At the time of your install I think I said it seemed to be running almost to the extent of fuel trims on petrol, maybe due to fuel pressure regulator or AFR, so I'd aimed for a fuel trim closer to nought when calibrating the install... Or was it just one bank of cylinder due to a lambda probe?
Gilbert, Shall I change my name from LPGC to Zippy for a bit? ;-) And yes sir Mr Mod sir, what's everyone having?
Simon
Hehe! Personally I wouldn't want to pay SnapOn prices but I also avoid SnapOff type tools. I sometimes visit garages that buy SnapOn (to do work there) and seeing the look on their mechanics faces when they think they've lost a socket or something little but might have cost £10, quite a big deal, when to me losing the same bit would be a trivial loss because I wouldn't have spent the same kind of money on it, confirms to me I struck the right balance. Also no worries modifying tools (i.e. cutting up and welding to them) to save time if the tool isn't expensive, a productivity boost to boot.
In keeping with my more modest use of tools etc - Fairy liquid is apparently as good at washing plates as it is for finding leaks etc, so some should be kept in the kitchen besides in the garage.
Simon
Hello!
I'm Simon Andrew, Lpgc on Lpgforum and well known to Gilbertd from there.
Was intrigued by one of Gilbert's recent comments there, enough to sway me to look at this forum, and I might be getting involved in doing head gaskets on a P38 soon and this forum seems full of experts (including Gilbert of course) so I joined up. I don't own a Rangerover myself but I work on plenty.
Well buga me, I'm to be moderated by Gilbertd... Everything in moderation though eh Gilbert hehe!
Regards
Simon