On LPGforum thread https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14613

Another useful modification would be to add a dish of rat poison to that area ;-)

They can be handy to have around, especially with a built in compressor / little invertor.
I prefer the type you can jump start from instantly rather than those that charge the car battery.
But types with sealed lead/acid batteries that you can jump start from instantly are usually in an over-sized housing and take up much more space than necessary. Built in extras like compressors are usually very low quality even by mini compressor standards and wear out very quickly.
Most with lead/acid batteries have their charge socket connected directly to the battery, so if you do leave plugged into a car cig lighter socket and the lighter socket isn't ignition switched, if anything flattens the car battery it will also flatten the jump start battery.

For a really good set of jump leads you're probably better off making your own from welding cable. The cost of copper to make a decent set of cables would be more than the full price of most cheap cables.

Just tying this thread off...

Pics of finished engine bay

Engine / mixers etc

Reducer

I too think the Quaife LSD overkill Clive, especially with the twin wheels on the back.

Some pics and a bit of a write up / questions :-)

SU mixer

I went to the specialist bolts supplier I use in Doncaster (Bapps) but they didn't have any longer studs in stock (apparently they would usually be able to supply 5/16ths UNF thread studs but not at this time). They did have that thread in bolts but the threads were only an inch up the bolt then a straight shank... I did try cutting the heads off said bolts and dieing the other end to M8 but that didn't work... So I tapped the carb holes M8 and made some M8 studs then fitted an M8 nut at the other side of carbs just in case (can't put a tack where a nail's been)...

Mixers fitted

Inside view of the dizzy, bit of oxide / corrosion in there, I scraped most of it off. The rotor arm looks newer than the dizzy cap but had a bit of wear on the anticlockwise edge - I could have found out from firing order but just as easy to ask you lot - which way does the dizzy spin? Cleaned up the rotor arm too.

Spent most of today under this vehicle finishing off the rear end and main gas pipe feed but done a bit in the engine bay too, mostly just fitting the mixers, finding which pipes are fuel feed/return / breathers, etc.

Seems to miss on one cylinder at idle, not quite so bad as was now that I've cleaned the dizzy etc but still very prominent. A loud ticking from the engine which I now think is valve gear related (due to frequency vs rpm), perhaps the miss and tick are related?

When the engine is idling I can completely cover the carbs with hands but feel no vacuum on my hands even when I blank off breather pipes - what's going on with that (where is the engine getting it's air? How come the carbs supply fuel when there seems to be no airflow through them or at least not from main air intake?

I don't hold much hope for good results on LPG due to the hand vac test and also because I put a film of spit across the 12mm gas pipe feeds to mixers with the engine running and it didn't even pull the spit down the pipes.... so much for 'signal' on the 12mm pipes! But I haven't got as far as that yet.

Carbs have a fuel return pipe but seem to be fed from a conventional mechanical fuel pump (wide diameter feed, narrow diameter return) so looks like I'll be fitting a conventional carb fuel shut-off solenoid rather than cutting power to an electric pump.

I watched this engine run last night in the dark, no sparks from HT leads etc. Runs better with a bit of choke even when warm but that could be the choke holding throttle open a bit. Hell of a rock on the engine with the misfire, very soft engine mounts.

Must be SUs on this one, the mixers I had on shelf fit.

The mixers are only 10mm thick but that's thick enough to make the studs from the carbs too short, may be able to unscrew studs slightly or fit longer studs. The none metric studs have a course thread into the alloy carbs and finer thread for the nuts, if I need to extend them could either make all M8 (involving slightly widening holes in angled pieces and mixers, possibly re-tapping carb holes M8 or maybe using a nut at the rear of carbs) or see if the bolts supplier has set screws and matching nuts in the course thread. But I think I've gone the M8 route before, couldn't re-tap the carbs M8 and there was little space for a nut at the rear of carbs.

Measuring up for and ordering the tank is the next priority though.

Taken some pics of these plate mixers on the carbs, will post up when less busy.

Thanks all for replies and advice. Hope the meet went well.

I believe the mixers I have are for SU's used on RV8s...so hopefully they'll be correct, will find out tomorrow.
Even if correct I may not yet use them as they'll space the carb to air filter pipes away from the air filter and there might be a better way that doesn't involve extending one or both of those pipes back to the air filter.

What make were other dashpot type carbs used on V8s in Landrover models then? I remember buying those I have on shelf years ago when I presumed carbs on an RV8 were SU's but found out they were a different make when the Land/Rangerover I was converting arrived.

OldShep56 wrote:

Don't forget everyone is away.

Ah thanks, P38 meet?

I'm converting an ex ambulance Rover V8 powered LDV van to LPG, it has twin dashpot type carbs but I'm not sure if they're SU's or something else. I've had mixers on shelf to suit SU's as fitted on some Rover V8's for years... they might fit this but I'm asking in case they don't as it could save me a bit of time when I start the job if mixers on shelf don't suit and I need to order other mixers - Mixers for dashpot type carbs are not circular they bolt directly on so need to match the bolt pattern and flow area. Day off work today, just had the van dropped off and took the pics.

Quaife LSD on this van... And on the floor seen through the window to the left of the sticker Romano reducers I removed from this P38 https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14509&sid=7a71dc88de8366acee8e5d1015589dcc

The LDV has only done 26000 miles in it's 21 years but the engine smells a bit blow-by breathy and exhaust smells rich so I'm half expecting a few complications, running rich on petrol won't affect running on LPG but blowby and crankcase ventilation issues can. The engine has a bit of a tick, if it's had so little use wonder if rust ever formed in cylinders and damaged rings, no smoke though. The van is high roof, automatic, carries a cooker and camper gear, canoos etc on the massive full length roof cage and owners reckon it gets 14mpg which I'd think seems about right.

I replaced the HP Pas line on my ML with one made up by Pirtek, a fraction of the price of a new Merc bit and even cheaper than one from a scrapyard. All new except (I think) they re-used one of the ends and didn't fit a metal section in the middle.

Mind you I have to replace the pas pump now... Not a problem caused by the new line though, the pump was on it's way out when I bought the car couple of years ago.

Not on Rangerovers but on other marques I've known quite a few people fit coolant temp sensors bought from Ebay... then wonder why their radiator cooling fan runs flat out as soon as the engine warms up a bit. It's because the sensors they bought are incorrect spec, so the ECU reads much higher engine temp than is actual. Seems a particular problem on V6 Nissan Skyline's, the proper part is a few times more expensive than a part with same thread, same electrical connector and listed on Ebay as compatible with V6 Skyline's. With the wrong sensor on them the ECU can easily read 100+C when actual is 80C (with the 80C confirmed by me via LPG reducer temp readings). The consensus of many owners clubs is 'they do run hot these engines... fan running nearly all the time is normal'! I found the consensus and problem when I converted a Nissan Maxima (I think they call them a Maxima... anyway it's a model of car only in the UK by grey import) which more or less has Skyline running gear but in a big estate car... the owner who hadn't had the car long before bringing it to me for LPG conversion reckoned the fan didn't used to run before LPG conversion yet it had a shiny new coolant temp sensor. I'd seen the fan run fast before I even touched the car but agreed I'd have a look to make sure I hadn't for example fitted the reducer close to an aircon line temp sensor (which could also trigger the fan). Soon found the real problem though, told him to fit a proper compatible sensor and that fixed the problem.

gordonjcp wrote:

I'd be terribly surprised if you couldn't find a suitable thermistor and make up a connector for it.

Or just connect the wires.
Lots of different spec thermistors are used in the LPG conversion scene and are dirt cheap. I chuck loads on the floor and eventually sweep them into a bin - Lots of LPG ECUs come supplied with a thermistor that would normally be fitted to the reducer... if the reducer didn't come supplied already fitted with a built in thermistor. Could send as many 2.2k thermistors as you like or could easily get hold of other specs.

I 'like' Gilbert's #20 post on this.
But I think most people's idea is to pretend they're using all the gas for heating purposes (chicken pens, etc) and none for road use thus avoiding paying any road fuel tax or just paying a bare minimum to cover their backs.
Unlike diesel (red) LPG isn't (and can't be) marked to differentiate between heating or off road fuel and road fuel.
Some suppliers will be happy to fill any tank almost regardless of how you've modded it, like by fitting a liquid take off to connect to a vehicle filling pump.
Can buy second hand 'Smiths' pumps (similar to those forecourts use) occasionally on EBay for £500. A UK spec bayonet type fill gun is a bit expensive but you can buy Italian dish type spec fillers new and reasonably cheaply from suppliers such as LPGshop and use an adaptor.
There isn't much duty on LPG when bought from a forecourt, legally you should pay the same duty if you fill at home. If you pay the duty it's likely to be no cheaper than filling at a reasonably priced forecourt... But it's possible to illegally avoid paying that duty, and then if you get a good deal on heating LPG it can work out way cheaper than filling on just about any forecourt.
Few years since I looked into it though. Even back then some suppliers wouldn't fill any tank except one you rented from them and would make sure you hadn't modded their tank - expensive. You'd need a supplier who would fill any tank (one you bought outright and cheap) and didn't ask any questions so would fill a tank that you'd modded by fitting a liquid take-off.
Quite fancy doing the same myself! Maybe I'll look into it again.

It'd be the first I'd heard of such problem too. I only ask because on forum there are people talking about rebuilding ABS valve blocks that have gone wrong, so I wondered since they go wrong if they ever go wrong in a way that causes that kind of thing. I suppose the valve blocks are made in such a way to be failsafe even if valves go wrong in the same way as solenoid packs for auto gearboxes.

Interesting.

Do TC systems that apply brakes ever go wrong in a way that sees them apply brakes when you wouldn't want them to? Wouldn't want to be driving along, some electronics or valve go wrong and cause brakes to come on hard at one corner.

I learned something else about P38s there. I know the model after my old BMW750 did the same, my model year just backed off the electronic throttle. Substitute for a LSD on the beemer but I reckon the braking system will be better than an LSD on a 4x4?

4 Wheel traction control... Do they brake a spinning wheel (that's lost traction) then?

Morat wrote:

Make him feel better, go on :)

Should have taken a few pics and posted them up Gilbert lol.

I once bought a Volvo V70 from Ebay, one company owner and LPG converted but the LPG system was broke, had a dent in the passenger side front wing and wheels were scabby. Fixed the LPG in about 5 minutes of getting it home but ran it with the dent and wheels as it was. Kept it a couple of years before selling it for more than I bought if for to a local old gent. Few weeks later saw him driving it around with it looking immaculate, dent and wheels sorted, only cost him £200 to sort, wished I'd never sold it.

I've converted a few that owners bought from scrapyards and fixed up, some apparently didn't need much work to pass an MOT and those owners much preferred classics over other models. Each to their own, these days getting out of a P38 into a classic seems to me a lot like getting out of a plush executive car into a series Landrover... but back when dad was a bit obsessed with series Landrovers there were many times when I'd have been very pleased if he'd bought a posh comfortable classic with a 'massive and thirsty' V8 that was probably just as economical as his 2&1/4 or 2&1/2 Landrovers and a lot more comfortable. My uncle bought a new E reg Rangerover diesel which ate it's manual gearbox with less than 1000 miles on the clock towing a mid sized caravan.

Didn't realise you used 19kg Calor bottles Bri.. You could fill them without raising forecourt staff eyebrows by attaching another fill point to the car and running pipe to the 19kg bottle in the car, suppliers sell fill fittings for the portable bottles. Potentially unsafe but not for you/us because we know to always run the bottle completely empty and then only put 38 litres in. Probably save around £17 on each refill plus have the convenience of filling the car and bottle on the same visit ;-)

But the real reason for me coming back to this thread was to ask Strangerover how much it will cost an 18 year old to insure a V8 P38? No wish to put a dampener on things but interested to know. I used to run V6 stuff when I was around that age a lot of years ago when insurance was a lot cheaper but even then it cost me an arm and a leg to get insured.