Dan-- welcome-- the folks here are hands-on and have "been there done that" when it comes most of the inevitable P38 issues which will occur. Ask any question and someone will provide a thoughtful answer.
Ran the hose from the top the block to the reservoir close to the same path as the original plastic line ran. No leaks- quick bleed. Now we will see if that was the source of my very slow coolant reduction in the reservoir.
Every 100 miles the level goes just below the fill line. I am not going to add and see if it keeps going down. Cannot find any orange traces at any of the remaining connections or by the water pump. Had read that some P38 run normally below the fill line-- but this makes no sense at all unless you are losing coolant somewhere.
If no traces then I am going to assume that I have a light gasket leak somewhere I cannot see the drips-- like under the center gasket which would be nasty if that can actually happen.
Step by step---- by step by step by step by step-----
Thanks Gilbert--
I am going to do a single run from the top of the block to the reservoir going behind the alternator and down.
The wall thickness is about max to sneak by the oil filler and even use the original plastic clips. Well until the one around the oil filler tube snapped just by moving it.
I think the hose will not be pinched between the air conditioning compressor based upon a quick test fit I did. The main thing is to get a natural curve off of the block so this flexible hose does not kink.
May need to use some corrugated cable wrap to help maintain the curve off of the block and in areas where the hose is touching hard parts.
The top hose in the photo is my OEM hose--you can see that the bottom one does not have the elevation change or any bends which match the OEM hose.
So last time I posted I installed a U union and then bought some silicone heater hose from Amazon. From the specs I thought it was pretty good hose - but then on the dark side, someone posted to buy only the superduty silicone hose due to some unspecified catastrophe he experience with "cheap' silicone hose. Mine has a 0.11 wall thickness and the superduty has a wall thickness of 0.16. Well, I tossed that around but I like that it is not too big of a diameter and I can basically route it as it was originally.
While I was mulling this over I found a good price for an "original" plastic hose- same part number in a Land Rover bag.
When I pulled it out and laid to next to my OEM hose--- which is still very flexible and did not break when I had to pull it out of its tortuous path- I find that the bends of the new "original" are nowhere close to the OEM. I tried many different paths so it would lay unstressed behind the alternator, but no joy.
Is this a superseded number and do the later 2001,2002's have the plastic reservoir return hose go a different route then my 2000? I could not find one.
I am tempted to say it was a nice experiment and I have no idea how these replacement plastic hoses fit and just install my .11 wall thickness silicone hose.
Any thoughts on installing a hose with a 0.11 wall thickness versus spending more money to buy the 0.16 wall thickness hose?
Thanks Gilbert-
You were correct-- just pulled off the lines and inserted my U union.
Here is a photo of my Temporary/semi-permanent/permanent fix. Still have 10' of silicone hose coming.
One more thing-- how much coolant do I need to drop out of the bottom of the radiator in order to install a U union into the existing hoses? Got her pretty nicely bleed these days and would hate to start from scratch.
Ok-- now the plate is leaking so there are puddles on the valve cover.
I just order 10 feet (cheaper buying a 10' roll then 5' per foot price) of reinforced silicone hose. This gives me the option of running OEM style to a U union in case I find I need a heater in the winter---or using Morat and Chris's tip of just plumbing directly from the top of the block to the reservoir.
I found this U union in my stash-- used in fuel injection systems.
I know on other ABS units which have gone bad on me it was the control electronics board that went bad not the valves themselves. The brakes would still function as normal brakes because the valves stay open and do not pulse. I would assume if it works this way on the P38 that you would only have normal open differential function at both axles but not the "Limited Slip" function.
I really like the idea of running directly from the top of the block to the reservoir if I am not going to keep the heater functional. I never had a heater on my Astro van so I do not know if it is required-- we get down to the teens and twenties F up here in the mountains.
If I go the route of keeping my heater functional and super sealing with something like Ultra Grey or Four Bond (is this what you guys use???) I will need to run the silicone hoses to the heater block. From the description of the 8mm ID silicone hose I can buy- the outer dimension is 14mm. On my 2000 the plastic line looks no larger than 10 mm-- can you stuff the 14mm under and around the alternator. Reading the dark side threads it seems most members skip following the OEM route and run about 5' of hose around the back side of the motor to the heater block.
I will have to look at that-- does not seem like you can make that very tidy.
What style hose clamps work best for this- the "squeeze tight" style which uses a screw into a threaded hole or the traditional scroll band style. I would use a crimp style band as I use on fuel lines but I do not think I can get my clamping tool down parallel to the block or past the throttle cable pulley.
On another topic--- I tried to add an Avatar and when I click on the Avatar block it will only accept Text- when I click "manage" it opens a Google autofill page for Text only. How do I insert a photo?
Gilbert--- in short-- you kept the heater system functional by assuring the plate does not leak and running new silicon hoses in place of the original.
I assume that replacing the hoses using OEM style is not the road to go down due to repro quality issues of replacement hoses now available through the ususally suspects or Ebay. (On Ebay US a few suppliers are selling what they call OEM replacement hoses for about $90- one set made by Allparts)
I went the link and the hose is described as "A single ply polyester reinforced hose with a working temperature of +200°C"-- I assume strands of polyester embedded in the silicone hose.
I assume that the OD of the silicone reservoir hose will be much larger than the plastic OEM line-- can you still snake the silicone hose down the same original pathway?
I am almost tempted to fabricate a replacement copper or stainless line to follow the same route-- just my anal nature.
GREAT tip---that you pointed out that I could have trouble burping my cooling system if I plug up the system by just using short plugs on the block and at the reservoir.
And the drip drip drip of new bits to fix progresses forward.
I have the classic coolant drip from the motor side hose (input) to the throttle body heater plate.
I can repair--I can bypass with a U union---or I can remove the whole system by plugging the hose at the top of the block and at the bottom of the coolant reservoir.
As far as repairing--- I went simple and tried a new hose clamp and it still pushes coolant up the nipple then drips along the outside of the hose--so I assume that the hose is now deformed/crushed enough from the original clamp that a new hose clamp is chasing the wind.
Is it safe to assume that it is only the hose since I see no drips coming from the seal at the plate-- or does the nipple eventually crack and a new hose will not do the trick. Is this one of those cases when you just go forward and replace both hoses and the plate?
We can only get the plate and the hose out of the top of the block- and they are cheap. LR no longer offers the line back to the reservoir and I have read that the plastic line gets fragile and will crack. If you do the repair should you remove it and replace with long rubber line to avoid a possible catastrophe?
How many have opted to just run a U union and take the chances with the plastic line?
How many have just plugged the system at the top of the block and at the reservoir?
I am open to all options.
Welcome Pete- As a new P38 owner myself I can tell you-- the members on this forum are willing to help with any problem/issue/question you ask about-- and are gracious when they do.
I also finally bought a P38-- only because I found a shabby Holland and Holland and could not restrain myself. It has been a few months of replacing and fixing bits but it will soon be on the road full time- thanks to the help I have received from forum members.
If you need/wish to refinish your wood yourself I can give you a few tips on how I refinished mine. My wood was very bad which was the only reason I chose to do it. If yours has the slight yellowed top coat cracking you may not feel the need. Mine now looks great and aside from your time it only cost me about $40 total- rather than the $3000 I was quoted from a classic car wood trim refinisher in the US. They even hinted that they may not even wish to attempt it after examining the pieces.
Brian- I never suspected that there was an issue with my MAV- only my O2 sensors based on my fault codes.
I figured it would be a good idea to clean my MAF-- based on my experience with my Astro's MAF which needed cleaning at about 100K miles.
Dave-- yup bank 2 fault code--- about 6 cycles worth.
Gilbert--Will follow your advice--- I backed away from the cleaning the MAF and will wait until I get a code.
Got lucky today--- three of the O2 sensors came out with a nice pull of my breaker bar using one of those claw foot style sockets. Much nice then the tall ones I used to use and break. This one has a 1/2 square on the end to slip in your breaker bar parallel to the socket- and a 3/8" square on the top side 90 degrees to the socket. Pretty neat setup.
Anyway, it was the last O2 sensor on the left before the cat which decided to leave its threads in the bunghole threads- and I had worked it back and forth 1/4 turn at a time with plenty of penetrating oil. I normally use my acetylene torch when I get a hard one- but this one kept moving so I just kept going at it cold.
My sparkplug thread chaser was useless at cleaning the treads---but one of those "way too expensive" buys I made 30 years ago came to my rescue as it often does.
About 30 years back I walked into a store which sold metric hardware which at the time was very hard to find. Had to travel an hour to another city. At the time I had a small set of metric tap and dies with most of the common sizes I needed for restoring 356 Porsches (which were also worth nothing back then). On a shelf behind the counter, they had a Huge complete set of metric taps and dies up to 18 mm with double taps for each size and pitch. It was a serious amount of money but I bit the bullet. One of the best investments I ever made. It keeps saving my butt.
Pulled out the 18 x 1.5 and cut the sensor threads out of the bung threads and was good to go.
A good torch and a complete tap and die kit are a must for any gearhead
Thanks Dave- so best to leave it alone if it is working?
I am about to install a new set of O2 sensors due to a new fault code popping up during the last ride. At 105K I figure need to replace all.
I figure it is also a good time to remove the MAF and spray clean it with CRC MAF cleaner.
Two questions--
Do you remove the multi-connector by pressing down the arms on either side and pull-- or do you spread them and pull. Plastic at this age breaks too easy without first asking those who know. Tried pressing down like most connectors and no joy.
Once off is there any more disassembly required before spray down. On my Astro van, I can remove a metal mesh pre-screen to get a clear shot at the sensor. This Bosch look like it is all plastic so does not require more disassembly. Of course, I do not have it in my hand yet to confirm this.
Thank David--- good find!
Thanks Gilbert-- I have one of those. I was hoping the poly ones would last longer. I have to order online since my small town only has a Franchise parts place with a small selection of bits and tools.
While replacing my tranny filter I checked out all my tie rod ends. All tight but rubber perished. Anyone replaced the boots-- if so do you have the part numbers of the boots you used. Many places offer either poly or rubber if you know the dimensions. Could pop them off and measure- just thought I would ask first-----and find out if they worked.