Happy New Year to all on the forum

This marks my first full year of ownership of my "Royal Crate"

Still loving the cr#p out of her.

Everything I have repaired so far has stayed repaired.

Hoping next year I will continue to be so lucky.

When I first bought my truck last year the SRS light came on- without a fault statement on the dash. Spray cleaned the yellow connector under the left seat and no more red SRS light.

This Sunday the SRS light came on and the "airbag failure" note came up. Stoped the truck and restarted- no SRS light or fault statement. Down the road, both came back on.

Got home and hooked up the Nano and could not clear the fault "left airbag failure (permanent)". Sprayed again with DeoxIt and could clear faults which stayed clear so far.

What is strange is the Nano keeps the "left airbag failure (permanent)" text even when saying that all faults are cleared.

What is the Nano trying to tell me when the text remains in the fault window and says that this fault is "permanent"?

Does the Nano retain "airbag failure" faults in memory so even when cleared this failure is considered Permanent?

OK- I have searched, googled, looked through my owner's manual, checked RAVE- and somehow I have missed how to aim our headlamps. I can pivot them with the 8 mm hex but I cannot seem to find the simple up and down adjuster.

Why is this not in the owner's manual? If it is --- then I have been having a very long senior moment. Heck- I can no longer find the last tool I was using a minute ago.

And the drip drip drip of new bits to fix progresses forward.

I have the classic coolant drip from the motor side hose (input) to the throttle body heater plate.

I can repair--I can bypass with a U union---or I can remove the whole system by plugging the hose at the top of the block and at the bottom of the coolant reservoir.

As far as repairing--- I went simple and tried a new hose clamp and it still pushes coolant up the nipple then drips along the outside of the hose--so I assume that the hose is now deformed/crushed enough from the original clamp that a new hose clamp is chasing the wind.

Is it safe to assume that it is only the hose since I see no drips coming from the seal at the plate-- or does the nipple eventually crack and a new hose will not do the trick. Is this one of those cases when you just go forward and replace both hoses and the plate?

We can only get the plate and the hose out of the top of the block- and they are cheap. LR no longer offers the line back to the reservoir and I have read that the plastic line gets fragile and will crack. If you do the repair should you remove it and replace with long rubber line to avoid a possible catastrophe?

How many have opted to just run a U union and take the chances with the plastic line?

How many have just plugged the system at the top of the block and at the reservoir?

I am open to all options.

I am about to install a new set of O2 sensors due to a new fault code popping up during the last ride. At 105K I figure need to replace all.

I figure it is also a good time to remove the MAF and spray clean it with CRC MAF cleaner.

Two questions--

Do you remove the multi-connector by pressing down the arms on either side and pull-- or do you spread them and pull. Plastic at this age breaks too easy without first asking those who know. Tried pressing down like most connectors and no joy.

Once off is there any more disassembly required before spray down. On my Astro van, I can remove a metal mesh pre-screen to get a clear shot at the sensor. This Bosch look like it is all plastic so does not require more disassembly. Of course, I do not have it in my hand yet to confirm this.

While replacing my tranny filter I checked out all my tie rod ends. All tight but rubber perished. Anyone replaced the boots-- if so do you have the part numbers of the boots you used. Many places offer either poly or rubber if you know the dimensions. Could pop them off and measure- just thought I would ask first-----and find out if they worked.

I am changing out the transmission filter in my 2000 H&H/HSE. How many quarts of fluid should I buy? The Rave I have does not give a filter change-out volume in the repair section.

Also- I know after static fill you need to go through the gears and the put it back in Park and keep it running to pull more in the tranny as you do a final fill- and that you have to do it fast since it is a cold level at the fill port.

Does anyone keep it in neutral while the motor is running and you are under the truck filling? I heard the pump is still turning in neutral and not in Park.

I called my not so local LR dealer to confirm that us P38 owners in the US cannot buy a new key FOB. His info was the manufacturer who made the FOBs stopped making them. He could make me a standard key for about $30-provided I showed proof of ownership.

I then asked him if I provided the ownership papers he required to cut me a standard key could he use them to tell me what my EKA and FOB codes are. He told me that as far as he knows- and he has asked LR US this question due to other P38 customers asking the same- that the US P38's were never issued EKA codes. If a customer's car got into a superlock down (he called it something else which I cannot recall) that they would have to use the dealer's Testbook to open up the car and shut off the immobilizer. As of today his dealership no longer has a testbook so a P38 owner in this situation is up a creek.

So how bogus is this info from the head of parts who says he has been with LR since the Classic was on the showroom floor?

If you end up having only a stock key for a 2000 P38 after your FOB dies should you never lock your doors with it? Is straight key only safe to start and drive the P38?

I find all this hard to believe since most every thread on lockout always mentions using the EKA code first- and if not working check the micro switches.

Last-- if my only FOB dies and if I cannot get my EKA from a dealer-- how do I use my NANO to get my P38 up and running provided I have NOT locked the BECM?

OK guys-- no one warned me about swollen lug nights on the Hurrican wheels-- let alone that you need to pound on a socket to get them off-- and ----the wheels will be rusted to the hubs.

Went for my first ride today hoping I will not have much of a coolant drop (I did and just hoping it is a final burp rather than going somewhere where it should not) and I hit 51 mph and what I think is the right front tire starts to imitate a paint shaker. It eases off at about 65 mph so I am hoping it is an out of balance tire. I figure a flat spot will show up at every speed.

So go to take the wheel off and find the magic swollen lug nuts. Great design for a truck designed to go off road and through streams. I had to pound on an SAE socket which was a hair larger than my 27 mm socket. My air hammer almost could not release them-- kept tightening and loosening and finally all came off. I went ahead and removed all of them on the four wheels. I had to cut off the stainless cover on two of them.

Then came BiG LEAD HAMMER TIME. I tried the push-pull method to maneuver the rims off and it laughed at me. Got on my back and hit with my feet-- zero movement. Pulled out the 20-pound lead hammer and after 10 minutes pounding the tire sidewalls from side to side and top to bottom, I got them all off.

Check the right front on my balance machine and it was only off a small amount. Looked like there was a small flat spot but normally with large cross section tires you do not feel them. So could this be another P38 front end gremlin I need to learn about?

If not the tire or rim- can I assume that when something is worn in the front end you will get a shake at a specific speed with these trucks? Everything seems pretty tight-no movement I can feel. Probably will need a small crowbar to work the ball joints to detect movement- but with my arms doing the lifting and pushing I feel nothing.

I wonder what the next fight I am going to have with this truck as we become acquainted.

OK- O rings replaced and not leaking, received my Nano, the wood trim is coming along-applying the matte finish, and now I am trying to decide if I should just go ahead and replace the head gaskets.

I am on the fence- I feel that I am losing too much coolant at idle after burping the system three times for it not going to the cylinders. I am dripping lots of water under each exhaust pipe exit-- I mean a big puddle on each side. I know when I first drove it when the temp was below freezing there was a constant cloud of water vapor-- but when driving it - in about 1 mile went away- then came back when I was at idle to drive it into the garage. Many say that their 4.6 blows condensation -but does it leave puddles on your driveway on each side? To me- new to LR's--this points to head gaskets since I cannot find another leak.

I refilled the coolant after the O ring replacement and can only burp it in the garage by running it up to 2500 rpm and holding since I do not have it tagged- and there is heavy salt on the roads up here in the mountains. During this, the temperature needle stays just left of 12:00. But after three cycles of this, I have to keep adding coolant to the expansion tank. I was hoping that the system was hard to completely bleed out without driving it. But after three cycles and still having to add about 3/8" of coolant each time to get it up to the cold mark-- I am starting to think my head gaskets are leaking.

Normally I would do a leak down and watch air go into the coolant tank-- but bumping this motor to TDC at each piston to do the leak down is a pain-- let alone screw in without cross thread into the spark plug holes. I had to go into my ZEN mode to "feel the threads" on a number of them.

Aside from adding coolant-- my big symptom is that at idle in the garage, I am dripping lots of water under each exhaust pipe. I have puddles after 20 minutes at idle.

I changed out the plugs which looked like they were in many many miles with the gaps about 50 thousands. As you know- a real pain to pull out- the threads were slightly rusty with no grease or anti-seize applied. I have seen slightly rusty threads before so I am not thinking steam.

They all looked pretty normal-- a bit of black carbon- light brown electrodes, but at the bottom side of each ground lug facing the piston, they were light white. I have not seen this before. I expected if there was a water leak then at least some of them would be steam cleaned of any black carbon. Not sure the white is a sign of most cylinder leaking.

Sooo - what is the normal series of tests to confirm--- besides a leak down? I have a radiator pressure tester- but no way is it set up for the cap used on the RR expansion tank. I could buy one off of Ebay and insert a Schrader valve-- but is this worth going down that road?

If I do just dive in and replace the head gaskets just to baseline the motor- are there any special tools which make the job easier? I have a 32 mm fan clutch removal tool- soon to get a 36mm tool for this job. I know the heat shields will be the first big pain-- any tools that make it easier?

I also know that the secondary air tubes will be a huge pain. I attempted to remove them to get a clear shot at the spark plugs but the nuts would not budge. The angle of attack is miserable for the back ones. Do most of you remove the heads with the tubes installed?

I assume APR studs- have not heard a downside except for cost. With China making so many aftermarket bits-- who do you trust to have a good head gasket kit?

Anyone have had the same symptoms --go to replace the head gaskets ---and find they were not the issue?

Thanks-- been through many of the treads-- seems like each head gasket replacement is a challenge unique to each owner and P38.

OK- I have sanded all of the bits and applied the first coats of varnish. I would say that the factory used a linseed oil but mine was so sun checked and cracked I need a finish that would harden up and hold much of the veneer lifted bits together. First coats are gloss which shows off the wood. Now I need to tone it all down to look hand oiled gunstock style like it came using a matt finish. I am not a wood person so some future collector will be cursing me.

Forgive the links-- somehow I cannot copy the correct bit on Imgur to get a photo to show up.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/k7exszJ.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/1SCYKew.jpg[/img]

I pulled the center console and found more broken plastic bits. The biggest look like a grey plastic tube which was broken in half top to bottom. Looks like it fit around a rod. The only rod I think it would fit is the parking brake handle. Since mine is on so tight I cannot twist or pull it off I cannot check. I cannot post a photo here so I cannot show you what I am talking about.

I never went over the low side but heard of some piece of plastic breaks and makes it impossible to go to different positions. I drove her in normal Drive so I do not have that issue. Anyone know what it may be?

It is about 1" long, ID about 1/2" ID. It has two flanges one top and one bottom- but only on Left and Right side like wings-about 11/2" wide from left to right. Both the front and back side are both flat.

This is probably a common broke bit-- just would like to know what it does and what I need to buy.

This HnH was treated pretty badly judging from all of the dirt down and around the shift area.

This is my first Land Rover. Through over 45 years of restoring/wrenching/restoring old German and Italian car I have finally got my steam up to own a P38- my favorite Range Rover. I had been able to resist the P38 call all these years because I had enough pain with the cars I was passionate about- but many friends experiences and a good number of Land Rover reviews--- warned me off. But then I saw my first Holland and Holland. Yes- a P38 with just a lot more makeup- but it tipped me toward owning. But years of resistance helped me pass on the two H&H's which came up for sale this year. After passing on the last one I could not stop kicking myself- so I googled H&H and another one like magic popped up. And like with many of my past machines- I paid the same for an H&H which needs all kind of attention--- as I could have paid for a really nice one. I bought it from a gentleman who had it for less than a month and owns a number of Land Rovers. I know-big clue. But the story was he had one car too many and wife says she wants a new car before he owns another project. Good story. My assumption is that he bought it from photos, got it, discovered that it was much worse conditioned then led to believe--and passed it on to me with vague assurances that it was in great shape. I am often the "last Tag" guy. But-while I get a bit pissed each time this happens- I figure it is a project and I like projects.

I just cannot let this orphan H&H be parted out or screwed up anymore then it already is- so I am taking it on and hoping for the best.

I have gotten into it- the O ring leak was obvious--passenger side so wet that the wire tray alongside the side of the passenger's seat (LHD) was filled with coolant. So I did the O ring job the last two days-- and even though someone had gotten into this before judging from all of the access holes cut all over the place - it was still hard without cutting/removing the ducting. Had to try every combination of swivels and 1/4" drives I had in my toolbox to install the screw into the hole. Removing was easy-just could not line up the screw to the hole. I will remember not to remove it next time.

When I got it off the flatbed and started it up I noticed a lot of condensation. I was a cold 35F so condensation is not abnormal at startup- especially from cars which have not been started for a few weeks. Took it for a 10-mile jaunt before I put it in the garage-- and the condensation cleared off in a mile according to my friend who followed me. But it returned while idling. Headgaskets? Hoses are not rock hard when running, the plugs do not look steam cleaned, temp stayed at 12-- so I am thinking 50/50 if I need head gaskets.

And--- I have pulled out all of the wood trim to refinish. This special wood (thinking Claro Walnut Burl from the looks) is so sun cracked it is just short of having to be pulled off and new veneer applied. Called an expert who would finish -but just like any other P38 since they are not sure what the wood used. Maybe never seen an H&H before. Anyway--they are talking $3500 if re-veneer. Not gonna happen. So I am sanding away and taking a crack at it.

OK - spoke enough-- but you get the idea-- orphan restoration. We will see if gets the best of me.