Gil-- is there a video or photo sequence which shows this resolder process.
I took the back off and positioned the battery so the edge (+) touched the single leaf spring and the bottom of the battery (-) pressed down on the three leaf springs. Pressed each button and no joy.
So are you saying that the three grounding leaf springs are probably not making good ground to the board and I need to remove- flip it over and reflow solder on the backside to the through pins of the grounding ring?
If you cannot use the NANO to read the EKA from the BECM memory because it is locked out ---I wonder why it is set up for you to print in the EKA. It must be if you buy an unlocked BECM and can load your original.
Guess I will have to try my luck with my local dealer. Although they no longer providing programmed key fobs for our P38's- I hope they still provide the EKA. For now, I have disabled the EKA with my NANO. But to turn off the immobilizer with the NANO I need the EKA
I have nothing to add since my FOB will not even light up-- But since Aragorn, you mentioned using your NANO- I am interested in what my NANO is telling me.
You said that your NANO is saying the radio code has not been received by the BECM-- but you can still start your P38. At times mine will say that- but today my NANO is saying that it did receive the radio code under the RF menu and all outstations reported in on the Outstation menu.
If that is the case-- is the RF function of my key working-- or is the BECM getting the radio code from the radio transmitting it some way via RF?
If my FOB is working and the BECM is receiving it-- why does my red light not flash when I push the button or try to sync?
Also-- I went into the BECM ALARM section and went to the last screen. I was under the impression that the NANO can read the immobilizer code, the EKA, and the FOB code. I do not have my EKA code so I was hoping the NANO would tell me what is stored in the BECM.
It gives me a three digit Immobilizer code-- but only blanks for both the EKA and the FOB and just the option to type in the correct numbers.
Is this correct-- the NANO does not give you the stored EKA value? I enabled EKA and disabled EKA and made no difference
Yup-- tried two or three new batteries. I fooled around with both positive leaf spring contacts and the negative leaf spring cleaning them up with contact cleaner. No red light. I assume the red light should go on even if you are playing with it nowhere near the truck.
Pressing it while trying to sync- no red light on the shift or the dash either.
As a new member of the P38 clan, I find these threads both interesting and scary.
I received only one Key/fob with my 2000 P38. It only works like a normal key. It starts the truck and will lock and unlock by turning in the door lock.
Even with a new battery the red light never comes on when you press lock or unlock. Does not lock or unlock remotely- even when I walk right up to the antenna/receiver. Does not sync up following the method outlined in the owners manual or what I have read in many threads.
So could be a problem with the internal contacts as I have seen in a few Youtube videos.
I assume that while I have no starting issues at the moment- I need to plan for the future.
I know of someone parting out a P38 and has asked what parts I would like to buy. I do not know the year- but if it is a Thor like mine- should I buy the door lock and all of the internal bits with the hope the parts may be in good condition. At least I may be able to refurbish and have one the shelf.
Any Youtube's showing refurbishment?
I am very happy to hear that there may be a solution coming to program new keys now that -at least in the US- LR is not offering new key FOBs to current P38 owners. How would that work if I only have my single key - I assume if new keys can eventually be programmed - the programmer would need my key to read/scan.
While there are a few videos floating around of showing how to move the guts of your FOB into a new cover--- and a few showing how to repair broken internal contacts-- should I take the chance of pulling my only fob apart and try to diagnose the lack of red light going on?
Lucky for me I never have used the remotes on any of my cars/trucks to lock or unlock so I am not in the habit or even think about it. I rarely ever lock my cars manually either.
Until I read many "cannot start" threads, I was under the impression that if I never used my FOB to remotely lock/unlock- or manually lock/unlock then the condition of my FOB is not or could not be a problem. I figured that my ignition switch is the active part and the key was passive when it comes to starting the truck if I never locked or unlocked the doors.
Now I am not very clear on this. So new to the P38--- I do not know what I do not know.
Gil------Must have had a senior moment-- I only saw 38 psi which made more sense to me then 28 psi in this heavy of a truck. I stand corrected-- could be part of the issue.
I did drive with the rear tire moved to the front--- still slight shake on the passenger seat when cold but seemed to dampen out when tires warmed up. Still had 38 psi since I put that in all of them. So perhaps a flat spot and 38 psi gave me the big shakes.
Now I will drop the pressure to 28 psi and see if the shake will go away completely.
Thanks Gil-- not sure how I missed the 28 psi for the front-- my lizard brain must have blocked it out.
Thanks all--- yeah those lug nuts are strange. My P38 came from the Wet side of Washington state-- no snow/salt- but lots of dampness. I bet a one that spent time in the salty states must be a total mess of rust.
My first drive when I just got the P38 this wobble did not show up-- I either did not get to 50 mph or it was not there. That is why it surprised me when it consistently happened this ride--- up at 51-60 mph a shake-- over 60 highly damped but still there-- below 50 mph nothing.
Since the speed limits up here is 55 mph and we seem to have state/county/sheriff cops all competing to write tickets-- powering through and driving over 65 mph it is not really an option-- I can only go slower to avoid if this wobble cannot be reduced. The sweet spot if you need to get anywhere is 55-60 mph-- right in the wobble zone for my P38.
The interesting thing is that the only change I made between my first ride and this second ride was to fill that tire to the specified 38 psi-- it was at 28 psi on my first ride with no wobble.
I pulled off the right front wheel which felt like the problem child (could be wrong) and checked it on my balancer. I set it to static balance and had to add only .5 oz on each side.
During the spin, it looked like there was a small flat spot so even though I rebalanced it I decided to put my right side back tire on the front and will see if the wobble happens. If it happens then I know it was not due to a flat spot and I will drop that pressure to 32 and see what happens. If dropping the psi does reduce the wobble I will then balance that tire and check it again.
In the meantime, I have ordered a stock steering damper.
Track rods seem to be the next logical replacement. Can you remove and replace the track rods with the tires on the ground (to prevent movement) to at least get an in-the-park sizing of the new rods rather than back and front tire measurements for toe-in?
I am thinking about staying with some type of Michleins---Latitude tour Hp or other all season. Only have to go up steep gravel roads so no need for AT tires.
RL-- My wheels use interesting lug nuts. They are steel and have an outer shell/cover made from stainless steel. When the steel lug nuts rust when water gets between the lug nut and the SS shell they produce scale and swell up larger. This swelling expands the SS shell across the flats so a 27 mm socket will not slip on as it should. Just too big but too small for the next larger socket-- so I had to pound on the socket to get it on-or cut off the shell with a Dremel.
The lug nuts themselves are interesting in that their mushroom head is huge- at least twice the diameter of a normal lug nut. The mushroom end of the lugnut is made from some aluminum alloy since it turns white when it corrodes. The hole diameter around the studs in the Hurricane rims are at least 1.5"-2"-- I did not measure.
My shake/bounce could be in the same family as this Death Wobble. Mine is consistent- ride down a smooth rode and as you approach 50 mph things begin to shake-- and yes- the first time the passenger seat did a small dance. As the tires warmed - less bounce and the seat did not react.
I do not have to hit a bump or an imperfection in the road for it to happen--- just roll up to 50 mph and it disappears when you roll down to 45 mph.
I need new tires anyway. Got Mitchlin on it now-- not sure what type--heavy as sh**t.
Any favorites to suggest?
OK guys-- no one warned me about swollen lug nights on the Hurrican wheels-- let alone that you need to pound on a socket to get them off-- and ----the wheels will be rusted to the hubs.
Went for my first ride today hoping I will not have much of a coolant drop (I did and just hoping it is a final burp rather than going somewhere where it should not) and I hit 51 mph and what I think is the right front tire starts to imitate a paint shaker. It eases off at about 65 mph so I am hoping it is an out of balance tire. I figure a flat spot will show up at every speed.
So go to take the wheel off and find the magic swollen lug nuts. Great design for a truck designed to go off road and through streams. I had to pound on an SAE socket which was a hair larger than my 27 mm socket. My air hammer almost could not release them-- kept tightening and loosening and finally all came off. I went ahead and removed all of them on the four wheels. I had to cut off the stainless cover on two of them.
Then came BiG LEAD HAMMER TIME. I tried the push-pull method to maneuver the rims off and it laughed at me. Got on my back and hit with my feet-- zero movement. Pulled out the 20-pound lead hammer and after 10 minutes pounding the tire sidewalls from side to side and top to bottom, I got them all off.
Check the right front on my balance machine and it was only off a small amount. Looked like there was a small flat spot but normally with large cross section tires you do not feel them. So could this be another P38 front end gremlin I need to learn about?
If not the tire or rim- can I assume that when something is worn in the front end you will get a shake at a specific speed with these trucks? Everything seems pretty tight-no movement I can feel. Probably will need a small crowbar to work the ball joints to detect movement- but with my arms doing the lifting and pushing I feel nothing.
I wonder what the next fight I am going to have with this truck as we become acquainted.
Yes-- that is the plan. Have to figure out how the EAS was bypassed. Going through past EAS bypass threads I found about five different ways to put EAS into manual mode.
My message panel always shows that the EAS is in manual mode so someone did something correctly- unlike a few bits on this P38.
So I started to check out how a PO may have done it. Looked at the BECM wires first. No clipped wires coming out of the green connector or no blue and white wires splice together with a fuse. I found one red wire with a spliced-in fuse on BEMC-- that is it.
I did not see any grounded wires coming off any connectors under the left-hand seat. All connectors to the pump are hooked up. No fuses or relays pulled out of the fuse box. And finally-- no aftermarket boxes or harnesses.
I will take another look under the left front seat and look for any pulled and grounded wires since that seems the easiest way to put the EAS into manual mode.
From then on it is going through and rebuilding all the EAS bits that wear out or fail.
Thanks all--- I have springs so the compressor is sidelined. I bought a Wabco and will change it out just because I like to baseline any new machine I am getting into. Reading old threads is a great way to come up to speed fast about any new machine. Amazing how the last 25 years of the internet has changed so many of my hobbies/passions.
Thanks-- sounds a bit like my old Audi S6 Avant I had for many many years. It had a high pressure braking system and the static pump test was the key.
At over 100K mile it is probably a good time to replace. Are there replacement brands to stay away from?
Is it a wear item which after 100K miles I should just replace to save the pump?
Sloth---
Thanks-- I needed that! Scared the bejeebus out of me--- the pump was so loud -sounded like one of those vibrating airless paint sprayers- or oilless nail gun air pumps.
Hope I never see the three amigos-- yeah- right
Well this topic came back up at a good time for me to ask a few questions.
Being new to the P38 I am in the dark about the signs that an accumulator is going away. I have only driven my new to me 2000 10 miles before it went into the garage to replace the heater O rings and refinish the wood-- along with a few other bits which required attention.
I was not thrilled with the brakes in that 10 mile ride-- seemed like it had no feel- a bit wooden and did not stop all that great. Pads and disks look OK.
Did not think about it until yesterday. I had to run a number of heat cycles statically in the garage to burp the new coolant and during all those times everything sounded pretty normal in the engine bay. Yesterday I turned the key to turn on the radio to check out the base speakers which I just reconed, and there was a loud buzzing coming from the accumulator. I mean LOUD. I started up the and the buzzing stopped. I turned her off and turned the key again to the run position (dash lights up)- and no buzzing.
This is the first time I heard this. There are no warning lights going on during the buzzing-- or when I press the brake pedal.
My question-- Is the buzzing normal if you just have been stopping and starting- just running the motor at idle-or is this a sign that the pump is going out? If normal-- does the fluid leak down if not using the brakes with many stops and start ups so at some point the pump has to run hard and loud to get the pressure back up. The brake pedal never got soft- at least I never noticed it since I always put my foot on the brake when I start an automatic.
And-- what is the three amigos? Yeah-- I know- newbee
Thanks Gil----So no unhooking anything else on the latch mechanism in order to get access to slip the block in. I have plenty of magnets on stalks--they all see heavy use.
Gil/Marty-
Thank you both-- now can I replace it by removing the rear bolt and slip it between the panels. The RAVE does not mention this spacer block so I am assuming you are talking between the rear door frame and the outer skin-yes?
All windows seem to go up and down nicely. If it holds the glass in somehow- then someone could have replaced the glass and forgot to bolt the block in. The block looks like it meant for something important or they would not have plated it.
I found a shard of glass on the passenger side-- I know there was front-end damage at one point because bolts were left out for the front headlights, the left front fender was repainted, and there was clear overspray from the right front door back.
This puppy has seen some hard times- so maybe the side glass had to be replaced at one time- although only foam water liner was cut across the middle from the back to about halfway to the front of the door. The foam had been pulled back on the top half. Would think this was to access the door latch rather than the window.
I have not seen this block with a center hole in RAVE.
And now for more broken and odd bits to identify.
Every time I shut the driver's door I heard a rattle-- so off goes the door card. Here is what I found. Does any of the three pieces look like something that is off of any part in the door assembly? If not-- how the heck does a big brick of chromated steel with a hole through it end up on the bottom of the door? The hole is not threaded.
https://i.imgur.com/a2iVj8E.jpg
With the door card off- any bits I should spray down with light oil? Nice surface corrosion on my chromated steel parts.
Just a quick update. I believe I saved the wood veneer from further deterioration. Will never look like new with my lack of wood refinish skills but my last few coats of matte finish have dulled the high gloss enough to look more acceptable.
Gil- good to know.
Yup- still gurgle so will continue to heat cycle and bleed. My hoses pressurize and I can crush them in a bit using my thumb.
Like most forums, the talk often revolves around solving issues and that magnifies the belief that these issues are bound to occur.
Aside from head gasket leaks due to overheating-I do question---if the factory knew that overheating caused liner slips on a percentage of the motors- why did they not pin the cylinders at the factory. Could be that very few cylinder slips happened during the warrently period when most were serviced at the dealer. On my CarFax I noticed that during the first 70K miles that the dealer service the cooling system twice.