Thank you JMC and Chris for the kind words and encouragement.
Good to hear about the amount of condensation that comes out of these RR's. Mine was dripping on the floor. My friend said that a mile down the road the condensation stopped-- but it did get heavy again just idling before I pulled it into the garage. Perhaps I do not have to install new head gaskets immediately- more an outdoor summer job when there is plenty of natural light and I have many hours of it.
Got the carpet up on the right side---with a fan-still soaked since coolant is slow to evaporate.
Well, the sanding went fairly well, I was pretty careful using only 320. Hard to tell the varnish dust from wood but I only went through on a few sharp edges. I feel a bit bad about that--perhaps one day I will regret not turning this over to the "experts"- but for me, this H&H will be a driver-- not my main since my trusty Astro Van pulls that duty--but not a garage queen either. I hope to stop its downhill spiral which it was on- and to bring it up to a state that there will be another caretaker who will wish to own it after I have to let her go. I hope to have her for a good long while.
Not sure at what point she became a "her"
Interesting that you applied a walnut stain. I do not think I will need to add stain because when I wipe the wood down with denatured alcohol -the brown and figuring come right up. I was going to use up some Ephiphane marine UV poly I have from refinishing some cherry walls I have in the house which are exposed to the sun.
I agree that the matt/satin finish is what I am aiming to replicate. Ephiphane says that on bare wood to use a 50/50 mix of their high gloss (sort of like a wiping mix) to close the pours. Then reduce the thinner on the second and third coat. Finally, the last layer you use either their matt mix or what they call their "hand rubbed" mix. I am thinking of just using the gloss 50/50 mix for a number of coats to see how the finish comes up. I have used their matt and "hand rubbed" and could not tell much difference. Both give a nice slight sheen.satin. I expect that it will work great. Hopefully, it will turn out fine since I feel this will be the last light sanding this veneer can withstand. May have started out about 25 thou thick-- but even my light sanding may have been at the limit. I will find out since I bought a sheet of figured walnut veneer to fix a few spots and may have to spend some work thinning the new veneer down.
I do have one H&H piece to practice on. I had to buy a rear ashtray since --like much of the plastic bits on this H&H- one of the hinges were broken off. I found a guy who had parted out an H&H and still has some trim pieces- so I got lucky and he had the rear ashtray lid with both hinges intact. I am going to experiment on the broken rear ashtray wood to settle on matt or hand-rubbed effect.
I am sure JMC that you will understand my next purchase---you know the guy who parted out the H&H- I decided to buy what interior pieces he had left-- for stupid stupid stupid money. I am the fish he was waiting for. All because my driver's door wood trim had warped so badly that it popped out the H&H silver emblem. I did not notice this until I bought the ashtray lid. Now, where would I find one of these H&H emblems-- easy-- I just had to buy all four of the door panels. He also has all four seats -----with the fold-down trays. No- currently those are not in my budget-- but one day--when I recover-- I am going to try buy them just to get seats with the trays already factory installed.
Like I said- almost every plastic bit is broken on this H&H-- mainly from whatever independent mechanic, the 2nd and 3rd owners used. The Carfax shows the last dealer touching this H&H was at 70K miles and it now has 105K miles. Also, this H&H experienced kids -- I removed the plastic seat aprons by the floor- which are split- and found all kinds of nasty bits along with small kid toys and corroded loose change.
JMC--one question--is the light saddle color plastic bits used in the H&H a special color- or were they also used on many P38's. My passenger seats plastic apron is cracked along with the cover in the right side of the passenger's footwell. If a stock color-- what is the color called so I can google it in my search for these parts?
Also-- I have not found a definitive set of part diagrams and part numbers. I have zeroed in on Reno parts, and the Russian website which provides a good amount of diagrams and part numbers- but not all. I could not find numbers for the seat aprons and other such bits-- and none have a separate break out covering special edition part numbers like the H&H. I know that LL had to have supplemental part numbers- but where can I find them?
Thank you again--Now I also need a either a Nano or and Evolution--- any pros/cons- or does it just come down to price between the two. I am afraid to lock my doors until I buy one of these.
This is my first Land Rover. Through over 45 years of restoring/wrenching/restoring old German and Italian car I have finally got my steam up to own a P38- my favorite Range Rover. I had been able to resist the P38 call all these years because I had enough pain with the cars I was passionate about- but many friends experiences and a good number of Land Rover reviews--- warned me off. But then I saw my first Holland and Holland. Yes- a P38 with just a lot more makeup- but it tipped me toward owning. But years of resistance helped me pass on the two H&H's which came up for sale this year. After passing on the last one I could not stop kicking myself- so I googled H&H and another one like magic popped up. And like with many of my past machines- I paid the same for an H&H which needs all kind of attention--- as I could have paid for a really nice one. I bought it from a gentleman who had it for less than a month and owns a number of Land Rovers. I know-big clue. But the story was he had one car too many and wife says she wants a new car before he owns another project. Good story. My assumption is that he bought it from photos, got it, discovered that it was much worse conditioned then led to believe--and passed it on to me with vague assurances that it was in great shape. I am often the "last Tag" guy. But-while I get a bit pissed each time this happens- I figure it is a project and I like projects.
I just cannot let this orphan H&H be parted out or screwed up anymore then it already is- so I am taking it on and hoping for the best.
I have gotten into it- the O ring leak was obvious--passenger side so wet that the wire tray alongside the side of the passenger's seat (LHD) was filled with coolant. So I did the O ring job the last two days-- and even though someone had gotten into this before judging from all of the access holes cut all over the place - it was still hard without cutting/removing the ducting. Had to try every combination of swivels and 1/4" drives I had in my toolbox to install the screw into the hole. Removing was easy-just could not line up the screw to the hole. I will remember not to remove it next time.
When I got it off the flatbed and started it up I noticed a lot of condensation. I was a cold 35F so condensation is not abnormal at startup- especially from cars which have not been started for a few weeks. Took it for a 10-mile jaunt before I put it in the garage-- and the condensation cleared off in a mile according to my friend who followed me. But it returned while idling. Headgaskets? Hoses are not rock hard when running, the plugs do not look steam cleaned, temp stayed at 12-- so I am thinking 50/50 if I need head gaskets.
And--- I have pulled out all of the wood trim to refinish. This special wood (thinking Claro Walnut Burl from the looks) is so sun cracked it is just short of having to be pulled off and new veneer applied. Called an expert who would finish -but just like any other P38 since they are not sure what the wood used. Maybe never seen an H&H before. Anyway--they are talking $3500 if re-veneer. Not gonna happen. So I am sanding away and taking a crack at it.
OK - spoke enough-- but you get the idea-- orphan restoration. We will see if gets the best of me.