Gil, Rutland-- thank you for your experienced observations.
From what you both say- probably a very small chance of head gasket leaking based upon the condition of the plugs and it appears that the reservoir is not being pressurized enough to be pushing coolant out the overflow tube.
If I had not read over and over how these motors eat head gaskets I would probably not even thought about them as an issue. Problem is-I never had a car which pushed out so much condensation-- that is what has spooked me about possible head gasket leaks even though I have no other symptoms other then the coolant level continuing to drop each heat cycle.
On my race bikes- if I had a leaking head gasket I could always tell because the coolant overflow bottle would pressurize and spit out coolant-- which does not seem to be happening in this case. But that bottle was after the pressure cap- the cap would have to unseat and push water and gas into the overflow bottle so it was a 100% indicator. With the pressure cap on the reservoir and it being only 2/3rd filled when cold, I was not sure if it reacted the same way to cylinder leaks --pushing coolant out of the overflow tube
As far as bleeding---When I first bled the system I did blow through the thin plastic radiator to expansion tank hose to clear it. I squeezed the hose near the expansion tank- but I did not continue doing so as you suggested. If the coolant keeps dropping then I will work that hose more. When I shut off the motor I do hear coolant gurgle in the block. The temperature needle was running straight up at 12 but now it runs just left of it- which I take as a good sign.
Ok-- will check this off my list of possible current issues with my new P38. I am sure there will be other issues to keep me occupied.
Thank you again--- Just too new to P38's so I do not know what I do not know.
OK- O rings replaced and not leaking, received my Nano, the wood trim is coming along-applying the matte finish, and now I am trying to decide if I should just go ahead and replace the head gaskets.
I am on the fence- I feel that I am losing too much coolant at idle after burping the system three times for it not going to the cylinders. I am dripping lots of water under each exhaust pipe exit-- I mean a big puddle on each side. I know when I first drove it when the temp was below freezing there was a constant cloud of water vapor-- but when driving it - in about 1 mile went away- then came back when I was at idle to drive it into the garage. Many say that their 4.6 blows condensation -but does it leave puddles on your driveway on each side? To me- new to LR's--this points to head gaskets since I cannot find another leak.
I refilled the coolant after the O ring replacement and can only burp it in the garage by running it up to 2500 rpm and holding since I do not have it tagged- and there is heavy salt on the roads up here in the mountains. During this, the temperature needle stays just left of 12:00. But after three cycles of this, I have to keep adding coolant to the expansion tank. I was hoping that the system was hard to completely bleed out without driving it. But after three cycles and still having to add about 3/8" of coolant each time to get it up to the cold mark-- I am starting to think my head gaskets are leaking.
Normally I would do a leak down and watch air go into the coolant tank-- but bumping this motor to TDC at each piston to do the leak down is a pain-- let alone screw in without cross thread into the spark plug holes. I had to go into my ZEN mode to "feel the threads" on a number of them.
Aside from adding coolant-- my big symptom is that at idle in the garage, I am dripping lots of water under each exhaust pipe. I have puddles after 20 minutes at idle.
I changed out the plugs which looked like they were in many many miles with the gaps about 50 thousands. As you know- a real pain to pull out- the threads were slightly rusty with no grease or anti-seize applied. I have seen slightly rusty threads before so I am not thinking steam.
They all looked pretty normal-- a bit of black carbon- light brown electrodes, but at the bottom side of each ground lug facing the piston, they were light white. I have not seen this before. I expected if there was a water leak then at least some of them would be steam cleaned of any black carbon. Not sure the white is a sign of most cylinder leaking.
Sooo - what is the normal series of tests to confirm--- besides a leak down? I have a radiator pressure tester- but no way is it set up for the cap used on the RR expansion tank. I could buy one off of Ebay and insert a Schrader valve-- but is this worth going down that road?
If I do just dive in and replace the head gaskets just to baseline the motor- are there any special tools which make the job easier? I have a 32 mm fan clutch removal tool- soon to get a 36mm tool for this job. I know the heat shields will be the first big pain-- any tools that make it easier?
I also know that the secondary air tubes will be a huge pain. I attempted to remove them to get a clear shot at the spark plugs but the nuts would not budge. The angle of attack is miserable for the back ones. Do most of you remove the heads with the tubes installed?
I assume APR studs- have not heard a downside except for cost. With China making so many aftermarket bits-- who do you trust to have a good head gasket kit?
Anyone have had the same symptoms --go to replace the head gaskets ---and find they were not the issue?
Thanks-- been through many of the treads-- seems like each head gasket replacement is a challenge unique to each owner and P38.
Not sure what to say--but it looks about as good as my wood does at the moment.
OK- I have sanded all of the bits and applied the first coats of varnish. I would say that the factory used a linseed oil but mine was so sun checked and cracked I need a finish that would harden up and hold much of the veneer lifted bits together. First coats are gloss which shows off the wood. Now I need to tone it all down to look hand oiled gunstock style like it came using a matt finish. I am not a wood person so some future collector will be cursing me.
Forgive the links-- somehow I cannot copy the correct bit on Imgur to get a photo to show up.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/k7exszJ.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/1SCYKew.jpg[/img]
It is going to be what it is going to be--- part of the total acceptance I must immerse myself in as I get my P38 back on the road- and keep on the road.
And a few hours behind many of you---Merry Christmas to all.
RutlandRover wrote:
MarkTr wrote:
Also PM'ed-- expect I am a bit late- but had to ask.
It arrived at my house this morning, sorry :P
Good for you--- I ordered one after I received no reply--- now I hope it does not get caught up in customs. Only businesses which provide a bunch of paperwork seem to get US customs attention. From the order reply I received when my order went through- Blackbox seems to wave a red flag with import paperwork. I know it is the correct and proper thing to do- but last time this happened I had to apply for an Importer license from the US government and pay double. This was about five years ago so I am sure it has lapsed. Not sure what paperwork triggers this response but it has only happened when I bought from a business.
Well - that is strange. How could something this big drop down into the shift lever well? I am glad that it does not seem to be a broke RR bit- means I only have to worry about the other broken plastic bits.
I think every plastic cover I have removed has at least 1 or many more broken retaining clips. It appears that Land Rover designed them just a tad too tight--- so to remove them puts them close or over the limit of their tensile strength. May of have had some margin when the plastic was fairly new- but when older---
OK I may have copied the wrong box-- try this
OK here is a photo
I do not see the photo I copied and pasted from Imgur. Do I need to share it first on Imgur?
I pulled the center console and found more broken plastic bits. The biggest look like a grey plastic tube which was broken in half top to bottom. Looks like it fit around a rod. The only rod I think it would fit is the parking brake handle. Since mine is on so tight I cannot twist or pull it off I cannot check. I cannot post a photo here so I cannot show you what I am talking about.
I never went over the low side but heard of some piece of plastic breaks and makes it impossible to go to different positions. I drove her in normal Drive so I do not have that issue. Anyone know what it may be?
It is about 1" long, ID about 1/2" ID. It has two flanges one top and one bottom- but only on Left and Right side like wings-about 11/2" wide from left to right. Both the front and back side are both flat.
This is probably a common broke bit-- just would like to know what it does and what I need to buy.
This HnH was treated pretty badly judging from all of the dirt down and around the shift area.
Your unlikely to find anyone on here in favour of coils - look at the title banner if you haven't seen it already.
Brian-
Ha--- I missed the fine print-- glad you pointed it out to me.
One P38 owner offered me his take-off Dunlop airbags with 40K on them just for the cost of shipping. He went to springs and was quite adamant that I should not want to go back to bags. Two sides I guess.
I take it that at 40K miles- even original Dunlops are not to be trusted. Is it better to get new Arnotts then install 40K Dunlops? Was hoping to try them out and not spend for new just to try them out. Once installed it looks easy to install new ones. Removing the springs look like more of a problem if I use the cheap spring compressor rods I have. The scissor type looks too expensive for a one time project.
What brand dampers-- I have always installed Bilsteins on my machines.
Gilbert- well my intention was to get her back on the road and once I felt no major item was about to break on me- that I would go back to airbags since all of the bits are still in place. I was going to buy bags and then rebuild each part of the system to make sure everything works before I install the bags. Have not figured out the jury-rigged bypass wiring which is a mess of single wires ending in fuses- but when I get to that I will ask the forum what they think is going one with the mess. Too much debate about springs/bags for me to understand the fine points unless I drive one myself. The spring on it right now are pretty floaty-- my 2005 Astro Van is way more precise in turns and way better damped. Could be the current dampers are not well matched to springs that are installed.
Printing out the codes and instructions seem like the path I will need to go. Wonder what the instruction are if you buy a used one- such as the one Billy may sell?
Hi Brian-- I am sure you are correct about getting the evolution registered and up and running. Just seemed upon a casual read-through to be a bit more complicated than required.
I had only scanned through the instructions because I had not made up my mind yet about which box to buy. My impression was that I had to register using a PC laptop in the car--- but also near WiFi in order to communicate with the vendor. Not sure how I got that impression but if true then I am not sure how I will be able to do that-- my WIFI does not transmit out to my garage- or even out to my driveway.
I use only Mac's- but I do have an old IBM T42 with XP on it which I have used to run a number of scan programs for other vehicles I have owned. So this may do the job-- but very slow if some downloading is required.
Need to go back online and read the instructions- Thanks Brian-
JMC-
You are very right about the cables soaking in coolant. While I have a fan and a dehumidifier going- your suggestion about pulling out all of the carpets is making sense for many reasons. Knowing myself though- if I pull the carpet- I will then pull the dash- and then I am off to the races and may have her buried in the garage for months.
For this reason-going full Monty even on the carpet will take some mulling over. I have gone full monty on many cars so I know the work and passion required.
There are some vehicles I know from the start I am going full Monty and there are others which I want to enjoy as a driver-- so I bring it up to driving standard - arresting the downward spiral of deterioration - but not making it so nice I do not wish to drive it and park it -- at least in safe locations.
Remember this is my first Range Rover so I am not going into it with a major passion like many on this forum have. I know this is a special vehicle- so I am starting with that. What I am finding is that the more I work on her- the more I am becoming deeply attached to her. But I wish to pace myself. Have read many threads on RR forums where many owners/caretakers start out excited and eventually the P38 issues finally wear them down so they sell out and move on. They love the P38- but are tired. I remember in the early '80s when I was into Bevel Ducati's-- the same dichotomy among owners-- you had to assume that even with constant vigilance you may be caught with a dead bike in the middle of nowhere. Thus the passionate core of true believers.
I feel I need road time with my H&H- see what fails - see if she wants to work with me and not against me. I keep the machines I love for many many years- at 68 I feel I can play the long game with her restoration while enjoy driving her.
Yes-- and the carpet may still come out---
Brian- so evolution it is.
I just read the procedure to register the evolution online---and also perhaps to turn on the software. Wow- almost as complicated as the alarm system on these P38's
I am going to wait and see if Billy has already promised his Evolution (?) to the first member who contacted him-- and if so- I should not wait up buying a new one.
Rutland-
That is thickest chopped rubber flooring I have seen in a car. I have seen it only under carpet in homes where it is a pain to scrape off any hardwood floor you may have if it has been installed for very long.
I will try the paper approach-- I have been putting towels under it and pressing down trying to squeeze water out of the chopped rubber. I think it is doing OK- but being that it is coolant it may take the many months you mention. If it was warm outside I would just put it outside and open the doors with the battery disconnected.
Marty-
I think you have tipped me toward the evolution. I always buy as many factory tools I can for jobs I know I will take on for each car/truck I own/restore/wrench on. I have a shelf load of them-- but I offer the appropriate ones to the next caretaker but most do not wrench and just want to buy a car from me because they know it will be right-- at least until it is not. I am often surprised how long the new owner goes without worry-even when I told them I was watching something on the car like a T/O bearing noise. Something I would replace in the next month or so just because stuff like that drives me crazy.
So it was just my craziness that I was debating the Pro box versus the home mechanic box. If you think the evolution will do what I need- then saving the money is a plus. I may get lucky and find a used one- but aside from the one just advertised here-- i have never seen a used P38 specific one on ebay so far.
Brian-
Sorry---I was comparing the NANO SMV-2 versus Nanocam Evolution. My assumption was that the term NANO always referred to the small version of the SMV-2 which requires a PC to operate. The Nanocam Evolution was the small stand-alone unit-- which I called the "Evolution" in my post.
It was these two which seemed to have the same functions for a P38 but with the SMV-2 you could (if pressed) pay big money for a software package that will unlock the BECM. Aside from that, both units seem to do the same thing- except for the full page view you can get with the NANO SMV-2 on a laptop.
I did not know if the SMV-2 was worth the extra money if I do not think I will want to buy the unlock package.
Looks like Microcat is now subscription based.
Also PM'ed-- expect I am a bit late- but had to ask.
Aside from the fact that for the NANO you can buy a very expensive software package to unlock the BECM, and that you need a PC- any opinion about choosing between the NANO or the Evolution. Spent much time on BBS reading and watching their videos- along with some chit-chat back and forth with the owner- but I am still not clear about the practical differences between the two. I know I like the full-screen format of the NANO- but perhaps not enough to spend an extra $200-$300 difference.