Welcome to the source-- I mean it- "Gilbertd" is one the many fellow pub members who help to prop up the other website once it was destroyed by the new corporate owner.

Happy New Year to all on the forum

This marks my first full year of ownership of my "Royal Crate"

Still loving the cr#p out of her.

Everything I have repaired so far has stayed repaired.

Hoping next year I will continue to be so lucky.

Great Link Jim-- thanks.

All clear as you said. Yeah- when I saw the word Permanent and I could not clear the codes after cycling the yellow connector, I thought I must have a "permanent" break somewhere in the circuit beside the connector. Will see in the coming days what the SRS does.

Thanks Gilbert-- will check it today-- did not know that about the Nano.

When the Nano text says "permanent" in addition to the fault statement, is the Nano just indicating that the fault tripped enough times to be considered permanent?

When I first bought my truck last year the SRS light came on- without a fault statement on the dash. Spray cleaned the yellow connector under the left seat and no more red SRS light.

This Sunday the SRS light came on and the "airbag failure" note came up. Stoped the truck and restarted- no SRS light or fault statement. Down the road, both came back on.

Got home and hooked up the Nano and could not clear the fault "left airbag failure (permanent)". Sprayed again with DeoxIt and could clear faults which stayed clear so far.

What is strange is the Nano keeps the "left airbag failure (permanent)" text even when saying that all faults are cleared.

What is the Nano trying to tell me when the text remains in the fault window and says that this fault is "permanent"?

Does the Nano retain "airbag failure" faults in memory so even when cleared this failure is considered Permanent?

Roman- I am going with the cheapest short term fix-- :)

OK-- I did not look deep enough in the other holes to see the adjusters---will play with them tomorrow. Mine are set way too high so that I am blinding oncoming drivers.

OK- I have searched, googled, looked through my owner's manual, checked RAVE- and somehow I have missed how to aim our headlamps. I can pivot them with the 8 mm hex but I cannot seem to find the simple up and down adjuster.

Why is this not in the owner's manual? If it is --- then I have been having a very long senior moment. Heck- I can no longer find the last tool I was using a minute ago.

Welcome aboard GH5-

I find gearheads often have the same obsessions.

As far as old stereo equipment--- I still run my Luxman M-300/CL35/PS-X600 table along with old 3-way Theils-- all of which I bought many many many years back when I finally had a few bucks to buy a good setup. When digital came out I went for a Denon DCD 3560 CD deck. Finally had to recap the DCD to bring it back to life. Sort of stopped there and never looked at any newer equipment. Now it seems I own "classic" equipment. I am not old-- I am "Classic"

+1

Gene- I called my local dealer and spoke to the parts manager. At his request, I PDFd him a copy of my registration and my driver's license to prove I owned my P38. He then looked up my lock bar code per my VIN number. He called me and gave me the number for my records. From the Lock Bar Code, he cut me two valet keys and sent them to me-$30 each.

My dealer is in Ashville

Clive-- if you have a pdf I would love to have a copy.

Rob--Thanks for your description.

Sounds like with the correct taper bearing race --which you found --you pretty much do what needs to be done to press in the Rubber through the bearing into the hole. Stability and good alignment key.

Thanks--You saved me a bunch of trial and error with your generous share of part numbers, sizes, tips.

I was thinking that you welded the bearing to the top of a short tube having the matching diameter---sort of compress the entire bushing-- like done in those mushroom head tire plug kits. Knew I was overthinking it.

I have a 17-ton press--- is this enough?

Any chance of a photo of your installer/30306 bearing cup/washer hardware/tool---and a photo of a moment during the installation process? All of us will be facing this project sooner or --- well just sooner.

Hi Jim--I know Laurel well- I lived in Cheverly MD from '74-2009. I did not dare own a P38 until I retired and had the time to tend to one after I wound down all of my other projects. Also-I now have a huge garage which also played into the decision.

The DC area has a huge number of collector cars---- go to any car and coffee and you will catch the attention of many knowledgeable collectors/gearhead/owners of every machine imaginable. Your P38 Westminster is rare- even in the DC area.

Gilbert-

Went out and put my foot into it and got it so I could feel some shifting going on--normally I am a feather throttle just to save gas. This time I went out to three-mile stretch with no hills very close to my house so she was not fully warmed up.

I also got up to speed more rapidly than I normally do in the Crate--I could feel shifting and the rpms drop down -by the second mile I got it to do 60 mph at about 2200 rpm. Sounds like it is now in the ballpark when not fully warmed up. Not sure if putting my foot into it as I pulled away from a stop or what caused it to act more normal. In my case, this is abnormal because for the last few months I always saw 3k at 55 mph.

I know that most of the time up here in the mountains I am going up and down steep hills so I seem to always see 3K at 55 even when I am going downhill or even when I hit a fairly level straight between hills- which does not last too long. I wonder if it is the hills that keep it in 3rd and when I get to even a long (say 3 mile) straight it does not wish to shift up to forth.

I only went to a very local flat stretch near my house so perhaps putting my foot into it and not going up a hill made it react more normal.

I will know this weekend where I will be traveling through the mountain roads- see if it gets out of third gear.

Gilbert--- I must be in third if I am running 3000 rpm at 55 mph. I was thinking I should be below 3K-- more like 2.5 K-- but now you say you can run 80 mph at 3K my box is definitely not shifting into fourth.

What I mean is that "Sport mode" light is not lit up on the Manual/Sport button located on the shift gate--so I know I am in normal mode. I also have a plain D on the dash panel rather than an S if I was in Sport mode.

So do you think I should shift to 3rd from drive and see if the rpm change?

If I am not shifting into 4th what does that mean? I have not seen any faults with my Nano-- perhaps I have missed the fault. What module would I find transmission faults?

If I do have a fault and clear it I am not sure that would do anything if I have an underlying issue--any idea what that issue could be?

Boy, this is timely. I have been wondering what rpm I should be running at 55 mph. I am always running 3K at 55- was thinking I should be running about 2500 rpm at 55. I am getting about 16.5 miles per gallon so I have not spent too much time worrying about it. But now that Jim is saying he can run 65 mph at 3100 rpm and is worried then I think I may have an issue with my gearbox.

I am thinking about going down to third gear and see what it does--- and then try Sport mode. I know I am in normal mode since the dash just says D and the gate light is not on.

beautiful-- your perseverance has paid off big time!