I had a bit of a measure over the weekend as I found a 10k NTC thermistor in one of my boxes of bits.

The internal temperature sensor is 10K NYC, but it appears the heater core one I have here on my test rig is maybe 20 or 22k NTC.

I didn't get around to testing the evaporator or outside temp sensors yet, but I'd day they will be one of those 2 values

The switchpack is most likely repairable (not that you need it at the moment!)... I've only found 2 or 3 in the 30-40 I've refurbed that I couldn't actually repair...

Also, if you haven't already - then it is worth checking the connectors inn the RHF Footwell, behind the kick panel.

These are the links from the fascia (dash) loom and the body loom, and are known for getting moisture in them and corroding. Both the AC request and AC grant lines go through these connectors. They go through C102/202 which is the bigger 18way White connectors pair in there.

AC Grant is Black/Green and on Pin 1, and AC Request is Black/Grey, and is on Pin 12.
They also go through C106/506 between the body loom and the engine loom, and AC Request is on Pin 6, AC Grant is on Pin 7

The feed from the HEVAC to the Trinary switch/AC Compressor also goes through the C102/202 connector aswell - and it a Black/Yellow wire on Pin

Something else that is worth checking, as those connectors are known for causing issues.

I haven't been and measured it up, but the Land Rover tool for the job that I have is about 60-70 mm long I would say - maybe a bit more.

At the top, the bush goes in maybe 10mm as a sort of 'hand tight' if you like before you need the press to push it in.
I press the bush into the reducer tool so it gets flush with the smaller end, and then line this up to the radius arm bore and then press it through from there.

If I get a chance/remember over the weekend, I'll try to measure up the one I have here for the large end/small end ID's and the length.

I believe there should be one of them for each door - it could be that one has been replaced before and it's now fallen out too...

The culprit is usually in a metal runner at the front edge of the door. The rubber fits in a way that (from memory - it's been awhile!) the curved edges fold together and basically touch - the back edge then slots into the metal running - and then when the window comes down, it slips in between the folded over edges and that keeps the window steady from rattling.

When I put mine back in, I ran a smear of silicone grease down the edges that create the slot for the glass to run in - helps prevent it from binding/grabbing on the rubber when it moves.

I also seem to remember that the 2 sides that fold are unequal - one side is bigger than the other and folds over further. It does then matter which way the rubber goes into the metal channel to make sure the glass runs in it correctly.

It actually sounds more complicated (especially in my explanation) than what it is - but it's one of those things that is hard to explain, but makes sense when you get it fitted!

I'd be interested to see if you get any low-level whine in the door amps with it wired like that.

The door amps use a balanced line level input, whereas the pre-outs on head units are all unbalanced. I used the attenutors on mine to drop the amplified output level down to the line level expected by the amps, and it works well, with no noise. I did have my subwoofer hooked up on the sub out of the head unit, and got a low level whine from the woofer.

I ended up using an audio isolating transformer on the sub, which has got rid of the whine completely, but I've also read of people using them on the normal door amp feeds aswell to get rid of any whine that there may be. I went the attenuator route this time, as I found last time I did it with just the phono outs of a head unit that I had whining I couldn't get rid of any other way.

You can get the 10pin connectors aswell on the likes of eBay (too late for your install though :) ) as I got a couple awhile ago to make up attenuator boxes for another owner.

What steering wheel control box did you go for?

Oh, that AA yellow P38 with Modials.... Yes please!

Yes, workshop kettle is in order... might be worth boiling it a couple of times and watering something with it, as it hasn't been used in ages!

I'm going to bring at least one, hopefully 2 big bottles of water and coffee/tea/milk etc. I'm starting to write a list of what to pack in the morning!

No worries - I'm just a little more wary in general after it broken into a few years ago!

Shouldn't need to tow it out - it's the one that starts and drives on it's own :) and no disco in sight either!

Once I've moved the press tomorrow, I can dig out 3 of the wheels, and then just have one to swap off my 2000, and you'll have a full set to take back!

Wish you were going to be here Morat!

I've just edited Gilbertd's post so it's just got the Postcode.... not that I'm stupidly security concious, but it is easy enough to find, and I am not a massive fan of having my address details out on a public platform for just anyone to see.

Food - there is nothing around unless you go into Marlborough. So bring supplies, but if BBQ trays or anything are brought, they need to be taken away. Likewise, I would ask that any parts, wrappings, oil, etc that you bring, you take the old stuff away. I do have a bin there, but there is no scheduled collection, so any waste/recycling, I have to bring home with me to dump - so if we can all do our bit, that would be appreciated.

RutlandRover - there is air available, but you probably won't need the mains or air impact guns - both Sloth and I have fairly sizeable cordless impact guns which I am happy for people to borrow mine.

Timings. I am probably going to be there just after 9am with any luck, so if you're there earlier, you'll just have to wait ;). I have to load up my RR with all my tools etc in the morning before I leave. I usually do it the night before, but I have CCTV of some little *** trying the door handles on the RR one night... I only found it because one of the neighbours had left their car unlocked by mistake and they went all through it (luckily nothing was nicked!) - but I am a bit more wary about leaving anything substantial/valuable in there!

Once I get there I have to move one of my other P38's out of the workshop and park that up next to it, and clear a bit of stuff to drag the press out, so it's usable... I'm then going to dump mine inside to do an oil change, VC bearing swap, rear shocks, and brake pads all round. I think after that, we are going to do an oil change on Sloth's one and investigate a rattle, hopefully from exhaust. After that, the workshop space can be used by others aswell.

There is enough flat space outside to be able to park a couple up, and then get under them to remove radius arms - and then press the bushes inside the workshop, and then refit them. I did mine with it parked up outside, so should be easy enough.

Safe travels to those coming, and see you tomorrow!
Marty

I think as long as you have basic tools, you'll be OK - though I'll have my normal tool chest there, along with big impact driver, press, bush tools and the likes...

Sloth usually brings a host of tools too, same with Gilbertd - so we should be covered.

I need to dig out the bush tool tomorrow - it's probably going to need a zest up with a wire brush as I haven't used it in ages!

As JMC says - the pegs it hinges on are flat on one side. Lift it vertical and it should come straight out.

I believe they are a 10K NTC thermistor for all of the P38 HEVAC Temp sensors

Looks like you have the O ring side of things under control...

LED dash... Yes, I've done mind, and no it wasn't just a straight swap of lamps. I completely stripped down the cluster and fitted LEDs in to light the gauges/speedo/tacho and then added extra LEDs to light the needles.

You can probably swap in some LED lamps but I would imagine that the output would be pretty patchy.

I was going to offer LED dash conversions, but there was a lack of demand and people wanting them cheaper, which was tough as it takes about 5-6 hours to convert one and get it all working and looking right.

I can post a couple of pictures up if you want to see the result.

As stated above... If you bought a complete lockset, then the fob code being transmitted by your new fobs will be different to what is programmed into the BECM.

Albeit in the UK, but info have the capability of reading the code the fob transmits directly and then being able to reprogram that code into the BECM to then allow those fobs to work and the remote to sync properly with the BECM.

If you're interested in me taking a look, I am happy to, but would need one of the key fobs and the BECM logic board sent to me, so I can hook it all up and sort it out.

There it unfortunately isn't any other way of reprogramming the code in the BECM, even if you do have the lockset code from LR for the new lockset.

Feel free to drop me a PM or email if you want to discuss more!

I would take the door card off and unplug the door latch, and then see if F15 still blows when the tailgate latch/wiring is plugged in

If it does then your short is somewhere before the door latch.

It could be possible it's a damaged wire in the tailgate loom that is causing it, or a dead motor in the tailgate latch itself.

Which switch are we talking about? The tailgate switch, or the CDL switch in the door latch?

Sorry - just seen this.

I can look at hosting the disc image somewhere - but I need to dig it out from either my laptop or the server - it's been years since I played about with the factory P38 discs. Also from memory (I'm sure I wrote it down somewhere) is needs to be burnt in a specific format/mode or it won't work. I remember going through about 5 discs when I first found the image trying to get it right!

I head away for work again tomorrow - but I'll see if I get a chance to look for it before I leave. If not, then again if you send BECM to me (and radio if you still need code...) in March when I'm home, then I can see about burning a couple of discs for you and putting them in the box

If you can't get the code - then feel free to send the radio to me when you send the BECM in March... I can retrieve the code from the EEPROM in the radio... I've done it to a couple of them here now, and I'm sure I wrote down how to do it somewhere.... hahaha

If you've been running it a lot on LPG, then the map will probably be slightly different to petrol - even if it has been tuned, so normally the petrol ECU will still make changes to the fuel trims as it's reading changes in the lambda sensors.

In my head (and from experience on my sequential system when trying to get it set up properly - and having a Motronic P38) if you have a duff/intermittent lambda sensor then it's possible adjusting the fuel trims inaccurately (if at all) and that could be causing the issue to that one bank. Also the LPG setup has a 'bank 2' offset trim, to allow for one bank to have the map adjusted slightly to the other if they aren't giving the same LPG injection timings (I'm guessing to do with if one side LPG pipes are different length for example).

One thing I noticed a LOT on mine whilst trying to get the LPG side sorted was that if the LPG map was out too far, then the petrol ECU would keep trimming the fuel trims, and then it would start to run like shite with random misfires when it hit the limit of the fuel trim, and it couldn't trim any more.

If you're getting issues on 1,3,5, 7 - a whole bank of cylinders and that Lambda isn't changing, then chances are that's your issue - it will run reasonably in open loop on Petrol as the ECU will have a backup map for that - but over time running on LPG, if it's not trimming as it should, then chances are that bank is running too rich/lean on gas and causing random misfires.

I'd sort the Lambda sensor first, reset the adaptive values, and then see how it goes.

The other thing I've found to cause the Motronic systems grief is a non genuine MAF sensor - aftermarket ones don't seem to be made/set up to the same tolerances as Bosch ones, and this again causes fuel trims to get pulled out of whack - mine could reset the adaptives, and within a few hundred miles, idle like a sack of spanners. Putting a new genuine MAF in sorted it straight out.

Genuine MAF and Genuine Bosch lambda sensors on the motronic P38s are the 2 things that seem to keep them running sweetly in my experiences!