The motors seem to last pretty well... They had a bmhabit of burning out on older vehicles with RF interference as the BECM kept triggering the front doors to lock and it burnt motors out eventually.
Later BECMs were updated in the firmware so as not to do that. And, well RF interference issues are solvable these days so motors seem to last better!
In the RHF latch I use DC1A-A1AA and DC3A-A1AA from memory... Might be DC1C/DC3C even but the difference is in the pins. One of those is a 5A contact rating that I use for the CDL switch as the tailgate motor grounds through it and the original one (and the others I use for door ajar/key switches) are 0.1A contact rating.
These need pinning in place as the mounting holes are different to the factory moulded chunk of switches. I use M2.5 rod to pin the switches in the correct place. Sadly it's not just an easy swap out of switches - there's a fair bit of work involved!
Hope this helps!
I have looked at loads of different CDL motor replacemens and even bought some with a longer shaft on them to see if they could be adapted to work.... The main issue is the electrical connections - they are at the bottom of the motor, closest to the shaft. The other version have the electrical connection at the opposite end, so wouldn't clip in where the standard ones do.
Also getting the plastic bit off is somewhat harder than it looks on a lot of the motors!
I did at some point find a place in Brazil that had motors available that looked nearly identical to the P38 one, including the white plastic bit on the shaft already. The problem.. they wouldn't take overseas credit cards or ship internationally....
The search continues!
Morat wrote:
Is there any point in getting one if you already have a Gen3? Not that I've checked yet, just curious :)
Nope - If you've got a Gen3 receiver then the filter won't do anything extra for you.
To clarify a bit of the door latch situation - yes they are listed on my website that I don't do them anymore. This is mostly because I have pretty much run out of some of the parts to build them - mostly the Central Locking motors which are known to burn out on earlier vehicles at times. Between that and people not returning their old latches once I'd send a refurb one out has left me low on stock.
I do have about 6 of them that have trickled back in, but most of these are LH latches, with only a couple of RH ones - and at least one of these already has someone after it.
I will still do door latches - but they won't be listed up on the website again until I have a decent stock of them which are refurbed and ready to send. Also part of my lack of enthusiasm towards them is that it is a pretty laborious process to rebuild them, and given that I try to make them affordable vs second hand units and the fact that I'm most likely not going to get units back honestly means I can't be bothered a lot of the time! Especially as I've been away working a lot more this year - to then spend a large chunk of the little time I've had at home pulling manky old latches apart isn't really my idea of fun! As/when I get time and inclination I will obviously continue to process the ones I have - but as such not advertising them anymore.
I've scaled back a lot of what I'm doing now, most around the fact I've been busier with work - but also that I have my own things I want to do when I am at home. I've also had a few cases where people seem to take the piss a bit when it comes to my knowledge/expertise. I had one customer who I'd fixed an ABS ECU for him back at the beginning of the year email me to ask about the warranty on it (which is stated at one month - but I'll obviously try and help out prior customers as much as I can) - because he suspected it was faulty again - but with a DIFFERENT fault to the one I claim to fix, and had actually repaired on his ECU. Because I was about to head away for work, I said I would send him a spare ECU I had that was tested, so he could try it and let me know if it made any difference - as it would be quicker all round than him waiting for me to be back home and then sending his ECU back to me for testing etc. I told him to let me know the outcome, and if the replacement ECU fixed it, to send the faulty one to me so I could check and see what the issue was etc. To this day I haven't even received a message to say the other one arrived (it did as I checked RM website), nor whether it fixed the problem, even a thank you for sorting something out - which technically wasn't even in warranty, but I did to try and help someone out. I chased the customer up a couple of weeks ago with an email (as it had been over a month by this point) and still haven't had any form of response. So that's £100 worth of ECU/postage which I won't see again, because I'm trying to do the right thing by a customer, who if they'd originally paid more for a replacement ECU from a breaker would have been told to go buy another one...
Between things like that and not getting core items returned (yes I keep the core charge, but that doesn't actually cover buying a load more faulty parts to then strip/rebuild) and being busier with work, means that I'm a lot less inclined to bother with a lot of parts these days. I know it's a case of a few people ruining it for everyone - but unfortunately when you're doing it for yourself and it's not a main business, then things have to be prioritised..
Another example before my rant is over... I tested a BECM for a customer as his local Land Rover expert had traced an ABS fault to the BECM. He brought the BECM and ABS ECU to me for testing (I was under the assumption the vehicle wasn't driveable long distance because of said ABS fault, but found out later the whole vehicle could have come to me which in hindsight would have saved a lot of headache). I tested the BECM and ABS ECU on the bench, and found nothing wrong with them - I tried a second BECM with the ABS ECU to check if it reacted the same, and after a few hours, found that they did both work as I would expect for a bench test, and I found nothing wrong. "What do I owe you" I was asked... "Don't worry about it" I said, "You've driven 3 hours to bring it to me and have a drive back now - and in reality I've only spent a couple of hours going over things on the bench, and I haven't even fixed anything as to me it looks fine". A few weeks later I'm then getting emails and calls to say that the BECM has now been refitted and the vehicle doesn't start at all, and can I call the Land Rover expert to help him figure out why. I tried calling, to get it ringing out, not even to an answerphone. I'm then away for work for a few weeks, and get a call whilst I'm in Canada at what's 4am here with the time difference. I woke up and missed the call and had a voicemail which came across as being a bit peeved off that I hadn't contacted HIS Land Rover expert to try and help fix his vehicle. I ended up calling back and then a few phone calls and a couple of days later get in touch with the garage to find that it isn't turning over (GEMS petrol) but the Check Engine light is on, but the engine ECU says it has "incorrect settings" when he tries to get it to relearn a security code, but yet can read that there are no faults, and see live data?!? And that he hasn't done any other form of troubleshooting as he's been waiting to hear from me (though never tried contacting me directly either). After going through a few things to check over the phone, he said he's try them and then if I called back when I was home he would update me... I got an email a couple of days later from the owner saying it hadn't started from the key but by jumping the start relay it started... so the BECM isn't outputting to the starter relay, or there's an issue with the wiring between BECM and starter... so I've spent another hour or so compiling information, connectors, wiring colours etc from RAVE for the expert (who's actually being paid to fix this) to check. I know that it will still ultimately end up being "my" issue to solve when I get home if it isn't already sorted... but all this now because I did something for nothing in testing the BECM, when even before then I was fairly confident it wasn't a BECM issue - though I was assured the fault had to be there as it had been traced to it.
Rant over - but I just thought I would share a bit of some of the things which seem expected of me trying to help out - on top of working a full-time job! - I don't mind it most of the time - but sometimes when things aren't sent back, I'm expected to solve issues or give ideas/information freely where 'experts' are being paid to fix these things - or people taking my generosity of trying to get an issue sorted and work the details/financials out later to the point of not even returning emails now... some days it makes me wonder why I bother!
Definite rant over.... but if you are still requiring a door latch when I get home... I might just have one in pieces ready for reassembly, that I am aiming to get sorted after I've kicked the jet lag. If you have already sorted a replacement and feel like donating the dead one to the 'cause' then I'll happily pay for the postage!
Marty
I have a feeling that the push in things are called a cupsac. I'm not sure if they are available separately, but I'm sure if you can get some in the right size, they will probably do the job...
Unless I've got the wrong thing in my head
I wonder if your key in switch is working properly...
You shouldn't be able to "slam lock" a P38 from about 96 onwards... If you've hit the sill lock button and closed the door, it should always unlock all the doors automatically... Especially if the key is detected as being in the ignition... Definitely something strange going on there
I bought one like that, but the 20T version as I've heard that various bits on a P38 can take a fair bit to shift. Also when I was pricing up, 20T vs 12T wasn't much difference in price. Haven't looked lately though.
The friendly sync in the ignition is tied in with the passive immobiliser. If that has been turned off in the BECM, then the key won't sync in the ignition, and HAS to be done in the door.
The vehicle worked exactly as it was designed to. If you lock the vehicle with the remote, and unlock with the key, then you WILL need to enter the EKA (either via door lock or Nanocom if the vehicle supports it - IE BECM PAM V36 or above - which from memory is mid-97 onwards).
As far as I can tell, the idea behind it is that in the days where you had a valet key - you could leave the vehicle with the valet at your country club, give him a manual key and keep the remote fob. They could then start and drive it to park, lock with key in the door. They could then unlock with key in the door, start the vehicle and bring it back to you. Now, if they'd decided to copy your manual key and then wanted to try and nick the vehicle - assuming you had locked with the remote (which LR tell you to always do in the handbook) - they'd turn up and unlock the drivers door with the key blade - but then no be able to start the vehicle and drive it off... The EKA is there as a backup to the remote not working - so if you had locked with the remote, but then it stopped working for any reason, you could then enter the EKA code in the door to get the vehicle mobilised and moving.
So if your fob has stopped working, and you'd locked with the remote - then you only being able to open the drivers door is totally normal. Entering the EKA fixed that and got you moving. If the key isn't resyncing in the ignition, then try locking it with the key in the door and pressing the lock button on the fob, and then unlock whilst pressing unlock button. It should resync the key that way.
I don't know if your BECM has passive immobilisation turned off or not. But as I mentioned - along with turning off the feature where the vehicle will automatically re-immobilise itself after about 30s of inactivity and the key out of the ignition, it also turns off the friendly sync in the ignition.
Hope this helps clear up how it works, and why your vehicle did what it did... perfectly normal.
Yes, I have radius arm bush tool for pressing then in/out aswell.
I'm away working a lot until mid December now though, and it's a heavy bugger to send... But if you still need it by then, I'm happy to lend it out. After I've re-bushed the arms for my 98 :)
If the outer door handle has gone floppy and not returning, then probably the cam kit will sort it without having to mess around with other lockets etc.
Its likepy that as the handle hasn't returned it's not letting the latch mechanism return either, which will cause issues with the internal door handle too.
I'd check for 12v at the connector when it's supposed to be running to determine whether it is a bad wire/connection to the motor, or whether the motor itself has seized.
If it's the motor, then I think the easiest way or replacement is to remove the whole headlamp module!
The cheap ones look like LHD to me by the pictures they've shown.
Gilbertd wrote:
1750, but it had also been standing for 18 months so wouldn't have had an MoT and it has those awful looking wheels on it. So a bit of a gamble really but still one worth taking if you know what you are doing.
Hmm, just clicked the link again and that wasn't the one I was looking at... that one didn't have Oxford leather... weird how that happened, as I now can't find the one that I saw yesterday!
Jeez - that last one went for £1550... and it had the Oxford leather seats!
AFAIK the knock sensors are a piezoelectric device, which turns pressure/vibration etc into an electrical pulse.
From what I've read, it detects knock on all 4 cylinders on the bank, so the ECU will know when it's fired the spark plug and it will then obviously be calibrated to expect a reading off the sensor at a certain time after that. If it doesn't get it, or the timing is out, then it will either adjust the timing, or log it as a misfire.
As they are somewhat solid state devices, and not really known for random failure, second hand would be fine IMO
no10chris wrote:
Marty, you’ve obviously been away, we’ve dealt with that beauty already..
I must have missed that one!
If you think that's bad... this is on par at least...
In theory his head unit should work, yes. That's how doing the DSP conversion to one of my amp boards works - once the additional wiring is run for the rear left/right inputs to the head unit that is.
I'm not sure about the line input - I've never done one but from what I gather the Clarion one wire into the tape deck input to the main board on the stereo. I don't see why that wouldn't work on the Alpine either.. but not sure how much digging inside is required or what pins to attach to.
Gilbertd wrote:
It won't as it only has two outputs, left and right. The front/rear fade and sub was all done in the DSP amp.
Not quite... Only 2 outputs are used on the DSP systems - but the head unit between DSP and non-DSP is identical. If it powers up and can't talk to the DSP amp on the control wire, then it goes into normal mode and drives all 4 outputs and controls all the audio internally.
Presuming the 1999 Hoppy has is the later one with the alpine head unit, not the earlier Clarion head unit - then you should be able to put one in from a DSP system and get all 4 speakers working and the steering wheel controls. Assuming the wire is there in the loom from the steering wheel to the radio.
If you go the android route, then the steering wheel controls (when wired in) work without adapter box - as they are programmed in the unit.
It's for the rear footwell light that goes under the overhang of the center console in the rear footwell.
Not all vehicles were fitted with it, and that's where the connector to the vehicle loom hides for some reason.
I can only do 22nd/23rd. Mum is over from NZ at the moment, and flies back on the 29th. So planning on going to London for to see her off.
I could also probably do this weekend - 15th/16th as my job this week is now only 4 days.