Gilbertd wrote:

It won't as it only has two outputs, left and right. The front/rear fade and sub was all done in the DSP amp.

Not quite... Only 2 outputs are used on the DSP systems - but the head unit between DSP and non-DSP is identical. If it powers up and can't talk to the DSP amp on the control wire, then it goes into normal mode and drives all 4 outputs and controls all the audio internally.

Presuming the 1999 Hoppy has is the later one with the alpine head unit, not the earlier Clarion head unit - then you should be able to put one in from a DSP system and get all 4 speakers working and the steering wheel controls. Assuming the wire is there in the loom from the steering wheel to the radio.

If you go the android route, then the steering wheel controls (when wired in) work without adapter box - as they are programmed in the unit.

It's for the rear footwell light that goes under the overhang of the center console in the rear footwell.

Not all vehicles were fitted with it, and that's where the connector to the vehicle loom hides for some reason.

I can only do 22nd/23rd. Mum is over from NZ at the moment, and flies back on the 29th. So planning on going to London for to see her off.

I could also probably do this weekend - 15th/16th as my job this week is now only 4 days.

Earlier BECMs (especially with the 1st generation RF receivers) when they got swamped with data on the RF line would continuously trigger the locks and that's what causes the motors to burn out on the early vehicles - later BECMs had it programmed into them where after a certain amount of triggers, it would stop actuating the locks to prevent the motors burning out.

On earlier vehicles upgrading the RF receiver to prevent the spurious RF constantly triggering the BECM sorts it aswell... though as we know LR charge a pretty penny for the later receiver... though luckily we now have an option at less than a third of what Land Rover asks, which is a plug and play solution ;) check out my website for more info :)

Dancing locks isn't superlocking - it's an intermittent microswitch in one of the front latches triggering it to lock the doors.

Hmmm... Maybe the GEMS ones are slightly compatible... can't say I've ever tried it though...

EDIT - it does say in the extended app description that it's compatible with US spec P38's...

The ELM bluetooth units are unfortunately all but useless on P38's, other than the Thor petrol, where it will talk to the engine ECU and that's about it - maybe the gearbox ECU too... the rest are LR proprietary protocols.

Even on the Thor ECU, you can only read/clear fault codes and view live data - you can't do useful things like resetting the adaptive values though...

6.5K should be a fairly pure white - with maybe a hint on the bluer side.

Most of the boy racer 'cool' HIDs are up around the 8000/10000K mark which has the really distinct blue tinge to the whole light output

The only dates I have available in September are the 22nd/23rd, and the 29th/30th.

Though as I only have 5 days work in September at the moment, if I get something come in for later in the month, I'm going to have to take it.

Did mine years ago. They just push on

It's not the idler pulleys or the tensioner on his one - we swapped them all the other week with spares that I had to try and eliminate the sound.

The only thing that really sounded a bit manky was the alternator (crude stethoscope whilst spinning things individually with the belt off).

Looking at your pics - mine has the same moisture on the starter motor... so not 100% sure where it could be coming from either - I figured valley gasket at the rear, but haven't gotten around to poking my USB endoscope camera down there to have a look yet!

If you're getting air blowing out of the exhaust port when the compressor is running, then either the diaphragm solenoid isn't working as it should (though they seem pretty reliable), or the diaphragm itself is faulty. It's a fairly common thing for it to fail, usually the rubber perishing.

Can get new ones and replace it fairly easily

6552 on the evap sensor doesn't sound right....

On mine, (I looked at it the other day as I was seeing what other faults were logged) with the AC running, it cycles between about 7 degrees, and then will drop to about 4 degrees - which is when the HEVAC switches the compressor off to prevent the evaporator freezing over. When it hits degrees, it clicks back on and start dropping again.

If your evap sensor isn't showing that, then something isn't working quite right!

I took mine back, and they had a look at it again whilst I was away working and on holiday.

It turned out that one of the valve/spring combinations in the valve pack was backwards. The guy said that he followed his overhaul manual to fit it all, but when comparing it to another valve body, the spring/valve were in the other orientation... I'm not surprised - the number of things I find in RAVE that don't match what's physically in the car has ceased to surprise me.

I picked it up when I got back from holiday and she drives like a champ again now.

I'd be up for a set. I made some awhile ago... but found after started cutting it that they'd sent me 20mm, not 30mm... And they don't stick in the bumpstops very well! Been meaning to get a 30mm set at some point, but still haven't got around to it.

Yeah, if cluster has lower mileage than BECM you will get ODOMETER ERROR and if you resync it, the cluster will update to the higher BECM mileage.

If the cluster has higher mileage, then it will automatically update the BECM with no warning when the ignition is turned on.

Swapping the whole board will swap the mileage chip too... It's soldered to the main PCB.

Either you need to desolder/remove the mileage chip, or the faulty MOSFET and swap them over... Either swapping the MOSFET off the spare board onto the original one, or swapping your mileage chip off the bad board to the replacement one and then refitting that to the gauges..

If you swap the whole board without swapping the mileage chips then you risk adding unwanted mileage to your vehicle, which would then require a trip to me to reset them both :(

More than likely.

Either replacing the MOSFET, or swapping the mileage chip onto another cluster PCB so you don't lose that would work to sort it out.

I don't know what my work schedule is like for September/October yet, but I am sure there will be at least one weekend in there which is free to do an Autumn Camp :)

To me it just seems a bit lost to do a workshop weekend for 3/4 people when previously we've had 7/8 and it has been a good gathering. I've got stuff I need to crack on with on the 98 to get it even somewhere near being ready to MOT and sell...

Let me update this in a few weeks once I start to know what work I've got coming up over the next couple of month, but maybe early October before it gets too cold we can do something and properly have a few beverages in OB's honour.

I'm not 100% sure whether it is worth actually running it as a Summer Camp this year if there are only a couple of people coming.

I don't really have much on the agenda for my RR - the next biggest project for me will be fitting the factory winch tray once I've sorted a winch out and got hold of the cover from the company I sent it back from Singapore with.

Otherwise, I'm pretty much just going to be wanting to work on my other P38s which are restoration projects.

The Summer Camp idea makes sense if there's a whole group of us as it a) gives a chance to mingle, and b) the bigger jobs like headlinings etc is a lot easier when there are 6/7 people working on different aspects of the job..

I'm happy to not bother with it if it's just 3 people, as it's not much of a gathering otherwise!