If it's saved the configuration file to your hard drive, you should be able to go to 'load configuration' in the main screen of the software ( once you've you've cleared the can't connect warnings) and then there's a selection box with 3-4cyl in it, which is click able to change selection to 5-6-8-10cyl which should then show up the configuration file it saved.
It won't automatically load it when the software starts, if you just go back into the vehicle configuration page, it will default back to the 3/4cyl default options
I'd second the PAC SWI-RC.
Ran it with my JVC head unit for a good few years. As Nick says, it's pretty much instantaneous. No noticeable delay at all. Worked with my 2001 Vogue steering wheel, easily programmable.
The MAF reading is well off then.
The Nanocom reports back in Kg/Hr, and on mine it will sit about 20-25 at normal idle. If you're seeing 90 at idle, then that will be where your ratio to TPS fault is coming from.
90g/sec if being read on another scanner (the ELM ones read 6/sec from memory) works out to be 324 kg/hr which is off the scale.
I would start by checking the MAF wiring back the ECU (for high resistance) as it's cheaper than a new MAF straight away - and if that checks out, then I'd be looking at swapping the MAF.
Rave shows the values for MAF as being:
At Idle...................... 20 kg/hr (5.5 g/s) +/- 3 kg\hr (8.3 g/s)
At 2500 rpm............... 61 kg/hr (16/9 g/s) +/- 3 kg\hr (8.3 g/s)
At 3000 rpm............... 90-100 kg/hr (25-27.8 g/s)
The at 3000rpm was from an AULRO post - so are you sure your 90 reading on Nanocom wasn't when it was hitting 3K rpm?
What are the live values for the TPS, MAF, IACV etc?
IF the LPG software saved a config file to the laptop, then you can re-load it offline by going into 'load configuration' and then selecting the 5-6-8-10 cyl option, and then it should show the saved config file.
I'd test the TPS with a multimeter. Is the MAF a genuine Bosch one, or has it been replaced with aftermarket?
Have the adapative values been reset?
What are the fuel trims saying?
If the LPG is coming to life some of the time, then I wonder if there is another break in the crispy loom...
The IACV is different to the GEMS style, as it uses an elctromagnetic force a (couple of coils effectively with a spindle in the middle) which it varies to hold the valve part in the right place.
It does get crudded up, and you should be able to feel the sprung splingle move freely when twisting the IACV by the body. If it's not moving, or not moving freely, then definitely needs a clean. I spray carb cleaner into them and then watch as it runs black out the other side as it dissolves the carbon and oil buildup.
Once it's all clean and the internal valve part moves freely, it should behave again. It could be the reason it won't idle happily.
Throttle... obvious one would be to make sure throttle cable isn't binding - but the fact it's coming up with a fault to me says it's worth pulling the TPS and checking on a multimeter to see if there's a place in the track it drops out.
I gave mine a power wash on the underside, but there is definite evidence of surface rust on bits of the chassis and rear axle - so i think I'll have to get under there at some point with a wire brush and some hammerite or waxoyl or something along those lines...
I've got a couple of battery covers sitting somewhere... none of which actually on my RR...
I fixed the flasher on my stalk - I got sick of trying to flash and have them latch on! the first time I tried to fix it, it lasted all of about 3 operations - but this time it seems to still be lasting...
Nice looking RR though - If you can't find lamps for the switches anywhere, then I probably have a few kicking about if I know how many of which colours you need, I can dig through and find some working ones in my bag of old lamps from switches that I've LED converted..
It did take us 2 days to do the engine swap... Granted it would be quicker if we did it again, given a few of the tips like removing engine mounts and lowering everything to get to the annoying bell housing bolts.
Bolts/sockets - I use electrical insulation tape. Usually a bit stuck across the top of the bolt head, which when pressed up inside the socket, it gives enough extra stick/resistance to stop the bolt from dropping out. Not 100% effective, but a bit less permanent than superglue.
I've just loaded up my version of the Zavoli software, and by default it will show only 3/4 cylinder options, with no ECU connected.
I can go back in to the main menu and load a previous configuration which is 5-6-8 cylinder, and then go back into the vehicle options and it then shows 8 cylinders.
If you haven't already saved a 5-6-8 cylinder file (which you probably won't have if you've never had it connected) then it won't let you (that I can see) make a 5-6-8 cylinder config.
However if you were to be able to connect to the ECU, then it would download the current settings from the ECU and it would show up in the vehicle settings as being an 8 cylinder install.
Have you ever had it connected to the ECU? Silly question, but the USB-serial cable that's used to connect to the ECU... have the correct drivers been installed for it? Windows sometimes installs generic USB-serial drivers, but they need to be the actual ones that come with the software.
I don't have any spare bolts, sorry. Mine is only held in with one bolt aswell, it would have been 2, but one decided it was going take a dive down the back of the engine somewhere about midnight as we were getting nearly finished, so we left it with one in there! from memory, they are standard M6 thread about 12mm long though so should be easy to source locally.
Looks like I'll need to order up another oil filter soon then as I'll be passing 500miles this coming week... V8 Dev didn't mention anything about it (to be fair I haven't asked yet either as I knew it was going to be a bit of a stretch in time before receiving the engine and getting it fitted.) But if I try and do the oil change this week, or next weekend before I go away again for work, then it will be fresh for when I get back..
Tony... yes, the CT clamps, I think would be far better - but as you say, sizing is the fun bit... I've found a couple on eBay which have clamp sizes and a table for their minimum/maximum diameters, and an application size range. Being as they work on the OD of the pipe to be clamped, I'll have to get a cheap set of calipers and measure the different sizes of hose I have (luckily only 2 sizes!) and then can do a count of how many of each size I need.
Mileage/economy: 22mpg (UK MPG, not US!) works out at about 12.8L/100km
Today - got to see if I can extract the drivers blend motor as I think the pot is dodgy in it, (I am sure I've previously cut that duct so should be possible without removing the dash!) and then get it all back together and tested, before I head out this afternoon and go pick up a bigger diesel intercooler which came in one that we stripped years ago, but had a split in it, so a mate of a mate fixed it for me :)
Then need to try and cut my nav unit box down a bit more so it fits nicer in the dash space, and then give the girl a bit more a a clean as the quick power wash yesterday got rid of a fair bit of surface crud under the vehicle, but still needs a proper going over!
Actual, real world experience. It's the machine that I actually used to connect to and talk to my LPG ECU in the RR.
I have other machines with 32bit windows 7, and one old Dell laptop with window XP 32bit aswell, as some other software I use doesn't like 64bit - but LPG software or the drivers for the USB cable to connect to the ECU itself have never been an issue.
I took it to London last weekend - about 180 miles return from home.
Economy.. I reset the trip computer before leaving and by the time I got to London, I saw 22mpg on the dash..
Coolant and oil leaks... there are still some oil drips on a couple of the sump bolts - so I might again remove the spring washers on those bolts (all the stainless bolts came with spring and flat washers. and maybe a bit of some gasket goo on them too to try and seal them up. The dipstick hasn't dropped, so it's not pissing oil out anywhere.
Coolant... mmm... the bolt on the front seems to have sealed up, I'll have to try and see when it's running, but I think that is now sealed. The run to London still had it losing coolant, though I didn't top it up for the return trip and it looked about the same level in the tank, but it's definitely leaked some as there are still signs of fresh drips on the underside. I think some of it is from the hose clamps on the RHS of the engine where the heater core and LPG plumbing join up, so I've tightened the clamps again to see if that stems the tide.
I'm thinking I need to do a count up and replace them all with constant tension clamps, like the ones that the vehicle came with, and then that might see a few more potential leaks solved
Otherwise, it seems to be running OK - I get some weird rattles and grumbles at times - but I don't know where they are coming from as they sound the same as some of the noises I was getting before the engine swap...
As far as the engine goes though... it seems to be running pretty well. I'm up to about 260 odd miles on the run in at the moment, and have another nearly 230mile round trip to do for work on Sunday night/Monday afternoon - so should be hitting 500 miles this coming week... Should I do the oil change after 500 miles, or wait until closer to 1000?
I have been busy working on things for other people too... stripping door latches, so I can get a few more rebuilt, working on HEVAC units, a heater box, stripping window switchpacks for repair, and also pulling the interior of my own one apart a bit to do a few bits and pieces - like swap the HEVAC front panel from the fake rubbery/plastic wood to a genuine wood one which came on a HEVAC that I acquired from somewhere as a faulty one! That and fixing my fan speed knob as it wasn't catching every 'click' when turned...
Also swapped out the wooden surround for the instrument cluster from the one that looks like genuine wood, for one that is definitely 100% wood, and some chrome gauge surrounds which I which I've had sitting around for awhile aswell.. so will see how it looks when I get it all back together tomorrow...
Again on my circa 2008 Zavoli system... But I have no issue running the software on my laptop, which is Windows 7 Professional, 64bit or connecting to and communicating with the LPG ECU.
I think you should be looking for something in the vehicle that's causing it rather than the machine you are trying to connect to it with at the moment.
I know XP/32bit is sometimes better or needed for some things, but using the USB cable, no problem on 64bit windows 7
Generally with dropbox if you share a link, then it's just for the file(s) that have been shared
Re: Zavoli software.. I'll have a look and see what versions I have, but I am sure I use the later V6 versions of software on my older (circa 2008 - pre OBD) ECU with no problems. The version I use is 6.0.7.326
The options for the newer ECU's like auto adapting from OBD etc are all visible, but greyed out, so you can't select them if they aren't applicable to the ECU connected.
Edit: Other versions that I have of Zavoli software are:
6.0.3.x
Regal (E)
4.0.6.133
4.9.3
I need to put my LED lamps back in and see if I can get the cutoff looking a bit better... I'm sure it's not going to be perfect, as I've measured the light output next to a normal H4 - and it's close, but a bit wider beam angle that the halogen equivalent.
I think with a bit of tweaking of the focus it will give a good enough beam pattern where it's not going to spill over on the other side of the road and dazzle other drivers - unlike the first set of LED lamps I tried!
I thought I recognised that head....
Don't worry... it got new plugs! ;)
I don't think too much of it was smoke either... well, apart from the burnoff from the manifolds... I think (hope) most of it was steam, because it was freezing cold at 1am when we started running it in!
From what Nick was saying, it sounded pretty good at break in speed and the lifters didn't rattle for very long!
There was more cursing from me when underneath it undoing various bolts - and having sh*t dropping in my eyes... was thinking I should have washed it off underneath before starting - but figured it would be just as dirty by the time I got to the workshop anyway!
Hi Tony,
I think that they would have use new bolts, or at the very least new sealing washers. It didn't look like the drop was coming from above onto the sump bolts - so I think it was probably just seepage from the bolts themselves. I'll be going around again to check them all when I'm next under it (probably tomorrow!)
I still haven't had the chance (or enthusiasm) to look at the front cover bolt - but that is what I'm going to attempt to do tomorrow. I'm tempted to just pull the pump and change the gasket anyway, just to be sure.... or do I try the bolt, seal it, use another flat washer instead of the spring and see what happens on a short test drive?
I'm still going through my pictures of the old engine, so will put them up soon, but for anyone interested (and who has a spare 15 minutes... then here is the link to the timelapse video of the engine install...
Marty
The BPR6ES fit on my heads...
However the old set from my old engine/heads were the smaller socket on them... they were BCPR6ES - I'm guessing the same thing but with the smaller socket head..
I use NGK BPR6ES on my Thor aswell, and they seem to run fine, both on Petrol and LPG.
I haven't used Champion plugs in ages.. think they may have been in mine when I first bought it, but never since!
Gap - I used the standard gap of the NGK'S on my Thor.. the manual says to not gap them and leave them as standard out of the box. I checked my new ones and they were all just under 0.9mm from memory