Not without putting it in an EKA situation I wouldn't think.

The way I would do it... lock it with the remote, and then unlock it with the key in the door. Normally you would need the EKA to get it started.. then try entering it with the Nanocom, and see what happens. If it doesn't work, you can still hit 'unlock' on the remote and as the remote is still in sync, the BECM will see that, unlock, and should return to normal operation.

That to me is the only way with the smallest chance of something going sideways - without putting it in a full EKA lockout situation and hoping for the best...

I found how to ban them, and have done so.

There are a few other usernames in the list that I don't recognise as active members too, so might be worth having a look through them at some point and weeding out other potential spam accounts?

Just did my first bit aswell...

User JeckeNam posted in 'oily bits' about being able to view the latest Jack Reacher movie on any device... just click the link....

As much as I'm a Jack Reacher fan, and thoroughly enjoy the books (the first movie was OK overall aswell) it has nothing to do with oily bits, yet alone Range Rovers. And something tells me it was a bit of a trolling post given the stupid amount of random tags after the first bit of the post.

I've deleted the thread and just looking at banning the user.. but don't know if that's possible as Richard found the last time.

Marty

The IACV and coil packs have the same connectors on them. Coil packs are black, and IACV is grey. it's not been unheard of for them to get mixed up on reinstall as they come from the same part of the loom.. and it will cause some pretty strange things to happen. (though surprisingly it will run)

Otherwise, if the upper plenum has been off, then could it be a vacuum leak from inbetween upper/lower manifold?

No light on the gas switch.. sounds like a connection problem, or power problem at the gas ECU end. If it's the standard type of AEB changeover switch, then I think they must use a serial link or something similar, to control all the LED's and the input from the changeover switch. So failure of that is possibly a bad connection.

Is there diagnostic connection to the LPG ECU still? Is it also worth checking the fuse for the power to the LPG ECU?

Interesting on the camera/scope... Sloth has a separate unit with the camera on the end, and was useful for having a poke about to see what was catching my manifold from sitting down properly...

What year P38 is it?

The SRS system uses different pin(s) in the OBD socket than the other modules in the vehicle (probably why the Hawkeye needs a separate lead to connect)

The OBD pin for the SRS is pin 14 in the socket in the footwell, and it goes straight to the SRS ECU - there are no other connectors in the chain to it - just a direct wire.

Is it worth checking the fuse for the SRS system? RAVE has it being listed as F7 on the BECM fuse box.. but I'm not 100% sure if this is the same for all model years.

Hope this helps,
Marty

I can't remember if that one was going into the waterway or not... I know it goes through the water pump, front cover, and then into the block, but will have to see if it is one that goes into the water jacket.

I'll have to see if I have Loctite 5776, pretty sure I don't - but I do have permatex thread sealant which I've used on some bits on the EAS system, and also to seal the new stub on the inlet manifold and the temp sensor - so that would probably do it if it's coming down the thread.

There is a flat washer already on the bolt, but I have some left over/spare flat washers that came in the bolt set (as they are for bolts not used on the Thor front cover) which I could swap the spring washer out for no problem.

Think I'll look at that tomorrow - I've still got the old block here so I can have a look at that to see about where the bolt goes.

Just a bit demoralizing after all the work put in so far!

LPG - I think I'm going to run it on petrol for the first while - it's not like my annual mileage is astronomical, so think that doing 500-1000 miles on petrol isn't going to break the bank! Will probably take it for a run down to London at some point once I've got the leak sorted. I'll hook the Nanocom up in a couple of days and see what the fuel trims etc are looking like - and if there are any faults showing (hopefully not!)

Thanks for the advice OB - I'll look into the bolt tomorrow now I've got the fan spanners to get the fan undone (tried with my other 36mm nut spanner and it's already bloody tight!)

Well, I need to finish plumbing in the LPG system first - still got the gas pressure/temp unit, and the vacuum takeoffs from the plenum to do. Along with the filter inline from the vapouriser

That being said, I have bigger problems at the moment... had a look underneath today to find oil drips on some of the sump bolts, and a large trail of dried coolant. I've nipped up the sump bolts, and traced the coolant trail back to one of the front cover bolts (long one that goes through water pump and timing cover) with coolant drips/stains off that.

I'd managed to leave my fan nut spanners at the workshop - but could just get to it from the bottom with a socket to give it a nip up. Fingers crossed that is all it needed, though if it's been weeping down the bolt shaft, then maybe I need to pull that bolt and put some RTV or something on it. Worst case, I guess I'll be dumping the coolant and replacing the water pump gasket. I'm sure it was all sat and sealed properly when I put it together, and all the bolts were torqued up properly.. I wonder if it's because all the stainless bolts come with spring washers and that under the head of the bolt is causing it to be able to seep out the bolt shaft.

I've just been to the workshop to grab the spanners, so at least I have the tools at home now to be able to get back in there if needed...

The downside.. the shiny new engine is already starting to look filthy (well apart from the leaks!) as it's had another couple of trips up the farm track, and it's pretty muddy up there at the moment!

Sigh... it would have been nice to make it a week without it leaking.. the coolant tank was nearly 2" below the cold line - so it can't be a small leak... considering I've only done about 50miles on it so far :(

Where did you get the refurbished unit from?

Is there anything that doesn't actually work with the older unit installed?

Ferryman wrote:

Good to hear it all went well Marty, that first turn of the key... glorious moments. Good you took your time to work out everything without cutting corners just for peace of mind, that was my remark on a tight schedule.
All best wishes to last the engine a long time, now you know what you got.
Beautyful dashlights btw!
Tony.

Hi Tony,

Thanks for the kind wishes, and also for your input. The first turn of the key was the most nerve wracking time of my P38 ownership... Mostly because it's something that I've pretty much built from scratch, and if it doesn't behave, then that's on me and my work! But I am glad that it is in and running, and can breathe a sigh of relief now (and have a bit more space in the garage!). I hope it last a long time too - just need to get out of the thinking that it could stop at any moment (like with the leaky plug on the old one!) and get some miles on it!

How is your one running now? you must have passed your break in mileage of 500? 1000? miles? I hope yours is still running smoothly and a joy to drive!

I also like the dash... it took me a long time to convert it so that it was all lit separately, but it's nice to look at at night, and somewhat more modern than the standard Land Rover green! It's a LOT brighter too!

no10chris wrote:

Bet you've got a grin like a Cheshire Cat,, well done, always a good feeling, especially if it's your first rebuild.

Cheers Chris,
The grin isn't quite there at the moment - I feel proud to have actually done it, as it's been one of the things on my 'bucket list' I guess you could say, that I have wanted to do! I was too tired on the drive home this morning to appreciate it, but I have to go out in a bit to run some errands and pick Leanne up at the station this evening, so now I am a bit more awake, I'll be able to enjoy it a bit more!!

Thank you to everyone in the forum that has offered advice, insight, encouragement, or even just had a read of this and found it interesting!
Previous experience and advice is always useful, and has helped me many times in the build of this beast! It is all much appreciated!

Also a MASSIVE thank you to Nick/Sloth for giving up his weekend (every last bit of it!) to come and give me a hand with the swap! I know others of you had offered to come and lend a hand, and that is also much appreciated. I would have taken you up on it, but it kinda happened by last minute planning, as I've been waiting for parts to arrive last week - and didn't know if everything would be here for the weekend! I also wanted to get it done as otherwise I'd procrastinate and I also need to get the old short engine back to V8 Dev... Ray didn't charge me a core charge on the old block, and I felt bad telling him that it would be a few months before he'd get the old one back again! But he was really good - so from that end I don't want to take the piss and drag it out!

My next question.... I have a bit of the LPG plumbing left to do (got all the under manifold bits done, but have a few vacuum lines to run and plumb the gas rail temp/pressure sensor and filter in still)... but how long should I leave it before getting it running on gas? should I do the first 500-1000 run in miles on petrol and then look at it once the first oil change is done, or should I just go for it and get it up and running whenever I can?

Again, thanks to all that have contributed... I'm back to getting stuck into a couple of BECM's for people this afternoon - but will attempt to get the timelapse video and also the pictures of the old engine up at some point in the next couple of days!

Cheers,
Marty

Right, well.... how do you keep a load of RR enthusiasts waiting on news of an engine install......

I'll tell you later!

Seriously though... I'll start with the bad news... we were there until just about 0430 working on it. A LOT later than I think either of us imagined, considering where we got to the night before with getting the old one out, and the new one nearly ready to go in.

However, there's a few reasons for it taking as long as it did, and none of them disastrous or catastrophic as you are probably all wondering (or hoping... because a bit of drama always makes for a better story, right?).

I think that as much as we just wanted it chucked in and working, we also both took out time with things and went over things a couple of times to make sure bits were connected, bolts were tight etc as for Nick it wasn't like his last engine swap where it was putting a known running engine in, it was something that had never run, so you want to do it right - and for me it was that too, and the fact that it's personally a big investment money wise, and I didn't want to do something to destroy it and have wasted the money! I know that might sound strange - but short of buying the vehicle, this is the single most biggest investment I've made in it as part of maintenance and keeping it going.. That and I've never installed a engine before, yet alone one that I've built up myself...

So.. to rewind a bit...

We started the day with a bit hole, and a big lump to fit back into it... Nick started off with giving the alternator and A/C compressor/PAS pump brackets a clean up, whilst I got in the engine bay and cleaned a few bits up. I'd already pulled some of the firewall foam out, and pulled some more of it out first thing.. then a wipe down of the firewall followed by replacing it with some new insulation material:

We then finished dressing the new engine - finished cleaning up the exhaust manifolds, and replacing all the studs, before bolting the manifolds on:

Before hoisting it up to get it in:

And getting it into the engine bay:

And finally sitting on the mounts and located to the gearbox:

We then set about doing up the bell housing bolts (not as hard as getting them out!) and then getting the flex plate bolts in. These were a right PITA as we had forgotten to check/slide the TQ back further to give us some wiggle room - but we manage to get it all lined up and the 4 bolts in, with some fresh loctite.

From there it was all the normal stuff of plugging the starter solenoid in, running the starter motor +ve feed, plugging in knock sensors, oil cooler lines, doing up exhaust manifold down pipes, and nuts on the engine mounts.

Moving back to the top of the engine, it was time to make a start on the plumbing for me and getting the LPG injectors in, whilst Nick was starting to attach the brackets at the front for the ancillaries.

With that done, it was on to putting in the new radiator, plumbing all that in, LPG plumbing for vapouriser, and gas feeds to the injector rails.

The LPG injectors JUST fit under the manifold... I think if they were in pairs, then it would be a piece of cake - a rail of 4 was tight. I might look at swapping them out at some point, but will get it running on gas again at some point soon first and go from there.

Didn't really get many more pictures from here, as it was getting late and were were making the push to get it finished... but from there it was getting the upper manifold on, plumbing in throttle body heater, and refitting ancillaries for me, whilst Nick was taking care of IACV and air intake side, and plugging up sensors, evaps purge valve etc.

From there with the last of the plumbing done it was on to filling it up with coolant and bleeding it out. We back filled the block and the radiator, before filling the expansion tank, and using a radiator pressure test kit to pump some pressure into the header tank and force coolant into the system and air out. We got just under 10L of coolant in this way, and kept going until we started getting some out of the bleed nipple on the radiator.

finally after final checks, it was time to start it up.. I think both of us were pretty nervous, as prior to this we had spun it on the starter before fitting the rocker covers to see if we could get oil up to the rockers etc and prime the pump..

However that hadn't worked as turning it over on the starter probably wasn't fast enough for the pump to actually suck much up, and we couldn't get the oil pressure light to go out. After a comparison on Nick's one with the fuel pump/coils disabled, we found that his pressure light would go out when cranking on the starter, but it took a long time, and his system was already full of oil and primed..

So with a bit of nerves and hoping we'd see the pressure light go out when the engine revs came up, we took a deep breath, crossed out fingers and I turned the key... after a fairly long crank we stopped as it hadn't fired up... we then thought that maybe it was still purging air through the fuel line and rail as the Bosch system is returnless and it would all be full of air...

So another deep breath and key turned again... a few more cranks and boom.. up she fired... foot on the gas up to about 2400rpm and the break in had begun! We fan it only for a minute first time before shutting straight down, as we had left the viscous fan off... on purpose, so we could hear if there were any weird noises a bit clearer than over the roar of the fan before if unlocked itself. I was watching the oil pressure light as it first fired up as I was slightly worried that it hadn't gone out when spinning over before... but I shouldn't have worried - it turned off within a couple of seconds of the engine firing.

All good, so fan back on, cover on, and ready for proper break in.

I got back in the hot seat and we prepared... fired it up again and again, straight back to 2400-2500rpm.. 20min timer on phone set and counting down.

Nick watched everything under the bonnet like a hawk as it all warmed up and check to see which hoses were getting hot etc. a couple of minutes in and shut down again as still a fair bit of burning off from one of the manifolds - and it had drank a bit of coolant out of the tank. Investigated manifold to find that it was just residual coolant from a leaky hose that we had found/replaced when filling the system... coolant top up, and then again started up and run back to 2400-2500 with the timer running.

This time we let everything get up to operating temp and to the point the thermostat opened and full coolant circulation. we got about 10 minutes in and then shut off again, as the tank level had dropped a fair bit as it had pulled coolant in/bled air out, and it was getting pretty hot in the engine bay as there's not a lot of airflow from the viscous fan down past the exhaust headers when the vehicle is parked up.

We decided best course of action was to let it cool for awhile, so we could then double check all the cooling hoses and top up where necessary. We took the time whilst it was cooling to start stripping the old engine down to see what we could find (pics of this in a separate post, later!)

After letting things cool, looking over everything - checking twice, 3 times and topping up with coolant, we fired it back up again and set the timer running... back up to 2400-2500 and again ran it with the cap off to purge the rest of the air. got it down to about 5 minutes left to run and it was getting pretty hot again, so decided to let it all cool off a bit more. We probably could have left it to go - but we were both of the 'better be safe then sorry' mentality... I hope it's ok for the cam/lifters to bed in with the start/stop - it never idled in the whole time - but trying to manage the bleeding of coolant on the P38 whilst running for 20 mins straight is a bit challenging...

Anyway - let it cool again, another coolant top up, and then fired up for the last time to finish the run it - but this time with the coolant tank cap on. Nanocom hooked up and on instrument screen, and timer running - we got to the 20min mark. and then slowly dropped the revs back to idle, to hear her at idle for the first time...

I haven't heard the engine run yet from outside the drivers seat, but Nick reckons that it's smooth as silk when it was running for break in and sound really nice. sounds pretty good at idle from inside though...

So after that, did a bit of a tidy up, closed the bonnet and took it for a spin down the track and back... it worked, it drives, and instantly feels like it's got more get up and go than the old motor..

Back from a quick up/down the track, and backed it into the workshop to tidy up tools and load up. Parked up outside, and moved the other one back in, lockup and and headed home... tired but satisfied!

Couple of pics from break in run:

Drove it home, but wasn't really paying attention to how it drove as I was so tired! I got home, parked up, had a shower and went to bed.... so Yes, I hadn't posted earlier as I was either working on it, or got home and was sleeping... No, I didn't let Nick do all the work - it's not my style... I was just a filthy from crawling around under it! No, nothing went sideways that we were pissing about with for hours, or having to bodge something because we didn't have a part at silly o'clock on a sunday night...

It took a lot longer than I had anticipated, or hoped for - but most of that was because were were being meticulous about putting it together, and checking things. We had a bit of fun getting one of the engine mounts to line up, but with a bit of persuasion it went in... that was about the most difficult part of getting the engine physically in - but it wasn't a 'oh shit, how do we fix this' moment..

I'm sure there would be a few things we would do differently if we were to do it again... I would plan on doing it over 3 days, not 2 next time - not because it's difficult, but more because there is just SO MUCH to take off and put back. And it's all the little things that add up time wise too.

But for now... that's it, she's in, she run, she's home.

I'll get a picture of the finished engine bay later today when I go down to check the fluids, hoses for leaks etc, and unpack the car. I will also post back later with pictures of the old engine when we tore that down... it's nearly ready to be wrapped up and put on the palette back to V8 Dev...

Thanks for all the thoughts and well wishes... hopefully this engine will last another 15 years... now it's new and I've been the one putting it in, it will be cared for a lot better than the old one was in it's previous life!

I'll also sift through the photos from my Gopro which was doing the timelapse of the whole thing, and make a timelapse video and put it on youtube or something, with a link to view it on here. but first, I have to go and work on some other things....

I have 2 BECM's here now that require attention, an 3rd due to arrive today or tomorrow, a couple of HEVAC screen connectors to post, and a car full of tools and an old engine block to empty out! not to mention scheduling a dash ripout for Morat, a possible diagnostics hookup for someone else fairly local, a pile of switchpacks to repair, and door latches to strip and rebuild... oh the joys! I've enjoyed being able to do some work on my own one for a change - but back to everyone else's now!

Marty

I've just been through the gopro pictures from yesterday, and deleted a load of them where there is not a lot of activity (or too much skin showing!)

Will document proceedings of today, and then see about stitching together a time-lapse video of it all...

Oldshep... I am planning on doing a bit of a clean up in the engine bay, yes... I feel it should be at least somewhat clean for at least half a day before it gets driven home!

So, a quick report from day 1 of the actual install work...

Got up to the workshop about 0830 - and started the shuffle around of vehicles and unloading all the bits. Nick arrived just a shade after 9am, and gave me a hand to finish unloading and get the engine out of the back of the RR. I then spun the wagon around, parked up and then we were ready to get started...

Here's a 'before' picture... just a touch dirty in there!

Got the bonnet lifted to the service position and then made a start:

Made pretty quick work of getting the ancillaries out of the way. Luckily as I have replaced my positive battery terminal and have a split charge system, we were able to link it to the battery in the boot, and then undo/remove the starter motor and the alternator +ve feeds from the battery clamp. Then re-connecting the one to the fuse box - so that way the vehicle would stay powered up, but we didn't have to worry about a couple of loose ends floating around!

Then got stuck into the upper manifold, and also at this time, starting to think about exhaust downpipe studs...

Fast forward a couple of hours... and all bar one of the exhaust studs had come out nicely, and then the pesky bell-housing bolts were attacked - some of them are a right pain (thanks for the tip Ferryman.. will be using that on the rebuild!) but after they were done, and the electrical connections unplugged, we were ready for liftoff:

Starting to come out:

Up and away! :

Big hole left behind!

And it's out:

Looks a bit bigger when it's out and ready for all the extras to be swapped to the new engine.

So tomorrow involves a bit of cleaning of parts, and the assemble for said parts on the new engine - ready for installing it a bit later in the day! adn then finally firing it up and hope for the best!

Marty

Yes, forgot to mention that there is a new flexplate going in too... I bought the OEM branded one from LR Direct, and it came in a blue bag :( but does have OEM printed on the sticker...

I am planning on swapping the transmission at some point in the near future as I'm sure this one had had a pretty hard life before me, so if I'm not happy with the current plate, then I'll be able to swap it again... But I just have to hope that OEM is just that.. And it's of good quality.

Thank you all for your nice comments I just hope this beast lives up to expectation and performs as well as it looks...

Ferryman, yes, I had the issue with the LPG nozzles and the bolts... Trying to get them as close to the petrol injectors, and the angles I could get the drill in at meant I couldn't quite get them at the angles to be away from the bolts. But as I had the luxury of just taking them out again, I did... Upon putting them back in I've put a bit of permatex thread sealant in there, which I bought when I was doing some bits on the EAS ages ago.. So hopefully this will seal them up nicely where they go into the manifold...

I think the install schedule should be ok... I hope.... I don't have a lot of choice as Nick will have to get back on Sunday evening for work on Monday, so I need to be able to drive home tomorrow night!! Today will be the worst with getting it all out.. If the old one can be out, and the new one dressed to be installed tomorrow morning, then I think we will be ok..

My biggest worry is exhaust manifolds, but worst case the down pipe studs will be cut off to get it out. I've got new studs/nuts so any the don't behave will be cut, drilled, and extracted, and a new one used. Other than that and the bell housing bolts, I think (hope) it should all be fairly straight forward!

Will start finding out in a few hours!

There are SOME Silver bits on it... the block, heads, water pump ;) To be fair, Orangebean is probably right.. .it's not going to take long before it all becomes somewhat of an earthen tone anyway... I went under the bonnet this afternoon to pluck out the new LPG injectors for test fitting and to figure out how I'm going to manage to fit them under there (4 pairs of 2 would definitely be better... maybe at some point in the future!) and EVERYTHING in my engine bay at the moment is dusty and dirty... I just hope that the painted bits will mean that the dust and crud will wash off a bit easier!

Unfortunately I didn't have any Hylomar for the other orifices - RAVE/Workshop manual doesn't specify using anything there at all, but figured a bit of RTV can't hurt it.. if it starts pissing coolant out from the water galleries then I'll just have to tear it back down and get some hylomar.

It's all loaded up now...

Thank goodness for EAS... as the rear/right was pretty low with a V8 lump plonked on it.. and then there's the engine crane, engine stand, tool box, all the other parts still to go on, other tools, new radiator and who knows what else... but started it up, and up she came to normal height.

I'll try and get a picture in the morning when I'm up at the workshop with it all loaded before I turf it out! It's amazing what you can fit in the back of a P38... and I only folded the small seat all the way down and back up again.. the big one is just folded down!

I'm sure there will be pictures/videos etc of the next couple of days... I just hope it all goes smoothly!

So, it's been awhile since I've updated this... mostly because I've been away for work!

But I'm back now and been trying to make some more progress... So here's the latest...

So I got back and my bits from LPG shop had arrived, so I drilled/tapped the manifold:

And then masked it for paint. This ended up only getting one coat top/bottom as it won't be seen that much - but it looks nicer than the stained cast alloy...

And then painted..

Whilst the manifold was drying, I figured it was as good a time as any to put the front cover on.. got it all attached, and used an old water pump to act as a spacer for the long bolts until my LR direct order turned up with the new pump...

You can see the cam sensor wiring bracket in this one - there was a note in the overhaul manual that I thought said it went on that bolt and had to sit parallel to the crankshaft... after fitting the sensor itself though, it doesn't go there and got moved the next day to the correct location.

Then I figured that whilst I'm on a roll, I'd get the sump on.. So flipped it over

Fitted the oil pickup/strainer on:

And then the sump - with gasket and RTV in the locations shown in the manual:

With all bolts done up to correct torque, and in correct sequence as shown in RAVE

Then flipped it back upright;

Next day, my LR Direct goodies arrived... including the water pump, which came in a nice box:

Shiny and new... even with the company logo - I presume laser etched - on it... Don't think you'll find that in a blue box unit...

And then fitted to the engine:

And then refitting the cam sensor and figuring out where the pesky bracket should actually go...

Today's task was to get the valley gasket, and the lower intake manifold fitted... So started with the RTV and the rubber end seals:

I ended up putting a very thin smear of RTV around all of the intake openings to try and make sure there's a proper seal - and especially around the water outlets, as don't really want that leaking...

Then got the valley gasket in, lower manifold on, and torqued - again in correct sequence - and the end plates on/bolted up aswell

I then did some mocking up with the rocker covers and upper manifold on to see about the clearances for LPG injectors under the bananas... it looks like they might just fit...

I've also now cleaned a spare set of petrol injectors, and fitted new O-rings. I am about to go back to the garage to take all the top bits back off, and get it packaged up and hopefully in the vehicle... as tomorrow is D-Day...

I've got Sloth very kindly coming up to give me a hand to rip the old one out tomorrow and get the extra bits needed from my old engine off, and then get this one installed. I am optimistically hoping that the old one comes out easily enough and we get the parts stripped off it, and onto this one in good time, and maybe even get this one ready to drop in...

I'm not in a major rush - as long as it's done by Sunday afternoon!! I've got new engine mounts, and nuts, exhaust downpipe gaskets and new studs/nuts aswell - so the plan will be to remove the engine with the headers intact and then remove the heat sheilds/manifolds out of the vehicle, and re-attach them to this engine and install complete...

The main bits which are being re-used are the coil packs/HT leads (as they were brand new Bosch coils a couple of years ago, and Magnecore HT leads) The alternator and PAS/ AC Compressor brackets, and the pumps/alternator themselves. Idler pulleys and belt were new not so long ago too, but I have a new tensioner to go on. Also re-using the fan/VC though I might look at replacing these as matter of course...

Other bit being done at the same time... New Nissens radiator, new genuine thermostat... new top hose, bottom hose, water pump hose. New LPG vapouriser, and some new insulation for the firewall..

Going to be a busy weekend - but fingers crossed on Sunday afternoon it will fire up and get run in...

I got given a Gopro for Christmas, so will be taking this to the workshop, as it will let me take timelapse photos... so will do a timelapse of the removal/install... and a video of the first startup...

Back on Sunday, with hopefully some good news!

Marty

If cost isn't the most stringent thing, then you could get a spares/repair one and send it to Clarion to be serviced..

I think they still do them, and is £99 for the service - which includes a new LCD screen, removing the code, and adding an auxiliary input...

Part of the reason I'm going with installing the injectors under the manifold is for neatness - and to keep the pipes shorter.
the injectors I'm going to have in there are pretty much brand new Hana 2001+ Gold (rails of 4x each).

The other reason is because on the Thor engines at least, there isn't a LOT of space at the back of the engine and keeping the space free to be able to get hands down to access the coils/HT leads will be a bonus. At the moment, if I want to do anything much I have to take the plenum off anyway - and given it's the air intake duct and a bunch of bolts, it's not that much of a big deal to get under there if needed.

When my injectors/LPG system was first installed, they never made nice mounting brackets for the injectors, so when I swapped out the slowly failing Zavoli injectors the replacements pretty much sit above the coil packs, and at times rattle on the firewall, which is rather annoying to hear the clicking all the time!

My filter is mounted to the side near the reducer (have a new one of them to fit aswell... figured why not, since so much else is being replaced), and then the plan is to have the gas line split at the back of the engine, and then feed each LPG rail of injectors. I've also got 2 other 12mm outlet nozzles to fit to my injector banks, so thinking of doing a balance pipe at the front of the engine, between the 2 banks of injectors too.

Out of interest - what setting in the ECU is best for the Hana injectors? I think I have them set as the same Zavoli injectors that were in the vehicle at the moment - but have option for Matrix aswell.

My Zavoli system (based on the generic AEB ECU) will beep at me until I press the button to cancel it when it's run out and switched back to petrol.

If I am under load and it suddenly cuts out (I think my sender is a bit sticky, so it goes from 2 bars to empty!) then I can get a bit of a lurch as it switches back, but there is no stop/restart. If I notice it's getting low and switch back to petrol manually, or if it changes back when it's not under load then it's hardly noticeable.

I've just drilled/tapped my inlet manifold for the LPG hoses, so my next task is to mask/paint the manifold and then also to strip the injector rails off the vehicle and work out the mounting of them... I am tempted to buy pairs of injectors to make the hose runs even shorter, but it's an additional expense which is probably not necessary at the moment, unless I can't get the rails of 4 to sit/mount nicely.

Personally... I would get a second opinion. I have never heard of a Rover V8 losing compression on all but 1 cylinder. down on a few, yeah as they get older and wear, but in my mind it would have to be a catastrophic failure to be that bad...

Also take into account in a diagnosis that most garages seem to hate P38's, and to them all they know about Rover V8's is that they will always fail, and in their eyes it's always the block.. or a liner slipping.. when a lot of the time it isn't actually that bad. Even if it was a HG failure, then it would have he to have failed between a LOT of cylinders to lose that much compression on that many cylinders.

I could be completely wrong, but something just sounds fishy about it to me.

Ahhh.. the good 'ol rover block failing strikes again....

Surely if it's lost compression on all but 1 cylinder then that points more to the piston rings or valves in the heads not sealing?

It would have to be a REALLY fucked block to cause loss of compression on 7 of 8 cylinders...