Gilbertd wrote:
Looking at the dark side, it turns out it was a faulty engine ECU......
Except that he's posted back and it's coming up with a bunch of codes again...
So is it out of KEYCODE lockout now, and are you able to get the EKA entered and get it to start?
Really random thought... do you need to complete 'Drive Cycle C' for it to be happy?
From RAVE's section on OBD etc:
--> Drive cycle C:
- Switch ignition on for 30 seconds.
- Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F).
- Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes.
- Perform 2 light accelerations (0 to 35 mph (0 to 60 km/h) with light pedal pressure).
- Perform 2 medium accelerations (0 to 45 mph (0 to 70 km/h) with moderate pedal pressure).
- Perform 2 hard accelerations (0 to 55 mph (0 to 90 km/h) with heavy pedal pressure).
- Cruise at 60 mph (100 km/h) for 8 minutes.
- Cruise at 50 mph (80 km/h) for 3 minutes.
- Allow engine to idle for 3 minutes.
- Connect TestBook and with the engine still running, check for fault codes.
NOTE: The following areas have an associated readiness test which must be flagged as complete,
before a problem resolution can be verified:
• catalytic converter fault;
• Evaporative loss system fault;
•HO2 sensor fault;
•HO2 sensor heater fault.
I wonder if you need to find a bit of road that you can do that drive cycle on and see if it will then reset the codes itself...
So, another installment... Hopefully everyone isn't too bored of it already, as hopefully in the next couple of days there will be pictures of a shiny short engine being posted up...
Today's task was round 3 of cleaning the front cover, and I think I'm now at a point where once it's dry, I will look it over and then probably mask it all up and get it ready for painting. I could probably go another round of cleaning, but most of the staining is now so ingrained, that it will just get covered up by the paint anyway. That and I want to start getting stuff painted and ready for being able to actually reassemble - as I have a new front crank seal, pressure relief valve O-rings, and the likes to go on. I need to source new O-rings for the oil cooler lines, and a new oil pressure switch, I considered removing the bung above the pressure switch and re-sealing it, but it's covering an unused port on the P38, so I figure I may aswell just be done with it and paint over the whole thing as-is.
So some progress pics...
So from there I moved onto cleaning the rocker cover I had started, (didn't get any pics of this yet) which the inside is nearly there - it will need another pass of degreaser tomorrow.. and then I'm going to attack the exterior of the cover with the wire wheel and then that will be ready for masking and paint. I've got the second one to start cleaning, and that's on the list for tomorrow too.
Next up was the lower inlet manifold which had been given a wire brush over yesterday, so today it got a dip in the degreaser and a scrub down...
It's now drying, and I've marked out where I think the LPG nozzles need to go.. I then laid the fuel rail back on top, and revised a couple of them! I'l trying to decide if I drill/tap the manifold before painting it, or wait until I've ordered them and tap it first, then paint it. I'm leaning towards drilling it after painting - only as I have the time at the moment to paint parts, but part of me says that if I drill/tap and install the nozzles, then I can just mask them off and I'll get a nicer paint job.
Also, I am trying to decide if I remove the outlet spout at the front of the manifold as it's pretty rusty (it goes to the throttle heater) and then getting a brass one and then drill/tap the top of the manifold. Or do I just leave it? thoughts?
Finally, a couple of pictures of the upper inlet manifolds - got the first coat of paint on these today aswell, on the top at least - I need to do the underside still, which will probably be the first task tomorrow, so I don't get two coats on the top, and nothing on the bottom! I still need to drill/tap the upper manifold for the pressure points for the LPG system, but I'm thinking that I might be able to use the spare port at the end for the one to the sensor, and then just need to tap the one for the vapouriser.
Will see what I can get done tomorrow... hopefully a nice big pallet or crate will show up...
Marty
That is music to my ears... I love the sound of a finely crafted piece of engineering at work!
I could do another thread with some of my model railroad engineering that I've worked on in the past (mostly animating models that were never designed to 'acutally' work.. but I'm not going to hijack Ferryman's thread with my links...
I'm about to post some more pictures of what might turn out to be Rover V8 engine porn, but maybe after that I'll put a thread up about my other hobby that I haven't even looked at in about 5 years now!
Marty
How do you mean the advanced lockout state?
Looking under the manifold, as it is sitting in that picture, the only things missing are the engine wiring loom to the petrol injectors, and the petrol injectors themselves.
My plan is to whip the LPG injectors out of my one and install them in there before even fitting the new engine, so they are all there and pretty much plumbed in. (partly to make sure they fit!)
On a lot of the newer LPG installations, you have the LPG loom that runs to the petrol injectors, and there a couple of extra plugs/sockets in there, so the petrol loom feeds into the LPG loom, and then the LPG loom then has a new connector for the petrol injector. My setup when it was installed has all the LPG injector pickup wires and feeds back from the LPG ECU to the petrol injectors all soldered into the main engine harness, so there is just a single connector that still goes to each petrol injector, and then there is the second loom(s) to the LPG injectors.
I think that it should all fit under there, but I will make sure I do a test-fit to make sure there is clearance for the wiring, injector rail, and hosework, to make sure that there won't be any kinks in the LPG feed hoses. At the moment, my injectors are mounted at the back of the engine bay, so the feeds all run out the back of the manifold (been like that since it was installed in 2008) but the throttle response is a bit slow, and I put that down to the length of the hoses. Besides, if I can make it a nice and neat install, with just the extra gas feed hoses running around the back, (and coolant lines to the vapouriser) then it will be nicer, neater, and hopefully better response... especially as it will have a high-torque cam in there aswell...
It's not that much of a pain to get the upper manifold off if needed to get to the injectors... but since they are all pretty much new, they should be good for awhile!
Got the first coat of paint on the front of the upper manifold this morning, and a second coat on the throttle body... will probably give a first coat to the bananas a bit later, as i'm still cleaning the front cover!
Well, I haven't had the indignity of having to go and buy diesel so far...
Sloth recommended me to some 'No Nonsense' degreaser, from Screwfix... £5.99 for 5L of the stuff, so decidd to give it a whirl.
The good news is that unlike the first cover where one of the caps for the oil pressure relief and bypass valves had decided to seize in (reason for getting the second one), both of them came out nice and easily on this one - so no stress this time! However, it arrived and was absolutely ripe... I hate to think what the oil leaks were on the engine it came off, but it was completely sludged up on both the inside an out. A 'before' picture of what the inside looked like:
I bought a big plastic tub yesterday aswell, to be able to used as a cleaning place, which is big enough to fit the whole of the front cover or a rocker cover in and submerge it if necessary. I figured I'd see how good this stuff was (I bought 10L of it as I figured something that cheap would need a fair bit!) and just poured probably 100ml or so into the front cover and started to give it a bit of a scrub with an old toothbrush. I also chucked in the oil pressure relief valve caps, springs, and pistons into the mix to give them a scrub.
A 'during' picture
I managed to get the oil pump gear cover cleaned and the relief valve parts done, and will get a picture today of how they came out. I've also started cleaning the outside of the front cover aswell, as it was even worse than the inside... it's starting to get there, but needs another dose of cleaner and elbow grease to get it to my standards!
But as a first look of the inside after a bit of a scrub and then a rinse in fresh water:
Needless to say that for the amount of effort I actually put into scrubbing and the amount of degreaser fluid I actually used, I am totally amazed. I will have to get a couple of pictures of the other pieces I cleaned, as they came up sparkling too. I think I've found my new favorite cleaning solution... It says on the bottle to dissolve 5 capfuls in 5L of water, or for more stubborn jobs to use it neat and then rinse off.
So with that all taking shape, hopefully I'll be able to to get this part all clean today, and then mask it off for painting aswell.
Speaking of painting, I got impatient and wanted to get something painted, so even though the conditions probably weren't the best, I decided to give the throttle body the first coat, and then brought it into the house overnight to be in the warm, dry climate. I think it came up alright!
And as another aside, I pulled the fuel rail and injectors out of the other lower inlet manifold I have, and then re-sat the fuel rail and the upper inlet manifold back on, so I could get an ides on whether there would be space under there to fit the rails of LPG injectors when I go to do the rebuild... I figured part of my issues and general non-perfect running on gas is probably because the hose lengths are a bit longer than what is ideal, given the bunch of bananas that restrict access. I was thinking of cutting out the metal between the bananas as Morat has, but looking at it like this, I think that the injector rails should just fit under there, and then be able to have some nice short hoses, straight to the inlet manifold.
This one doesn't yet have the holes drilled and tapped for the LPG hoses, so once it's all cleaned up a bit more, I will have to look through my bits and pieces and see if I have enough of the nozzles to fit, otherwise I'll get some ordered. I also need to drill/tap the upper inlet manifold for the pressure ports to the vaporiser and the sensor, so will have to get the correct size nozzles for them aswell.
mrabody wrote:
I've replaced the passenger door latch as I assumed that was the source of the original problem, but I didn't know that key code lockout disabled central locking. I'll let it sit and give it a try. If it doesn't work, would it be possible for me to bring the BECM up to you tomorrow?
Yes, the central locking is all controlled by the BECM, and if it goes into a lockout situation where it expects the EKA to be put in, then the key in the drivers door will ONLY operate the drivers door until the EKA lockout is resolved, and then the alarm will disarm, the immobiliser will switch off, and the other doors will all unlock and respond to the key in the drivers door again, or to the remote when it's resynced.
If you have no luck, then yes, I am about at home tomorrow and will have time to hook it up for you if you want to bring it up, no problem there.
Marty
Yeah, a second front cover arrived today, as one of the pressure relief valve caps is stuck in the bore of the original one.. typically I found that after cleaning the rest of it! Luckily, the second one has had both valve caps come out, but it is absolutely filthy, so it going to need a really good clean.. thinking of soaking it in diesel, but need to a) get diesel and b) get a container that will fit the front cover in, and not get eroded by the diesel itself!
Powdercoating... I have considered it, but not sure how much it will cost, (I'm up to about £3500 so far on parts/engine and keep finding other things that I need to purchase along the way!) I'm tempted to just give them a blast with some spray paint and be done with it... the thing gets covered in dust and mud all the time anyway, but hoping that the paint will make it a bit easier to clean as the porous finish of the casting traps dirt like mad! If I can find someone who will powdercoat parts at a reasonable price, then I would consider it - especially as you say, on the rocker covers..
Rockers... I've heard bad things about aftermarket alloy rockers, and premature wear. I figured that steel ones are more likely to last a bit longer. I bought them from V8 tuner, as with the ARP studs, so figure they are worth the investment.
I've heard from V8 Developments today and the engine is ready - he's going to give me a call a bit later in the day to get my credit card details for the balance, and then it will be shipped out. So fingers crossed that in a couple of days it will be here and I can slowly get on with starting to build it. Think the first thing on the list (after taking pictures of course!!) will be to get the cam installed, as I've seen that it's easier to do this whilst standing the block on end.. Then I'll get it craned up and bolted onto the engine stand and see what else I can get done before I have to go away...
Nobody's yet noticed that the throttle body has a new heater plate on it... not that i'm planning on taking it to Siberia, but figured I may aswell start as I mean to go on and have it work at least for a couple of weeks before it gets bypassed...
Well, a bit of an update...
Been slowly spending a fair chunk of money and getting parts together for when the short engine arrives, and then I can hopefully get on with the rebuild.
Currently I have some second hand rocker gear on the way, as it's cheaper to get all that for the springs/washers/pedestals than to get all the bits individually. I have new rocker shafts, steel rockers, pushrods, tappets etc ready, along with thrust plate for the camshaft.
Heads are back as you've seen in other pictures - I have a valve spring compressor, so I can take the valve springs off, to swap them for new ones - and also renew the oil stem seals. Then the heads are pretty much ready to go. Will give the exhaust ports a bit of a clean I think aswell.
Have a replacement lower inlet manifold which I've pulled the fuel rail off and will be cleaning that up over the next couple of days to get it ready. It needs drilling and tapping for LPG ports, which I'll do aswell, so it's ready to go straight on.
Today been cleaning off the replacement upper inlet manifold, which also needs a couple of ports put in for LPG, but I need to check the sizing on them and get a couple of put in. Stripped the throttle body back aswell, cleaned all the parts on it and masked it and the inlet manifold ready for painting.
Decided to paint the top bits, and the rocker covers in a gloss black - so hopefully it will look nice when finished!
Going to call V8 Developments in the morning to see what the progress of the short engine is - though I've got a fair bit more work to do before I can actually assemble the whole thing anyway!
More pics to follow...
Welcome to the club!!
Hopefully you'll get it sorted out soon... Interested in hearing how much difference the gas flowed heads make with the high torque cam. I'm in the middle of building a replacement engine for mine and fitting a piper torquemax cam to the new engine to give it a bit more grunt low down. Not doing anything different on the heads through with regard to porting or polishing though as the budget doesn't quite extend that far!
If you have windows and mirrors working in both of the front doors, then there isn't a communication problem between the BECM and the outstations or the centre console switchpack, as they all communicate on a serial link to/from the BECM.
The central locking for the front doors are controlled by the outstation, via the serial link from the BECM, so if this is working for the windows/mirrors, then that isn't your problem.
It sounds like the BECM has gone into lockout mode - whether you can still get it open with the EKA or not will depend on if it's in a complete alarm lockout or just an EKA lockout.
If you have KEYCODE LOCKOUT on the dash then leave it alone with the battery connected until it disappears from the dash. Then you can try putting the EKA in. Note that the early ones DON'T require 4x turns to lock to begin putting the EKA in, like the later ones. I think the drivers door just needs to be locked, and then you start by turning to unlock for the number of turns of the first digit. If it doesn't work, and you know that the microswitches in the latch are all functioning as they should, then chances are it has gone into an alarm lockout, which as you have found needs the Faultmate MSV with BECM CPU module to reset the alarm lockout.
I have the equipment to connect to the BECM and reset the alarm lockout. All of the details are on my website - I try to do it for a reasonable price, as I do P38 work as a hooby outside of my normal job. That being said, I am about this week if you need it looked at, but start getting busy and away with work again next week - and then I'm off until the end of December, so won't be doing much P38 wise except on forums until I get back!
Hope this helps,
Marty
EDIT: PS - the passenger door and rear doors won't unlock on the central locking until it's out of the lockout situation (whether it need the EKA entered, or hooked up on the bench). Once it's back in a happy place then the rear doors should automatically unlock from their superlocked state, and the passenger door will start working on the central locking again. If the passenger door still doesn't unlock/lock on the central locking once whatever lockout the BECM is currently in, then chances are the Central Locking Motor in the passenger door latch has failed and not activating to lock/unlock the door.
I'll try and get a picture of it, so you can see. There is a guy up where the workshop is that does vehicle painting etc, but he'd do the whole roof aswell I would imagine.
I only noticed it the other week - and just don't want it getting too bad/rusty over the winter!
I'll post a pic back later...
I don't need a sledgehammer now though... The 20T workshop press will make any future steering box/bushings or anything else that needs a lot of force put on it can be treated to a go in the press..
Heat... Diesel heater is probably the better option.. I have installed a 16A socket for the air compressor, but my electric is metered, so diesel heater might be the way forward... between that and a big BBQ (maybe a discovery sized one?) should keep some of the chill off..
Sounds like Morat might have a competition for cleaning if MHT brings the machine polisher... Does anyone have any experience in bodywork/painting? I only ask as I've got a smallish paint chip on my roof that has started to rust underneath and could do with sanding back and a bit of a repaint. I'm useless at things like that... I feel more at home with a soldering iron (or big hammer) then with sandpaper and paint... so if anyone who's thinking of coming is willing to have a look for me, then that would be great!
Just make sure than when you go to attach the line from the tank to the engine bay that you are screwing it in AWAY from electrical looms in the vehicle... Morat will be able to sympathise with that ;-) Likewise, when I first got my RR, I found a self-tapper through part of the wiring loom... can't have made a lot of difference in my case as it had been there for 4 years before I found it... But again Morat can testify to what can happen...
Well....
I thought I'd make an official thread about it, since it has been mentioned in a couple of other topics now, and the thought of working on these beasts when it's freezing outside (and probably in the workshop) hasn't scared everyone off... rather it seems to have enthused a couple already with thoughts of just having a bigger BBQ....
I am typically heading away for 6 weeks again in November for work, and due back just before Christmas. I am also then going to be busy the first part of January with hopefully finishing off and installing my new engine, which I would like to have done before any such gathering - as that way I can then lend a hand on ball joints, or radius arm bushes and things like that. I would possibly look at swapping my ABS modulator as there will be someone to press pedals etc - but I'm happy to also do other electrical work for people, and give a general hand... doing my headlining would be great as it is getting bad now!
So on that thought - Who is interested in attending a Range Rover 'Winter Camp'? I am happy again to 'host' if you like at my workshop - as it seemed to work last time (with a couple of 'obstacles' but we got there in the end) and be somewhere central-ish between us all... though if anyone else has somewhere more suitable for working on RR's in the middle of winter, I'll be happy to travel aswell once the engine is swapped.
I still have both of my RR's inside at the moment, but the 00 is still moveable under it's own power (just - the transmission is slipping I think) and at some point I need to look at the '98 and get it started, but it should be moveable aswell with any luck - so again can probably have 2 workshop bays available... 1 at a minimum...
Show of 'hands' if you like as to who's interested, when suits, and what you'd like to try and get done?
I'm thinking towards the end of January or early February - but it will also depend a bit on when I'm working - I won't know that for awhile yet, but if we start getting some ideas together, then we can hammer out a definite plan closer to the time...
Cheers,
Marty
Looking good... I really need to clean mine!
I'll have headliner to do, and that's probably about it... I've obviously got an engine to swap, once I have the replacement all built up, but I'll be doing that separate to any Winter Camp.
I might have a crack at doing my ABS modulator, unless I've done that by then aswell....
Otherwise I'm happy to help others - I've got ball joint press kit, and now I've got the workshop press, happy to press radius arm bushes in/out. My only suggestion to anyone wanting to do radius arm bushes - but new nuts for the rear and bolts/nuts for the front as most of the time at least one of them will seize and need some help from an angle grinder...
Hmmm maybe I'll start a post about it... I can think of a few of us that need/want headlinings done... would also be able to do a bulk lot of radius arm bushed pressing in/out aswell if people wanted... and maybe a couple of ball joint swaps..