I use one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Oil-Suction-Hand-Syringe-Gun-Pump-Gearbox-Fill-Extractor-500ml-AK47 in the workshop. Extracts and fills. Gets to be a bit of a workout if using it for EP90 though.
Any fault codes reported? Nice list of things to check follows...
Air filter, MAF clean, air leaks in inlet pipe, free play in throttle cable and... IAC valve. Idle sounds a bit high. Mine (GEMS) sits around 750 hot or cold. You've got a Bosch so that might be different.
Plug leads need to be tip-top especially if you're running LPG.
Sounds like an idea Marty. I'd probably do it as a weekender anyway. Your workshop anywhere near a Travelodge or other quality hotel? 150 miles each way in a day doesn't leave very much time to actually do anything!
They tend to perish along the creases. Leaving the suspension on high is possibly pinching the hole closed. That's why, when leak checking, you test on all heights. Time for a trip under with the soapy water. Life expectancy is around 9 years tops, so yours have done well. It'd probably be worth pulling the EAS timer relay as a test when parked up to eliminate the auto levelling dropping it down. Budget for a compressor refurb as well. If you've got leaks the compressor will have had to work harder.
Only time I change mine is when I'm on sites related to my "other" interests, such as naughtytortoisesmustbespanked.com. I use Marty_Nz for those :-)
Props have been on and off a lot. Have you got the correct phasing on the UJ's? Rears should be in line, fronts about 11 o clock and 1 o clock. Mass damper on the rear diff still bolted up tight?
Damn- something else to worry about. Mine's lived in Spain, for quite a while judging from the complete lack of rot and the sun trashed interior. Guess I'll replace mine at the same time I do the BMR kit. Going to have to bleed the brakes anyway and give it a complete fluid flush.
It's probably just me but what about WYSIWYG when posting. Be nice to get some paragraphs etc straight out of the box. Perhaps also a landing page showing read/ unread as a list (like the "other place"). Or are they both here and I've just missed them?!
I think you've been ripped off Marty. They've sent you a bag of Licorice Allsorts! Have a look at the one in the bottom right of this pic:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/fb/9c/0e/fb9c0e1b67f500fa01a4d09b1f0c5a96.jpg
I don't think UK dried mud is a natural rust inhibitor. Maybe it's different from NZ mud?! I've found that when restoring old Brit stuff it's the bits where dirt has stuck in pockets that corrode faster. The dirt acts as a kind of poultice, keeping the environment warm and slightly damp and holds salts etc against the metal.
If your sensors were killed by either thermal shock or drowning, maybe while you're under there you could knock up a quick shield for them? A bit of curved stainless and an exhaust clamp would make a passable deflector. I'd have thought that there would be a lot more noise on the forums if this is a common issue on P38s though so maybe it's something else that's killed them.
Good that the problem's sorted on open loop anyway. Means that a fix is only a Postman away!
I gave you a bad steer earlier. It's the Titania (GEMS) sensors that vary resistance based on O2 content. You've got Zirconium. You're right about reference air. Here's a link to an "everything you wanted to know" about your sensors (well, the NTK version anyway)! https://www.ngk.de/en/products-technologies/lambda-sensors/lambda-sensor-technologies/zirconium-dioxide-lambda-sensor/
If truly coked, they're not really cleanable. If they look like they're bunged up with soft soot, a bath in petrol, followed by a hit from the air line might shift it. How about hitting them with a propane torch or something and measuring the resistance across them on the bench? If for some obscure reason they're failing after a short period, you'd pick that up on the bench test. Law of probabilities of 2 sensors failing in exactly the same way at the same time must be up there with a lottery jackpot win though!
Hi Marty. I've been pondering this all afternoon and kept ending up at sensors. Can you just confirm that you're only testing and faultfinding on petrol now? I've got a bit lost.
I'm no expert on the sequential lpg side- never even seen one in the flesh- so can't really help there, but experienced similar baffling outputs on the petrol side on my GEMS idling ultra rich when one sensor failed and I found that the PO had kludged the wiring so that left sensor was feeding right bank and v.v. Out of interest what does it run like when held on open loop after an adaptive reset?
Maybe time to reset this problem? The only issue is an occasional clicking/ vibration through the pedal at low speeds. In addition you've replaced the accumulator. If the pump wasn't working you'd know it! As Gilbertd says, you'd need 2 feet on the pedal and a few prayers to your chosen gods to stop. You're lucky to have such a quiet pump! I suspect that the occasional clicking/ vibration is an over-sensitive ABS sensor. Maybe the air gap on one of your wheels is a little large. I have to drive a fairly extreme off road track to my workshop and when driving down the hill slowly, trailing the brakes gently, the ABS will always kick in on a particular pothole even though that wheel is not close to locking. I don't actually think you have much to worry about. To get used to what your ABS feels like when it operates, find a muddy lane, bit of grass or whatever and step on the brakes at slow speed. I bet you'll find that's what your noise is.
Flying south to join the remains of my garage which emigrated in the storms on Wednesday. Any previous endorsement I may have made for Machine Mart pop-up garages is now withdrawn!
I'm already feeling the urge to fly south Gilbertd wrote:
There's a few familiar names on here now, we're starting the migration......
Updated in mid 99 apparently. If you have 4 wheel traction control, you have the later system
There's a possibility that it could be the infamous Brake Modulator failure from the symptoms you describe. Have a read through the 40 or so pages on http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/15632-please-read-all-p38-owners-up-mid-1999-brake-modulators.html
As an aside, cos I'm too lazy to fix the mounts on my EAS compressor, I can also hear that running when I drive so I can enjoy double paranoia listening to how often that cuts in as well as the ABS pump. A symphony of aural feedback!
