Main Dealers like to charge around £40 to do that for you...
Key in the lock sync as described by Tony works on all ages of car, and is the fallback when it won't sync by button pushing
I use a local independent mobile guy. He's so thorough that I usually end up looking at my watch and grinding my teeth, but he charges me a flat rate so it's his time.
I get a purge, nitrogen fill and leak tests (he has a sniffer and a high frequency stethoscope as well as just waiting for a pressure drop) as well as a meticulously weighed refill of refrigerant and lube oil which he insists I watch!
As well as my battered condenser I had a pinhole in a pipe in the same place as Sloth and replaced the dryer as I didn't know how long the system had been open to air.
Used a Nissens condenser. Took some mods to the mountings to get it to fit though.
Ultimax (I think)
Updated picture links. Now working.
gordonjcp wrote:
I've done it before, although I had to be pretty brutal with the "scrap" parts.
Thanks for that Gordon. Got me thinking and I had a flash of inspiration.
I can hot knife the broken back plate to get the good light unit out (once you can get right into the ball joints, warm and lube them they will pop off OK.
The unit with the good back plate I can go in "delicately" through the lens. Once that's out of the way I can hot knife the reflector out of the way and get to the ball joints.
Voila!
Gave the one with the mud splattered and burned on reflector a good soak this morning and can report back that biological washing powder solution is amazingly effective- at removing all the silver from the reflectors.
Good thing it was a scrap unit...
I found EBC very squeally on light braking and the dust they generated was excessive. No issues with their braking performance, except requiring a bit more pedal pressure when cold.
Mintex discs and pads all round on both of mine now. Lovely pedal feel, no squeal and have never had any issues with fade. Still get dust though, but I guess that's the price to pay for driving a 2 tonne car enthusiastically.
gordonjcp wrote:
The lamp assembly ought to pretty much just pop off its balljoints, with a little persuasion.
That's what I thought with the one in the picture :)
Is that ought to, as in you've done it Gordon, or ought to as in theory?
Can't remember exactly. It was back in 2016. Around a week I think.
Many of you will remember my rather impatient removal of a headlight with a cracked lens and rusted fittings from a while ago:
The time has come to repeat a similar process, with less collateral damage, on another car.
My question is, how do you separate the lens and reflector unit from the black plastic mounting moulding?
I have a complete light with a good lens/ reflector but a broken mounting and a headlight with a mounting moulding with all of its bolts and adjusters intact but a knackered reflector. All I need to do is marry the two good bits.
Any advice welcome!
Last time I bought a kit from Russell, he was
http://www.rangeroversolutions.com/
email: rangeroversolutions@bigpond.com
Contact information.
Phone. 07 40941450 International. +61740941450
Mobile. 0418882354
E-mail. rangeroversolutions@bigpond.com
Postal.
P.O Box 237 32 Gadd close.
Mt Molloy Julatten
Queensland. 4871 Queensland. 4871
Australia. Australia.
Redraptor141 wrote:
... if I’m going to be dropping a grand on a LPG conversion I might as well get that too!
You won't get much of an LPG conversion with new components for a grand!
Message LPGC on here. He's the guy to discuss LPG conversions, options and costs with. Although a lot of us have them, maintain them and we have a great knowledge pool, he installs them for a living.
Gilbertd wrote:
Isn't the cam sprocket different too?
Tis- will need the GEMS sprocket to go with the GEMS cam sensor.
If you can mod the CPS mount on the Thor block to take a GEMS sensor, then it should just be a case of bolting all the GEMS peripherals on (front cover, knock detectors etc, ). It's only the CPS type and position that differs between the two. As the two ECUs handle the CPS signals slightly differently (different induced voltages etc), probably best to stick with the GEMS sensor.
You've no doubt extracted the CPS stuff from RAVE, but if you haven't:
GEMS
The output signal from the CKP sensor is obtained from the magnetic path being made and broken as the reluctor ring teeth pass the sensor tip. The reluctor ring has 35 teeth and one missing tooth spaced at 10°intervals. The missing tooth is positioned at 20°after TDC.
Thor
The tip of the CKP sensor protrudes through an aperture in the engine block rear flange, adjacent to
the outer circumference of the flywheel. A 60-tooth reluctor ring is included on the flywheel which
provides the reference signal to the crankshaft position sensor.
The reluctor ring teeth are spaced at 6 degree intervals and are 3 degreeswide. Two of the reluctor ring teeth are
removed, to provide a reference mark which indicates when the crankshaft is at 60°BTDC for number 1 cylinder. The remaining 58 teeth cause an AC voltage to be induced in the sensor pick-up, with the
amplitude of the signal increasing with rising engine speed. The voltage generated is an analogue signal capable of peak amplitude voltages of up to 300V.
The distance of the tip from the top of the reluctor ring teeth is important as the amplitude of the detected signal will be reduced in proportion to an increase in the gap between the sensor tip and the top of the reluctor ring teeth. If the air gap becomes too wide, the CKP signal could become too weak and possible misfires could occur. Spacers are included in the CKP sensor kit which are used to ensure the correct gap between the sensor tip and reluctor ring teeth.
The ECM uses the falling edge of the signal waveform as its reference for each reluctor ring tooth.
Consequently, if the input signal wire and reference ground wire are inadvertently reversed, the ECM will react by providing a 3 degree advance in ignition timing.
GEMS information for the Nano says that:
Engine: Used to select between usages of the GEMS ECU with either a 4.0 or 4.6 litre engine. Unhelpfully it doesn't say whether that value can be written in with the Nano or is coded. I'd like to think it can be selected but have never tried. If you get that far, I'll plug my Nano into the GEMS and have a look.
Redraptor- you might want to think about adding your name to the "I want a Nano" list that lives somewhere on this forum. If you're keeping the new one as a long-term project car, a Nano is a worthwhile investment
Redraptor141 wrote:
I’m an aircraft engineer on a very very old airframe, so I truly understand the struggle of 75 manhours for every flying hour lol a p38 will be a breeze!...... he says.
Not involved in the ZF580 project are you?
And, as I posted in your other thread...
Hi Billy
I was mightily relieved that you didn't buy that first shed you were looking at :)
Cornwall is pretty devoid of LPG installers, but here's an index search for what there are out there
https://www.drivelpg.co.uk/approved-installers/find-an-approved-installer/
Maybe LPGC on here can suggest somebody, or perhaps you fancy a little holiday Oop North where he'll be able to sort you out with a decent installation?
Good luck with the new one. Bear in mind that a weekend tinker-toy quickly turns into an all your spare time tinker toy until you get on top of it!
Hi Billy
I was mightily relieved that you didn't buy that first shed you were looking at :)
Cornwall is pretty devoid of LPG installers, but here's an index search for what there are out there
https://www.drivelpg.co.uk/approved-installers/find-an-approved-installer/
Maybe LPGC on here can suggest somebody, or perhaps you fancy a little holiday Oop North where he'll be able to sort you out with a decent installation?
Good luck with the new one. Bear in mind that a weekend tinker-toy quickly turns into an all your spare time tinker toy until you get on top of it!
Morat wrote:
I do have a huge tent though :)
Compensating for something, or just getting excited thinking about it?
:)
Always a great idea to let the Missus have a hand in your car design :)
Does that mean Chris' car is worth a premium as I think he has Kahn wheels on his?