While compiling the servicing info for the new toy I found that the Zavoli/ Alesi system is nearly 11 years old and has covered 167000 miles with no attention apart from the occasional filter change. With many moving parts, solenoids etc I imagine some of them are a bit tired.
Suggestions welcome on what to change, ways to test etc.
By now we're all familiar with the use of the STC3064 cam kit and cutting off the extraneous bit of metal and we know these work well, BUT...
Getting the spring onto the plastic cam AND into it's correct locations can be a long process and hard on the fingertips and patience.
Here's the (well, an) answer- cable ties.
First the easy one. Use the first cable tie, with key in lock, to hold lock tab out of the way, like this:
Now for the spring. The problem is holding it under tension and connecting all the components at the same time, traditionally requiring 3 hands. The solution is to pre-tension the spring and use a cable tie to hold it under tension.
To do this (and I apologise that I don't have better photos, but again that would require 3 hands) put the spring onto a handy sized bar, screwdriver, whatever and prepare a small cable tie in a loop. put one end of loop under small arm of spring and press spring/ bar/ cable tie combo on table top.
Bring long arm of spring over into its tensioned position and tighten cable tie to hold that tension. Note you don't need as much tension as pictured.
Spring is now compressed and held compressed by cable tie.
Remove from bar and assemble handle/ cam components. They just drop into place easily without battling the spring.
Gently move handle to ensure everything assembled correctly, insert new roll pin, cut cable ties, spring releases.
Take other cable tie off lock arm
Pics of in progress solution:
Excuse the lack of paragraphs here. Haven't worked out how to transfer what's in the box format to published so look like a teenager typing on a mobile phone. Bear with me!
So... I'm running OMVL/ Millenium single point on my '95 4.6. Vapouriser, stepper and lambda sensors (sensor) are new.
I know that these setups aren't optimum for extracting the last few HP from the motor, due to the limitations of single lambda and single point injection of gas into the inlet. The system is set up to pretty much optimum, using the setting the OMVL mixture up at 50% restricted, 2500 rpm static method, tweaking with the software then locking down the limits on the stepper motor to +- 30 idle and +- 40 out of idle. It runs and idles fine BUT I'm getting bored with having to use the petrol switch as a turbo button when I occasionally feel like caning it. There's a huge difference on full throttle max power demand between LPG and petrol...
I'm thinking it's running weak on LPG at the top end, and my tortuous logic is thinking that it's the locked down stepper motor (ok actuator) that's causing this, by, in effect, acting as a second "main jet" and only partially opening to its pre-set limit.
I've found by trial and error that the actuator limits need to be locked at at the low end, or it's a bitch to start (actuator closed= no gas), but any reason why I shouldn't set the actuator limits to fully open at the out of idle top end? That would just leave the vapouriser to take care of the demand.
I don't have access to a 4wd rolling road (that'd be too easy) so my next proposed move is to get a very long lead for the laptop so I can monitor the lambda, find a long hill where I can floor it for 10 seconds or so in top, remove the actuator limit at the top and monitor the lambda- tweaking the vapouriser to suit.
Anyone (Richard?!) got any views/ thoughts on this or know of an easier approach? I'm applying petrol logic to a gas problem, so I might be chasing my own arse on this, but if it is running weak on full demand, I need to sort it before it goes pop.
Anyone have an idea of the part number or generic clip- the 4 that hold the brake light trim panel into the upper tailgate?
I imagine they're similar to the cheese headed ones that hold the door trims in place, but with a mushroom head. Wouldn't know for sure cos my broken panel was siliconed on and all I have is a mushroom head top rattling around inside.
Microcat computer is once again where I'm not otherwise I could look them up!
500 miles or so of mixed driving after Summer Camp I thought I'd give a bit of feedback on the Mintex pads I fitted to the front of the car. <br>
Compared to the genuine Land Rover pads I had before, the Mintex ones have much more feel- less wooden/ on-off and more round town braking with less pedal pressure. No signs of fade when driven enthusiastically round the Devon highways and byways. No squeal <br>
Only downside so far is that they generate a bit more brake dust so are probably softer and won't last as long. <br>
Mind you- I haven't towed anything yet so can't comment on ultimate fade resistance. <br>
At £21.49 delivered off the Bay compared to £100.00 ish for genuine ones they seem like good value for money. UK made too!
Now that my LPG system seems to be running properly, I thought I'd do a fill to fill from the same pump, mixed conditions consumption check. The trip to and from Summer Camp and some local running around seemed like an ideal mix of conditions. <br>
I'm getting 3.265 miles/litre <br>
I'm wondering how that compares with others on single point, multi point and 4.0 and 4.6 L <br>
Anyone prepared to share their dark secrets?!
Changing the belt on my 02 today noticed that the A/C pulley is a bit noisy with a bit of play on it's bearings when giving it a spin. My 95 has a nice quiet one with no play, which is not used at the moment cos I've put a short belt on the car due to a firkin great rock hole in the condenser.
So, are they (the pulley and clutch assy) interchangeable? Seems too good to be true that I could do such a simple no-cost, no re-gas fix!
For some strange reason, I can't see anything in "Exhaust Works" except the first post with the picture although 8 are shown. I'm thinking that maybe the Pub has a snug bar that I'm not allowed in :-) JK- but wonder what techie glitch is going on there?!
Anyone know the size of the O ring that goes on the metal cooling pipe that plugs into inlet manifold?
No time before Xmas to order the genuine article and have it here so am going to have to go for a best guess and the original's in 3 bits.
The groove is 19 dia mm x 3mm. OD of pipe is 22.67mm
O ring looks like it could be 2.5mm
Long shot, I know...
Finally given in and ordered a gearbox/ transmission adaptor for my trolley jack. Always used my hydraulic motorbike lift in the past, but it's starting to look a bit secondhand as it doesn't like asymmetric loads. No point in ruining it as I suspect I'm going back to classic bike restoration in the future 'cos they take up less space and don't use so much welding stuff!
Need a little advice before I break out the crowbar!
Have got this far with removing the heater unit to dismantle and free flaps, swap Distribution motor and put in an Audi matrix, oh and remove front carpet for an intensive clean.
I've removed or dislocated all ducts and hoses, taken out 2 bolts top rear and 2 underneath on floor, but on trying to lift out heater (moving toward rear of car and rotating to clear remainder of dash frame) I get little movement and a metallic graunching noise from the back somewhere, which I'm guessing is the evaporator.
Is there another fixing or two that I've missed or is there a technique, apart from brute force, that I should be using?
Any advice or "how I did it" pictures welcome!
Just before putting my instrument panel back together, I thought I'd have a probe around with my borescope at the bits you can't see.
Found evidence of some historic oozing from heater matrix O rings, no current drips or signs of leakage.
In the opinion(s) of the forum, do I really have to jump in immediately and do the Audi conversion and take the car off the road for even longer, or can I just continue to monitor for a few weeks?
All opinions welcome, especially the ones that say "continue to monitor"!
Reassembling the black one after diff surgery I noticed the following:
Now I didn't disturb the calipers, so although I'm famous for not being able to tell my left from right, I didn't mistakenly put them back on incorrectly. Thing is, the brakes work fine, hose alignment is fine.
Anyone else noticed this on theirs, or is it just a d!ckhead previous mechanic? I can't think of any reason to swap them back and have to bugger around bleeding brakes until I put new discs on some time in the future.
Pinion bearing's gone on my rear diff.
Looking through bills, the car had a rebuilt 4 pin diff supplied and fitted 73 000 miles ago. Only problem is I don't know whether it was front or back. Workshop labour hours were 2.0 so I'm guessing rear, as I imagine front would be more of a pain/ take longer than that given hub removal etc and it was a 4 pin.
Anyone have experience of changing a diff, front or rear, and how long it took?
I don't think I'll be able to do a warranty claim (!) but I am curious about a diff that only lasted 73k.
Went to replace an olive on the main tank to vapouriser pipe today and found the it's a 6mm rather than 8mm pipe (plastic coated so size wasn't obvious before). 8mm is recommended for 2.0 litres and above engines, I believe?
I take it that this will significantly reduce gas flow, send high RPM mixture weak and thus lose peak power?
It's a pain 'cos I've just spent a significant amount of time lovingly P clipping the whole installation...
Getting some strange coolant temp anomalies on the VSE. New ECT sensor (Delphi) fitted as part of the head replacement job.
Diagnostics temp high, gauge temp low. Both wrong compared to actual measured.
The ECT sensor on the Thor is a dual thermistor type- one feeding gauge, other engine management. Plug can only go on one way.
Does anyone know whether both thermistors are same value? I have temp/ volts/ kOhm values from the Bosch SID for the ECU side of the sensor, but can't find anything for the gauge side.
Checked oil on blue back-up RR, prior to my road trip/ holiday tour tomorrow and...
Yes- that's a lovely beige water/ oil emulsion. Checked coolant level in expansion tank- dropped around 1/4 litre and it never uses any.
So that's that, both P38s sidelined.
I am so pi$$ed off
I've noticed recently (but it may have always been there) that on raising my height from access to extended, or back, that there's a point where the suspension seems to stick momentarily then give a little jump rather than moving smoothly. The point at which it happens is never quite the same. <br>
Everything looks normal underneath, no chafing or dull spots on bags, no grease nipples to grease. Even sprayed bags and rubber bushes with rubber lube (oooer missus). Still the sticking is there. <br>
Anyone else have this, is it just paranoia because I've noticed it and am now looking for it?!
ARP have finally moved off the fence and have revised torque settings for head studs. They're now saying final stage torque 70 lb/ft.
Many opinions on the web as to what should be used, but 60 lb/ft seems to be the most popular.
Any thoughts from the forum where the real experts live?!
Edit- just noticed the instructions say torque as per steps 1 - 4 and there are only 3 steps!
Found a little puddle of coolant on the tray under the expansion tank after an enthusiastic drive back from Summer Camp.
First depressing thought was coolant overpressure escaping via cap, as it was right under the short "overflow" pipe. Put pink UV dye in tank and pressure tester on the system with coolant warm, pumped it to 20psi and wandered off for an hour.
Found this- hairline crack exactly under the arrow moulding. Not a split and no great coolant loss, even after 170 miles of mixed A and B roads and motorways.
Would have been pretty hard to spot the crack under normal running with just coolant so worth a close look at your tank next time you're in there. Tank is the original, by the way