For some strange reason, I can't see anything in "Exhaust Works" except the first post with the picture although 8 are shown. I'm thinking that maybe the Pub has a snug bar that I'm not allowed in :-) JK- but wonder what techie glitch is going on there?!
I wonder why I can't see any of the 7 posts- just the initial photo!
Elec Heated screen uses a different set of relays (4 and 5) and fuses (30 and 32) etc. RL7 is just half of blower motor circuits. Can't post pic easily at moment but RAVE ETM F6 has circuit diagram (page 176 of 611 in my copy):
Until the thermal switch cries enough, I suppose! You could push the boundaries of science and read the temperature up to the point where it either
If you can get your good cooler and pipes off intact, pop down to your local Pirtek with it. They'll put you in some dismantleable joints in a convenient place in the pipework. Might even do it for a tea fund contribution if you catch them at a slack time. They did this for me when I went in to get some HP PAS flexi hoses grafted onto my old pipes to save a few pennies!
Isn't the O ring you mention just the remains of the old seal?!
See if you can wrangle the cooler and pipes complete off the breaker. It's the ends where they attach to the cooler that seize up. If you can get 'em off without having to separate, then that'll prove you can get them back on :-) Failing that, heat might do it, but it's a lottery with softish parts...
The problem with the retaining bar (on mine anyway) is that it's inverted "L" shaped in cross section so if you don't cut back the vertical part to suit the large battery top you've got a very thin contact edge clamping down on the battery, which has the potential to cut into the top of the battery.
Battery Megastore do next day delivery too if order placed before 1630. You get the added comedy value of watching the delivery guy go a strange colour as they struggle up the drive with a small, very heavy box! As your car's in the garage, you could get the battery delivered there and let them fit it and do the mod to the retaining strap for you. One point to watch is, if you've replaced the standard battery terminals with vertical stud ones like this http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/BT461P-150.jpg check the clearance to the bonnet on the +ve if you've got a lot of HD cables bolted to it. You REALLY don't want to ground that terminal even when testing to make sure it clears! Don't let it put you off though. The standard connectors are not a problem and clear everything quite happily.
Try this for size!
http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/hankook-mf31-1000.html
Marty and I have both used these. Leads are a bit of a stretch, but fits OK. Just have to shave a bit off the retaining strap.
No hams per se up here on the Moors. Farmers tend to use CB on anything with wheels, but no-one's complained yet. I've got an old CB on my hybrid. Might switch it on if I can find the battery and see what happens!
Mine are TP-Link, I think (or maybe Netgear). Can't remember as they were in my junk box from a job I did years ago. I'll have a look when I'm over at the shop. No flames yet :-) . BTW did you mean that the Hams kick out interference with the network, or the network kicks out interference to the Hams?
More of a description of a girlfriend I had many years ago :-)
Martyuk wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
Erotic idle?
Is that where it's vibrating a bit more than it should? Mine does that at highway speed, and it's definitely not pleasurable! well, not for me anyway!!>
I used a couple of Powerline Adaptors to feed my workshop network from the main farm switch. Much easier than running 75m of cable across the farmyard. Worked fine, even through 2 consumer units. An elegant and lazy solution!
Martyuk wrote:
Just need to get a network cable run to the diagnostics PC, from the switch in the office
Erotic idle?
dave3d wrote:
I misread this post, I thought it said Eric Idle.
Or the fact that most of our roads are potholed cart tracks, in worse condition than the Romans left them :-)
Gilbertd wrote:
dave3d wrote:
They said it was based on claims history, so I think we must come to the conclusion that we drive our cars harder in the UK.
Or we are more likely to complain when they fail.......
Nope- good ole rubbery ones
I have Koni's on mine. They've eliminated the soggy rebound of the standard shocks and stiffened the car up in roll, without altering the compression damping feel (harshness is generally due to replacement shocks being "stiffer" in compression compared to standard).
Downside- around £250 per axle set!
It's an interesting one Marty. It looks like there might be a crack right across the block into the water channel to the head as well as the more obvious damage. You'd need to find out the dimensions of the top-hat liner and see how much block material would be machined out to fit it. My concern would be that there wouldn't be enough material left to adequately reinforce the new liner at that point. If that were the case you'd be into having new metal welded back into the block and then machined back to suit. As with all things metal, anything can be repaired, but the time/cost of doing that might be prohibitive compared to the cost of buying a bare block with no defects and top-hatting it. If it were me, if it was a block from something where a replacement couldn't easily be found, I'd go with it and have it repaired, but RV8 blocks are pretty easy to find, so I wouldn't bother. Your wallet and a chat with your favourite machinist (with experience of machining for top-hat's) will be the deciding factors!
