Typical that it should choose to go on the morning of the day of an M.O.T! Sometimes I don't think she appreciates me. I've gone for a Rimmer Bros OEM replacement but £100!, for others next time if anyone knows of cheaper generic alternatives please chime in here......

PC38 wrote:

Dear David,
These https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs very good, a bit fiddly to fit with the heatsink and then zip tie the little black box to the headlamp frame. Work well, good low beam cut off, not absolutely certain they are much brighter as I din't do a side by side but i prefer knowing there's less juice flowing through her 20+ year old wiring.

Despite being good they as per the original thread an instant M.O.T fail. The tester was quite sanguine he said "its what's fitted when I test it, even if there's an LED wrapped in a plastic bag adjacent to the headlight. What's fitted after you've driven 50 yds down the road is up to you"

She's just failed because the "ABS light comes on when brakes applied" apparently on the rolling road whilst testing the braking force. In all other respects the system works normally, ABS comes on when ignition on, stay illuminated until a few MPH registered and then no sign of it unless braking hard enough on a loose enough surface to initiate brake modulation which of course i can feel. But just realised that the brake pressure pump comes on as soon as I touch the brake pedal, and when pressed hard the ABS light can come on for a second or two whilst the pump is pumping.
So I'm assuming its the pressure vessel that's gone?

Dear Richard,
No blowers were untouched, just changed the bulbs in the HEVAC, which in fact I did without removing it. Then it appeared. since then inumerable combinations of swapped HEVACs, delete codes, ignitions on/off reconnects etc. Have done the recycle thing, no joy.

Dear Brian,
Thanks for the interest. The error is in the first post, left and right blower voltage varying between 0 and 25(!) volts.

Dear Richard,
Indeed. Connections look fine and have been contact cleaner cleaned. The workbook comes on as soon as the HEVAC powers up. Has anyone had experience of these Lynx devices not being able to delete error codes?

Dear All,
literally as i put the HEVAC panel back in from its LED conversion the book symbol came on. All the servos work, I can hear them and checked them with my Lynx device. Soon realised neither blower motor is running. Wired 12 volts across their heavy black and red cables and they both turn. Checked relays 6 & 7 both OK. Fuses 43 and 34 both OK. I have two HEVACs both tested and checked. Same error message comes up with either.

Then on the Lynx I saw this;

followed by this.

So I'm assuming the blower controllers have gone, but both at once? Could there be a unifying explanation?

Dear Brian,
I take that as a compliment, mine were made up the same way as the un-switched ones, just cut away less. No idea Discoveries have them. I managed to find the original thread.
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2205-load-space-lighting although i ended up ditching the Classic LED units in favour of the ones from e-bay.

nigelbb wrote:

The lights look fantastic but if they are powered off the trailer auxiliary plug how do you switch the lights off?

The ones in the roof have switches, they are a variant of the one in the thread above.

the switches are wired "two way" and all the lights in series, so either switch will turn on or off all four lights.

KCR wrote:

WOW! Literally a "bright" idea ... impressive
Irrc there is a permanent 12V feed behind the left(?) boot panel in a white connector for accessories power outlet for a fridge etc. Later (guess post facelift) models have a power outlet in the boot already. .

Yep I think you are referring to C356, see two posts above.

Garvin wrote:

Sounds like the risk of a flat battery in the making!

err not sure how you reason that, if they are on you will know it even in daylight. if not no risk? Wiring from the trailer auxillary plug gets round having the have relays and the time out delay issues of the interior lights.
,even in daylight

Dear All,
A tip re the power supply. If you wire them into the existing courtesy light circuits the LEDs won't work, presumably there's some electrikery in the BECM. So I wired mine into the permanent power and earth on the 4 way trailer connector found in the space behind the panel on the left hand side of the loadspace. I think its connector C356 on Rave. It means they act independently of the interior lights and stay on when the other internal lights turn off.

Fixed the links to the photos.

Dear All,
I can't find my previous LED light mod thread so I'm posting here, the final outcome. you may remember I modified the courtesy light to create an OEM style internal swithced light without the reading light. Well i went further to create an OEM style single slave light and put one on each side under the shelf supports and wired them into the top lights. The switches are wired as two ways so whichever switch you hit the lights go on or off respectively.
i have no joy in getting photos to work so you can see the pictures here, should be self explanatory.

the LED units are from e-bay and are highly recomended.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363326530633

I'm really pleased with the end result, massively improves being able to see what you are doing.

Dear All,
If you don't want to have another aeriel in your car you could use this https://www.classiccarstereo.co.uk/shop/antennas-aerials/dab-adapter-module/ which converts your FM aerial to a DAB aeriel. It plugs into the cable from the aerial so could be mounted immediately behind your radio with the output plug going direct into the radio, rather than having it in line or where your aerial is.
Forgot to say, works brilliantly

• a cheap way is just to wire 12Watt brake light bulbs in parallel with whatever bulbs you're fitting. I once fitted some Xenon's on my dad's 2004 Vectra (this was in 2006), they continuously flashed and the dash lit up with bulb warnings, but they worked perfectly with break bulbs wired in parallel and the dash warning lights went out. Instead of using resistors you can just use bulbs, a resistor flowing same current as a bulb is going to have to dissipate as much heat anyway? Handy under-bonnet lights for checking the engine at night too lol.

Simon, pure genius!

Pete12345 wrote:

What is the actual difference on current with the LEB bulbs ? My understanding is the heatsink is to cool the resistor used to fool the BECM that a regular bulb is fitted & working !! Not sure how low the bulb current can be before triggering the bulb failure detection ?

Dear Pete,
Well their web site claims they draw 1.6 amps and the standard Halogens should be drawing about 4.5 amps. Sorry doesn't answer your question though!

leolito wrote:

Paul, it goes straight in, provided you mount first its 'cradle' (should come in the box together with the radio).
Since the shape of the OE radio is not squareish, there are available some "inserts" to fit on the side.
See here
https://www.cartronics.co.uk/media/rangerover%20radio%20replace/New%20radio%20in%20Range%20Rover%20using%20original%20amplifer.jpg

Thank you, one ordered and on its way, what did you do about the FM and DAB aerials?

Dear David,
These https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs very good, a bit fiddly to fit with the heatsink and then zip tie the little black box to the headlamp frame. Work well, good low beam cut off, not absolutely certain they are much brighter as I din't do a side by side but i prefer knowing there's less juice flowing through her 20+ year old wiring.

Dear All,
Mine has passed two M.O.Ts with all bulbs now LED including the headlights and fogs, no problems.

Gilbertd wrote:

If you don't mind changing the head unit, then something like this https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT950DAB/.

Dear Gilbertd,
I see this is a DIN1 unit. Is this a simple slot in? I'm OK with the wiring etc but mechanical fixing, does it just slip and clip in or do you need adapters?