Dear All,
Does anyone have a spare set of the black plastic buttons you press to release the rear seats?
Happy to pay postage etc.
Dear All,
I have the metal carcass of a passenger side front seat with the switch panel. All motors are present and work but the lumbar air bag and pump are missing. If anyone wants them happy to package and attach a label if you arrange it from your end.
Dear Simon(?),
No idea, all the conversion companies I've spoken to so far seem to switch off, literally and metaphorically, as soon as mention its a P38.........
£25 to £60K is the on-line range.
Dear All,
Thanks, thats what i was thinking, 350 kg = 70 Tesla battery packs, should be enough range.........
Dear All,
Does anyone known what the 4.0 litre engine plus the manual gearbox with its ancillaries (air con, alternator, power steering pumps, exhaust manifolds, intakes etc) attached weighs?
Dear All,
Does anyone have a link to photos of the door handle repair and the bit of metal you remove? All the older threasds on different sites seem to have lost their photos.
Dear All,
I need to replace my non electric passenger side seat base (DOH burnt through it with soldering iron) and have a good complete but electric seat from a breaker. Having looked through all the various threads on seats/heater elements etc i can't see any obvious way of just removing the bottom cushion from mine and slotting the replacement in? Is it possible?
Sloth wrote:
Funny you say that Morat - I don't think the AT3 looks that great either :)
Going to be next month before I buy I think - but the Falkens are so far my favourite.
And after fitting them I agree! They don't look quite right on such a refined vehicle, but needs must.
Well things have moved on since it was how valuable is my car?
My view,
solar power (limitless supply),
room temperature superconductors (to get the power to the dark bits as the world spins),
generate and store hydrogen,
used in fuel cells,
to replace the batteries.
Job done.
Oh and in the meantime ban all non electric new vehicle production, use the freed up manufacturing capacity to convert cars to LPG as they age in the interim.
Dear All,
I've just fitted AT3s all round on refurbshed wheels. Very noticeably beefier shoulders and deep tread but no obvious immediate issues with road noise and they seem to stick to greasy tarmac pretty good. I do regular non hard core off road farm tracks muddy verges etc so probaby a bit OTT for that but we'll see. Unfortunately the week later the rear diff began to whine........
mad-as wrote:
with the dash out i think its 2 screws up near the winscreen and it lifts out , dont forget the heater hoses but you will be doing the orings as well i would imagine. doesn't affect the AC
They are bolts rather than screws, you also need to remove the single philips screw that holds the heater section onto the A/C section, that half can be left in situ. The box is held tight in place by the two dash subframes either side of it and a cross piece that spans between them behind where the row of switches are, i could only get that out by loosening off the bolts holding down the bottom of the two subframes and yanking them up. There are some excellent write ups available.
I think you can short circuit dismantling the glove box as well, it can be removed as one unit by removing the screws that hold up the surround and just two of the four bolts at the bottom, two bolt the whole unit against the car, the other two clamp the bottom of the box to its subframe assembly. Saves a lot of time re-aligning the locks and catches when it goes back as one unit.
Dear All,
As far as I know as long as the instrument binnacle and the passenger air bag are connected you will be fine. I drove mine around for about a month having removed the dash but replaced the passenger air bag on the frame, duck taped the switches and light selector together and the instrument panel to a couple of gash brackets i had lying around. Looked rather odd, a sort of skeleton dash but it all worked.
Dear All,
Not really a resurrection, a quick question that has no obvious home and not wanting to start a brand new thread. I may need to run mine without the HEVAC control unit plugged in for a few days, that shouldn't cause any problems other than a cold cabin? No BECM issues?
Gilbertd wrote:
What is you you send Paul? Customs get upset with certain descriptions and simply putting Car Parts isn't accepted for some reason, you have to put exactly what car parts you are sending.
Dear All,
All sorts, 1/6th scale model tanks, Bultaco parts, i'm even about to send a half human skeleton. Never had a problem before.
Regards
Paul C
Dear Bear,
I regularly post stuff i sell on e-bay to the USofA. Happy to send yours for you.
BrianH wrote:
Well spotted. Well first thing would be to see why thats on with Nano or similar diagnostics then?
Dear Richard, Simon and "I can't tell from the site",
Yes its definitely the temperature of the hot air coming out of the vents. The HEVAC work book relates to other issues. When i think it may have come form when i first installed a non sequential system in 2006. Do you think if i plumbed the vaporiser in series rather than in parallel this might not be an issue? All the instructions for all the systems I have seen have a parallel installation but i can see that might result in differential coolant flows. I installed a flow restriction ball valve in mine to allow for this but perhaps i should have gone for series from the start?
So question that follows:
how do you plumb in your vapouriser for LPG, series or parallel?
Dear All,
Not so much oily as odd. I've noticed for a long long time that the heating air gets noticeably hotter when going round right hand turns and cooler to the left. i'd imagined this was some sort of surge in the cooling system but all my levels are up, no leaks and "burped" free of air, that i know of.
Has anyone else observed this, anyone got an explanation?
Dear All,
I've gone LED USB crazy. Bought a cheap USB cigarette plug-in, changed the LED for a green one, re-carcassed it and here you are. Apologies for the dirt.
and
Dear All,
Ahemm.....
and
showing with the continental adapter.
Dear All,
I am in the market to buy a UK passenger side (left ) rear quarter window with its preferably good non weathered surrounding trim, in optikool.
It will have to be cut out as they are bonded to the body side frames.