Dear All,
Any thoughts? June 1995 200K miles central locking bu**ering about. In last few years for various reasons have upgraded RF receiver, drivers side door station and fob. Now the problem appears to be the car is immediately forgetting any synchronised fob. So I can go through all the EKA code setting and the car will unlock but as soon as I go to use the buttons on the fob again after a reset it doesn't respond. The latch in the drivers door is a new one a few years ago but has been fiddled with by a paint shop. the rear passenger door locking buttons are a bit tight and not often used these days. I've done the dealers quick re-synch holding teh buttons on the fob with the key in the lock until the light flashes fast and with the key in the ignition the led does come on. I have two fobs, one regular one and one a backup. the problem first came to light out of the blue using the daily fob, which the car no longer recognised but the backup worked for about a week, then its started happening with either.
So any pointers greatly appreciated. I'm thinking the RF receiver first?
Harv wrote:
Thanks for all the info on the LED’s. I’m going to try using some in a few places.
here's the link to my postings on some LED electrickery
Dear All,
Been there done that and its not as simple as you think. The tell tale bulbs are in those little twist in plastic sockets. they are minute bulbs with short wire legs that are wrapped around the socket, and when twisted in place make contact with the PCB in the switch. There are no direct LED replacements. so you have to source single green or orange LED elements that also have the legs. push the legs through the holes, wrap them around the base. However these elements only emit light in one direction, so you have to allow enough room to bend them through 90's so they are "facing" front. But, these are often polarity sensitive so you have to make sure that when twisted into the switch both the wires are in contact with the positive or negative and the LED is face forward. Quite a faff. Well worth it when its done as they are much brighter.
I'm writing this from away from the car and my garage so i'll try to remember to upload some pictures at the end of the week.
Dear All,
Mine sounds the same, on a 10,000 mile Turner engineering engine. Always has. I've always assumed it was a stuck l;ifter but numerous oil changes and flushes no change. Comes from the L bank, ran it with rocker cover off all seemed in order. So no idea but reassuring it looks like its a common noise and not just mine!
Dear All,
We've just had all the roads i drive to work on (when I'm not cycling) go to 20 mph limits. I got wondering what that meant for emissions and did some calculating. Eyeballing the rpm at different speeds and gears;
20 mph in 4th is 1,100 rpm. So over an hour thats 20 miles covered and 66,000 fuel burning and emissions creating engine revolutions (1100 60).
30 mph in 4th is 1500 rpm, but you cover the 20 miles in 40 minutes, so 60,000 revolutions (1500 40).
30 mph in 5th is 1200 rpm and again the 20 miles covered in 40 mins so 48,000 revolutions (1200 * 40).
So slowing the traffic is actually worse for the environment?
Or have I got it wrong somewhere
Dear All,
My front fog lamp switch is not working the lamps, so I want to remove it but i don't want to have to remove the whole switch panel from the middle of the dashboard. Does anyone have any quick tip as to how to prise out these switches? A pair of feeler gauges stuck down top and bottom? I remember when I looked at them when I had the dash out i thought it could be done but have so far failed. a way of removing them in situ and forwards would be really good.
Dear All,
Can we use this site for buying and selling? I have an item that might be of interest.
Dear All,
Excellent work, well done.
Dear All,
Almost a snap! Parked her up after a manure run up the M3 and found oil dripping, looked underneath and the out side of battery box, washer bottle, oil filter etc all covered in oil. Found a leaking joint where that pipe screws onto the cooler, so should be easy to fix but luckily my cramped ends are the correct ones. Oil light never came on and dip stick level was 1/4 inch below the lower level so should all be fine. Lucky it wasn't a longer journey.
Dear All,
I had a refurbed HEVAC unit that I could not get to work with all new working servos and flaps etc and eventually Marty managed to find some deeply embedded error code.
Yes, LEDs everywhere, headlights, dash, interior etc. Vast improvement. Only hasssle is having to pop the old halogens back in (main, dip and fogs) for the annual MOT. ALso lots of extra lighting in the load bay. As Clive says do a search.
Dear All,
It was the switch pack. One dry joint re-soldered on the processor pins and the little metal diapragm for the up switch wasn't contacting relaibly. No corrosion on it, I simply bent the three corners down a bit and punched the central contact a bit lower as well. Pity because this was in fact a "brand new" replacement pack from Rimmer Bros 3 yrs ago. But I noticed the manufacture date stamp was 2011, so its sat on their shelves for 8 yrs or so.
Anyway the windows now works normally and as soon as that was working the lock, press, hold auto window shut worked again. So all happy again, thanks to all.
Dear All,
Advice please. Had a flat battery situation, got it recharged and connected etc and afterwards the front windows (which were fully down) would not wind up. Pressing the buttons on the switch pack the motors made a click but no movement. I managed to directly power the passenger side window into the up position and then the drivers door window started responding to the switch pack. But now the passenger window will only power down, pressing the up switch it doesn't respond. Also after setting the alarm with the double lock, the auto close on the windows doesn't work either. Any ideas?
Dear Richard,
Yep no problems but remember i'm all LED anyway so i already have the ballast resistor in place.
Dear All,
Some will like, some will not.
Dear Chris,
Not well, i tried hot soldering it which didn't go well, couldn't get the solder to attach to the metal strip in the window and in sanding it down to get a better contact inadvertantly removed too much of the interior black masking paint, so now from the outside theres a blank patch visible. i'll have to paint it back again.
However Richards suggestion did work, simply took a peice of 13 amp domestic wire, wedged it between the glass and the metl bodywork, hidden extrnaly behind the black masking paint and internaly behind the headlining and the D pillar trim, duck taped in, connected up and it works a treat!
Dear All,
Apologies but I want to regale our dear Mayor of London but my car is 60 miles away so can't check for a week or two. In a manual P38 can someone check and let me know what the engine RPMs are at 20 mph in top and 4th gear and again at 30 mph in top and 4th gear please?
Dear Both,
Thnaks for your replies, i didn't know conducive glue existed! I've ordered some and will have a go at the soldering whilst it ships over.
Regards
Paul C
Dear All,
Happy New Year to you all and lets hope 2022 brings more joy than 2021.
I've been trying to get my sound system working properly and following recommendation from here I got the Kenwood radio that Richard recommended, excellent, works brilliantly and as he says colour codes to match the green of my (now much brighter) all LED dash.
However rubbish reception on FM and investigating I find the wire from the RH window aerial has been connected to a piece of copper wire running up over the inside of the rear headliner. Looking at the window where the wire that goes to the amplifier should be connected, I see that the connection is broken, there's no wire on the window but there does appear to be a place where there once was a soldered/welded connection.
My question is is it safe to try to solder a wire back onto the window?
Will I end up damaging the window? will it crack? Has anyone done this before?
An experience / advice greatly appreciated.
Dear All,
As its the original ABS pump if reservoir needed replacing ,likely pump will too, but a bit pricey. How long should it pump for to get the pressure up, a few seconds, longer. This is after standing for a week?