Not today but last sunday
Video here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jefn2KefTiqEPtLb6
I'm the silver P38, see me in action at 2mins 38 seconds, 3:27 and 5:16. The orange 90 broke the front diff, the black 90 both rear shockers, the white 110 a propshaft and a CVJ. So one 90 became a Citroen, 2 wheel frontwheel drive. The SVR failed two climbs that I cleared (but admittedly he was on pure road tyres). So if we scored it the Rangie came 3rd out of 8, not bad for a standard manual on Grabber AT3s.
Immense fun and mind boggling considering all the other tricked up 4x4s with their lockers, widened wheelbases and wide sand tyres.
Dear Richard,
Thanks yet again. If only I'd been more patient or persistent with my searches I wouldn't have had to destroy my door card in an attempt to get bat the lock from the inside. Still I have a door that now opens and a replacement card on its way from e-bay, so soon the equilibrium will be restored.
Gilbertd wrote:
Door outstation. Everything on the door goes via that so if it dies, nothing on the door will work. Both are fed from the same fuses and don't go via the connections behind the kick panel. Easiest check is to swap it for the one on the passenger door and if the fault moves that is definitely the problem.
So could a faulty outstation stop the door unlocking? My passenger door wont unlock from any means, the physical door handles inner and outer, the inner door lock latch or from the remote. It stays persistently locked. I've cut into the door card to manually operate the levers on the latch but it still won't unlock. using the door lock button successfully works the other 3 doors.
The window goes up and down.
Any thoughts?
Dear Pierre,
What did you do to get the door open? You mention " I did the LR emergency manoeuvre and bashed the latch with a steel rod, thereby allowing into the vehicle." I have a the same problem with the passenger side. I've prodded and pulled on all the things I can see through the window gap but no joy.
Dear All,
Passenger door has decided to stay locked, nothing will free it, internal handle, locking tab, external handle, any other lock tab and remote. Allother doors operate correctly. Looking down inside I can see all the cables and rods are attached. So the latch must have failed. Question is how do you get the door open? The american forum suggests you have to remove the rear door and then butcher the metal hoop the latch locks onto.
Anyone got any other tricks or ideas?
Dear All,
Apologies, i've searched for steering lock/barrel/ignition/column but found nothing. My steering lock is proving increasingly troublesome to release, get into car, key in ignition, turn key, won't turn, won't unlock steering, have to wiggle and keep turning the key and then randomly it will release and I can drive off. The lock barrel is now an obselete VIN specific part. So any ideas, is it possible to remove/disable the steering lock but keep the ignition key?
Neither can I find much in the way of schematics or photos?
Dear All,
How long will it take for the adaptive values to reset if you don't have a Nanocom or other device. Mine has been running rich due (I hope) to a poor ground from the MAF. Its now fixed, at the MAF I have a good battery voltage supply, a good earth and the MAF sensor is reporting 1.45v at idle rising to 2+ volts on throttle (no load). She is still running rich, and I've replaced one of the lambda sensors which is reflecting what the other is showing, it thinks its running lean (4.9 - 5 volts).
So is this a wait for the values to reset or another problem?
PC38 wrote:
I realise I should have put this in the electrikery section.
Dear All,
Well if its of any interest the eventual outcome was that the earth to the MAF via connector C531 on terminal 3 the red and black wire was not grounding, as soon as I wired up an alternative route to 12v negative she again ran beautifully. I did not bother to try to find out where the ground was (not).
Dear All,
I realise I should have put this in the electrikery section.
I did the installation and the LPG ecu is wired into the Lambda sensors so what it sees is what the RR ECU sees. In the past when doing other things and tuning the LPG system i've seen the lambdas working correctly in the same software, oscillating from 0-5 and back etc. So I know the diagnostic is seeing the real reading.
Dear All,
Mine is spewing gallons of sooty black watery exhaust. My LPG diagnostics shows both lambda sensors (one brand new) sitting resolutely at 5 volts (GEMS engine). I've suspected the MAF and cleaned it and the filter but still the same. the car will run with the MAF disconnected but much worse and richer.
So Q1)
am I right to suspect the MAF, its labelled a Lucas part.
I've read the various MAF/problems/testing/cleaning threads but am still not sure,
Q2) what are my options for a replacement?
Thanks in advance.
Dear All,
for info found the problem, i reasoned that the RF unit wasn't communicating with the BECM so checked the wiring and it was C236 at the BECM, connector was duff. Now all sorted and all working again. So I probably didn't need to buy the new RF after all - DOH.
Dear All,
Re-kindling this thread because i've run out of ideas. As per previous posting out of the blue the car stopped responding to remote pressed buttons on the fob. Fob battery and LED all OK. She does respond fully and as expected with the key in the door. Keycode lockout, engine immobilised etc all work with the key in the door and when synch'd all four doors and interior lights work with the key in the door as they should. So my attention turned to the RF receiver. I bought a genuine new one. fitted it and nothing. I checked the power at the plug, a good continuous battery voltage and good clean connection to ground. Plugged it back in and the car then responds to the fob, as normal. locks and unlocks. I then try the key in the door lock, which again works as normal, but then it no longer responds to the buttons on the fob. Its almost as if its "forgetting" its synch via the RF.
Any ideas as to whats going on?
Dear All,
Thanks for the advice.
No the return of services after a lockout was immediate and for everything except for fob control. No evidence the RF is working. Unfortunately I don't have a Nanocom, only a Lynx. So its a continuity and voltage testing weekend. At least it'll be pretty quick to confirm suspected diagnosis, 12v + and - from battery terminals to RF and see what happens.
Dear All,
After establishing that everything works as it should with the key manually (EKA coding, all doors respond to the turning key, no alarm messages) I concluded it must be the RF receiver. Just fitted a genuine LR replacement and still the car refuses to respond to buttons pressed on freshly manually synchronised fobs. Next I'm going to check power to the RF and continuity back to the BECM but any other bright ideas?
Gilbertd wrote:
To get that much condensation, your car must be very damp inside. Is it wet in the footwells? I would suspect rain is getting in through the bulkhead, roof joins or similar and when it sits outside in the sun it vaporises before condensing on the cold roof. Any damp patches on the headlining anywhere which would suggest a leak around the screen? Do the windows steam up when it is parked in the sun?
No but I have been running it for several months without the sealing trim at the bottom of the windscreen. Oops. Suddenly looking a bit sheepish.
Dear All,
I thought it somewhat odd to have water drip from the central ceiling light - doubly so because I don't have a sunroof. Slipped it out and crikey, all that condensation. if that's across the entire roof its half a litre or so of water sitting, or not, in the cavity. Has anyone else ever seen anything like it? The car parked outside at the moment so presumbaly this is a meteorological thing.
Any thoughts on what if anything I can do about it? A car hood?
Gilbertd wrote:
Like I say, there is a tiny surface mount 5V regulator in the upgraded receiver which has been known to fail. I know Marty has repaired a few of them. Do you have an earlier one you can put in to try?
Dear Richard,
I don't unfortunately. I see from the Rangerovers.net site Marty is offering a replacement RF receiver but he's out of stock at the moment.
I've also notice that when the car is unlocked the passenger door tabs don't shoot up as vigorously as they used to, could resistance in those mechanisms be part of the problem?
in the meantime i've examined my green spot receiver, no obvious sign of anything burnt out.
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes you can. When you turn the ignition switch to position 3, it provides a ground to the BeCM. If the BeCM has received a valid unlock code, it allows that ground through to the starter relay. By linking the two pins it allows the ground to go directly, bypassing the BeCM, but it won't make any difference if the original wiring is left attached or not.
As you can see from my other thread looks like i'm having problems. So with this jumper in place I should be able to start my car no matter what the alarm thinks?
Dear Richard,
Thanks for such rapid response. Its bl**dy cold out there and off course I didn't realise that there is a dedicated alarm sounder under the fuse box! I'd disconnected the first horn thinking that was the source but the next time it still honked away. How can it still make a noise upsetting the neighbours? I found and disconnected the second horn, but it still did it, how can it still be making a noise upsetting the neighbours? That's when i located the dedicated alarm horn. Anyway all silent now.
Yes the fob was rotated as you say.
What I have now noticed is that after an EKA reset if I turn the key in the door lock to lock the car i hear clicks and clunks from all four doors but then if I turn it to unlock only the drivers door unlocks, the three others do not operate. So maybe its a drivers door microswitch problem?
Would a drivers door microswitch problem play havoc with everything else?