yes, of course - I can chop off the two plugs from the new lock and solder and heat shrink the new cable to the old plug cables. I have the electrical switch enclosure, from the back of the old lock, with the plug on the lead. If I just cut it off, leaving a decent bit of length, then I can do the same to the new lock cable and solder them together, having a slightly longer cable from the lock, to plug onto the car door loom.

Sorry for missing the obvious, often one needs another head to solve a problem. Thanks for your kind assistance. Just out of interest, if I am soldering in the door how easy is it for the car to go on fire ????!!! Only joking.

Pierre3.

Hi Richard. Thanks for getting back to me, if that is the correct terminology !!

I had a strong suspicion that the US passenger side probably wouldn't work, mainly because there isn't a key entry on the passenger side door handle. The most annoying thing about this is how I missed the fact that the door latch, that I bought, had two plugs !!! I was really annoyed with myself because I have fitted the new latch and tested the mechanical operation of it. It was only when I went to connect the plug as the last thing to do, before refitting the door panel, that I suddenly found that I was looking at two plugs !! Even next doors dog had his ears covered when he heard my language.

So, can I just check - the two plug latch is the early one ?

What I was considering was to pop out the wires with their pins still connected, and hopefully those pins will sit properly in my original orange plug. If it doesn't work then I will look, perhaps, at using your suggestion but with bullet connectors. Just in case I ever need to disconnect the door latch again.

Anyway, thanks a lot for giving me the information to go forward with, and not having to get burned by buying another door latch !!!

Pierre3.

Hi, I thought that I had solved a problem with the drivers' side door latch blowing up and locking me out of the car. I did the LR emergency manoeuvre and bashed the latch with a steel rod, thereby allowing into the vehicle. I then got a new door latch from my usual LR dealer - but, as has been pointed out, the "f***-up" of the electrical connector plugs came into play.

The door latch that arrived has - yes, you guessed it - two connector plugs. But my latch has only one. F, f, f*** !!!!

So, I am wondering whether I can take the original plug off my broken lock and then take the two plugs off the new lock and reconnect them into the old single plug, to reconnect to the wiring loom.

The first picture is the new, two plug arrangement; the second picture is the original plug off the banjoed door latch; and the third picture is the plug connector on the end of the door wiring loom.

The correct door latch is FQJ103260 but this is NLA and LR tell me that they have no prospects of new stock arriving. So this leaves the second hand market with the prospect of the door lock failing again, whenever it feels like it. The latch that I currently have is FQJ103220 but it is for the previous model of P38. The part number FQJ103260 seems to have been fitted to very late P38's and when I asked LR they said that that part number shouldn't have fitted to my vehicle, based on the chassis number. BUT - it is !!

If it is possible to rewire the plugs then it will avoid having to [a] buy second hand; and [b] rescue the cost of buying the two plug latch.

Any suggestions would be most welcome. A last comment - I have seen a new passenger side door latch for a LHD P38 with the correct plug, and all the mechanical lock connections in the correct position. But would this door latch work in the drivers' side door on a RHD vehicle ?

Pierre3.

I am very pleased to have now received a new original drivers' side door latch. Having had a close look at it I now think that when the previous latch was fitted, about 18 months ago, it was a spurious manufacture. The reason I say this is because the plastics on the lock that packed up look a bit different in colour and fit than the new LR item.

Also, there was no label on the previous latch, and looking at the new latch the label looks to be a sort of plasticized material. And it looks pretty hard wearing. I would see no reason why anyone would pull off the original label when fitting it to the car. So, I suspect that the old one wasn't original.

I also got a roll of self-adhesive foam rubber strip of the internet. The piece currently on the door is 25mm high x 25mm wide and about 50/60mm long. I ordered a roll of 25x25mm from a place called Rubber Stuff, and it looks pretty good.

All I have to do now is [1] hope that the weather improves; and [2] refit the new door latch !

Pierre3.

Richard, I would agree with you. I thought it unlikely that it would be a "part number" due to its make-up, it is only a piece of foam rubber about 20mm wide x 25mm high x 50mm long. I'm not actually sure what the thing does but it is glued on with RTV.

I am going to order a roll off the internet, which comes as 20mm wide x 25mm high x 2metre roll, costing around £7. I can't find anything of these dimensions on the websites of DIY stores here. I want to get a foam rubber, or neoprene rubber, as similar in make-up as the one currently on the door, just in case it performs some really important, but unknown, job !!!

I would imagine that the manager at LR, with responsibility for production, probably just rang a local motor factor and ordered 50 boxes of a foam rubber, self-adhesive, strip to go under the door card. So therefore no official part number.

Pierre3.

hi, I am looking for a foam rubber filler piece that sits behind the drivers' side door card, on the top front edge of the door. It could be something that will have to be made up of other materials but I would be interested to see whether there is an actual part number for it.

Perhaps someone mave have a suggestion for another type of foam rubber to make it up, if LR don't have it.

Pierre3.

Nigel, I have used Rimmers quite a number of times and, as you have noted, the fact that they have a system whereby they can include duty and taxes in advance, on their invoice, is very handy. Being in Ireland it saves having to wait on delivery of parts while an Irish based courier deals with the customs and needs to be paid up front before delivering goods. But I also buy from British Parts, in Belgium, as then there is no delay in delivery as the company is in the EU.

Richard, thanks for a really comprehensive explanation of the VIN numbers. I hadn't realised that there would be so much information contained therein ! One thing that I would think may be incorrect is the last line about the part number for the drivers' door latch. The part number listed looks to be for a LHD car. I checked with British Parts and they then went to LR in the UK and it appears that the part number that I need is FQJ103220. I have a RHD car being that I am in Ireland. But, again, thanks for the VIN detail information.

Pierre3.

Thanks, Richard. I am going to buy a new one and hopefully that will sort out the problem.

I am surprised how noisy the vibration noise is !!

One other question, if you happen to know the answer - I buy my parts from Landrover in Belgium as this saves any extra duty when arriving in Ireland, although, admittedly, I am paying it in Belgium - but looking at the description for the drivers' side door latch, RHD, there are a number of different part numbers. Is there any chance that you might happen to have a listing for a 2001 P38, with the VIN nr. being W3 1 A452327 ? I read through an older post where you listed the various VIN numbers and the relevant years, but on the LR Direct website there is no part number relating to a VIN 1A452327.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would just like to check with the members here, about the drivers door lock acting the maggot again.

I thought that I had the lock issue sorted, after the rod connected to the rear of the key barrel became disconnected. I sorted it out by fitting a new rod locating spring fixer.

However, today I went out in the car, and pulled into a garage to fill up. And what happened - I closed the drivers side front door, to fill up, and the door just bounced back open. I immediately knew that the latch was faulty, again.

The difference this time is that the lock, or latch, is vibrating or buzzing, really loudly, when I unlock the car with the remote keyfob. As with the last time, neither the inside pull handle, the key barrel, or the outer door handle don't release on the drivers' door. Only the passenger door, the two rear doors and the tailgate, for a second or two, just long enough to get those doors open.

Am I right in guessing that the door latch has packed up this time ?

Pierre3.

I had a water pump fail, last summer, so I replaced the pump and the thermostat and I was happy that the temperature gauge is now content to sit at the centre position [i.e. dead vertical] whatever the conditions. I happily refilled the coolant reservoir with pink OAT coolant and went on my merry way for a few days, before rechecking the coolant level.

As I had drained all the coolant, I have a 2.5 diesel, and refilled it I expected that there may be a bit of settlement of coolant as all the bits and pieces refilled over time, but I was a bit surprised to find that there was no coolant in the reservoir at all. I refilled it, drove about some more, and rechecked it, again to find that the reservoir was almost empty.

Looking around the back of the radiator, and under the the car I could see quite a bit of coolant lying on various pipes for power steering, oil cooler etc. etc. so I thought the stupid radiator has cracked after the water pump failed and the temperature rose up into the red on the gauge.

So I bought a Direnza radiator and fought to get that fitted. It took a bit of pushing and shoving but went in satisfactorily in the end. Again, I had drained the coolant so I went about refilling the system again. And again I drove about for a couple of days before rechecking the coolant level, and again the bloody reservoir was almost empty. I couldn't find any leaks around the engine, and there was no obvious signs inside the car.

But, I had had the drivers' seat out of the car a few months ago, to fit a new sponge seat base and I had had to pull out the fir tree fasteners from the seat base surrounds. I decided to put them back and while doing so I leant on the drivers' side footwell carpet and felt that it was wet. A closer inspection revealed pink coolant sitting on the carpet, under the heater matrix, and on the drivers' side.

It turned out to be a leaking matrix, so I bought a new one along with the O-rings and got a garage that I deal with to do the refit. I have also just replaced the two idler pulleys, the belt tensioner, and fitted a new fan belt.

I haven't driven the car since the heater matrix was replaced, and I had to drop out quite a bit of coolant to get the viscous fan out, and take off the radiator hoses. Despite what some websites elsewhere say there is no way to replace the pulleys and fan belt without removing the fan and the fan enclosure, no way.

So now I have replaced the idler wheels, the belt tensioner, the fan belt, the viscous fan, the heater matrix, the water pump, and thermostat. All I hope is that the carpet now dries out fairly quickly. One thing though - while the matrix was leaking inside the car I never had the windows fog up due to moisture inside the car. Perhaps because it was coolant leaking and not water.

Pierre3.

I'm pleased to say that the weather stayed well enough to get the idler pulleys, the tensioner, and the fan belt changed. There was some rattling and squeaking going on when the engine was started but I am happy to say that the noises have now gone. Silence is golden !!

When I took off the tensioner I noticed that the lower rubber bushing, where the bolt passes through, wasn't !! It seems to have disappeared. I have a feeling that the tensioner was allowing the belt to run slightly loose so replacing it obviously has its benefits.

The pulley wheels seemed OK but they were very black. The bearings still seemed to be in one piece but I would think that they haven't been replaced for years, if ever !!

Pierre3.

Mad-as, thanks for your information.

Richard, I came across that post from "seattlesteve" yesterday !! And I agree, I would use mastic rather than silicone sealer, or just RTV perhaps. I remember reading stuff on this ages ago, and one guy suggested using a plastic clear paint spray. This would seem a good suggestion as the spray would be very thin in application. And I would hope that it would last, as well.

Pierre3.

Richard, thanks for your information. Do I need to take off the windscreen top trim ? I read a post elsewhere where the OP said to start at the back of the car and work your way forward.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would like to ask for more advice, this time about removing the roof rail finishers to check for a water leak.

I park the car facing forward on a slight downward incline, and leaking slightly towards the passenger side [RHD]. I noticed water marks on the sun visor, and SWMBO said that the roof lining above the visor is wet. With the way that the car is parked the rain almost certainly runs across the roof, towards the pass. side front corner and therefore runs down the roof rail finisher trim.

I had the sunroof out last year and I know that the drains are clean, in fact I checked them around last August if I remember correctly. Because of where the roof lining and sun visor are wet I am suspecting that te rain is getting in through the roof sealant. Therefore I want to take off the roof trim.

I have been led to believe that it is supposed to be fairly easy, getting the trims off, but I have also read that you need to remove the windscreen top finisher first. Is this the case ? I have seen pictures of there being a slide on trim clip for the windscreen top finisher, and from pictures they appear to slide on to pegs on the bodywork just above the windscreen. How is the best way to get this top finisher trim off ? Lastly, are those trim clips still available or have they gone NLA ?

Pierre3.

Richards' white P38 looks very well considering the mileage. Keep it going there, Patsy !!!!

I am pleased with myself for doing a necessary job, this afternoon, while the weather was pretty fair. I replaced the idler wheels, the belt tensioner, and fitted a new fan belt. Now the old thing no longer squeaks, squeals, or rattles when it starts up and goes to tick over, it's now nice and quiet. I did find that the lower bolt connection on the tensioner was actually worn and it was loose. So I would think that the belt wasn't being held as tight as it should have been. Anyway, it's happy with itself now.

Just a leak from the roof somewhere to sort out. My guess would be the roof rail runners, as the leak appeared after leaving the car parked, front down, and slightly tilted over to the passenger side. It doesn't seemed to have happened when being driven as it hadn't been driven for over a month and there wasn't any sign of dampness before last week. Oh well, hey-ho, get the wellies out !!!

Pierre3.

Problem solved. It turned out that the locking rod, connected to the back of the door handle key barrel had come out of the spring retainer.

Pierre3.

OK, I have solved the door locking problem. I managed to get the drivers side door open, luckily I guess, by getting a piece of steel pipe, putting it on top of the plastic body of the lock and giving it a whack. It didn't do any damage to the lock but I heard a click and the door handle on the outside suddenly released the door. Result !!!

I have no idea what caused the lock to release, but when I opened the door, pulled off the door card and water shedder I put a torch in and found that the rod from the back of the lock barrel had fallen out of the spring clip that is on the lock barrel arm. The spring clip had opened slightly and it was enough for the locking arm, to the door latch, to pop out and set the BeCM in the lock condition.

As luck would have it I had bought about 6 of these funny spring clips about two years ago so I was able to get everything back working as normal. I am very pleased not to have to shell out for a new latch. And it looks like the garage guy did actually fit a new latch after all !!

So everything is now corrected, the keys lock and unlock the doors, and both key fobs lock and unlock the doors, all having normal service restored.

Pierre3.

Hi Richard, I will check the inner door cable this morning. But, I don't think that is the problem because I can feel the handle pulling on something when I try to open the door from inside. I did fit a new cable last year, after the end at the latch, pulled off. I also fitted new plastic clips, and a new outer handle release rod, plus the funny little metal clip that holds the rod to the back of the key barrel.

I do suspect that it is down to the micro-switches. The sequence of events would lead me to this conclusion. I used to lock the car with the key because I have recently been concerned about the key fob locking me out due to stray radio signals. So, I would lock with the key, but last Friday, after three weeks not being used, I found that only a new key fob would unlock the car. The keys had no resistance when being turned so the latch was not responding to the turn of the key. However, the inside door release worked fine.

Finally, yesterday I opened the car door, it was not locked, and went for a drive. The door opened from the inside when I got out, and I closed the door, and everything was OK. I didn't lock the car. But I went back to the car as I had left something in it that I wanted. The door opened OK, I collected said item, but as I closed the door it suddenly locked and the door was at half latch, so not fully closed but not open either. However, I could no longer open the door. Neither from inside or outside. Even when I pressed the remote and the door lock button hopped up the door stays locked.

The only way in is from the passenger side. Both rear doors will open briefly, as does the passenger door, which allows me to get into the car, but the locks almost immediately return to lock condition. So I press the remote, jump into the car, close the door and all the locks and the boot are then locked.

This looks like the very same thing when the micro-switches stopped working, about a year ago, and I had to have the car towed to e RR repair guy that I knew. It was he who fitted a new latch at the time, but I did always wonder whether he fitted a new latch, or one that he had from a scrapper in his yard, who knows ?? The only difference between now and then is that the alarm kept going off the last time, whereas this time, when I open the car with the key fob the doors open, except the drivers door, but the alarm doesn't go off, and I can start and drive the car, which I couldn't the last time. The system had the key locked out as well as the alarm going off every time the door was opened.

So that is where I am at, this morning. My main issue is how to get the door open, so that I can take off the door card and see what is going on. But I suppose if I have to destroy the lock by lowering the window then I won't actually know what happened !! At the moment, however, I'm not that concerned about that, I just want to get the door open. So any advice is heartily welcomed. I am standing by with a very large screwdriver in hand.

Pierre3.

Hi guys, sorry about this but I need more advice ! I posted earlier about an issue with the key not opening the drivers' side door, but the key fob works fine. Unfortunately, I have to look for further help as the problem has become worse.

I went out in the car today and the door, which I left unlocked, opened fine. I traveled about 10 miles and got out of the car, walked away, but then realised I had left something in the car and returned. I opened the door door, which again I had left unlocked, but when I closed the door it didn't fully close but it was locked, as were all the other doors. I couldn't open it at all, but, with the remote, I could open all the other doors. So long story short, I climbed in through the passenger door and drove home.

I had someone fit a new latch about 12 months ago, but, looking, back, I have my doubts that it was new. So I am thinking that the micro-switches are acting the maggot, and I now need to fit a new latch myself.

So the biggest problem now is - how do I open the drivers' side door ? I can open everything so I can lower the window. I read a topic here on the forum about getting a metal spike and breaking the top of the latch, but I wonder whether there is clearer advice on how to do this ? Or a video showing how to do it ? I think that Richard [Gilbert] has some good advice and maybe he could give me some more help !!!

All suggestions really appreciated.

Pierre3.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the advice. I will check with the guy selling them in Australia which ones he has. I believe that the ones that he has are in good shape because they are generally dry and warm, with little rain or bad weather getting at them.

Pierre3.