I was looking for information about the power steering pipes, both of which are leaking on my car, and I would like to see if anyone on the forum might be able to help with a possible solution that a supplier has suggested.
Both of mine are leaking, one just a very small bit] and I can only buy one of them new. One of them is no longer available. But, I have a contact in the UK who says that an earlier model power steering pipe is available. He said that he has checked and found that the power steering box and the pump, from an early P38, are the same as the later model, the fixing are the same, but the routing is slightly different. So my question is - can I get the pressure pipe to fit ? The return pipe is available, but the high pressure feed pipe is NLA. My car is a 2001 diesel. Has anyone tried this ? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks for all your help, Richard. I will have to get my guy to put on a ramp so that I can get a good look.
I think that this may be a case of "To be continued" !!!!!
Pierre3.
Looking around the Internet it appears that one of the pipe is NLA. This is listed as "QEP104670". I emailed Island 4x4 who tell me that they have in stock "ANR3383 - https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/hose-power-steering-25td-reservoir-9402-britpart-anr3383-p-4052.html " which is "Hose Power Steering RHD V8 / 2.5TD Box To Reservoir". Could this be the pipe that leaks that you made a mention of earlier ?
I can't find what the description for "QEP104670" is, but if this is the return pipe then I suppose it is a case of buying a used one and hoping that it doesn't leak ?
I noticed a question regarding this on another website somewhere and the poster was advised to try getting a pipe made by a hydraulic pipe company but he couldn't get it done.
Apart from putting a jubilee clip on the pipe, or buying a second hand, unknown quality, pipe are there any alternatives ?
Pierre3.
Richard, thanks for your advice and information. Is there any practical reason either for or against replacing the power steering return hose ?
I have read about the problems with the oil cooler elsewhere on this forum, I think. I will get onto to Maltings Offroad and see if the O-rings that you mention are included in their kit.
Pierre3.
Hi, I am looking for a bit of helpful information, if someone would be kind enough to help.
My P38 failed its annual test in Ireland, and I am looking for the following, but I am not sure if I have the correct number of parts:
2 x power steering pipes [ which looking at a diagram seem to be the two "S" shaped pipes] - tester says that "the power steering pipes are leaking";
2 x oil cooler to gearbox pipes [ my garage guy says that the both seem to be leaking] - Maltings Offroad have an oil cooler plus pipes which I am considering:
Any opinions or comments would be appreciated.
Pierre3.
I see a company, near York I think, called Specialist Cars who always seem to have quite a number of low mileage Japanese import P38's. And they all seem to be on sale for around £6 -£7000.
I had two really nice Japanese imported Isuzu Troopers, long wheel base, back about 20 years ago, and they were fantastic spec. compared to a home grown model. The main issues were having to change the radio, as the Japanese radio don't really pick up much here, they had the speedometer in km's, and lastly, they use an exhaust recycling system which caused running issues using European diesel. I remember blanking a pipe from the exhaust manifold to, I think, the inlet manifold.
If you didn't blank off the recycling pipe you would get large clouds of black exhaust smoke when accelerating.
Pierre3
Hi, karlos01, thanks for that information. Maybe something else which may need to be addressed.
Pierre3.
Hi, thanks for your advice, Blanco. Sorry to say that I haven't been out to check yet, the weather hasn't been very conducive to working out on the drive. I am trying to collect advice on where to check when the weather gets a bit better so all the really useful suggestions posted here will give me a heads-up on what to look for, and how to determine how far I can go myself.
By the way, my engine is a diesel, does that have a MAF sensor ?
Thanks again, for your time.
Pierre3.
Hi Symes, many thanks for your reply and advice.
Just another bit of information - I started the P38 this afternoon. It took three or four turnovers before it fired up, and then the motor ran qute "lumpy", missing every few seconds. The engine was cold, not having been started for a week, but it continued to misfire pretty continously for ten minutes, until I turned it off. I decided not to take it for a drive in case it cut out.
Again, does this sound like the timing chain being out of kilter ?
Pierre3.
Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on ones attachment to work, I am now retired so therefore I don't use a car for perhaps three or four days. I am close enough to a large, local supermarket to walk and not have to worry about parking. But I have found in the past that the P38 gets grumpy if I use the Lexus every time I need to go out.
Nine times out of ten it will show up some kind of error, currently the issue with the leak off pipes, or the timing chain, or the FIP, and also the odd message "Gearbox Fault", which goes away if I move the gear shift backwards and forwards a couple of "clicks". Then, having given me a few unwanted surprises it will be happy for a few weeks, or even months. Now I keep a big stuffed lion on the back seat to see if that helps, to keep the car company, like always keeping two horses together and not one on its' own.
I had the missing pixels on my HEVAC display and I tried the zebra strip repair but for me it didn't work. I just decided to send the whole lot to Marty Cox and I bought a repaired unit from him. That way I could be sure that if there was a problem then it would probably be something else. The display has been perfect for over a year now.
Pierre3.
Symes, will the timing chain on a 2.5 diesel BMW engine be stretched with 117,000 miles on the clock ? I posted a thread on "Oily bits" looking at the same issue - firstly, the engine in mine has decided to become difficult to re-start after running for 20 miles or so [ my other thread says possibly the leak off pipes - I haven't been outside to check this yet], and secondly, the engine stalled just the once when I went to drive off.
Again, my previous thread has suggestions, I think perhaps by yourself and possibly Richard [Gilbertd], that the timing chain has stretched, or the FIP could be knackered.
Both of the last suggestions will mean getting my local guy to start looking. I have no problem doing the leak off pipes, straightforward from what I can see. But is that the simple problem.
What will "Nannycom" show if it is a timing chain, or an FIP problem ? Will I be able to tell if there is an issue with the chain or the injector pump ?
Pierre3.
I think P38's get tee'd off if you don't get them involved in something nearly every day.
If they see you using another vehicle I think they decide to get a hump on and develope a fault immediately. If you take them out for a little run, much like a boxer dog, then they are quite happy and they know that you do really like them !!!!
Pierre3.
I do know that the rear door main seal, around the window, that starts to bubble up under the rubber is still available. I bought two for the rear doors on my car last summer. The seals had started to bubble where the enclosed metal frame inside had obviously gone rusty. They are a little bit awkward to replace, I had to take off the door inner panels. And the seals need firm stretching into the window door frame to correctly fit into both top corners.
I haven't had anny issues with the front doors. But I did fit a new tailgate seal the year before last, and I used black RTV sealant squidged down the "V" gap of the seal where it is mounted to the metal bodywork, to prevent water getting around the seal. I have had no water ingress since however heavy the rain has been.
Pierre3.
Thanks for your post, Richard. Unfortunately it is raining here in Ireland at the moment, so I am not venturing out to inspect the leak off pipes. Hopefully the weather will improve over te weekend.
Pierre3.
Hi, thanks Richard, Symes, even more things to be concerned about !! I thought that I was on the pigs' back replacing the leak off pipes !
I haven't ordered new fuel pipe yet. Richard, is the timimg chain an issue with a diesel, and at 115,000 miles ?
If it is the injector pump then I will have to put it into my local garage guy who is good with the P38. I couldn't tackle an injector pump myself, unless I bought a new one ! I have a feeling that a new injector pump is likely to be hundreds of pounds, if not into a thousand.
Pierre3.
Thanks karlos01, yes, I see what it does now. A guy on the P38 Facebook website has sent me a link to a guy who sells them, down in Devon. At around £48 I might just buy one for the added starting security.
Pierre3.
I asked the question on the P38 Facebook website and a couple of guys have suggested that the problem could be the leak off pipes on the six injectors, as well as the feed pipe to injector 1. Seemingly a give away will be some fuel at the base of the injector.
Just out of interest, does anyone know anything about a unit to make the heater plugs come on every time the engine is started ? I am not sure that this is necessary as the engine has always started first time before. The idea is suggested because, apparently, the engine "brain" detects when the engine is hot and therefore doesn't switch on the glow plugs.
I do suspect, from what people have suggested, that replacing the leak off pipes may be the answer. So, a job for later this week.
Pierre3.
Hi, thanks for the advise. It gives me a few ideas of where to look.
BrianH, the fuel filter has been removed for some months. I changed it last April while the weather was good.
I would agree about the issue being a fuel problem. It does sound as if the fuel is falling back to the tank, a bit like old petrol car when the lift pump was working properly. It would make me think that something like a plastic fuel pipe has suddenly cracked or split or something after 20 years, [ I am making the assumption that the clear pipe, mentioned, is plastic].
Thanks again. I will post any resolution back here.
Pierre3.
Hi, I wonder whether someone might have an idea why my 2.5 diesel P38 has suddenly decided to become difficult to restart after turning off the engine for 5 or 10 minutes. It has been fine up until yesterday when it was difficult to restart after being parked for 10 minutes.
The engine was at normal temperature after a 20 mile journey but when I tried to restart it the motor just kept cranking until it eventually spluttered into life. I am fairly sure that I pre-heated before I restarted. I did notice, earlier in the day, that occasionally, on tickover, that the engine would seem to miss every now and again which has not happened before. After spluttering to restart the engine ran smoothly as normal.
Also, something that has never happened before was that the engine suddenly cut out as I moved the gearstick into "Drive". I pre-heated again but I had to crank the engine over for maybe 10/15 seconds before it fired and even then it just spluttered into life. But everything ran fine once it started.
Again, I noticed, this morning, that when being started for the first time today the engine did a couple of missed beats while ticking over, but, again, after a quick rev of the engine it seemed to be OK. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Pierre3.
Morat, the VAT is charged on everything from 1 cent upwards. The threshold you refer to is the point at where import duty starts t be levied for personal imports, and it is currently set at €150 for any item.
Under €150 you pay VAT on the purchase price [converted to Euros], plus the shipping cost [converted to Euros], and finally the courier admin costs for the customs declaration. VAT is added to the end figure, whether it turns out to be €10 or €149.
It's all money in Revenues coffers, and we have to pay it !!
Pierre3.