Oh, Richard, I forgot to ask - looking at Nanocom's emulator there appears to be an option to turn off the dashboard warning lights. As the vehicle is due an annual car test next Monday will this option allow me to switch off the dashboard warning lights to get through the car test ?
Pierre3.
Hi Richard, thanks for your reply. So that clears up my question about Wabco.
I was reading Martin Cox's information on his P38 website, where he discussed the ECU, and I saw that he said the same thing as you about the message - "'Rear Right sensor short to another sensor" - or something similar. I did look at Nanocom's emulator on their website and I can see where you have explained the page on the reader.
What is strange, and I haven't been under the car as I don't have a garage to get into and the weather is bleeding cold, is that, so far, I have been able to clear the fault message by using the EAS switch to lift and lower the vehicle when the message appears. Also, if I clear the message by doing the suspension lift and lower the message stays away - until I leave the car parked for two weeks or more. If I have driven the car at least once a week it seems to stay away, until something unusual happens.
I am wondering whether this is a loose connection or a damaged cable. There hasn't been anything done under the vehicle except for a gearbox oil change about 5 months ago, but the ABS message didn't appear until about 3 months ago.
Pierre3.
Hi, I would like to ask for some advice/instruction from members who have a good knowledge of using a Nanocom.
I have the known message about ABS/Traction [control] Failure fault on the dashboard. I finally decided to buy a Nanocom, and I would like to ask where I would find the section on the Nanocom that deals with the ABS/Traction Failure ?
I know that I need to go to "R Rover P38" - "EDC", but then the next menu lists two types of what I presume are the values for ABS systems, Wabco C and Wabco D.
Where would I go at this point ? Perhaps someone could tell me if there are specific values to be aware of, or will Nanocom just report a fault as "Fault" somewhere ?
Pierre3.
Hi Richard, very many thanks for your information. I hadn't really understood the chassis listing criteria before. I had always thought that the numbers, as you have shown, were refering to the last eight numbers and letters of the chassis number itself. So I am pleased to have learned something really useful this evening 😀.
Pierre3.
Richard, thanks for the link. The only reason that I was asking for the part number is that when I look up the part number using the chassis number I can never find my chassis number. The short entry for my car is 1A452xxx and the Russian list shows chassis numbers starting as "VA" or "WA" or "XA" or "YA". I can't find anything that lists my chassis number series.
Interestingly, when I rang the main dealer about the EKA code he initially said that he couldn't find my chassis number, and it took him a few minutes until he did find it. It's as if there are a different series of chassis number for late built P38's.
I guess the only sure way to tell if I have the correct door latch is to take it out first and then look for the right one.
Again, thanks for the link to LRCat.
Pierre3.
Thanks, guys, for all your help.
Re: the weird key fob behaviour where the fob will lock the car but not unlock it - I agree with Richard that using the key blade is probably the answer when I go to this particular business park. As Richard suggested, putting the fob beside the receiver at the rear window, I did try this once and it didn't seem to work. I will just remember not to use the fob in future.
I agree about Youtube, there is a lot of stuff posted by people who think that they know what they are doing when, in fact, they haven't a clue. They are just parrotting crap that they have heard from other people, which was incorrect in the first place. I think that is why forums like this are important, because of the number of members who have real-world experience and ban debunk the drivel.
Just out of interest, what is the correct part number for the passenger side door latch ? Just in case I need to order one !!!
Pierre3.
Well, I don't know - Imgur is now working again after I created a new album with no images in it !!!
Nanocom NCOM06 Evolution [below, obviously !!];
Pierre3.
Blanco, I have been looking in Google for the location of the OBD port in a standard UK/Ireland P38 and Youtube shows it somewhere onder the panel that is underneath the steering wheel. Unfortunately, Imgur isn't letting me upload pictures so I can't post an image from the Youtube video.
Perhaps you could take a quick look at the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svseSyoN8T8
I have a feeling that Richard [Gilbertd] said to me a while back that the port is somewhere beside the steering column, under the plastic facia panel.
Pierre3.
Hi Blanco, I thought that the plastic trim panel under the glovebox went tight onto the carpet on the passenger side. I had to fit a new glovebox ram thingy last year and I thought that I had to remove a trim section below and behind the glovebox.
Unfortunately, I can't look at the moment as my eyesight won't let me see from Dublin to Wicklow [!!!!🤣] so I will have to wait until I get the car back.
Is the OBD port, what is called, "hiding in plain sight" ?
Pierre3.
Oh yes - Richard, thanks for the part number for the drivers' side door latch.
Something else that I noticed - I never did pull out the passenger side under dashboard trim panel to look for the OBD port !!! So currently I haven't found it.
I have been thinking about a Nanocom. Is the handiest one the NCOM 06, Nanocom Evolution ? I would upload a picture but Imgur seems to be acting up, it is just sitting telling me that the picture is uploading, but nothing has uploaded. I have tried it 4 times without success. It is usually really straightforward but I wonder whether there is an image limit if you are using the free programme.
Pierre3.
Hi guys, thanks for all the replies. I rang the main dealer [Joe Duffy in Dublin] and the service manager gave me the EKA code, which confirmed that I have the correct code. Thanks for you guys who said that the main dealer should be able to give it to me. I was a bit surprised, however, that I got the code without an argument about the ownership of the vehicle !!!!!
I have had the vehicle lifted and taken to a well-known Irish Landrover guy, Kings of Wicklow. He has done work on the car before and he said that, as mentioned here, that the problem is most likely the door latch. I will probably bite the bullet and pay for a new latch from Rimmer Bros. I would like to buy a repaired unit from Marty Cox, to support smaller companies, but Kings probably won't like fitting a repaired unit due to "warranty". If I was doing it myself then I would 100% buy from Marty. I have one of his repaired electric window switch consoles which has worked perfectly for ages so I wouldn't have a problem buying from him again. But, unfortunately, it won't be my decision, I will just have to go with Kings decision.
Thanks to Blanco for the offer of the use of a Nanocom, that is much appreciated. Where the vehicle stopped being co-operative there was a couple of guys with a cherrypicker repairing a shop front sign. One of the guys came over to me when he saw me trying to get the motor going, and told me that a friend of his also owns a P38 and had similar problems. This other guy rang me this evening and we had a long chat.
It seems that he has 3 RR's, 2 P38's and an L322, and he is in the process of stripping a BMW 530D to remove the engine to fit into a manual 4.6 P38. He seems to be a bit of a mad guy from Scotland, but he did offer to come across the city with his Nanocom if I was still in trouble. He sounds like a funny guy !!!
So, at the moment my vehicle is in the tow guys compound, to go on a little jaunt tomorrow.
One last thing of interest. When the EKA wouldn't work last evening, and the alarm kept going off whenever I opened the door, I tried the code again this morning, and after the third attempt the alarm stopped triggering when the door was opened, but the dashboard still showed up " Press remote or enter EKA". So at least I could get into the vehicle without everybody looking to see what was happening. I don't quite know why this behaviour happened but at least I could work in peace and quiet.
Sorry, a last, last thing of interest. One guy I was talking to, the tow truck guy, was local and he said that quite a number of vehicles that he has gone out to, in the same business park, have done similar things. He feels that it could be either the wi-fi signal from a nearby McDonalds or possibly from one of the big electronics stores located along the front of the centre. I regularly found that if I park near a large B&Q then I can lock the vehicle with the fob, but when I come out I can't unlock it with the fob, I have to use the key blade. Weird, I know.
Pierre3.
Hi, I am looking for a bit of assistance, if someone can help. Where can I get confirmation of the EKA code for my RR ?
I have a card in the service book with the EKA written in, the top section was probably lost between previous buyers. The card in the service book is an original document, and on the reverse side has the radio code written in. Where can I ring to check that I have the correct code if I can't get a garage to plug in a diagnostics to read it ?
I am in Dublin, and I have tried the two main Landrover dealer, Joe Duffy Motors and HB Dennis, but they both say that they don't have the correct diagnostics to plug into the P38. I may need to ring someone in the UK, such as Landrover, to see if I can get confirmation that the code that I have is the correct one. I don't believe that anything has been reprogrammed in the BeCM so the EKA would still the the original, correct one.
This has been caused because this afternoon the car went into EKA lockout - I can't use the fobs to open the car, I can open it only with the key, and then the alarm goes off, and the dashboard display reads " Press remote" and "or enter EKA" or something like that. I have had to leave the car in a supermarket carpark as I can't get it going.
The EKA code is not working but I don't know whether it is because I have an incorrect code or because the door latch has given up the ghost. At the moment it looks like it is a trailor home job.
Lastly, could someone perhaps give me the correct part number for the door latch, please ? My car is a 2001, 2.5 DHSE. I looked at the Britcar website and i am wondering if this is the correct part number for the drivers side front door latch, "FQJ103220 - Lock - Front Door". Perhaps someone could let me know.
Thanks in advance, Pierre3.
If I remember correctly I used 30mm squared steel tube. I am attaching a couple of pictures showing what happened to my side steps.
Not the best pictures, sorry, but hopefully you will get the idea. I cut out the rusted box section with a thin cutting disc on a 115mm angle grinder, and I drilled out the rivnuts and put in S/S bolts washers and nuts, and sprayed with anti-rust spray. I stripped off the rubber step from the steel step, and removed the rubber end pieces. Then I welded in new square box section for the support legs, and just made up a couple of aluminium strengthening plates to support the end piece. I sprayed the underside of the step with black Hammerite before putting evrything back together.
As I said earlier, the chassis brackets were in pretty good shape so I just put a wire brush on the angle grinder and cleaned them off. Then I painted them with three coats of Hammerite after the rivnuts had been drilled out. I was able to slightly relocated the steps fractionally closer to the sill of the car so that the look nice and tight.
Pierre3.
Hi, I looked for new chassis brackets when the passenger side step just dropped off the car when I went to step on it. I found the following:
P38 range rover Original Side Step Running board Mounting Brackets.
The listing says that it is the last one if it still available.
My problem was that the box section mounting arm from the side step itself had rusted through and then broke off. I just bought new box section steel and welded in new mounting arms. The chassis brackets on my car are in good condition, but I did drill right through the brackets and fix the side steps back on with 10mm stainless steel bolts.
Pierre3.
What am I looking for - or missing - except for the fact that there is no cap on the windscreen washer bottle ?
Pierre3.
2000 Range Rover For Sale.
150,000 miles, OK tyres, quite nice inside, bit of a smell of old dog.
Current road test and road tax for the next month or so.
Selling price - £15,000, cash only.
Comes with a FULL tank of fuel, very rare product. Suit serious collector.
Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha. JOKE, OK.
Pierre3.
Hi, Richard, yes, I missed that !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need new glasses.
Pierre3.
Marshall8hp, you are right, they are expensive for two pieces of foam rubber. But, unfortunately, I am a bit anal about things like that. If I can see that it is damaged, or worn, or missing, then I have to replace it. I just hate looking at something that isn't correct. As I mentioned earlier, I spent ages looking for a small plastic clip that fits to the sunroof cloth roof edging and keeps the edge of the sunroof held in position with the metal edge of the actual roof. I eventually found one with a dealer in Belgium.
I bought a new door handle for the driver side front door, a year ago, and after fitting it I found that it stood out too much against the original, faded, door handles - so I bought thrre more and replaced all the other ones. As I say - a bit OCD!!
Pierre3.
Hi, sorry for not replying earlier - I bought two new items from JaguarLandrover Classic Parts.
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/
I'm not sure who else has them.
Pierre3.
Hi StrangeRover, did you buy a S/H unit, or a new one ?
Pierre3.