Thanks again for all the advice.

May I ask - where are the white spider clips ?I don't remember seeing them on the Microcat catalogue. I was thinking that the screws are just black self tappers.

Thanks, Romanrob, I knew that someone had mentioned it.

Could I ask again - does anyone remember seeing the issue of using RTV sealer somewhere around the top of the A-pillar ?

Pierre3.

Hi, thanks very much to everyone for your advice, it is really appreciated. I didn't realise that the screws are under the rubber door seal ! That certainly would make sense, and the job easier.

I have seen plenty of advice about sealing everything with silicone when putting things back together, just one thing that comes to mind - I read somewhere about sealing the top of the A-pillar area ? Is this the screw holes, by any chance ?

Another request - could someone give me the part number for the fittings, screws and plastic lugs, that hold the scuttle panel, just in case of breakages ? I might just order a few from Rimmer's before I start the job. I have looked through the "Ventilation" section of the Rave manual, but there doesn't seem to be anything on how to remove the scuttle panel, and the parts. From what I read I can only find a section about replacing the pollen filters. This is under Section 80, of volume 2 of the workshop manual, under "Heating and Ventilation".

Lastly, I apologise to Symes for suggesting you said just remove one side. I think that I have read so many different explanations from both RR forums that I am getting mixed up about who suggested what !!

I am in the process of asking my local vet if he can help me grow two extra arms, which would help doing this job !! I never know why God didn't design us with extra detachable arms and legs when he knew that we would be mechanics !! I must remember to speak to him about it when I get to the Pearly Gates, probably next week knowing my luck !!

Thanks again.

Pierre3.

Hi, I want to fit a new scuttle [plenum] foam filter and, having read a lot of posts on the pro's and con's of replacing the pollen filters I decided to have a look at the means of removing the panel in front of the windscreen.

I would like to check how to remove the pillar panels that run up the side of the windscreen, the plastic items. I believe that there are screws underneath the plastic covers, and I am concerned that if I try to bend the plastic covers outwards, to get at the screws, then the covers will crack and split. How do the panels come off, so that I can get at the screws underneath ?

I saw some advice [from Symes] to suggest that only one side needs to be removed, as the lower [windscreen] panel slides out sideways, either on one side or the other.

As I say, my main concern is avoiding damaging the panel up the side of the windscreen. I would be inclined not to fit a new scuttle filter if the side panel are going to break.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi Marty, thanks for your help. I think that I may go for one of your rebuilt switch packs. My original switch pack is very tidy so maybe I will go through your website and do an exchange.

Thanks again.

Pierre3.

Hi, I am looking for a bit of advice about the front passenger window not opening.

I had this problem a couple of months ago, but it was intermittent, the window would go all the way down and not return, perhaps for 12 hours, but then a press on the window switch and the window raised back up as normal.

I bought a working switch pack back in November and replaced the existing one in the vehicle, and everything worked as normal. But today the window wouldn't lower. I couldn't hear anything clicking, or grinding, or making any noise at all. All of the other windows are working normally, and the mirror control is OK.

Is this likely to be the switch pack again ? I would find the coincidence a bit strange as it is the front passenger window again. Before I replaced the switch pack all the other windows worked fine, as well.

Is this likely to be the window motor packing up ? It just seems odd that the problem only affects the front passenger window, and not any of the others.

If I need to replace the motor can it be done with the lift mechanism left in place, or does the whole mechanism need to be removed from the door ?

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Pierre3.

Thanks for the information. I have emailed Rimmers so I may as well just wait for them to come back to me, with the same news. Pity, I would liked to have got all four door handles the same.

It looks like I am back to the two options - [1] paint the existing handle, or [2] follow MartyUK's explanation and take the handle apart and fit the best of the old pull part of the handles that I have already replaced. One is quite good so if I can swap the pull section of the handles over it probably won't really be noticed.

I have to fit the well-known spring repair kit so I will have a look when I take out the existing door handle.

Pierre3.

Marty, thanks for your comprehensive reply. It would make sense to order a new driver's side handle with the barrel, if LR still do them matched to the VIN.

As I have always had a good relationship with Rimmers I will email them first, and see what they say.

Pierre3.

One question that I have - I am presuming that the front door, driver's side, handle and lock barrel are totally separate from the remote fob motor, with the exception of the rods attached to the handle.

If one bought a new drivers' door handle then only the key itself would be different from all te other keys, but the fobs would remain the same ? I was considering just buying a new handle and using a new barrel and key, and keep the new key blade in a "safe" place, just in case of emergency. I think I am right in saying that the only time I would need it would be to do the programming of the key fob ? But would it work ?

Does the BeCM just need the door key barrel send the same code [left turns and right turns] and the BeCM recognises the code regardless of the type of key in the barrel ?

Maybe it would be easier to do this rather than try to change the lock barrels from an old handle into a new barrel ?

Pierre3.

Hi Marty, good to hear from you.

I will take out the handle next week, and have a look at it. It probably makes sense to try to disassemble the old handle that I took off the car first, just to ensure that I can get the pull handle part out cleanly, and without too much fuss.

Pierre3.

Good news, and thanks to everyone for helping.

I changed the two rear handles, and the front passenger handle, this afternoon. It took about two and a half hours to do them all, but a couple of problems cropped up.

The rear handles, as advised, were very easy to replace, and took about 40 minutes to do both. Unfortunately, I can't do a copy and paste to put a picture here, but the handles that I needed for a 2001 P38 have a small arm sticking straight out from the back of the handle, and a pair of long nosed pliers are needed to pop the lock mechanism arm off the arm on the back of the handle, and then just squeeze the lock mechanism arm back onto the new handle. As I was advised - easy peasy.

The front passenger handle was a little more difficult, but not much. The only thing was, I did need to remove the door card because the lock mechanism release arm has a "Z" bend head and I could not get it free from the mechanism on the rear of the door handle. I took off the door card and then I could see the release arm connected to the main lock mechanism, in the door, using an orange plastic clip. This just popped off by putting my hand inside the door, and then the handle could be removed.

The only thing was that the new handle didn't have a spacer that is fitted to the screw hole on the handle, and I had to persuade it out of the old door handle. And finally, the threading inside the handle hadn't been fully threaded in the factory, so it had to be tapped so that I could screw the fixing screw in fully. A bit annoying, but nothing difficult.

Fortunately, I had only one clip break on the back of the door cards - one on the top of the passenger front door, up beside the locking button, where there is a metal clip on the door card, broke as I was trying to get the metal clip inside the door frame, but I don't think that it will make any real difference as the panel is held firmly with the metal clip.

So all that I need to do now is fit the spring repair kit to the drivers' door. I think that after I fit the spring repair kit I will have to paint the door handle, because I don't want the hassle of buying new key fobs and then having issues with the metal keys being different etc. etc.

It is probably not possible - but could I take the existing handle apart and just replace the actual pull handle part ? One of my old ones is still pretty good as far as the colour is concerned but would it be possible to split the handle and put the good one in place of the discoloured one ?

Pierre3.

Hi guys, thank you so much for your help.

Yes, all I want to do is fit new door handles because the old one are almost white !! I just want to improve the look of the vehicle.

I will have a look at the manual as well. I thought that the door card had to be removed to replace the rear handles.

I am presuming, having read a lot of posts, websites, etc. that I need to take off the front door cards, particularly the passenger side door, to fit a new handle ? I have read the threads here and on "The Other" website and I know that there is quite a bit involved in repairing the drivers' side handle. I have bought a new spring repair kit [as per the "sticky" on this forum] but it looks like I may have to repaint the handle rather than trying to replace the handle.

Anyway, I will be happy to replace the rear handle first, before I do the front passenger handle.

Thanks, again.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would just like to check a couple of things. In regards to the back door handles, with the door card removed, and the inner covering pulled away, when I look straight at the back of the door handle the only fixing that I can see is a small bolt, maybe M6 or M4, screwed into the plastic of the door handle. What am I missing in regards to taking out a bolt and just removing the handle ?

As I mentioned before, the window motor frame [I think] covers the access to the handle from the inside. I spent two hours looking through the .pdf Rave manual but I can't find the relevant section on the rear doors [or the front doors, come to that !]. I notice that the workshop manual is listed numerically - would it be possible to either send the rear door diagram or else the particular section number so that I could look it up ?

I'm not quite sure what this means "I'm not saying do it, but I've heard of fold drilling pin out the using a new one to lock it in again." Sorry !!

Pierre3.

Hi, is it possible to change the rear door handles on a 2001 P38 ? I took off one of the door cards this afternoon but I can't see any way off taking off the handles. I saw a mention on the "Landyzone" that there is a metal frame that is riveted to the door frame that has to be drilled off and removed before the handle can be accessed.

When I looked inside the door frame the handle fittings seem to be right inside a folded section of the door, and I can't see any way of getting inside this piece of the door frame.

Any advice would be welcomed as I have new handles for the two rear doors, and the front passenger door. The drivers door is a separate issue as it appears that there is no real means of changing the handle and keeping the keys original. I have bought two replacement key fobs in the last two years, and the last thing I want is to find that they are now useless as I would have to fit a new barrel etc.

I am hoping that, even though the handle isn't pulling home fully, the handle will keep working with the key fob until I have to get rid of the motor [thank you Government !!!].

Pierre3.

Hi guys, very many thanks for a quick reply. You are correct about the "programming" - I did mean "synching" the new key fob. I will give it a shot at the weekend [currently quarantined due to being abroad]. I did synch the current, and only [!!!] key fob about a year ago and I just remember that it worked first time.

Again, thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I never got to finish this thread - my RR is 2001 so from reading the posts I am guessing that I need to enter 4 turns to the lock position first, and then start the EKA number by turning the key first to unlock position the required number of times of the first number ?

E.G. If my code is 2424 then I would turn the key 4 times to the lock position - then to the unlock position twice for the first number [2], then to the lock position four times [4] and so on.

Does this sound like the correct sequence ?

Something that I also would like to check along these lines - what is the correct sequence for programming a new fob ? I had to order a new one and it is in my desk drawer as I haven't programmed it yet. I remember it being pretty simple but perhaps someone could just confirm the correct sequence.

Piere3.

I want to check on something that I read about entering EKA codes using the key fob. I was under the impression that, when entering the EKA code, you put the key into the lock and then just turned the key to the locked position however number of times the first number is shown as. in other words, put in the key and immediately turn the key, for example, three times to the locked position, before repeating the operation in the unlocked position. So, if the EKA number is 2462, you would turn the key to te locked position twice, then to the unlocked position four times, then back to the locked position six times, and finally to the unlocked position twice. Then remove the key.

However, I have read a couple of posts elsewhere which says that before you actually start the process of entering the EKA code you have to turn the key 4 times to the locked position to tell the BeCM that you are about to enter the EKA code. Only after this operation of 4 turns to the locked position do you start to enter te EKA code.

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct method of EKA entry ? I have used the codes a few times and I have never "pre-entered" 4 turns to the locked position for the EKA code to work, I just went straight ahead and entered the four numbers using the "lock" and "unlock" sequence, and that seemed to work fine. This was when the key fob wouldn't remotely work because the buttons were duff.

I had better just check, as well, that it is the EKA code that I mean ? The four number code that works when the electronic fob doesn't work, isn't that the EKA code ?

Pierre3.

Thanks so much for a really informative post, at least I can get back to Rimmers and [a] apologise for probably chasing the unobtainable, and [b] asking them to source the correct part [one of which it looks like they correctly sent - and I returned !!!].

I will look up the details according to your VIN tool.

Very many thanks, Pierre3.

Hi Marshall8hp, thanks for your reply. I have sent the details to Rimmer Bros to see whether this information will help.

The big problem is that I don't understand the relationship between the VIN nr. you mention, VA350717, and my VIN nr. SALLPAMW31A452327. I have asked Rimmer Bros if the VIN nr. VA350717 is something that they can look up. Incidentally, my vehicle is 2001.

Gilbertd, when I looked at the Russian website for LRCat I could find the main diagram for the door handles, but if I look at the individual descriptions there is no diagram, it just says there is no pictures available but has the image box which is blank. I was hoping that I could have checked the part number against the diagram, but unfortunately that can't be done. That was the reason for my reply earlier.

The diagram showing the complete handle set definitely shows two handles [left and right] and two significantly different mechanical parts on the inside of the handles, namely the hook-shaped plastic pieces. One is definitely right handed and one definitely left handed. However, I do wonder of Marshall8hp is correct in saying that the same handle is used on both sides after 1996.

The thing is, on the Rimmer Bros site it says that 8126 and 8127 are for vehicles up to 2001, which is the same year as mine.

I was hoping to get the new handles and keep them in the garage until the weather warms up a bit and then strip the doors and fit new handles. Now it looks like I have to strip both rear doors, check the opening mechanism, put everything back and then order the parts. And then do everything again later.

Pierre3.

Hi Richard, thanks for the diagram, I couldn't find that one until this afternoon. I copied yours and replied to Rimmer's as it gave the most obvious view of the parts. I am a bit surprised that Emily [Rimmers] didn't find this diagram herself seeing as she works for Rimmer's and deals with Landrover.

The one pity that I have is that the LRCat doesn't have pictures of the parts. I did notice that the listing for the handles does show American [LHD] models and, separately, American/Canadian/EU descriptions, from which I am pretty sure I have used the correct side for replacement.

The big plus was that the diagram that you posted showed which way the hook is positioned, thereby determining which side is which. It is unfortunate that LRCat didn't apply a different number on the diagram for the two sides, although looking again at the diagram there are three listings under the diagram.

Anyway, many thanks for your help.

Pierre3.

I am trying to find out how to tell which rear external door handles is which from the part number. Also, which way up does the plastic hook, on the back of the handles, go ?

When the handle is fitted does the plastic hook pull upwards ?

I am trying to figure out which handle I need to send back to Rimmer Bros as they have sent me two rear handles but one has a plastic hook fitted and the other has nothing fitted.

Pierre3.