Unfortunately, along with a lot of gently humourous things from 20-odd years ago the snowflakes of 2020 can't accept a bit of a joke. The problem is a joke always has a "victim" so maybe the snowflake generation will be good enough to make jokes illegal !! So no more VW ads, no even the coffee ad with the VW and the car keys.

I saw that Netflix [I don't have any of these pay-for-tv programs] have banned Father Ted, and I assume Bottom, and many other of the old comedy programs will be binned, along with Monty Python and the Holy Grail, and The Life of Brian. Sad days ahead !

I had a look this morning, in between the rain showers, and I see that the drivers side A-pillar has been sealed up at the top, where the panel meets the edge of the roof, and the top of the windscreen, but the passenger side was just as the photo shows, there was no sealer.

Thanks Gilbert, for the explanation about posting pictures.

Pierre3.

Hi, thanks for your help.

I uploaded the pictures to Imgur, and I could look at them there. Then I clicked on the image and where the options were listed on the right hand side [view and edit post], clicked on "copy", highlighted the text in the box, right clicked on the text and "copied" the text.

Then I came back to the forum, clicked on "Image", righted clicked on the box "http://" and pasted the text into the box, and the "OK".

I wonder whether the mistake was removing all the extra text that appeared in the text line in the post after clicking on "OK". There was some text along the lines of "enter description here" or something like that, which I deleted until I just had the HTTP:// address shown.

This then appeared as a link to click on, to see the image.

I am trying an old advert picture here.

OK, I see now what is wrong. I should have left all the text - "enter image description here", and " enter image tile here". Removing the text just leaves a link.

Thanks, Gilbert.

Pierre3.

I hope that this works, uploading a couple of pictures.

I am hoping that there will be two pictures of the A-pillar after being unscrewed and cleaned out, underneath.

I had to glue on the foam rubber "block" at the very top of the panel, and then also the thin, long filler strip which runs all the way down the trim. Also, I didn't realise that the plastic [nylon] "nut-locks" were only a push fit into the bodywork.

(https://i.imgur.com/o8fnfJe.jpg "enter image title here")

(https://i.imgur.com/EkqStED.jpg "enter image title here")

Pierre3.

Gilbert, many thanks for your really good explanation of how to include a picture. I will go the Imgur route as I think Pinterest have too many different threads and heading. I probably wouldn't be able to find my pictures on Pinterest !!!

Again, having looked through lots of pictures about removing the scuttle I think that Harv is right, and the lower trim, on the edge of the windscreen, may not have to be removed. I saw a picture [ was it from Strangerover ?] from a distance, showing the scuttle panel removed but with the windscreen lower strip and the A-pillar panel still in place.

So, to be brief [ !!! :) ] am I correct in thinking that to get at the scuttle foam filter, and pollen filters, you basically do the following:

[a] Remove wiper arms;
[b] Lift off one of the A-pillar panels;
[c] Unscrew the scuttle panel;
[c] Fit new pollen filters;
[d] Fit the new foam filter.

Is this about right ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I would look for some help from the knowledgeable members on the forum, for removing some of the trim when changing the scuttle [plenum] filter.

I took the A-pillar trim off the other day, and cleaned all the rubbish out from behind it. I noticed that the screws are quite badly corroded in the plastic nut-locks or whatever they are called. I have ordered new ones because the rubber seals behind them are not the best and I don't want to leave a place where rain water could get in later.

[A] The question that I have is - how do you take off the black trim piece that runs across the bottom of the windscreen, and sits between the scuttle panel and the windscreen.

I saw a mention of just sliding this trim sideways, after removing the A-pillar trim panel. Is this the case, and will it just slide sideways ? That seems a little too easy, just looking at the trim itself. I had a little pick at it and it does seem fairly firmly fixed. At first attempt I can't quite see how it is going to slide sideways without a lot of persuasion, which will probably result in breaking all the plastic "x" shaped clips, which as everyone probably knows are now no longer available.

Is there a trick to getting the trim piece off, un-damaged ? Does the same piece have to be sealed with RTV silicon when being put back on ?

[B] One other thing - how do you upload pictures ? I saw an answer to this before but I couldn't see how it would let me upload pictures that I have taken. The brief explanation said that I would have to put in a hosting website hyperlink, which, as far as I know, I don't have. On the "alternative" forum, under "image" one can just drop a picture from the laptop or phone and then upload the post. Maybe someone could tell me how to go about uploading an image here, so that I can make a note of how to do it, for future reference ?

Pierre3.

I can concur with Martys' explanation. I find that, occasionally, I lock the car with the fob but when I return after a period [maybe 5 minutes, maybe an hour] the fob doesn't open the car again.

Then I have to unlock the car with the key, but immediately do the EKA reset or else I can't start the car. If I put the key into the ignition I get the message about pressing the button on the fob to reregister the key, but that doesn't usually work, and I have to get back out, close the door and reset the key in the door, and then everything is fine again for a couple of months. It doesn't particularly bother me because I know how to fix the problem when it happens.

My plan about modifying a LHD passenger side front door handle are currently on hold. Firstly, Rimmers tell me that I will be able to get a new RHD drivers' side front door handle with a new barrel, but I will just have to have a bit of patience. And secondly, despite Harv from Canada kindly giving me a LHD VIN [ and thanks to Leolito for your offer to do the same] I didn't get to order a LHD handle yet. It does appear that all the handles are order from JLR, and are not kept on the shelf by anyone.

Interestingly, it is quite easy to buy the RHD passenger front door handle, I bought one along with the two rear handles, but it seems quite difficult to buy a LHD passenger front door handle. Anyway I will wait a while in the hope that Rimmers come through with a new drivers' door handle.

Pierre3.

Hi Marty, I don't know very much about the programming of BeCM's but I do understand the logic behind your description.

I used to do some basic programming for cctv, access control, and automatic doors into buildings and pharma labs. But, and it is a big "but", I didn't write code or write modifications to programs, I used to ask our IT guys to write instructions for whatever function I needed. So I wouldn't be comfortable trying to edit BeCM programs.

The hardware is a slightly different ballgame, as I understand hardware and mechanics much more easily. Again, probably because I used to install all the hardware for stuff like revolving doors, pneumatic doors, and automatic electric doors.

Anyway, to the issue in hand - I rang Rimmers this afternoon and they have assured me that I will get a new drivers' side door handle, complete with a new barrel. The guy said that the order is a back order, but that it will be fulfilled, it will just take a while. But if I don't mind waiting then, apparently, I will get a new handle !

So, I will wait............................................................

Pierre3.

A quick update -

the search for the mythical beast, ALR8124, continues. I am getting into the realms of Monty Python and The Holy Grail now.

I have received an email from Brit-Cars to say that ALR8124 is NLA. They tell me that they contacted their EU partners and they can't find one anywhere.

I have emailed Land Rover Denmark, Landparts Greece, Atlantic Parts [Roverparts USA], and Jaguarlandroverclassic.com as they all have the part number listed as available, but I am not holding my breath. Brit-Cars had it listed as "In stock" but they came back to me with an apology and a refund.

I had a similar problem, last year, trying to find brake calipers for my W124. It took nearly 4 months until I found a company in Germany with some old, new stock in their stores. In this particular case Mercedes used 3 different manufacturers to supply brake calipers but didn't list the manufacturer on the build sheet of the car. And the calipers are not transferable between models. If I had not found the company in Germany then I would really have had to buy a newer pair of calipers along with larger brake discs, and therefore new wheel bearings and brake pads.

And finally, fitting larger brake discs would have meant that the original 15 inch wheel rims would not fit !!!! So 16 inch rims would need to be found and fitted. As it happens, I do have original 8x16 AMG rims fitted, but if I didn't it would have been a real ball-breaker sourcing calipers. I contacted a couple of brake remanufacturers in the UK but they said that they could no longer get the internal seals so they couldn't renovate my original calipers. All fun and games, but very frustrating.

Pierre3.

Hi, thanks for all the really useful information from everybody. My thread really shows the huge advantage of open forums, where so many people contribute.

Gilbertd, thanks for the comprehensive explanation of the BeCM and its operation via the drivers' side key barrel. As you pointed out, the BeCM does need an input from both the key and the door lock which isn't available on the passenger side door handle. Therefore, as I suspected, it isn't really practical to try to install a key barrel on the passenger side door. I don't think that you could get a key barrel, anyway, so it would mean having to use two different keys if you decided to try to do the job.

I will do my best to take pictures when I get the new door handle. If it turns out not to be possible at least I will have the satisfaction of knowing that I will have a brand new front passenger door handle, just in case I ever buy a LHD vehicle !!!!!

Pierre3.

Hi Gilbertd, I am not going to fit a lock on the passenger side of my car, I just want to ensure the drivers' side handle matches all the other handles, and fixes the dodgy return spring issue that may, sooner or later, let the drivers' side door handle pull out of the door.

I have a 1983 Mercedes 500se [W126] and that has locks on both front doors. It has been very useful as I often park the car against a wall, and disconnect the battery so that the central locking, operated by the key on both front doors, doesn't work. Having a lock on the passenger side allows me to lean inside the car and push down the lock buttons on the doors, and then lock the passenger front door with the key.

Anyway, it seems that I have been able to order a front passenger side door handle, without having to provide a VIN, so, provided all goes well, I will be able to modify the passenger side handle to work as the drivers' side handle, and a new one, at that.

To be continued........................... !!!!

Pierre3.

Hi Harv, my apologies, I have only just seen your post. Thank you very much, you are most kind for the PM. I will keep ii "on File" if you don't mind.

I may have been able to buy from Brit Car - unless they come back looking for a VIN.

My most sincere appreciation to everyone, particularly when asking for a VIN.

I WILL let the forum know how this works out !!!!

Pierre3.

Hi, - thanks Gilbertd - I seem to have been able to order the LHD handle from Brit-Car, without a VIN.

Leolito - perhaps hold off on the PM, just for the moment. I really appreciate your very kind offer, however.

Pierre3.

No, guys, I think you have misunderstood my mission !!

I have replaced the rear door, and front passenger door, handles with new items, but the drivers' side is [a] nearly white, and [b] the handle is not pulling in fully anymore.

So I wanted to buy a new drivers' side handle to sort out the problems, and I don't want to rely on a single new remote. Also, the chances are high that the handle mechanism will break and the handle will come out.

As LR are no longer supplying drivers' side door handles, with the correct lock barrel, then one needs to think outside the box.

Having downloaded lots of pictures of LHD and RHD drive drivers' door handles with a lock barrel fitted it shows that, on a later P38 LR fitted handles with the same latch mechanism in the back of the handle. The difference is, is that the latch mechanism [the plastic hook ring where the spring repair kit fits] is fitted facing upright on all handles. If you took a LHD handle and put it on a RHD door then the latch arm [the plastic ring arm] would be pointing down, whereas on the correct RHD handle it is pointing up.

Then - if you look at a LHD passenger door handle, in its correct location, i.e. on a right hand door [whether or not it is a drivers' side or a passenger side, but on the right hand door only] the latch arm will always point upward, exactly in the same position as the original RHD drivers' door handle latch arm.

Therefore, ignoring the lock barrel for the moment, it means that a LHD passenger front door handle will be the same match as the original RHD drivers' side front door handle.

When you look at the way the front handles are made it will be seen that both sides are made with the very same aluminium body, i.e. the mechanism is made with the enclosure for the lock barrel. Using the method posted by Marty a while back it is possible to drill out a small pin in the lock barrel enclosure and split the enclosure. This will allow two things - [1] it means you can remove the lock barrel from the old, original door handle, and [2] it also means you can fit that barrel back into a new, passenger side door handle - using a little skill of course !

Now, having bought a new LHD passenger front handle, drilled out the little pin in the enclosure, refitted the lock barrel, rejoined the enclosure using a very small self tapping screw, you should then have a complete, effectively new, working RHD front drivers' side door handle.

The only job left will be to drill a hole to suit the lock barrel opening, in the plastic cover. I have a large selection of hole saws from my working days, and I would think the lock barrel opening is about 10mm or thereabouts.

Again, sorry about the long explanation, but for a fairly un-complex job it requires quite a complex description.

I don't want to rely solely on a remote as I find my remote seems to go "off-line" sometimes. It will lock the car but 15 minutes later it won't unlock the door, and I have to use the mechanical key to do the reprogram thing.

Also, if the above modification of the drivers' side front door handle works then it can be done on either a RHD car or a LHD car.

Also, I suspect that, technically, you could maybe replace a passenger side door handle with one with a lock barrel, but I don't know if it would work based on the apparent differences in the two sides door locks. Would it unlock - probably not because I assume that it is the BeCM which sends the signal to unlock the doors, and there probably isn't a trigger from the passenger side door to the BeCM.

The only weak point is wear in the lock barrel itself. My objective is that I want 4 door handles, with good working mechanisms, that are all the same.

I looked at handle covers but [a] they wouldn't suit my vehicle, and [b] it doesn't solve the problem of the worn mechanism in the handle.

Gilbertd - It is the door handles that I need to resolve, the actual door locks are OK. I will have a look at the two website links that you sent.

Leolito - do you think that it would be possible to PM your LHD VIN ? I had an email this evening from Rimmers to tell me a RHD handle for my VIN is no longer available.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would like to ask a very big favour of a member with a left hand drive P38, please ?

As members may be aware the RHD drivers' side door handle is no longer available, due to the fact that they come fitted with the original lock barrel, and LR don't supply them any longer. I have been looking everywhere for a replacement handle, with or without a lock barrel but I have not been able to source a RHD handle.

So, after having replaced all the other handles I have found a means of fitting a new handle for the drivers' side but it takes a little work and help from someone with a LHD vehicle.

I believe the answer is - buy a LHD passenger handle. This provides the mechanical position of the latch arm, and also contains the housing block for the key barrel. Having checked the mechanism of my own passenger side door handle I noticed that on the 2001 P38 the only difference with the drivers' door lock is that the actual latch arm [ the plastic arm with a hole in it] is positioned at the opposite side of the mechanism than the passenger side, and, obviously, there is a lock barrel in the drivers' side.

What this means is that the drivers side mechanism, on the RHD drivers' door handle, is the same as the LHD passenger side door handle but with a lock barrel fitted.

The reason that I would like help is that I can't order a LHD passenger side handle without a chassis number. I have telephoned both Rimmers and LR, in Liverpool, and they won't supply me with a LHD passenger handle without the VIN number. Why ? I have no idea, but I would hazard a guess that they know that you can modify the passenger handle to be a replacement for the drivers' side handle for a RHD vehicle.

So, would it be possible for someone with a LHD vehicle be able to PM me with a VIN for a LHD ? I would be most appreciative as, currently I have 3 new door handles fitted but the drivers' door does stand out a bit. It has taken a bit of working out as clear pictures of the different types of latch mechanisms are hard to find, and, as I have already found out, the Rave manual doesn't actually show the correct latch mechanism for a 2001 vehicle. I had to send two orders back to Rimmers until I finally got the correct handle for the front passenger door, even though I had given them the VIN.

The only thing, after fitting the key barrel into a LHD passenger door handle [using advice on a post by MartyUK] is to use a small hole saw to drill the lock barrel hole through the plastic outer cover of the handle.

I know that I could fit a new spring kit to my old handle [ it is not closing in fully, so needs replacement] and then perhaps spray the plastic covers black, but by fitting a complete new handle and fitting the lock barrel effectively means that I have fitted a whole new handle.

Sorry for the long post but I felt a full explanation is required so that if someone is prepared to PM me a VIN at least they know why I need it.

Pierre3.

Hi, and thanks Gilbertd, I think that I will order a few of these, simply because, as you say, they seem to be everywhere in the car. I did the rear boot seal recently, and when stripping out all the rear compartment panels, I did notice that there were quite a lot of these screws round about in different sections.

Pierre3.

Many thanks for the information.

Ref. Leolito - I wonder what the plastic plugs [nutlocks ?] are used for. Interestingly, when I emailed Rimmer's about the screws under the door seal, the ones that hold the A-pillar panel, they said that they don't know anything about screws here - quote "The clip for the A post AWR2174 we have no screws listed."

Ref. Tanis8472 - interesting point about bathroom sealants, I, personally, would only use products for the job in hand, but I think that it would be tempting to use a household sealant if it saved a trip to the motor shop.

Thanks everybody, for all the advice and information. Now I will be OK to ask my local Landrover garage to do the job !!!! Only joking, really, at least now I know what I need, or may need. And what to look for if I make a dogs' gonnads out of it. Hopefully, I won't make the motor into a mobile hot-tub !!

Pierre3.

Again, I want to thank everyone who has replied about this subject.

I think that I probably have pan-head 4mm stainless steel self tappers in my garage [thanks Romanrob].

I am hoping that the windscreen has never been replaced, it doesn't look like it has. Thanks for the advice about sealing it. I have emailed the company that you mentioned, Oliveira & Valentim, hopefully I may hear from them soon. [Gilbertd].

There is someone selling 6 on ebay, but a bit pricey at about £5.50 each, but I may need them as a last resort.

I had a quick look under one side of the A-pillar panel door seal and the screws look pretty rusty. However, that can be deceptive, if I am lucky the body and head may be OK under the rust. I always have a concern when drilling out screws. It's not so bad with a large bolt, maybe M10, but I always find that with screws one usually has to refit with at least one size, if not two sizes, larger, and there's no guarantee then that you can hide them, or that the cover will fit properly because the head is too big. I will just have to see what happens when I have a go at it !

I see that the panel has been removed with the A-pillar covers still in place, in the picture from StrangeRover. How was this done ? Does the lower windscreen strip just slide out sideways, or was it just pulled upwards, off the vehicle ?

When I looked at the exploded diagram of the A-pillar and windscreen fittings there is a small rectangular plug shown;
No image has appeared - is it possible to insert a picture here ? If so, where is the insert image button ?

So, there is a plug shown in the parts diagram as a fixing for the A-pillar panel, what is it for ?

Sorry for the continuing questions, but there just seems quite a few bits that might break, bend, fall out etc. etc. and, as I don't have spare parts in my small garage I want to make sure that I have the information to buy parts if I need them [except the white spider clips !!!].

Thanks, guys.

Pierre3.

Thanks again for all the advice.

May I ask - where are the white spider clips ?I don't remember seeing them on the Microcat catalogue. I was thinking that the screws are just black self tappers.

Thanks, Romanrob, I knew that someone had mentioned it.

Could I ask again - does anyone remember seeing the issue of using RTV sealer somewhere around the top of the A-pillar ?

Pierre3.

Hi, thanks very much to everyone for your advice, it is really appreciated. I didn't realise that the screws are under the rubber door seal ! That certainly would make sense, and the job easier.

I have seen plenty of advice about sealing everything with silicone when putting things back together, just one thing that comes to mind - I read somewhere about sealing the top of the A-pillar area ? Is this the screw holes, by any chance ?

Another request - could someone give me the part number for the fittings, screws and plastic lugs, that hold the scuttle panel, just in case of breakages ? I might just order a few from Rimmer's before I start the job. I have looked through the "Ventilation" section of the Rave manual, but there doesn't seem to be anything on how to remove the scuttle panel, and the parts. From what I read I can only find a section about replacing the pollen filters. This is under Section 80, of volume 2 of the workshop manual, under "Heating and Ventilation".

Lastly, I apologise to Symes for suggesting you said just remove one side. I think that I have read so many different explanations from both RR forums that I am getting mixed up about who suggested what !!

I am in the process of asking my local vet if he can help me grow two extra arms, which would help doing this job !! I never know why God didn't design us with extra detachable arms and legs when he knew that we would be mechanics !! I must remember to speak to him about it when I get to the Pearly Gates, probably next week knowing my luck !!

Thanks again.

Pierre3.

Hi, I want to fit a new scuttle [plenum] foam filter and, having read a lot of posts on the pro's and con's of replacing the pollen filters I decided to have a look at the means of removing the panel in front of the windscreen.

I would like to check how to remove the pillar panels that run up the side of the windscreen, the plastic items. I believe that there are screws underneath the plastic covers, and I am concerned that if I try to bend the plastic covers outwards, to get at the screws, then the covers will crack and split. How do the panels come off, so that I can get at the screws underneath ?

I saw some advice [from Symes] to suggest that only one side needs to be removed, as the lower [windscreen] panel slides out sideways, either on one side or the other.

As I say, my main concern is avoiding damaging the panel up the side of the windscreen. I would be inclined not to fit a new scuttle filter if the side panel are going to break.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Pierre3.