I ordered a bottle of oil Sunday before last.

It was for click and collect.

I didn't hear from them for a few hours (the email said collect from 1 hour) so I went there. I tried calling first but no one answered.

They said their IT system was overloaded and it wasn't sending any orders through. Asked me to come back the next day.

I couldn't make it on the Monday so I went Tuesday. The shop was closed with a handwritten notice saying the shop was closed due to illness.

I went back on Thursday and managed to get my oil.

I got a collection confirmation email (no text) on the Monday. I only found this as I was checking my Spam folder for something else.

Much better than ECP. They're only doing click and collect for essential workers that have ID.

leolito wrote:

You mean that useless foam? Better to use window/glass silicon - the one they use in the shops where they change windshields. Flexible and seals 200%, albeit a pain to remove as it sticks very well.
This reminds me I made this work more than two winters ago and I should follow up on that - have not had any leaking so far, but it never pays to re-check.

I am always amazed at the water ingress capabilities of British-built Land Rover vehicles. Considering the weather you guys get there, one would assume there at Solihull them boys would pay a little more attention to the topic ...

I used to work at the factory in Solihull around the time the L402 was new.

At one point our office overlooked a testing bay. It was like a super high powered car wash that fired water at the cars.

There were a lot of L402's going through that bay with lots of people with puzzled faces pulling off bits of bodywork and interior trim.

One the one hand, the guys at the factory know they're supposed to be making watertight vehicles. On the other hand, they're no good at it!

This is a test gauge only, not a permanent one.

The plan was to check the pressure and make sure it's up to spec and put the stock sensor back in.

You'd need a T piece to run a permanent gauge as well as the sensor.

The Nanocom is working :)

I do need to go back and clean that connector once the contact cleaner arrives though.

So it's up and running again. Nanocom is working now too!

My passenger side window switches seem to be suffering. The front one will go down but not up. The rear one won't go down but makes a noise when I press it up.

My spare switchpack works perfectly but is much older and faded grey :(

Not important for now but I'll have to see about replacing the switches in the switchpack.

Took the water pump hose off and just about managed to get a spanner on it. It was a 22mm in the end.

Then I found out that the oil pressure gauge set I bought from eBay because it specifically stated it included an M12x1.5 adapter didn't include an M12x1.5 adapter. None of the adapters were labelled so didn't know until I found none that fit.

Back on went the oil pressure switch and water pump hose, in went the battery and I started it up.

Ran it until the temp gauge was bang in the middle. No overheating but I think it needs a bit more bleeding - the LPG system never came up to temp. No leaks and, most importantly, no oil pressure warning light!

I'm not completely sure it's fixed as the temp gauge is for the coolant temp rather than the oil. There's a chance it might come back on when engine is out under load and temps increase a bit more.

Need fuel, tax and insurance next.

Can you remember what size socket?

I think I might just suck it up and take the water pump hose off. I think I should be able to get a spanner on it then.

Thor V8.

How is it done?!

RAVE says remove drive belt tensioner (easy, done), unplug connector (tricky but done) then remove the sensor.

I can't find any way to get any kind of tool on it!

There's no room for a spanner and I can't get a socket on it. Long sockets hit the bracket the tensioner mounts to and short sockets don't go on. Even if I could get a socket on there doesn't look to be room to get the ratchet on.

I'd like to avoid removing the oil filter or the water pump hose if possible. I'm connecting up an oil pressure gauge so it all needs rebuilding again to test and will need dismantling again to refit the switch.

That's a question for tomorrow!

I bought an oil pressure gauge from eBay too. It arrived this morning which was a pleasant surprise - the estimated delivery date was Wednesday to Friday next week.

I'll hook that up and hopefully have a more immediate answer rather than waiting for it to reach operating temperature with potentially lower than ideal pressure.

Yeah, I realised right after posting that I should do that next.

Dashboard comes right to life :)

Bloody Chinesium...

I've confirmed the short to ground with the multi-meter. With one prong on an earth point the purple wire gives 1ohm.

If I disconnect the plug from my radio it shows nothing.

Dead radio? Lovely Chinese electronics...

Ok, so I've unravelled the whole loom in the sill as far as the dashboard. No splice and no signs of a short. The loom continues up in to the dash past the kick panel connectors and short of removing the dash I can't follow it any further.

Does anyone know the route the purple wire takes from here? I think my best option is to figure out all the things it goes to and start testing the plugs for those to try and identify where the fault might lie. I might poke my nose in to the ETM again and see if I work it out. Hopefully it'll be easier now I've got a more concrete path to look at.

I don't mind it being a fault of my own making. It means it's less likely to be something serious like a completely dead BECM and something I'm able to fix myself :)

My car no longer has the DSP amp. I pulled it out a couple of years ago and replaced it with the the door amps as per Marty's process. I did it myself as at the time there were no kits available from Marty.

I'm getting a feeling that the problem might like somewhere in the radio/amp wiring. Crap - there's tons of connections to check there as lots of wires were cut/reconnected elsewhere etc.

I'll check the purple wire back towards the splice and see if there's any issues there first.

Gilbertd wrote:

Pull the two connectors on the BeCM that the feed from Fuse 1 exits out of and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, the fault is within the BeCM, if it doesn't, plug the one at the rear of the BeCM back in and see if it blows then. If it doesn't the dash should now be working and the fault is within the switchpack.

It blows when I connect the plug at the back of the BECM.

If connect the side one and leave the back one disconnected the windows work again.

Gilbertd wrote:

Nanocom should fire up as soon as it is plugged in, it doesn't need the ignition on. To connect to the BeCM, it needs to be off anyway. If you've got power, maybe you don't have a ground?

OBD has earth on two different pins. Black wire and the purple/black next to it.

Gilbertd wrote:

Pull the two connectors on the BeCM that the feed from Fuse 1 exits out of and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, the fault is within the BeCM, if it doesn't, plug the one at the rear of the BeCM back in and see if it blows then. If it doesn't the dash should now be working and the fault is within the switchpack.

The Ascot was also covered in mould inside when I started on it a few weeks ago, purely from sitting outside over the winter. Most of it simply wiped off with a damp cloth although I did need to use some proper leather cleaning stuff on the seats.

Gilbertd wrote:

In fact, thinking about it, the cover over the sunroof had been left open on the Ascot and when I first got in it I got drenched from the drips of condensation on the inside of the sunroof glass. That would drop down straight into the switchpack.....

I'll go test this later this afternoon. I have a spare switchpack in the shed to try too.

Tested the OBD plug. 12V at the fuse box, 12V at the kick panel connector and 12V at the OBD connector.

Still no life from the Nanocom in key P1 or P2. Turned the key to P3 to check but the jump pack clearly didn't have the power for up the engine. Lots of clicking, the horn honked and not much else. Switched it off at the point.

The kick panel connector looked a bit corroded:

Gilbertd wrote:

Although there's 4 windows and door outstations, the common thing there is the switchpack, if that has no power then none of them will work. The BeCM is responsible for supplying power to them but if you have power at fuse 1, and on both sides of it, the break is beyond the BeCM. Permanent live power to the switchpack comes from pin 8 (Purple/Blue wire) on C1290 at the BeCM while power to the instruments comes from pin 7 (Purple wire) on C1276. C1290 is a 12 way white connector that is down the side of the BeCM next to the transmission tunnel, while C1276 is the 10 way white connector on the back of the BeCM (the only one there and accessible from the rear passenger footwell. Both of these are fed from fuse 1.

I took the seat out for access and tested these. No power on either of them. I checked the fuse and tested both of the contacts on the top of the fuse. It only had 12V on one of them. I pulled the fuse out and found it blown. This is odd as I was still getting continuity across the test contacts! This continuity was why I assumed the fuse was good. I'm now wondering if I was testing the correcting wire when I said the white/pink had power. I'm certain I was though.

I put a new fuse in and heard it pop instantly.

Martyuk wrote:

The OBD socket is powered from a 5A fuse in the underbonnet fuse box. It then goes through the infamous 'kick panel' connectors in the RHF footwell and then on to the socket. It's a solid Brown wire from memory.

I'd check both of those first for the OBD power, and then check the pins at the connector itself, as it's also known to get corroded.

I've not checked the OBD wiring yet

Martyuk wrote:

Does the white/pink wire STILL get a connection when the ignition is in P2? It should have connection in P1 and 2, but not P3?

The white/pink wire now has no power at any key position. As I replied to Richard, I found fuse 1 now blown and blowing as soon as I put a new one in.

Martyuk wrote:

As you turn the key to P1, do you get a 'click' from the BECM (as it turns a relay on?)

Yes.

Martyuk wrote:

Also, you can check an output from the BECM to the underbonnet fuse box - you should get a connection to ground when the key is in P1 on the white/light green wire on the 16way Green connector on the front edge of the BECM (pin 8)

No power on this wire at any key position.

Martyuk wrote:

Though chances are it's probably all OK, as the switchpack gets a permanent 12V feed, and if that isn't working, then whilst it could be a faulty switchpack and a coincidence, the fact the cluster doesn't work aswell, kinda points a bit to a BECM issue - as they all communicate with the logic board.

Would this tally with the repeatedly blowing fuse?

Martyuk wrote:

I'm about at home at the moment (still... funnily enough!) and if you think it is internal to the BECM and want me to take a look, then I'm happy to. It might be repairable - or I have other logic boards here if is isn't and needs cloning to another one. But that would be worse case scenario - it could also be something really silly like a broken track on the logic board (which once found) needs a bit of TLC.

Any idea of cost both should this be needed?

There was no visible corrosion or discolouration to any of the plugs/pins on the plugs I disconnected. Everything looked remarkably dry and clean given how damp the interior seems to have gotten over winter. Having crawled around the car more I don't think the mould/damp is as pervasive as I initially feared. The front carpet in both footwells is definitely in need of a drying out though. The mouldy stuff looks mainly concentrated on the kick panels where they're covered by the doors, on the dashboard and in the central cupholders. There's a slight bit on the front seats and on the seatbelts but I think it will clean up a lot easier than I thought! That's something positive I guess.

The battery has been removed for well over a week now. Prior to that it was completely dead for several months.

At the moment I'm testing with a jump pack for ease but the behaviour was exactly the same when I had the charged battery connected.

Gilbertd wrote:

Although there's 4 windows and door outstations, the common thing there is the switchpack, if that has no power then none of them will work. The BeCM is responsible for supplying power to them but if you have power at fuse 1, and on both sides of it, the break is beyond the BeCM. Permanent live power to the switchpack comes from pin 8 (Purple/Blue wire) on C1290 at the BeCM while power to the instruments comes from pin 7 (Purple wire) on C1276. C1290 is a 12 way white connector that is down the side of the BeCM next to the transmission tunnel, while C1276 is the 10 way white connector on the back of the BeCM (the only one there and accessible from the rear passenger footwell. Both of these are fed from fuse 1.

I meant I was looking for a central component that tied together ALL of the things that don't work.Radio, windows, instruments. The switchpack ties together the windows but not the rest. The only thing I could I see that did everything was the BECM., There no reason it can;t be multiple, unrelated failures though!

I'll check all those things tomorrow. Cheers!

romanrob wrote:

I think I'd focus on getting power to the Obd connector, then deploy nanocom - switch/ power testing becomes a whole lot easier at that point

I'll have another look through the ETM and see if I can make sense of the OBD diagram enough for me to test it properly.