BrianH wrote:
RutlandRover wrote:
£495 here with a £250 refund if you pass first time!
http://jcoates.co.uk/training/category-b-e/
They have a few locations dotted around the country.
Have a look at the calculator on that website - the £495 is just the test reattempts.
You have opted for the following:
LGV Category B+EYou require the following course components:
Category B+E Course Learn to drive a car with a trailer. 3 days of practical training. Requires Category B licence. £722.20
Total £722.20Would you be interested in the following?
Two additional test attempts at a discounted rate. You will get training and test fees for two extra attempts and if you pass first time you will get a £250.00 refund. (Pass Protection) £495.00
I will say though, there explanation of what you can and can't do makes a lot more sense and for easier reading than the DVLA's wording does.
Good spot, I didn't actually go through to the calculator.
I read the bit on the main page about £495 getting two extra attempts and assumed it meant the course costs £495, includes two additional tests and gives a refund if the extra attempts aren't needed.
It did seem a bit too good to be true!
£495 here with a £250 refund if you pass first time!
http://jcoates.co.uk/training/category-b-e/
They have a few locations dotted around the country.
Might have to skip it and just hope it's ok.
My pressure issue seems to be getting worse and will need sorting ASAP. I was managing stop-start traffic by shifting to neutral so the revs rise but today that wasn't enough. I'm having to shift to neutral and press the accelerator a little to make enough pressure :(
Not sure how or when though! My parts are in the neighbours house as I was out when they came. I've tried a few times since Thursday but they never seem to be there! I'm looking after a toddler on Monday and back to work Tuesday and Wednesday!
Cheers guys.
It's our club trailer containing all the canes and kit for our events. Seems like I can't set up events on my own then as the trailer needs to be collected and taken to each site.
I think it's a no but is someone able to confirm if a driver who got their license in 2006 can tow this trailer using a P38?
I'd have thought the boss of a Land Rover repair place would rub his hands together and cackle with glee when a P38 came in :P
Hmm, sounds like the pump being worn is still more likely then.
Any idea what size the o-ring for the pressure relief valve is? Might as well replace it while in there.
I've just been watching a video on YouTube discussing the front cover. I think it was Atlantic British.
The guy described each part of it and listed a few common issues that arise in that area. One of the parts that he mentioned was the oil pressure relief valve. I figure that its job is to release oil pressure when it gets too high. Is that right? Does it release the pressure by squirting the oil out of the engine or back in to the sump?
If so, if/when it fails could it possible lead to low oil pressure at idle but when the engine revs it produces enough pressure that the sensor reads OK again?
I'm wondering if I've gone a bit overboard with my low oil pressure at idle issue (I've ordered a set of new pump gears and a timing chain kit) and perhaps my relief valve has failed.
There's no procedure for replacing it in RAVE under the Engine > Repair section but it is mentioned in the Engine > Description section. I also can't find a part number for it on the LRCat, Bearmach or Turner Engineering websites.
Is this a serviceable part or is a case of replacing the whole front cover?
That's odd.
When I log in there no posts in any forum since a few days ago!
I managed to create a new account in the end and there's no recent posts on that account either.
I think they're having technical issues.
I can't even register a new account. it fails in the registration process. There's a message saying the submission couldn't be processed.
FWIW, I don't really think they (he?) were blocking us individually. It was mostly said tongue in cheek :P
I've seen that mentioned quite a few times.
It does seem like a great way to get it undone but doesn't seem like it allows me to put the bolt back on. At least, not at the right torque :P
Ah, right. Thought there were four as the official tool has four holes.
Not quite what's being asked but I know guy with several used steering boxes that he's struggling to get rid of.
He's certain they're good. He's had several P38's over the years - some on the road, some bought as spares vehicles and others stripped down to use various parts on trials vehicles.
If anyone wants to try another used box I can put you in touch with him.
He was trying to sell one to me a while ago to keep as a spare, wanted £50 for one. AFAIK he's still got a few so would probably take a bit less than that.
Is there room to get an impact gun on it with the engine in the car then? If so, I might use this as the justification to finally get one...
I've remembered how I did it before. I borrowed a very large chain wrench from someone, wrapped it around the pulley and braced it on the chassis.
I did wonder if just the two lengths of threaded rod and nuts would be too weak. I have a bit of flat bar kicking around somewhere. I could cut two lengths and weld them to the box to allow use of all four holes in the pulley, spreading the load a bit.
To use all four holes I'd want basically want a square measuring 75mm across the diagonals?
Another thought I had was a piece of flat steel bar, 50mm wide or a little wider.
Cut a hole in it at one end for the socket to go through with two smaller holes either side of that to bolt it to the crank pulley.
Some 8mm threaded rod inserted in to the pulley holes and a series of nuts down the length of it to secure it and add some strength. The other end of the thread rods through the bar and a couple more nuts to secure it all together.
Make it long enough to brace against the chassis rail. Might need to strengthen the handle to stop it flexing under load - possibly with some bits of wood on each side and bolted through the bar, a bit like the handle on a kitchen knife.
Clive, could you let me know how far apart two opposing holes are from your tool?
Am I right in thinking the bolt takes a 24mm socket?
Edit: just picked up 2 metres of 50mm x 25mm box section from work for free. Should do nicely and not need the wooden braces!
I've never had much luck using the friction/tension from the drive belt to undo the viscous fan. The crank pulley bolt is a much higher torque than the viscous fan, I think.
I'm wondering about an oil filter strap and some kind of extension to brace it against the chassis rail.
I might have just hit a stumbling block in my plan to replace the oil pump and timing change.
RAVE lists a special tool for holding the crankshaft pulley still (LRT-12-080) but this seems to be rather bloody expensive. For the camshaft gear it just says "restrain" but doesn't list a special tool.
Those of you that have done this job at home, what did you use to hold the crank pulley still? I can't remember how I got it off when I replaced the front cover gasket a few years ago!
Just knocking up a parts list using RAVE as a guide. It says I need to remove the gearbox oil cooler pipes and refit them with new O-Rings, presumably to improve access.
Would number 8 on this page be what I need? http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7252/91708
The diagram looks to be different to the one in RAVE. In RAVE both pipes connect on the side edge of the cooler but in LRCat one is on the front.
I wonder if they've decided that people using this forum can't be trusted to post on their forum and have taken action against usernames they recognise as being active on both?
They do get quite a (well deserved) kicking here :P