I'm not sure I'll have much opportunity to take the whole carpet out - I might have to just try my luck airing it out with the windows open if we ever get a long enough period of sunlight.
And now it's doing it on the driver's side too:
I'm starting think it probably is related to the plenum intake. There's a bunch of screws actually missing from the plenum trim:
To take off the plastic bit covering the plenum foam do I have to take off the black trim on the A-pillars?
I have a new plenum foam to put in and it sounds like an ideal time to fit that, while taking it apart in search of a leak.
Sounds like a trip over one of the pits at work and a prod around with some pokey wire is the first step then.
Looking at the pics and thinking about it some more, the water seems to be dripping off both ends of the black plastic below the glovebox - so the leak could just be in one location (near the transmission tunnel?) and running to both ends.
Cheers chaps.
Plenum cover seals - do you mean the covers for the pollen filters or something related to the plenum foam in the centre of the windscreen?
Those, and blocked sunroof drains, sound reasonably easy to check with minimal dismantling over a weekend.
I have clear, clean water leaking into the passenger side footwell. It's coming down both sides of the footwell:
Here you can see where the drops are falling from:
And here is an indication of just how much water is making its way inside the car:
I'm familiar with the AC vents getting blocked and causing water to drip down the side of the transmission tunnel but not so familiar with the leak on the other side of the footwell. I'm also doubtful that the AC drain would produce that much water over the course of a 20 minute minute journey.
The cleanliness of the water and the fact it's on both sides leads me to think it's not the heater matrix O-rings leaking.
I've only noticed it when it rains, which it has been doing a lot over the last few days,
Are there any common/known culprits for a leak like this or do I need to start stripping out bits of dashboard and pointing the hose at the car?
I keep a rag for checking my oil level and a couple of small hand tools in my box behind the battery.
A mate of mine had codes come up on his Focus for multiple lambda sensors and it turned out to be a blown fuse, after replacing the sensors and finding the faults still present.
Checked the wiring/power supply?
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
RutlandRover wrote:
If the gearbox is taking a signal from the TPS and believing that signal to be true to what the engine is doing and using this information to control the behaviour the gear box, then the cable adjustment would be critical.
If the cable is too slack or too tight then the engine would doing something different to what the TPS is telling the gearbox it should be. You could then end up with mismatched gearbox and engine behaviour and poor gear changes etc.
so in a nutshell, i might be right in thinking my car is better now then?
I think I might need to alter/clarify my statement. Initially, I assumed that the Throttle Position Sensor was reporting the position of the accelerator pedal. Given Sloth's statement about the TPS being on the butterfly shaft, the TPS signal doesn't care where the pedal is. If the cable is adjusted correctly then the pedal should correctly correlate with the TPS signal.
As the TPS sensor is separate from the pedal then a poorly adjusted accelerator pedal cable shouldn't result in mis-matched engine and gearbox data - as the TPS is actually reporting how far open the butterfly valve on the engine is.
I guess an argument could be made for improving throttle response as a poorly adjusted cable would allow the pedal to move for a distance without actuating the butterfly valve. This inactive movement would vary depending on how slack the cable is. It would also mean you could never reach "full throttle". However, it wouldn't result in mis-matched engine and gearbox as the butterfly valve is still working exactly as it should be.
As the TPS is attached to the shaft of the butterfly valve I can't see that it's possible to report an inaccurate reading unless the sensor is missing, faulty, loose or something is snapped inside the sensor or butterfly valve.
I think that if the TPS is in good condition and fitted properly without any damage to the sensor or valve then the gearbox is receiving a correct TPS reading regardless of pedal position. If the gear change is poor then I think there must have been another cause.
I'm by no means an expert about this though, these are just my thoughts trying to figure it out from what's been said here. I didn't even know where the TPS sensor was!
If the gearbox is taking a signal from the TPS and believing that signal to be true to what the engine is doing and using this information to control the behaviour the gear box, then the cable adjustment would be critical.
If the cable is too slack or too tight then the engine would doing something different to what the TPS is telling the gearbox it should be. You could then end up with mismatched gearbox and engine behaviour and poor gear changes etc.
Fitted the latch this evening and it works a treat. Entered the EKA through the door and the remote works perfectly now.
Just need to sort out returning the old one to you now Marty.
I've learned to not expect much from my local dealer.
I occasionally go in when I want something more quickly than I get it from the internet but never really had any joy. I can't blame them for not having readily available stock of everything for a 20 year old car but they sometimes tell me the part number I'm ask for doesn't exist and never has.
So then I go online and order it using the part number and wait for it to turn up.
The other week I wanted a key fob battery cover. The local dealer told me there was no separate part and never had been - I had to buy a whole new key. Ordered one online that turned up in a Genuine Land Rover parts bag.
Can you not jack up and support the front to level it off a little?
New latch arrived yesterday but won't get a chance to fit it until next week some time - heading down to Devon for a long weekend with family.
The fob battery cover arrived yesterday so opened it back up to check the contacts. The contacts all looked fine but I bent them all upwards a little anyway, just to be sure. As expected, the old battery cover crumbled away and new one looks very nice indeed.
Will report back after swapping the latch out.
Orangebean wrote:
the fact that they just turn up ready to fit, makes the best economic sense to me.
Gilbertd wrote:
Nah, go for one of these......
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/5.4_litre/dominator/index.shtml
:P
I'd love to. You're buying, right? :P
I might not - those are somewhat vague memories of reading some threads on the other forum from people that have done engine swaps.
I think other elements of the car need information/signals from the engine to keep working too - like the gearbox. If you remove the engine from the equation I think it gives you problems elsewhere.
I think I need to go outside and give mine a good hug, some kind words, and apologise for the swearing I've directed at it for what are actually very minor issues in the grand scheme of things!
Some of you chaps really seem to have it rough with your P38s.
I do admire the determination though, and I hope you all get everything sorted.
I'll order the one from your website tomorrow. Cheers Marty.