My drivers side mirror only adjusts up and down and not side to side.

I bought a new mounting clip expecting it to be that that's snapped but it's not. It's the little white plastic arm that is attached to the motor.

I've tried superglue and no more nails bit neither of them will fix the tow sections back together again.

I've looked on eBay for a used electric mirror but they mostly seem to be unpainted black plastic.

As mine is painted to match the body, is it possible to remove the electric motor/adjustment mechanism and swap it over with one from another mirror?

Ah, cool. Cheers.

Just doing mine with the STC kits today - what's the trick to getting the roll pin out of the old cam? I can't seem to find a way to remove the cam without removing the roll pin.

Might need to place some blame on me too - I tried editing my post and got a 404 page.

Regarding the issue of working crouched; I'm 28 and working crouched gives me bad back pain and has for as long as I can remember. If I had the opportunity to do something to allow me to work more upright I'd jump at it.

Yeah, it's a PITA to find this connector.

It's for a set of mobile rotary column lifts. The control panel is on one of the lift units and sends a wireless signal to the other three to tell them when it's time to lift or lower a truck.

This one snapped with a truck in the air :(

I've no idea how the tech managed to snap it. The antenna is a good 7 feet in the air on the top of the lift, out of the way of anything he might be doing.

Each unit has a manual override to get a vehicle down in an emergency but it requires four people and good timing to make sure the truck comes down evenly, so we managed to get this one down safely. The lifts are now out of use though, which is causing us problems.

Even the supplier/service agents aren't sure where to get the connector.

I'll order those two from Farnell and make what we need - and tell the techs to be careful in future!

Cheers!

Specifically, an RP SMA female to RP SMA female.

I can lots of connectors with RP SMA female on one end, but not at both ends. I know it exists as I have one in my hand but one of our ham-fisted technicians has managed to snap it.

It's for connecting what looks like a WiFi antenna to one of our workshop lifts. I went in to Maplin and spoke to one of the guys there who looked at it and declared it "unusual" and he had nothing in stock.

I can't find anything on the RS Components website but they don't have one. I can't even find an image of one on Google Images.

It looks like this:

Nanocom says the right hand blend motor is shorting to ground. Richard tested it with the Nanocom by adjusting the temperature and found that the reading/value moved accordingly so it's clearly working. The short must be momentary/intermittent so I think I'll leave it for now and look at replacing it if it becomes a permanent fault and stops something working.

Cheers Richard!

Great, cheers. Let me know when you're on the way and I'll have a pot of coffee ready.

I had stuff stuck in the fans after replacing the incredibly old pollen filters and that made more of a ticking/tapping/percussive noise. It also varied with the fan speed. This is a more constant speed and sounds softer, somehow.

Will have to wait and see what the Nanocom tells us later.

Usually 1-2 but I can go pretty much whenever I like.

Would be good to hook it up if you don't mind?

I have a feeling that the car heard I was thinking of taking the dashboard out for something else is about to "politely" ask me to replace the blend motors while I'm there.

Now that I think about it, I have been hearing something that sounds like a chorus of crickets from various parts of the dash lately. A kind of "chirping" that happens occasionally. Blend motor noises?

For the last few days I've noticed the little book symbol appearing on the climate control screen. It's not there when I start a journey but usually is by the time I reach my destination. Not always though and it goes away if I turn the car off and back on.

When the book appears I seem to still have full climate control functionality. The air con still works and gets very cold, the heater gets very warm, each of the air direction buttons works and the heat everything/demist button still works.

So, I've no idea what the light is telling me as it all still seems to work - any ideas?

My dad had one when I was a kid, I really liked it. What I'd really like is a Lynx Eventer bit they're a bit rare (and pricey!) :(

I'd love an XJS.

There's a Jag specialist in Peterborough that has rather run down XJR-S in their yard that looks like it could do with a loving home. Bit out of reach for me though.

Maybe I'll teach him how to use a socket set nice and early and he can pitch in

It is....but I have 6 months off. I should be able to find a little bit of time for this :P

Bloody thing is leaking again...

Given the timing with the heavy rainfall last night and this morning, I think it must coming from somewhere outside the car - right?

I think it's time to take the dashboard and blast the entire windscreen area with a jet wash and try to see where it's getting in. Can pre-emptively replace the heater o-rings while I'm in there, empty out any remaining water in the vent pipes, reposition/replace the A/C drain pipes with better access and seal anything that looks like it has the potential to leak.

Not a job for a weekend though. I think I'll leave it for my upcoming paternity leave...

I had a quick look in RAVE at the blend motors this morning after seeing this thread. It says that cars with just a heater can be done with the dash in place but cars with A/C have to have the dash removed. I was amazed to learn that some cars didn't get A/C! I don't think I've ever seen one.

Perhaps the suggestion of removing the dash in RAVE was an attempt to increase the chargeable hours in the dealership :P

For the AC, the leak tests aren't always trustworthy. I had to replace the condensers in both the P38 and my girlfriends Corsa as they emptied themselves over time but passed a vacuum and pressure leak test when being regassed. I'd get them filled and find they no longer worked a few weeks down the line.

If any part of the condenser looks like it might be leaking, it probably is and I'd replace it. As Sloth mentioned, check the O/S top corner - that's where mine went.

One of my pipes got seized on the old condenser and stripped a bunch of the threads in the connector. There were a few threads that still looked good and as I didn't have another pipe to replace it with I just did back up. I seem to have gotten lucky - it's held pressure for over a year a now and is still going strong.

I got my AC parts for both cars from here: https://www.autoairconparts.co.uk/. The prices seemed good, 2 year warranty and quick delivery.

I did the receiver drier at the same time as it's easily accessible while doing the condenser.

Glad to have helped :)

Hope you got a nice one!

Gilbertd wrote:

It isn't an uncommon problem on the P38 because of where the OBD socket is. If water gets in through the pollen filter housing, it drips into the back of the socket and corrodes it.

Or stupid, annoying kinked AC drains...