Hello folks,

Is the EAS Pressure regulator/relief valve ever known to give problems?

My EAS doesn't hold pressure. It sags at the back and the pump is constantly kicking in and out.

It has four new airbags fitted and both pump and valve block have been rebuilt with overhaul kits.

It transpires that the kit I used was a rubbish one (orange seals) as proven by the number of leaks that have since been rectified by a universal O-ring kit from Lidls in the interim.

The soapy water check shows no evidence of leaks from the valve block or any of the pipe connections. The only connection I didn't get at to check was on the air tank.

I can hear air escaping from the valve block when I switch off. It's hard to tell but its definitely from underneath and I think from towards the front.

That's why I'm wondering if it could be the pressure regulator venting.

I will be ordering a decent rebuild kit at the end of the month as I didn't have anything suitable for the small inner o-rings on the valves which could explain the saggy rear. Can anyone point me in the direction of a known proven supplier of a proper reliable kit?

Regards,

Smiler.

So, not trying to take over here and hope I'm not treading on anyone's toes but, to consolidate:

Participants requiring headlinings - 8/9 July
1) Marty - 2 x Original, 1 x Black
2) Smiler - 1 x Original (with Sunroof)
3) Morat - 1 x Original

Please copy and add your name and requirements to the list to confirm participation.

Cool, cheers.

Shall we start a list then so we know numbers?

Right, I'm available at the moment for pretty much any time in July and early August.
I am just about within commuting distance to do both days.
I would like to participate in the bulk buy of beige (or whichever colour is decided upon to match the original colour) headlining material.
I have the wifes approval!

So, who is taking the orders for the headlining materials?
Are we any closer to confirming a date?
Is there anything in particular that would be beneficial to bring along?

Regards,

Smiler.

Thanks for the replies, that's good to know. I will try the fix if nothing other than to prove the amp system is all working before I go to the trouble of sorting an adapter.

Hello,

The head unit has been dodgy since I bought the Range Rover the other month. It now produces no sound no matter what is selected. All I get is a rough high pitch whine of moderate volume from the speakers whenever the head unit is switched on.
It is a 96 model with the premium sound system so has amps in the doors.
I am hoping the fault is with the head unit with it being all sound channels that have gone as opposed to the amp system.
I will be replacing the head unit anyway. I know I will require an adapter to match the new head unit with the amp setup but if the fault is actually with the amp system then the adapter will be pointless.
Is this a known failure of these head units when they get old or is it likely to be the amps?
Thanks for any help.
Smiler.

Cheers folks, I shall try a spray of contact cleaner first. If that fails I shall unplug it and start shorting the loom connections to check the vehicle is working correctly before opening the stalk up.

Thanks.

Hello folks,

Due to the recent inclement weather a previously undiscovered fault has revealed itself with the windscreen wipers.

Selecting up for one sweep works fine.
First position down for intermittent works, erm, intermittently if you get what I mean. The variable adjustment doesn't appear to make any difference and the intermittent timing seems to do as it pleases.
Second position down for normal constant wiping does nothing.
Third position down for high speed constant wiping appears to be working fine.

The rear wipe is also rather hit & miss.

I am assuming this is all down to dirty or worn contacts within the stalk switch gear but thought I'd come on here and see if this rich source of information has any views.

Is the stalk something that can be taken apart and cleaned/repaired or have they proven to be constructed in a similar fashion to a nail bomb with parts springing out in all directions on opening the thing up?

Thanks for any help.

Smiler.

P.S. The headlamp wash/wipe is working fine, albeit in need of new blades.

Hello folks,

I dropped the sump on me DSE yesterday to clean out any build up of sludge as part of my future proofing of my new purchase as although it is low miles for its age it has no history. I was very pleased to find that there was no sludge or deposits of any kind whatsoever. The engine has obviously been well maintained.

Of course now that I have disturbed the sump and dipstick tube I have invoked an oil leak! But I don't mind that, it's a small price to pay for the knowledge that the engine is in such good health. Next week its the turn of the autobox if my drum of oil turns up in time.

Well folks, as the title asks, is it possible? Are there any additional physical components required?

Just musing more than anything at the moment but as I live on the edge of the Salisbury Plain the musings might develop into something in the future if it is viable.

I might be able to make one of those two days. 🙂

The first photo looks to be identical to the kit I bought.

Is there anything particularly special about the seals or would a universal o-ring kit from a motor factors (or even Halfrauds if they still sell such things) do?

O-Rings where orange.

I'll be contacting the firm that supplied the original chips for my old BMW when the time comes. Not exactly high on the priorities list.

As for the brakes. I am suspecting that it is an internal pressure leak within the ABS modulator. They certainly work well enough despite the front discs being worn (next expenditure). I wonder if it's anything to do with the bit Georgeb has recently replaced?...

The rear air-springs were replaced by that talented specialist who has kept me busy the past couple of weeks so I might check the pipe connections to those first, perhaps the seals just need a bit of lube. Valve block rebuild kit was a generic eBay kit as was the pump rebuild kit.

I will definitely be interested if it doesn't sell and you are in no hurry. My Escort failed to sell yesterday so the piggy bank is looking pretty bare now.

I try'd the two chips this evening but no joy, engine management light on and no attempt to start. Put the originals back in and all is good again.

I have noticed that the ABS pump seems to be forever kicking in and out even when not using the brakes, is this normal or do I need to start panicking? I'm assuming that the accumulator either works or doesn't meaning it'd be running constantly.

The EAS pump also seems to be quite active but I have a leak somewhere as the rear settles quite quickly, possibly from the valve block that I rebuilt.

Thanks for the replies.

Only advisory was got the corroded brake pipes. Now it is riad legal I can get it to the workshop with the ramp.

I had a 95 BMW 525TDS that Zi still have the remapped chips from as supplied by 'The End' running (recommended) so I'll try those first and see what happens. There was an updated intercooler on eBay recently but I had more pressing demands on the (blown) budget.

Cheers!

Two things have now become apparent. First, it needs those tuning chips! Second, those brake pipes look a nightmare to change, do you follow the original routing?

Correction, MoT now passed! 😁

Ok, cheers. I want to drop it to give it and the bottom of the engine good clean as the oil is really manky and I'm looking to keep this vehicle long term. As I'll be under there dropping the gearbox sump anyway so I may as well do both.

Hello folks,

As the title asks, is there enough clearance to remove the sump from the diesel with the engine still fitted to the vehicle?

Regards,

Smiler.