Ah, that sounds easier to fit. Bottom of the door is empty (now) but as the friendly specialist has been waving his magic wand in there he may have already removed it and put it safe with all missing bolts that were holding the radiators in place up front.
Thanks for the replies folks, sorry but I got distracted with other issues and forgot to check this thread.
Thanks for the recommendations, I shall use them to guide my purchase in a few months time (got full service to carry out first including gearbox oil).
Fixed! I try'd the earth but made no difference. I did however discover the cause of the clanging when shutting the door with the window open. As suspected the glass is wobbling about in one of the guides. In this case it's the forward guide. I'm guessing that there should be a nylon block of some sort clamped around the front edge of the glass.
Back to the boot, climbing in from the front I was able to remove the inner trim panel and manually operate the latch. Then wobbling the plug whilst pressing the button had it working instantly. Just loose connections between the button and the plug. So I have splayed the pins slightly and put a dab of copper grease on for good measure. It's now working with a strong positive action so I've confidently put the trim panel back on.
I was thinking that.
Cheers Marty,
The central locking was all working from the key last time I try'd it but that may have been before the tailgate stopped opening. I'll confirm later. I take it that CDL is Central Dead Locking? Is this microswitch the single wire plug on the lock?
Thanks,
Smiler.
Hello folks.
The tailgate release has suddenly stopped working. I can here the mirco-switch behind the push button operating.
I have had the door card off and checked that the electrical plugs are securely fitted to the latch.
As I understand it, the earth path from the boot release switch passes through the drivers door latch. Can anyone tell me which pin on the multiplug is the connection from the tailgate button? My intention is to hot wire that cable straight to earth and try the button to see if the fault is at the door latch or with the button.
Thanks for any help,
Smiler.
Ta very much, hopefully it'll help turn the tide a bit with the image of these old Rangies.
Cheers, I did give a little yelp for joy!
Success! I borrowed a 'gert biggun' from the ground equipment section at work. It's more accustomed to being used on lorries but it did the trick. Went with one hell of a bang, as to be expected.
Remaining two ball joints now fitted and hub carrier mounted. Tomorrow evening will see the hub and brakes reassembled.
I'll have a word with workshops tomorrow regarding the tools.
Cheers,
Smiler.
Hello folks,
Whilst taking the front axle apart to change the ball joints it became apparent that a new pair of brake discs are in order.
Shopping around the bizarres' I found these:
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-disc-drilled-grooved-ntc8780cdg-sdb000470cdg-p-28661.html
Seemed a bit cheap for a set of four, has anyone had any experience of them? Are the fronts still vented?
Not particularly after grooved and drilled discs, it just seemed a cheap set of four (though saying that, I got four mintex discs and pads for my Rover 75 last year for £80).
Had a fork type splitter in the upper joint, it spat that out and smacked me on the chin (nice little cut).
I try'd swing both hammers (well the biggest one is just the head but it makes a fine bludgeoning tool) at the same time but due to the weights involved it's pretty hard to hit the target. I'll ask our workshops if there is anything they can do to straighten yours and restore its original strength, though they only have limited heat treatment facilities so don't hold your breath...
Actually, turns out the upper joint has cracked free. Still ne movement on the lower though...
Cheers Marty, It still isn't apart yet. I have been holding one large sledge head against one side of the knuckle striking the opposite side with the small sledge. I also have a forked prong style ball joint splitter wedged in the top joint to add some influence. I can't get your splitter to fit the top joint. In the nearside the whole assembly dropped a bit when the bottom released giving space to get the splitter around the top joint.
I am going to see if I can find another splitter in work tomorrow, yours is pulling at a bit of an angle (hoping I haven't bent it further) so is loosing some of its influence.
On a more positive note the nearside is all cleaned up and reassembled now, with lots of graphite grease between the surfaces!
Cheers,
Smiler.
Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Went out this morning and have managed to replace both nearside ball joints. The old ones really didn't want to come out!
Started the offside. Using the scissor jacks and violence with a small sledge hammer method it was out in 15 mins! Maybe dousing it in penetrating fluid overnight helped soften it?. Releasing the hub carriers grip on the ball joints however is a different matter. These weren't too bad on the nearside but I am on the verge of breaking Martyuks' ball joint splitter trying to get the bottom joint to release and that's with heat and shocking! And I thought it was going so well...
Cheers Marty and yes, fingers very much crossed!
Hub carrier off, now ready to remove and replace the ball joints. That will be tomorrows task. Hopefully by the end of tomorrow I'll have the new ball joints fitted both sides at least so that I'll know I'm done with the tooling and it's just a case of cleaning and rebuilding the bolt on bits.
It's out! Well, the near-side anyway.
I ended up using a pair of scissor jacks to preload top and bottom of the hub which being even the bugger should feel. Then just kept belting it either side until a crack started to appear. This was repeated with large quantities of penetrating fluid. Now I need to separate the hub carrier from the ball joints. I think that ball-joint splitter might be looking even more 'well loved' by the time I've finished with it (I'll replace it if I bugger it). At this rate I'll only have one side finished by the end of the weekend...
yep disc guards came off easily. Looking at the bearing housings someone has had a go before me. If they got it apart I reckon they reassembled it with loctite!