Thanks, I shall have a look. That whole area looked clean and dry but I'll disconnect the plug and make sure all is well. Cheers.

Hello folks,

Been a while, life has been busy but the trusty old girl is still soldiering on in daily use.

I have an electrical question. Where are the earth points? I would look on RAVE but my old computer is refusing to open it.

I am specifically after the earth point for the front windows. I have discovered that the earth point on the A posts behind the kick panel do not appear to be it as I can still hear the door outstation module clicking away with all the wires disconnected from this point.

The issue is the drivers window often refuses to move. It works fine if you hot wire it from a battery and I made up a set of jumper leads to try operating it from the passenger door and vice-versa, the result being that the drivers window worked fine from the passenger side and the passenger window stopped working. As the door outstations sound to be doing their job I am suspicious that the earth/ground may be poor.

Regards,

Smiler.

Thanks Gilbertd, I'll give him a call.

The main center section of my steelwork has rotted away around the mounting points to the chassis (one chassis insert has also deteriorated) with the rest in such poor condition so if I repair the bad bits now the rest will soon fail.

Hello folks,

My rear bumper has fallen off. As usual, the steel structure inside it (the sacrificial Anode) has rusted away.

Being a common problem on these obviously makes finding a good used one rather challenging. Has anyone tried adapting the steelwork from the front bumper to fit?

Regards,

Si.

Thanks for the replies folks, very much appreciated.

Hello folks,

I need new front brake discs and front and rear pads replacing. Before I go in blindly buying, does anyone have any recommendations or types to avoid?

I have seen Britpart grooved and drilled discs advertised, are they worth bothering with? Or do they just eat the pads quicker or even wear out as quick as the pads?

I am guessing Minetx or EBC for the pads

Regards,

Si.

I had this issue fairly recently, same symptoms regarding the rad. I have an alloy rad and after checking the baffle was in place I suspected I had a blockage in my rad. I spent a fair amount of time flushing the thing through with a high flow pump from screwfix. It would still over heat.

What I found was that at low RPM, when loaded, such as after cresting a steep hill, it would get very hot. Keep the revs up and it would cool down.
My water pump was only a year old (metal impellor type) but in the end I replaced it anyway just to discount it if for no other reason and it fixed it! I could see nothing visibly wrong with the old pump, the impellor and pulley were both still tight on the shaft. Either way, a few thousand miles later, including some spirited driving to load it up and make sure, and it has been fine.

It can yes, but it has an almost brand new alternator fitted and a good battery.

It has so far only done it when I put my foot down after a reasonable amount of driving time (1 hour plus).

When the weather improves I'll have another look.

Hello folks,

I recently fitted a reconditioned auto-box from Ashcroft Transmissions. All was going well until last night when I got a 'Transmission Fault' message and the box went into third gear 'limp' mode.

Thanks to my newly acquired Nanocom (thanks DaveAll) I was able to read the code - output shaft speed error.
I reset the code, set the Nanocom to display the live readings and with wife reading out the speeds I went for a little dive. All was good.
After she went back indoors and I had a bit more of a play I got another 'Transmission Fault' warning, this time the fault was the anti-stall solenoid (or words to that effect).
Again it was cleared and all is good.

I am suspecting I have a bad connection in the loom somewhere. The greabox plug is securely attached, though I will disconnect and check it is clean. What is the routing of the rest of the loom? Are there any multiplugs elswhere known to give problems (assuming this is just a poor coincidence)?

When my front prop-shaft U/Js went I got a vibration at around 30MPH. There was no discernible play in the U/J until I loosened the mounting bolts. It then became quite apparent.

Early days yet, I have been driving it lightly to make sure it is happy before getting back into the saddle properly. I will let you know.

The old box had the dipstick, the new one doesn't. Oil arrived yesterday so now all topped up and back in action. Only done about 5 miles so far but all seems to be working well. Other than the change in revs the gear changes are unnoticeable.

I'm afraid I can't help with the EGR system, mine is an earlier model and so doesn't have it (which makes access to the water pump and thermostat a fair bit easier).

Happy to confirm that a late -065 suffix ZF4HP24 autobox fitted with the diesel Torque Converter and bell-housing does indeed bolt straight in! Just waiting for a drum of transmission fluid to arrive to see if it actually works!

Yes please! I'll PM you!

Oh, and what Scimitar?

Brilliant, thanks, particularly for the quick reply.

Hello folks,

I have bolted up a recon gearbox to the engine and I have a 1-2mm gap between the flex plate and the torque converter. Is this normal to allow a bit of float or should the flexplate be up against the torque converter?

Good. A modified torque converter would be nice to finish it off but Ashcroft said they no longer do them for the p38 diesel.

Is the oil pump in the gearbox or the bell housing?
I have ordered a full ZF4HP24 gearbox but with the diesel bell housing and torque converter fitted.

The uprated diesel torque converters are no longer available from them.

Conversion kit is interesting, though obviously meant for the M57. But is out of stock.

Which upgrade? The uprated torque converter (if they are still available) or the engine remapping?