I have ordered a recon unit from Ashcroft Transmissions. They are building me an -065 suffix ZF4HP24 box with a diesel bell housing and torque converter for the standard cost of a straight rebuild.
This is not a job I want to repeat and my original transmission was in really good condition (flushed last year following a cooler replacement and fluid had stayed clean since) up until the moment the seal at the torque converter gave way and it ran low.
Just a 3 week lead time to deal with but comes with 12 month warranty and all new clutches etc...

I'm afraid I can't help with the water pump, though I did manage to get a metal impeller type from Island 4x4 a couple of months ago.

Regarding the Direnza radiator, I fitted one over a year ago and posted my experiences in fitting it on my website:

www.Auto-TaT.co.uk

It's in the P38 section (funnily enough).

Thanks for that, very much appreciated.

Do you know if there any truth in the ebay ads claim that the later 4.6 box is stronger and a direct replacement (with appropriate bell housing and torque converter) for the diesel? Same gear ratios?

I shall give that place a call.

Cheers,
Simon.

Update, checked oil level and it's off the bottom of the dipstick. Removed the drain plug, it's brown with tiny dark particles in it. So looks like the box is toast.

I have experience of the Direnza alloy radiator in my 2.5 Auto, I put up my experiences on my website:

Auto-TaT - P38 Alloy Rad

Si.

Hello folks,

As the title implies, my P38 diesel has lost drive and is leaking transmission oil from the bell housing. I am assuming this is either a leaking/cracked torque converter or the input shaft seal on the gearbox.

I am competent with a toolkit (spent twenty odd years fixing jet aircraft) but I don't have access to a vehicle lift/ramp, just normal trolley jack and axle stands.

I have a few questions I am hoping the knowledge and experience on here might be able to help with:

1) Is removal of the transmission feasible at home?

2) Are any special tools or jigs required?

3) Should I remove the transfer box first to reduce weight or am I just inviting more problems and would be better off leaving it all as one unit?

I had the vehicle transported to my parents place as they have more space than me and have not yet been back to see how low the transmission fluid level has got. I carried out a fluid and filter change (along with new transmission oil cooler and pipes) about a year ago so the majority of the fluid was replaced. If the fluid level hasn't dropped too low is the box likely to be ok or will I have knackered the internal clutches?

If I do need a replacement box, has anyone any experience of these:
Recon Gearbox from Wales

Many thanks for any help and advice given. This could be the end of the journey but I am reluctant to write it off as I have invested a lot of time and money into it now (suspension, brakes, cooling, electrics, someof the interior) and I will never be able to afford one again.

Regards,

Si.

I was considering that but to be honest my alternator looked to be in a pretty poor state. As it is my sole vehicle I played it safe / chickened out and replaced the entire unit.

I recently replaced mine. I think I got it from Bearmach.

Hello all, realised I never posted the outcome of this. Whilst preparing to carry out the fuel pump flow check I thought I'd just make sure the small diameter pipe to the MAP sensor was good. Turned out the end had perished and become loose on the map sensor and leaking. I cut the last 10mm off the end, refitted it (firm fit) and all is well again.

Your in Salisbury? Nuts, I'm only up the road from you.

Thanks for responding. It is due a service but the engine performs and pulls as normal up until the point the symptom kicks in.
The ECU appears to be actively reducing the power (electronic throttle on these diesel engines) as if responding to a signal to limit the power. I would have suspected it was going into limp mode but it is not quite as restricted as that and the engine light does not come on.

Hello folks,

My diesel auto has developed a strange problem. Once it gets up to about 70mph (or about 50mph up reasonably steep hills) it changes up a gear and despite having my foot to the floor the power actually backs off as do the engine revs resulting in a slight deceleration.
There are no warning lights showing, everything else appears normal.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Regards,

Si.

I sunk back into the lovely Nappa leather seats I recently fitted and set number two memory position to the 'reclined snooze whilst waiting for wife/kids' position.

I bet the heating elements don't work though...

I would be interested in both this and Martys.

Done and working, thanks.

Yep, skin intact. :)

Brilliant, thanks for that comprehensive answer. Very much appreciated. C361 looks to be favourite. I want to remove the drivers seat anyway to sort out the slop in the height mechanism (it's like sitting in a rocking chair} so I'll do it then.

Cheers, Si.

The cable I need to attach is at the head unit in the dashboard. I am trying to avoid running a cable all the way to the rear light units. That's shy I am looking to tap into either the BECM of the selector unit itself.

Hello folks,

I am finally wiring in the reverse camera facility on my touch screen head unit. It needs a signal to tell the unit to switch to the reversing camera view.

I dont's want to run a cable all the way to the reverse lights when the selector and the BECM are so much closer.
Does anyone know if I can piggyback from the selector unit? Or failing that, the BECM?

I am having issues with RAVE not opening on my laptop, hence the question on here in case anyone else has already done similar?

Regards,

Smiler.

Thanks for the continued replies.

I have used self adhesive foam strip that I think I bought from a hardware shop a while ago. I was concerned that this would be destroyed whilst trying to refit the duct.
I did slightly trim the plastic on the end of the ducting to remove some of the dog-eared damage from removal.
I then attached the foam strip to the duct and taped over it with some extra wide (2") insulation tap that folded around the outside of the lip. The hope being this would help prevent it being torn out of place on fitment.

It seems to have worked.