Hello folks,

On reassembling my dashboard I have closed the glovebox only to now discover that it won't open. There is no resistance at the button so I suspect that I hadn't got the cable attached properly,

Are there any ideas as to how I can get the thing open again without causing damage?

Smiler.

Pull fuse 23? That's a new one on me. Didn't pull it when I changed the battery when I first got it and had no issues but then didn't disconnect anything.

I did turn the power on with the airbag disconnected yes to look at the blend motors. Powered off for 15 minutes prior to reconnecting the airbag. Looks like I might need to pay Marty a visit.

Hello folks,

I recently removed the passenger airbag whilst gaining access to the heater and ducting (power off for fifteen minutes before unplugging) and as expected the SRS light came on with an airbag fault. I have just refitted (power off for 15mins first again) and the SRS light and dashboard airbag warning are still on.
Do I need to do something to reset it?

Smiler

ok, I shall take a look. cheers.

Thanks for that, that fuse box looks just like mine, only my connector hasn't come completely adrift yet.

The drivers fan I wiggled all the plugs but it would not come on until I tapped the housing. I may have to try to remove it to look at it on a bench.

Thanks for the replies, so I might not be out of the water with the blend motors just yet. I was hoping I'd managed to avoid pulling the dash.

I have cleaned up the fan connector in the footwell as the contacts were a bit corroded. No change. Tapping the drivers fan brought it to life so I'll look at its plug next. As for the passenger side, a quick pull of the relay revealed a heat damaged relay and holder so it looks like I need to repair the fuse box.

Hello folks,

A couple of updates:

1) Air Suspension - To recap, it has four new air springs fitted and both pump and valve block have been rebuilt for a second time, this time with a much better more reputable kit.
No signs of external leaks through the soapy water technique but I can still hear the faint hiss of air escaping from the system from the valveblock area.
I carried out a bit of investigative work with the PRV which appears to be ok but have ty-wraped the finger from a disposable latex glove over the end to see if it inflates. I need to have another go at this as I can't see the blumin thing with it all back ogether. I shall assemble it all outside the box so I can get to the underside.
The front end tends to sag first and sometimes after parking on a slope the back end raises itself to off-road position. I'm wondering if maybe the servo valves themselves are getting a bit tired and not sealing properly when closed.

2) HEVAC - This weekend I started removing the dashboard. I was at an advanced state when I decided to have a play to make sure that there was definitely no movement in the two heat controlling blend motors. Guess what, they're both working! I can only presume that they are reacting to the signal that they are receiving and something is making the HEVAC controller drive the drivers side temp to full hot.Time to plug it in me thinks. Also found that the passenger side fan isn't working but is free to rotate so suspect a supply issue. Marty has already given me some pointers on this.

Finally, yet more dodgy wiring from this professional (Ha!) car phone installation... Turns out I could do with a new upper centre console panel as apart from a couple of broken mounting points the mounting lugs for the cabin temp sensor are both snapped off.

Could the droning noise just be the air suspension pump firing up?

I'm afraid I'm not in the trade and certainly don't have any contacts other than my editor (and the pair in the distributor of the old Essex powered Scimitar). All I do is email my drivel to him each month with some photos and keep my fingers crossed that mine is good enough to go to print. It is good for keeping up momentum with the cars though.

Hmm, I don't know. The thing he will be wary of is the fact that there are already numerous magazines out there covering Land Rovers and lesser models. He has to keep the focus of the mag on track.
Having said that, there is no harm in taking pictures and writing something up just in case. :)

Ah, I see. Good point well presented. If I may I shall keep an off-cut and try the local fabric shop for a match.

I received my early copy of Practical Performance Car magazine today.

Went straight to the Staff Cars section and there she is in all her glory! My submission didn't make the magazine last month and I was wondering if perhaps he didn't want my P38 in it (it's hardly a performance vehicle in the context of the magazine and the editor is not a fan) but this month he came good. I have been a bit tongue in cheek about it but hopefully I can use the magazine space to put to bed a few misconceptions over the months ahead.

It will be on the shelves from Thursday (25th), page 60/61.

Smiler.

Headlining - whatever's closest. In fact, would it be suitable for recovering the pillar trims? Being an earlier generation mine are the furry style type that have gone 'orrible'.

If we do go for a production run of headlinings (also known as a 'Pulse Line') we will need to make sure we rotate the 'staff' so that no one spends all day constantly exposed to the fumes.

I am willing to pass on what I have picked up so far and having spent the past 20+ years fixing aircraft am capable of helping wherever. I have recently replaced the air-springs on mine so if you want me to show you on yours Morat but to be honest they are very easy. I did my second one in the dark!

I have a 20ltr waste oil drum that I will endeavor to empty and bring along just incase.

As for other jobs, I have the following that I could do with looking at if the chance arises:

Front passenger door lock motor inop (early type)
Sunroof will not set (Marty had a quick look at this and suggested it could be a fault within the motor itself)
Replace transmission oil temp sensor (requires bumper removal)

If you don't mind Marty, I'd also like to plug the vehicle in to run a health check.
The HEVAC book symbol is illuminated. I know I have a stuck blend motor (drivers side) but would also like to know if there is anything else sick before I get stuck in or pay to have the air-con recharged.

Cheers,

Smiler.

dazer2000 wrote:

Thanks yet again mate, do we have to book or put names down ? I am not sure if I bought the tickets to Bryan Adams for that weekend lol now I think about it !...................dates in my head .......I have her in doors for bookings lol

There is a list, please copy the list below and add your details to it:

Participants requiring headlinings - 8/9 July
1) Marty - 2 x Original, 1 x Black (all with Sunroof)
2) Smiler - 1 x Original (with Sunroof)
3) Morat - 1 x Original Lightstone (with Sunroof)
4) Orangebean- 1x Original Lightstone (with sunroof)

This date is creeping up fast now. Do we need a deadline date to get the orders in with the suppliers?

Cheers.

Going from that post then there is no loss of air through the exhaust silencer (plastic item on the side, in my case a white one). I have unscrewed this as has been suggested and put my finger over the hole with no discernible build up of pressure or sound of escaping air on removing my finger.

I know sound can be hard to trace when it's in a plastic shoebox but it does seem to be emanating from the forward end which points to what you refer to as the PRV (which I also took it to be). So I am guessing that the dealers parts catalogue has it mislabeled. They are available at £28 +vat.

I will have one final check that it isn't just leaking around the threads first but it was assembled with a bit of blue hylomar smeared into the thread to make it air-tight.

Thinking about it, I could cut the finger from a disposable glove (making sure I'm not wearing it at the time) and ty-wrap it over the PRV. Then if it is leaking I'll be able to see the finger inflate.

Smiler.

Right, I need a bit of clarification here.

I went out to it at lunchtime and found it sat in access position (I had parked it in normal driving position).
Got in, fired up and she stood up immediately, normal height within 6-8 seconds.

I drove to the local main stealers to check on price and availability of a PRV. I noticed that the pump was now only cutting in for short bursts and not as frequently.
At the main dealers I was informed (and shown the screen) that what I thought was a PRV is listed as a silencer.

It is the brass cylinder on the underside next to the pressure switch. Any clues?

If this is the exhaust silencer, what is the plastic screw in thing on the inboard rear quarter that looks like an airfilter?

Think I need to borrow the wifes laptop again, load up Rave and go through the schematics...

Right, valve block and pump rebuilt with the new kit. A much better fit! Desiccant replaced in the water extractor at the same time.
It was too late to fire her up last night so that was done this morning. System charged and when I went back out to it about ten minutes later she was stood high and proud.
Switched off, opened the EAS Pump cover and low and behold, the hissing is still there!
Whilst driving to work the pump was cutting in and out constantly.
I am going to try replacing the pressure relief valve. Even if it hasn't failed, maybe it has opened at some point and some crud from somewhere has got stuck in the seat holding it open slightly.

Lidls seals were an interim measure.

My full kit from 4x4Airseals has arrived. Looks like my evening is set.

I pulled the head unit today and discovered that it appears to have two aerial leads going into it, are they both aerials? If so, which do I reuse?

Also found more hateful scotchlocks:

This fuzzy object was floating around in the cavity:

Is it supposed to be attached to this?

Finally, with the aftermarket Android head units, does anyone know if the original CD multi-changer can be made to work with them?

Smiler.

I checked the top connection satis but might have missed the bottom. I am convinced however that it is coming from the valve block as I can hear it there. It is only subtle but obviously loosing enough to effect the system.