Sounds good. Keep the updates coming.

I've started looking at the speeduino DIY ECUs (a cheaper alternative to the Megasquirt DIY ECU) for the Scimitars Jag engine. Jumping the gun a little bit but I can't progress much on the car as apart from it being dark and wet outside the car is at my parents and we are in lockdown. I have designed the throttle bodies adapter manifold and am all set to start printing as soon as I have made an enclosure for the printer (bits on order). Also looking at making the doors lighter and again waiting on material to arrive.

So what is left to do on it?

Oh, and I have a 3D printer now if you need anything knocking up (assuming you don't already have access to one).

Awesome! Great to see an update. If mine wasn't my only transport and I didn't have the Scimitars in work I would be trying to copy you.

Mine has had fog lamps fitted at some point and had some extra holes drilled into the valance. I have on occasion found the gearbox dipstick (mine is a 96 model) has popped out of the tube by an inch or two suggesting that it has got a bit warm but then last time I looked the transmission cooler was rather past its best.
The important bit is that the fog light activation setting was available within the BECM to activate them when the switch is pressed.

As soon as it is safe to do so I am going to have to come down your way! In fact, I'll be kicking my heels down Southampton for a few hours on tuesday 22nd whilst my dad attends an appointment at the general hospital.

The 12 valve BMW M51 diesel doesn't do much below turbo rpm. It does however like to rev compared to most diesels (I used to have an E34 525 TDS Tourer). The DSE does have a surprising turn of speed all things considered but in the real world it is not fast by any stretch. Which means that when I finally get my Scimitar on the road it should feel like a rocket ship!

Thanks for all of the replies. I shall check the light units on the lower tailgate and will probably check the body light units at the same time. Then I'll remove, clean and refit the tailgate aperture seal with some sealant within the clamping jaw as suggested.

If the above doesn't sort it I shall crack the well bung as suggested to let the water out until I find and fix the source.

Not really an oily bit but it does appear to have a leak so I guess it still fits.

My lower tailgate and my boot underfloor appear to be filling with water. Before I start the hunt are there any known common areas where water gets in?

Sun roof drain channels are all clear and connected. Not that they would explain the lower tailgate filling with water.

Regards,

Smiler.

Holly molly! This has progressed as a vast rate of knots since I last looked in! Blimey! and I thought I had been busy.

Congratulations on how far you have come. If you want to have a go in a 2.5 DSE then happy for you to take mine for a spin when circumstances allow. I haven't really driven a V8 but what I can pass on at the moment is that it revs a lot, likes to kick down and suffers turbo-lag. But once it gets going it's actually pretty good considering.

Ooh, sounds exciting. Please take lots of photos. :)

On the dieseasel it is sandwiched between the air-con condenser and the main radiator. Access is by removing the grill, top panel, air-con condenser and in this case the intercooler that sits above it. I don't know how much of that reads across to the V8 models.

no worries, if you need any more photos of anything just let me know and I'll take them for you.

You've just reminded me that I still need to replace my manky (fan-less) trans oil cooler.

I also need to buy an engine oil cooler for the Scimitar project...

I bought a big Yuasa battery from halfords with 5year warranty for mine when I first bought it. Despite daily use on decent runs it failed after just shy of three years. Halfords put there test box on it numerous times (even tried different stores) and told me the battery was fine, just needed charging. This was with it in the vehicle. I wasted much time and money chasing an unknown fault on the vehicle.
I gave up and bought the Hankook recommended here. I haven't looked back! It transforms the vehicle. The P38 is a bit voltage sensitive, numerous little quirks went away with this new battery.
Halfords never did honor the warranty.

I'll be up for it, in case there are any common jobs with other my list is as follows:

Air-con needs sorting. I have a new condenser and water extractor fitted, though I have found some serious chafing on one of the compressor pipes.
Climate control likes to go full hot at anything other than 'Lo' setting.
Heated seats
Possible steering play
Only running on six cylinders...

Replaced all four shock absorbers with shiny new Monroes after the MoT man failed one for leaking and gave an advisory for two for leaking. Not convinced the four I took off were duff but new ones fitted now.

Tomorrow I get to replace a flexible brake hose, attempt to loosen the radius arm bolts as they need new bushes (but I had a bit missing from the parts order) and possibly dismantle the front of the vehicle to get to the leaking front crank seal.

I took mine for an MoT.

I now need four new shock absorbers / dampers, new front hockey stick bushes, a new brake hose, a new front prop U/J and a fuel leak sorting.

You might have plenty of time to work on it before long the way things are going...

All RRs after the P38 have independent suspension and so definitely biased more to on-road performance than off-road.

I love mine and mines a diesel!

I think it depends on the spec of what is already fitted. If you have the basic setup with no factory fitted amplifiers then I believe you can plug straight in. If you have factory fitted amplifiers (which I believe the majority were ordered with) then you need an adapter to go between the head unit speaker outputs and the vehicle loom. You can spend a bit of money on a ready made on in a neat little plastic box (which I have to admit I did) or make one yourself.
Others will no doubt be along shortly to guide you on this.