Well its recorded as a fail due to broken exhaust bracket at front (major defect) although government site shows fail it still says MOT valid till 23 nov, he also says he just needs a ramp but its a 5 minute fix which he hopes in next hour or so will be done
Its at local garage today I told him no to rollers and use tappley he smiled and said I'm to stop stressing over MOT and that before then he has made his mind up, normally on ramp he says that tells him all he needs to know plus its a steep slope to to MOT area so I guess could test there
A
donmacn wrote:
blobthebuilder wrote:
I puller into layby on way home pulled 3 clicks it held then moved forewards with difficulty but 4 clicks it took over 2500revs and stayed put
blobthebuilder wrote:
I puller into layby on way home pulled 3 clicks it held then moved forewards with difficulty but 4 clicks it took over 2500revs and stayed put
Not MOT related, but this is how I toasted my first ever RR handbrake, on the old 1984 classic. 3.5 V8 with the twin carbs and the three speed Chrysler auto box.
Disembarking the ferry back from Stornoway (where I bought it on a work trip) I thought the front wheels were turned up against a low level metal 'wall' and stopping me going forward, so I tried to move; tried to move; tried to move; and finally gave it some serious welly. Turned out the resistance I was feeling wasn't tyres against metal, but handbrake against propshaft! The 55 miles back home, with the remnants of the handrake still on, didn't do it any favours - but that's what the 'park' setting on an auto box is for, right?
Sounds like you had a real 'mare' with your tester.
At least I know everything else is found just need fella here to sign off the handbrake and should be a good un
Well Iain McKee sent me replacement becm today so I fitted it and everything is perfect reverse lights only in reverse, gears on dash, sport high and lo as well and sunroof turned back on so just need to fix it when I get mot
I puller into layby on way home pulled 3 clicks it held then moved forewards with difficulty but 4 clicks it took over 2500revs and stayed put
He tested brakes in car park but said how is he ment to test handbrake if not on rollers, says readings Kent to be in 20's but mine was all over shop and trying to come off rollers
Well I'm thinking tester is an idiot lol, said there should be height adjuster for headlights and woudnt have it there set with suspension said there was motors in lights I said they were for wipers he said car had none and there clearly there and working, then couldn't open fuel flap because car was running broke cover for seatbelt and broke interior driver door handle checked everything else and said car was good and emissions really good but aborted test because couldn't test handbrake on rollers when I clearly told him you went ment to lol
StrangeRover wrote:
P38 doesn't need undertrays i'd remove 'em.
If he considers them likely to come adrift and fly from under the vehicle at speed he could fail it.
They been there for months and some very spirited driving (putting it mildly) and not even as much as cracked the fibreglass also reason I fitted them was they had very substantial foam padding inside and while I never thought it would it did make a difference to diesel engine clatter lol
Lol as I said above I bonded them in place and they seem eeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr fairly well attached unless he takes a crowbar and mash hammer to them there on for good it seems lol
A few months ago I had undertrsys so I went to fit them, there was no holes so I cabled tied them in place and bonded with fibreglass with intention of using bolts etc but forgot to go back to it and I have MOT tomorrow my question is if there secure and defiantly not moving or likely to cone adrift will they be MOT failure
Ok little update the garages autologic system did connect to car, it appently connected to all the modules and found passengers airbag problem no trouble, cleared code and didn't come back so I dodged the bullet lol , still £42 for stupidity
Gilbertd wrote:
Standard code reader won't do it, I doubt if Auto Logic will do it either. OBD code readers read engine fault codes, for the other subsystems you need a dedicated reader. I've got the Nanocom for Range Rover, iCarSoft for Mercedes, VCDS for VW /Audi and OpCom for Opel/Vauxhall. They will all do what the should on the correct car but won't do anything on anything else.
SRS light on is automatic MoT fail too.......
Yeah I know its automatic fail bud, garage in my town has been land/range rover garage for 50 years he was very sure he could do diagnostic on p38, recently he expanded into other makes and does body repair and respray know so maybe he best place to try
The cable and pin on end got pulled out but I refitted it and it clicked back in snugly then connected fine, I know what you mean but don't think plug was issue I think it got caught somewere
I've a fella with Bosch code reader says most up to date, would they read it because if so he says he will to it for free
Thanks bud I'm hoping it hasn't caused anything serious with MOT on Monday, also replacement BECM posted tomorrow I got email from UPS and I had to take blend motor apart it obvuosult been run off car because wasn't in right place lined up 2 arrows on cogs which put flat part that went into flap at top, moved flap to top slotted it in and book gone and hot/cold working fine now bud thanks
1996 bud local garage is land rover specialist they say they have diagnostic that will read p38 I think its auto logic but he gonna look tomorrow
When fixing passengers side blend motor earlier and refitting airbag the blue cable pulled out of the red plug, I didn't notice and started car, its all reconnected now but I have a hard airbag fault on dash and I can see SRS light pulsing, when you start the car the light goes out for split second then back on hardly quick enough to notice its off, I'm wondering is it there until error cleared with diagnostics or is it likely there is still a fault
Gilbertd wrote:
Doesn't look like it as reversing lights are not part of the test for a car first used before 1 September 2009. Doesn't mean the tester won't comment on it though, some of them like to make the rules up as they go along rather than follow the manual. If you want to get rid of the warning, you could always connect a couple of bulbs, paint them black and hang them down behind the cluster. They'll still come on but you won't be able to see them.
I did think of the same earlier I covered bulb and left them in place it lastest about 2 mins then melted through lmao, again I'm hoping issue will be sorted by then
Thanks bud,my mate said remove bulbs but I know the testr he been doing it for 37yrs and he is a stickler I mean he failed my old Saab or rear arm mount and even though it was on ramp next door being done until it was actually on and all back together he wouldn't pass it