What's "traction failure" and what causes the message?

I've had it happen to me a handful of times since I've owned the car. The only thing that's noticeable when I get the message is that it resets my radio code. Next time you start the engine the message has cleared. I get no other side effects.

I can't replicate the circumstances. Could it be a dodgy ground somewhere?

Changed the pinion and drive flange on the front diff as it was leaking a bit. Then it still leaked so did it again.

I see where the diff bolts onto the axle there's some sort of black sealant. Is it normal to seal between the diff and axle or is there meant to be a gasket? I'm not sure if it's sprung a leak. Perhaps a check/tighten of the nuts?

Asking for the father in.law.

His near side rear window wont set. Any ideas what it might be?
Window works fine. No skipping teeth.

Inspired by Orangebean, i ordered some gear from Liquid Leather.

Gear knob was a bit shabby chic and the steering wheel just plain shabby. I've posted pictures so Orangebean believes it happened. :-)

I'd actually degreased and cleaned when i took these pictures. It was a bit worse before.

Took me absolutely ages to mask up. Might seem overkill, but i decided that i would get the compressor and mini spray gun out. So to avoid painting my dash and everything around it, it seemed necessary.

I applied some dye neat with a sponge to the really worn patches to give them a sporting chance. Then i sprayed the whole thing about 7 times with a watered down mix. I'm pretty pleased with the results!

Think i might need to spray the handbrake sleeve too as its now the black sheep of the car. Anyone know how to get it off? I can't see any screws.

Bit more work to do. Air intake needs to come off and be soaked in some sort of stripper to get the crap off it, and the underside of the bonnet needs doing. I might get the wire wheel on the compressor and other shiny bits too. All in all I'm fairly pleased with the initial outcome.

As I've previously professed, I am not a car fixer man, so don't take the mick that I dunno what stuffs called. However, if I think I can fix something, I'll have a good go.

I've been for an underbody steam clean this afternoon (the car, not me!) so I could hopefully trace the oil leaks.

Firstly, there's this round thing. What's it do and how do I stop it leaking? I imagine there's some sort of gasket in it? There's a couple of little leaks on the mating surface too which I assume would be a gearbox out job to fix? I've circled them all in red in case anyone has a dicky monitor.

The second one looks like it's gonna be a right nuisance. I bet loadsa stuff has to come off to fit a 50p part. Again I've circled around it in red. This is at the front of the engine, looking up from underneath. Oil had been dripping down and under which led me to think it might be the sump gasket. That's all dry now so the root of the problem is here.

Thanks

Got an issue with the compressor playing away to itself most of the time still.

Every time I start the car, the ride height flashes for a couple of secs and the orange "going up" symbol comes on the dash as though to say it's going up but the car actually never moves anywhere.

Compressor kicks in and out all the time and at traffic lights with foot on the break, sometimes you can see a little dance up and down of the front end if you watch the bonnet.

Yesterday I parked up and as I got out, I noticed that the back was higher than the front by a good 2 inches or so. looking at the distance between the wheel and the arch.

I'm wondering if it's a faulty height sensor at the front?????? How do you check these?

I don't lose any air when parked up and I'm fairly confident that's it's air tight. Block and compressor were rebuilt. about 6 weeks back.

I recall that when Morat put his Nanocom on it, the EAS reported an "unknown fault"

Any ideas?

Thanks

Asking for the father-in-law

He has a hot start problem on his 2.5 diesel.

Starts no problem on a morning. Can drive a mile or so to the shops, come back out and it'll start again no problem. If he drives much further and the engine gets any hotter, when he goes to start it again, it takes anywhere between 5 and 10 seconds to fire up.

He's asking me cause clearly he thinks as we both have p38's, that I would know. lol.

He says he's looked it up and it's something to do with the injector pump and it's going to be anywhere between £700 and £1500 for a new one. He then presents me with a potential fix from the other forum regarding this kit.

He says he's happy to bodge it with the kit as he doesn't do many miles at all, which he doesn't. I'm not sure why he even has a car.

Will this work or is there another solution?

Thanks

Finally found a good exterior window trim to replace my shan one. Anyone know how you get them out?

Back when I bought my car, the navigation that was in was caput and I messed about with the screen for a while to see if I could make use of it as just a screen. That was to no avail so I was looking for something to fill the hole. Toyed with the idea of one of these android gps thingys and then stumbled upon a post that Marty had made on another forum a while back. That sealed the deal and this just arrived this morning.

I just thought i'd ask what the best way of getting it into the dsp amp setup is. The last car I had, I wired a 3.5mm jack to the cd changer outs on the back of the radio. Suited the purpose and I could plug a phone or a tablet in. You needed to have a cd in the changer though to fool the car into thinking that it's playing. This is slightly different as it has it's own amp. 4x45w @ 4ohm. What's the way to go about linking it in?

Original radio is still in place and I wasn't going to remove it. Just a left and right from the new one into the old system will suffice. Unless someone has a good idea.

Thanking you much so!

Browsing ebay and I found this butchered beast. Some modificationary been happening. My favourite of which is the no door handles/button under the mirror job.

Also saw this. Seems in decent nick. Would a nanocom fix the key issue?

Sadly my Hawkeye diagnostic deal fell through. Would've been cheap enough at £100 but the guy has decided to keep it. So no diagnostics for me at the moment.

Since it looks as though i'm going to be buying a new one at full price, I might aswell look at all the options. I know that people would consider the BBS stuff to be the best, but which diagnostic tool is the most appropriate?

I know of 5.
Nanocom, Faultmate, Lynx, Hawkeye and EASunlock V4.

They all vary in price and capabilities and the hawkeye has the added benefit of covering all Landrover models so good from a resale point of view.

Whilst I have no issues buying a nanocom, my question is do I need it? Will I get an extra £100 of use out of it compared to the hawkeye or Lynx or will I be buying the best tool that's just filled with many functions I don't need/understand or shouldn't mess about with?

Would like a bit of non biased advice and perhaps a brief comparison or example of some of the things you can and can't do with them.

The list of functions are available on the respective websites, but are a little unclear at times for the uninitiated.

For example, the hawkeye says it can programme the BECM and the tramsmission of my 2000 4.6. In what way would the nanocom programme it differently or what additional functions would the nanocom have that I may need? Can hawkeye reset the adaptive values of the gearbox if required?

The hawkeye can't programme the EMS of a 2000 4.6 V8 but says it can do "Maintenance". What's that supposed to mean?
As I understand it, the nanocom can programme the EMS. Do I need or will I need that functionality?

If it's justifiable, i'll buy it. I just don't want to spend an extra £100 on a unit that has specialist functions that a general DIY'er should be poking around with if you know what I mean. Likewise, i'd hate to spend £300 and then find out that I should have spent the extra £100 after all.

It may appear to be a silly post but I'm pretty sure at some point, other people would find the information useful to make an informed decision as the manufacturers websites all claim that their product is the one to have.

Thanks a lot :-)

New diagnostics may arrive tomorrow so I shall soon know the answer. In the meantime, I thought it might be fun if anyone wants to play guess the fault.

Symptoms

Start car from cold. Drive as normal. As soon as temperature gauge gets to normal operating temperature (in the middle) I get the book signal. Turn car off and back on, book symbol goes away.

Leave the car an hour while you go shopping, drive away but when gets back up to temperature, no book symbol.

Leave the car to cool down for a couple of hours, drive away and when gets back up to temperature, book symbol comes on.

No other symptoms at all. Nothing makes noise, runs rough or anything. Happens with hevac fans on or off and heating appears to work as it should. Blows hot and cold where you ask it to.

Any ideas what it might be?

Whilst I wait for my new caliper, I thought i'd have a look at my wonky steering wheel. Got some advice from Marty on how to go about it.

My wheel is off centre at bout 11'o clock when wheels are straight. The steering box markings aren't lined up. If I put my wheel straight, the markings line up. So as I understand it, this means the box is set right and that the drag link might want adjusting as it's too short?

I'm having a look at all of this myself first before I send it in for tracking. The last car I had, they spent 90 minutes farting about with the track rod, only to give it back to me and say it was seized and I needed a new one. I want to be prepared with working components this time. With this in mind, I've loosened the drag link adjuster clamps but I cannot shift the adjuster whatsoever. I've given it a right old blast with penetrant but to no avail. New drag link required or is there a method to loosen the bugger?

Got a set of coils and 7mm leads for a Thor. Nowt wrong with them. I.bought new ones as I was chasing a fault that turned out not to be coils or leads.

£10+postage.

I'm bored so I thought i'd share a couple of pictures of my wheel refurb. Did these a while ago now.

Spent some time with a wire wheel on the drill and various sandpapers. Etched primed and then filler primed (I only had yellow)

I didn't want bright silver nor black. So I ended up with this which I think is quite modern. 2 colour coats, scotchbright in between, then 3 clear coats.

Did all 4 wheels and my grill to match.

Hopefully there's someone around for this.

I'm just doing the brakes and by pushing the piston back, the fluid level has now gone well above max. Whats the best way to get it back down to the right level? Caliper bleed?

Thanks

Rebuilt the eas block today as it was lowering overnight.

Anyway, some butchery has previously been had and the exhaust valve had been glued but not very well. Long story short, I can't fix it. it's knackered. However, I thought i'd mended t enough to get me going. I've got a hiss somewhere and I cannot for the life of me pinpoint it.

Would the exhaust valve leak air if it's not screwed in right?

I'm at a complete loss. I was meticulous.

I've checked all external airlines and they're not leaking. I've sprayed the exhaust valve but theres nothing bubbling there neither.

Anyone know the correct ohmage for the bosch injectors?

I've got a reading of 15.3

Sadly, those little niggles that I'm trying to iron out just seem to keep coming.

When slowing down for traffic lights, roundabouts or speed bumps, I get judder through the steering wheel and you can feel vibration a little through the floor. Happens from about 20mph downover until stopped.

I put it down to brakes at first because I do need new pads but, the car doesn't pull. I've also just tested slowing down without applying brakes and the problem is still there. Accelerating is fine, it's just deceleration. Alas, it would appear something more expensive is afoot. Any pointers?