I'm going to have my little misfire sorted. When Simon did the LPG he reckoned there could be a dodgy injector.
i thought i'd have New coil packs, New HT leads (8mm), New spark plugs.
And it seems a bit of a waste to go in for just injectors so what's your thoughts for replacing parts while its all in bits???
I'd appreciate a shopping list of gaskets and such that would be worth doing. I figure to just have everything done at once whether it needs it or not rather than having to strip it back down at a later date costing twice the cash.
Rockers, upper inlet manifold, valley gasket etc.
thanks very much
This might be a silly question, but we've had a few hot days this last month. When the weather's hot, the car seems to drive much better. Smoother, quieter. Is it me, or is there something related?
I went on a 60 mile round trip over the North Yorkshire moors yesterday to pick a bath up. The roads are really nice and you can see for miles. There's loads of uphill, downhill though and i noticed i definitely have a power/performance problem.
Car was really struggling up hills. The acceleration was really slow and when i put my foot down, it changed gear no problem, the revs went up, but we didn't seem to gain much more momentum. Obviously we gained a little bit of speed but it was horribly slow. On the flat, it's fine. From time to time i could hear and feel a low droning/whirring noise. I could liken the noise to a microlight aeroplane overhead. One of those with the big fan on the back or perhaps similar to a dishwasher on a wash cycle. If i recall, it was usually as we were going down a hill and i'd taken my foot off. So basically coasting or over run. whichever the correct term is. Speed was generally 40-60mph most of the way.
Temperature is fine. never moved from the middle. Coolant level is fine. Engine oil level is good. Checked both diffs and levels are fine. Have no fault codes.
On a day to day basis, i'm usually on flat roads with not really any hills so i haven't noticed this as much although i have mentioned in previous posts about thinking the car is a bit under powered. I sold my other p38 yesterday but i drove it before i did, and it went like an F1 car in comparison.
I've just got round to inspecting my rattly sub and as i suspected, the cones a little ripped. I assumed (like PA speakers) i'd just undo the 4 bolts, lift the speaker out, remove 2 wires from the back and stick the new speaker in. No, no, no! i've took the 4 bolts out but the speaker is stuck in the hole. Do you have to take the whole sub out and dismantle it in order to get them out? I expected a 5 minute job.
Thanks
Is this the right one for my 2000?
I've seen a couple of different variations. I'm pretty sure it's this but thought i'd double check.
Ta
Found a nice pair of stainless back boxes at the scrappy today. £30. Bargain! Should clean up a treat. Hopefully have the boring stock ones replaced by the weekend.
Hello.
Got the book but no codes. Is that a hevac specific one?
Switch engine off and on and it goes. Park car for a few hours, switch back on and within a few minutes book is back. Like i say, i've looked for fault codes but torque says no codes stored in ecu.
I know the book says 28front and 38rear. I've got slightly bigger tyres and wondered if that still applies. I'm running 255/60/r18 instead of the usual 255/55/r18.
28 front always looks a bit soft, and 38 on the back is a bit hard.
What d'ya reckon?
Not sure if this counts as electric or oil. I figure there'll be both involved so i posted it here. This links on from my original post about the non exsistant fuel filter and my reason behind wanting to change it and also the chat about cleaning the injectors.
Got myself a cheapo elm327 obd reader and i have the following codes.
p0135 - Rave says Upstream heater LH bank - Short circuit or open circuit
p0155 - Rave says Upstream heater RH bank - Short circuit or open circuit
p0154 - Rave says Upstream sensor RH bank - electrical Open circuit
p1319 - Rave says Misfire detected with low fuel level
What's the score here then?
Lambda sensors? or a misfire that's causing the sensor(s) to not function correctly?
I can't access the "Oily bits" section. Anyone else have trouble?
I get the message "500 Server Error" and "Something went wrong"
I've tried chrome and firefox and it also doesn't work on my phone.
Here's a good one for Friday.
Why might i not be able to select Neutral? Red light doesn't come on either. It's as if there is no spoon. I mean there is no neutral. And for obvious reasons, i can't get it into low range.
It'll go in any gear
The corresponding red light comes on,
sportmode works
Drives spot on. No weird noises.
So, in the the vogue, there's all sorts of aftermarket stuff that would have been top dollar when installed. It's all a bit passed it's sell by date now.
The navigation system is by VDO Dayton. Seperate unit in the boot (vdo dayton pc5000) hooked up to a screen in the centre above the HEVAC. The screen is branded philips but is a VDO Daytom mm5000 (currently available on ebay for £19 so i've seen). Fits absolutely spot on where the factory sat nav screen would be.
The system all powers up but i don't have a sat nav disc and if i did, it would'nt be much cop as a sat nav. i prefer google maps. Anyway, i also have the external video box that plugs into the system for connecting external video sources (vdo dayton mi5000). This wasn't hooked up when i got the car but i've followed the wiring diagram but can't get it to work. perhaps the multimedia box is broke and thats why it wasn't connected. There's also been a bit of wire chopping gone on and it's a right old mess in there. Got screens in the back on a seperate system with switching relays for video source and all sorts.
I digress
My question is..........Can i rip out the sat nav module and hot wire the cable going to the monitor so i can directly hook up an external video feed. Lets say an android box or raspberry pi etc. No audio, i'll run that seperate into the radio. Literally just a video feed. I've found the wiring diagram for the 16pin connector that goes into the back of the screen and someones done the donkey work of identifying pins. Does anyone here have AV knowledge to confirm i can do what i'm on about?
The link is here. You'll have to get google to translate the page from polish. http://www.lightsound.com.pl/vdo-dayton-mm50005001-podlaczenie-sprawdzenie-opis-wtyczka/
Many thanks.
So the old one is going in for an MOT tomorrow before i stick it up for sale. Should pass ney bother.
Am i best off with ebay or the classifieds and what should i be asking? It doesn't owe me much.
2000 W reg 4.6 LPG in Alveston Red. Lighstone beige leather interior with red trim, red carpets. Interior good, wear in usual places.
Twin tailpipe stainless exhaust.
Good Rims.
Good tyres and new spare.
Clock says 240,000 but it had the engined changed many years back. So its done around 120k on engine.
Headlining great except for sunroof which is naff so i just leave it open.
Have all paperwork for the engine change and a stack about 3 inch high of receipts and service history going back to around 2003. absolute stacks.
Had all oils and filters and rear brakes done 6 months ago. 2 weeks ago had rear hub oil seal, track rod assembly and front pads done.
Bit of rust on front bonnet tip and lower tailgate
lol. this is sounding like an ad. im just after an idea of what i should be asking. £1200???
Since my eas leak is on the back burner til i get the part, i thought i'd have a look at why i might be experiencing a bit of a bumpy ride.
On LPG it's flawless. On petrol, it's a bit like mini bunny hopping. Kind of juddery. Putting your boot down a bit more fixes it but if you just let the juice trickle in it seems as though its been starved a bit.
Picked myself up a shiny fuel filter to see if that might be the cause. Turns out there's no fuel filter on the Thor engine under the chassis as its built into the fuel tank.
Is that correct?
If no filter change, any suggestions of next step? I chucked a bottle of injector cleaner in last week.
Thanks.
Morning.
I'll be attempting to tackle a small air leak today on the reservoir pipe from the block. I reckon it's a fudged o-ring and or collet.
I've got no gear to depressurize so the word on the street is stick it on access and just pull the pipe out (carefully of course)
After I'm done, I'm told to start the engine and leave the door open for 5 mins or so then shut door and suspension should be cock on with no EAS faults.
This all sound About right?
Got a mate at a local garage that have the software to put it right should it all go Pete Tong
Fingers crossed and goggles on.
Hi all.
New to the forum. Thanks for having me.
I live in.the North East.
Currently have 2 identical 2000 reg 4.6 P38's on lpg. Only difference is ones a vogue. Working through a couple of gremlins on the new vogue before I sell the other one. Richards given some good words of wisdom to help with the problem solving.
I was originally gonna buy a Jag but then the father in law bought a P38 so I followed suit. Apparently he'd always wanted one but clearly didn't do any research as he paid £3k for the 2.5 diesel. Lol. I trumped him with a 1500 quid 4.6 lpg that he says he wishes he'd bought. Now I've just bought a near mint vogue for 1600.
Anyone else from the North East near Middlesbrough?
Speak soon no doubt.