Same post as on the dark side as paul500. Australian flag. It doesn't get much hotter.
That is sods law or someone's law.
A tyre pump that runs off the cigar lighter doesn't have the oomph. I have had a few of those over the years. Pump and flash light combo usually.
The Britpart compressor with a dual head from Paddock Motors would be my choice. I thought they went bust?
The ARP compressors look the bees knees, but are too expensive imho.
The easiest option as mentioned is to just buy the fittings and keep them in the glove box ready.
If you carry them with you, the car will never break down. On the one occasion you leave them at home is when you get a problem.
With separate fittings, it is bit of a hassle to blow each airbag up individually. In the dark and pissing with rain.
I fitted a Tee in the line to the tank and fitted a gauge & shrader valve mounted on a stainless plate.
The advantage of fitting a Tee is the EAS continues to work as normal, assuming that the problem is just the air compressor that has packed in.
If it is the valve block or leaking bags, it won't solve that.
I do take a few shrader fittings and a length of tubing as well. If you have ever travelled any distance on the bump stops, it galvanises the mind.
Not a pleasant experience.
Originally I used push in fittings but they do leak eventually. I went to brass Wade fittings and they have been OK for maybe 12 years now. No problems at all. The underbonnet gauge is very handy. You can see what is going on.
My car started to lift a bit higher at around 6 bars or 90 psi. It depends on the weight in the car I guess. I think this was when I had a winch on the front. Like all p38 owners, my emergency chest in the back also gets bigger and heavier each year. Add on bull bars and roof rack. The diesel engine is 40 Kgs heavier than the petrol as well.
You will need a decent portable air compressor to take with you. At the time I bought a Ring compressor, not a particularly good make, but it has been OK. It doubles up as a tyre inflator. It goes up to 120psi. I would have prefered one that goes to 150 psi, which is the normal EAS pressure.
You can't run it off a cigar lighter plug, it is too much current. It uses battery clamps.
Paddock Motors has a good selection of portable compressors:
It could be the intank pump. Verify by doing a flow test as suggested. Book says min 180 mls in 10 secs.
Stop and open the filler cap when it looses power and cuts back to check if there is a vacuum (don't do it when moving Ha Ha).
You have got an earlier model without a MAF and EGR, so I am not as familiar with it.
There will an inlet manifold pressure sensor instead. Clean the sensor and check the tubing is OK.
The turbo puts out a lot of gunge into the intercooler and through to the inlet manifold. It may need a clean out.
When it goes into limp mode, it locks up into 3rd gear and has hardly any power. Just enough to get home.
I don't think it has gone into limp mode.
There is a plastic part that breaks on the early modulators. Can't remember the full details but do a search on RR.net,
The later ones were redesigned with a metal part. I half remember that it is repairable.
Easier to do what you have done and replace the whole modulator. There are different types.
I have done a bit of a search and it looks like nobody in the UK repairs them. I have tried a couple of places advertising Wabco pump rebuilds but none fix p38 pumps. The company in the States that does them is Falconworks . They are in Tucson, Arizona.
Also sell a digital book explaining ABS book @ $32 !!
I have got a couple of spares off Ebay that I have bought over the years, usually when no one bid on them and they were dirt cheap.
One said it was an "intermittent" problem meaning the pump worked one minute then didn't. I am reluctant to test it out obviously.
As an aside, does anyone know if anyone rebuilds the ABS pumps in the UK?
I half remember ages ago it was mentioned on RR.net back in the day that there was a company in the States that supplied parts and rebuilt them.
In California I think.
It would be a small demand and there would be a liability problem I guess. They are megabucks new.
I would not think they sell very many.
Hi Chris, I'm Dave and I'm a bloke.
Welcome to the forum. Some very knowledgeable people on here and the good thing is nobody takes the piss, unlike some other forums.
I have got a 2000 DSE, which I have had for nearly 20 years now. Had a Mk 1 Disco and a Classic previously.
I usually tackle a few jobs each year as well as normal maintenance. I have done the headlining and all the front bushes /wheel bearings over the past year or two. I live in Cheshire near Chester.
I have used silicone grease on the o-rings. Just a slight amount on your fingers.
Silicone grease is better on rubber and nitrile and not affected by moisture.
One way of getting bushes out is to thread a junior hacksaw blade through the hole, fit the blade back to the handle and cut slots in the bush.
I have done it a few times, but only on smaller bushes.
I ordered a strip from Marty and downloaded his instructions. It worked like a charm.
Apologies nigel. It probably expired on Dec 10.
The only reason I can see for changing/upgrading the compressor is if you have fitted Arnott Gen III's.
The extra 2" of lift that Gen III's give takes a lot of air. It quickly robs the tank when you put it on high. Not a problem if you are up to pressure and you go off road. One lift is fine. The problem arises when you go back on tarmac then go off road again. If the tank pressure has not built back up in time, it can't get back up.
FYI when I have bench tested rebuilt compressors with new seals, it took 6 mins or there abouts to get the accumulator from zero up to pressure. This was on the bench, not the car.
I personally like Marty's idea to fit two original type compressors. Like an installed spare with the ability to switch either one or both together.
As well as that, all travel to France is now stopped due to Macron's Omicron restrictions.
I notice it doesn't apply to HGV drivers though and it is not clear if you can drive straight through France to another country, like Spain for example.
There is a further 10% off with the following code:
I passed my car test well before 1997, so the rules didn't apply to me anyway. I had a HGV licence and I lost it when I turned 70.
To get it back I needed to pay for a medical by the doctor. I didn't bother, as I can't see myself driving HGV's again. I passed my HGV test in the TA, many, many, years ago. Largest vehicle I've driven is an Antar tank transporter. Also Leyland gun tractor and loads of AEC's and Bedfords.
Great fun and you get paid for it.
Caravans are easy to back up but I do have difficulty backing up a small 750Kg unbraked trailer though, particularly when in the p38.
It goes out of sight sometimes when backing up and turning at the same time. Easy to jackknife and break a back light.
Has anyone come across a 3D CAD model of the valveblock? Or even a dimensioned 2D drawing?
I have never seen a 3D CAD model or even an engineering drawing of the valve block.
The outside is a fairly simple shape, just rectangular blocks, so it should be possible to draw an approximation, to aid fitting it into a case for example.
However, the inside of the valve block is quite complex, with all the ports and internal passageways. To come up with a model showing all that detail it would have to come from official sources I think.
3D scanners are getting better all the time, so that maybe the route to get a scan of the outside of the block.