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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Nice job pete. Are those digital pressure gauges?

I assembled my control box from a kit made by an Aussie company and sold on via a US distributer. They don't do them any more.
It plugs into the car instead of the EAS ECU and gives full manual control of the system.
When used on the bench for testing a valveblock, I have a section of wiring harness that I bought from a scrapyard.

Pressure guage

Valveblock tester control box

I originally used pushfit connectors, they are widely used for industrial pneumatics, but they do leak eventually. The conditions in the engine compartment are not good for them. I switched to Wade brass fittings, the type that has a central spigot that the pipe goes over and an olive to tighten down on the pipe, been in for 10 years+.

You have added the last sentence since I posted.

Yes I have built a test rig for valveblocks. Anyone on the forum is welcome to come round to test their valveblock if they want. I live in Cheshire.
I haven't used it for several years, so I need a bit of notice to ensure it is working OK.

I put a Tee in the line to the reservoir. It is 6mm o.d.

Welcome Max. I have owned my p38 for nearly 20 years now.
Tick the jobs off on your car one by one. Lots of advice on here.

That sounds expensive for the kunifer pipes. I did my brake lines 10 or 12 years ago. I didn't replace all of them though. Just the ones from the brake booster to the back and over the axle. I put an extra joint in above the RH rear wheel arch to make it easier.

Use the proper tool for bending the pipes. It gives a nicer looking bend and avoids kinking the pipe.

I also replaced the flexible hoses for Goodridge stainless steel braided hoses. I specified +2" (I have got Arnott Gen3's) and stainless fittings.

I got the hoses as a kit from a supplier in Stockport. They are still going. http://goodridge.brakes-hoses-fittings.co.uk/car-kit-list-stainless.php

Less calorific value in E85 so it will do (slightly) less mpg, I would have thought. High ethanol content will also result in cooler running maybe.
Dragsters and old racing bikes ran on high methanol mixes which would have cooled the heads more than ethanol.
A big saving. though. I don't gloat over running a diesel anymore. I used to run it on a veg oil mix but the price of (virgin) veg oil has gone thro' the roof.

69c/L ????

I have got a hatch under the carpet in the back to get to the intank pump. It is just the steelwork cut on 3 sides that you bend up to get to the pump.
Not very satisfactory. It is just taped up with duct tape.
The last few days I have been busy printing a proper surround and cover in ABS using my new 3d printer to finish it off a bit better.
I am on version 7 or 8 now, so nearly there.
Noticed I am getting a lot of condensation inside the car recently due to the change in weather so I have put a dehumidifier in the back.
Took a logic board out of a spare BeCM to play around with diagnostics. I have built a jig for making connections without soldering to the pcb.
Took out Mayday breakdown cover. Starts in 2 days time so I need to hang on in there. Maybe hang a St Christopher medal on the dash.

To finish this topic off, I have gone with Mayday "Roadside and Recovery" @ £74 plus "Personal Cover" @ another £32.
Range Rover is down as the first car. "Personal Cover" then covers my other car as well. Also the wife's car and any other car I am driving or a passenger in. Caravans and trailer's are covered and double drop off - caravan taken to the site and car taken home/garage if needed.

My experience is they just get worse and worse, noisier and noisier when turning. I have never had one fail completely either on a p38 or other front wheel drive cars I have owned. You could nurse it along for a bit and keep your foot off the gas particularly when turning.
It is not too big a job changing them if you have got all the bits and the half shaft comes out OK. Maybe half a day.

Fit a pressure gauge so you can see what is going on.

Thanks for the comments guys. Plenty of room for thought.
My experience with the AA was many, many years ago. Anyone remember the yellow huts where they kept an emergency gallon can of petrol inside? You were issued with your own key to the door. The can would be stolen now, with the hut as well no doubt. Or the AA motorbike sidecars who would give you a smart salute as they passed?
Both the AA and RAC were flogged off to venture capital companies and then cut to the bone. It must be 20 or 30 years since I used them but I remember making calls and being told 2 to 3 hours wait. They are also expensive now.
I am tempted to go back to Green Flag/ Mayday through the caravan club and also add an extra car for £25.
I need to check out Autoaid and Start rescue as well.

Add this link as well Tailgate button seal

and this another seal

I don't wish to temp fate, but are there any recommendations for providing breakdown cover?
My p38 is currently not covered and it is coming up to 22 years old. I occasionally tow a trailer or caravan and I don't need European cover.
I would prefer a breakdown service that calls a local garage out rather than ones that have their own fleet like the RAC or AA.

The weight hardly matters, Its a Rangerover after all.
It is quite a substantially made tank. Take it off, wire brush it and paint it. Good for another 20 years.
I use cure rust gel and black hammerite underneath.

Another solution has come to mind.
There is a guy on RR.net (PsiDOC) who has developed an add on board for the engine ECU

ECU board .

It effectively does away with the immobiliser code.
Has anyone on here asked him the price of the boards or do I need to pm him? Interesting to see ballpark what we are talking about.

Modulators are bloody expensive new, like £2 to £3k, so that would be the reason for doing it.
There are different types as well. I am not even sure if you can buy new modulators now. Could have been on the dealers shelf for 20 years.
I got a few used modulators that have popped up on Ebay just in case. Along with Wabco controllers which sometimes go and used booster pumps.

An old post but here is an updated link to a guy on Ebay selling a service kit to repair the button Service Kit
Spring is stainless steel so should solve the corrosion problem.