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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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The 10% off voucher is "dec10-hankook" at the checkout.

I am on the Battery Megastore's mailing list having bought a battery from them earlier on this year.

Battery Megastore

For guys in the UK, they are now back in stock and there is a 10% off voucher, making the MF31-1000 now down to about £91.
Cracking battery if you haven't tried one before.

I have only just done the cover so the job is not 100% finished. So far I have just filed the edges to remove any roughness. It is still bright metal.
I was going to use Tiger Seal to bond the bottom frame bit to the metal. Maybe I should paint round with Hammerite or Rustoleum first.

Let me know when you want the files. You need a largish print bed of 230x230. My old one was only 200x200.
I printed it in ABS as I said, but ABS warps terribly. You may be better printing it in PETG or even PLA, it's easier.
I used 6mm nuts and bolts and 8mm screw inserts to screw the lid on.

Anybody who has other suggestions what to make, speak now. I was looking at fitting two air compressors, one outside the EAS box on a special bracket. I know Marty has fitted two compressors. Maybe a pressure gauge bracket for under the bonnet.
I am doing a windscreen ice scraper at the minute. Not needed in SA.

Yes, the tank was still in place when I cut it.
I used a dremel and their speedclic metal cutting discs. They are 38mm diam so don't protrude down much.
Just take your time, Amazing what you can do with a dremel.
If you print the bottom bit first you can locate it in the right place in the floor corugations and use it as a template.
Then use a marker pen on the inside edge.

I can confirm one of the points that Chasman made, because I have Arnott Gen III's fitted.
The spring rates are different compared to Dunlops. High is markedly softer, std is slightly harder and motorway height is quite a bit harder.
How is this? It is because the spring rate is dependant on the cross section of the piston, or the machined part (aluminium in the case of Arnott Gen III's) at the bottom that slides in and out of the air bag. The piston profile dictates the spring rates at various heights. Machine it different and you get a different rate. As mentioned dampers will be the same throughout the entire range, so they are a compromise.

Hi Harv, the cover is in two pieces and they were long prints using ABS filament, like 12 hours+ each, so I don't fancy doing a run of them, even to sell. It is just an interest of mine.
3d printers have never been so cheap, if you fancy having a go. They are under $200 now for a decent one. Made in China of course.
I can let you have the files. An alternative is for you to get it printed commercially but just a one off for you yourself personnally.
I don't want my designs to get released out there for everyone. Anyone to could then start selling them. With Thingiverse you have to agree it is non commercial before you can sign up.

I changed all my screws and bolts for stainless steel and I cut out new brackets from a sheet of stainless. Keeping it standard is not important to me.
Mud flaps and wheel arch liners come off easy now.

The only other things that come to mind are the leak off pipes between the injectors. Shouldn't cause it to cut out though. Maybe a rough tickover.
What about no.4 injector? Have you got a spare to try out?
Stuttering and dying is fuel. Maybe the FIP. Its a big job to change it.

Hi Sloth, I have gone back and changed the pics as you asked.
The hatch fits the corrugations in the floor and the cover / lid finishes flush, so the carpet lays flat. It is 205mm x 220mm. I couldn't print it before but I have got a new slightly larger printer. The hatch must be up to version 8 or 9 now. I have lost count. Two 6mm bolts on each side and another four to bolt the lid on. I used screw inserts to hold the lid.
I was going to use sealant between the floor and bottom bit but haven't bothered yet. It might be needed if you go wading.
It might be just me but I think there might be transmission noise being transmitted through the plastic cover, so I may stick some soundproofing underneath.
I have not yet posted the design on Thingiverse, but if you want to have a go at printing it, pm me and I will send the .stl files.

I have a hatch under the carpet in the rear to get at the intank fuel pump.
It is or was just a metal flap that you bend up to get at the pump and then taped down with duct tape the rest of the time.

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Not very satisfactory really, so I have printed a cover in ABS.

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It sits flush with the carpet.

Yes, the HP24 swap was easy because the person who did it (Dave Ashcroft) knew what they were doing. Ha Ha.

I got it done by Ashcroft Transmissions and fitted by one of their recommended garages.

Another thought on your engine problem ... there is a stop solenoid with a plug on the side of the FIP. Check the wiring is OK. It may have been damaged when you changed the engine.

It does sound to me like your intank pump. However, even with a non working pump, the FIP should pull the diesel through if it is more than half full.
I think you need to check a few things first to rule out what it can and can't be. Run some diesel out of the drain on the filter into a jug and have a look see. It may be dirty diesel or even water in the diesel. Did you fill up at a garage out in the sticks? Lot of flooding around the country over the past month.
Check the clear fuel line from the filter to the FIP for bubbles. Then unbolt the banjo on the FIP and put the pipe into a jug. Turn on the ignition and diesel should pump out. The book says min 180 mls in 10 secs. My car, a 2000 MY, pumps diesel as soon as the ignition key is turned. I think earlier cars it is when you crank. Make sure you don't drop the two copper washers on the banjo. Easy to do.
It might be something else. An intermittent problem may be difficult to solve. Have you been running it on veg oil? Can we rule that out?

Nice job pete. Are those digital pressure gauges?

I assembled my control box from a kit made by an Aussie company and sold on via a US distributer. They don't do them any more.
It plugs into the car instead of the EAS ECU and gives full manual control of the system.
When used on the bench for testing a valveblock, I have a section of wiring harness that I bought from a scrapyard.

Pressure guage

Valveblock tester control box

I originally used pushfit connectors, they are widely used for industrial pneumatics, but they do leak eventually. The conditions in the engine compartment are not good for them. I switched to Wade brass fittings, the type that has a central spigot that the pipe goes over and an olive to tighten down on the pipe, been in for 10 years+.

You have added the last sentence since I posted.

Yes I have built a test rig for valveblocks. Anyone on the forum is welcome to come round to test their valveblock if they want. I live in Cheshire.
I haven't used it for several years, so I need a bit of notice to ensure it is working OK.

I put a Tee in the line to the reservoir. It is 6mm o.d.

Welcome Max. I have owned my p38 for nearly 20 years now.
Tick the jobs off on your car one by one. Lots of advice on here.

That sounds expensive for the kunifer pipes. I did my brake lines 10 or 12 years ago. I didn't replace all of them though. Just the ones from the brake booster to the back and over the axle. I put an extra joint in above the RH rear wheel arch to make it easier.

Use the proper tool for bending the pipes. It gives a nicer looking bend and avoids kinking the pipe.

I also replaced the flexible hoses for Goodridge stainless steel braided hoses. I specified +2" (I have got Arnott Gen3's) and stainless fittings.

I got the hoses as a kit from a supplier in Stockport. They are still going. http://goodridge.brakes-hoses-fittings.co.uk/car-kit-list-stainless.php

Less calorific value in E85 so it will do (slightly) less mpg, I would have thought. High ethanol content will also result in cooler running maybe.
Dragsters and old racing bikes ran on high methanol mixes which would have cooled the heads more than ethanol.
A big saving. though. I don't gloat over running a diesel anymore. I used to run it on a veg oil mix but the price of (virgin) veg oil has gone thro' the roof.