I am not a fan of those devices either. You are better fitting a chip directly in the Bosch engine ECU.
The original chip needs unsoldering and replacing with a new one. If you fit a zif socket you can swap chips easily.
Done.
Dave
There is one on Ebay now for a diesel p38. Nanocom
sorry - just read you have got the 4.0L.
I've got a small model making lathe with a self centering chuck and a friend of mine also has a watchmaking lathe if I need one.
The tips look stainless steel or possiblly mazak as Richard said. Stainless is not easy to machine, by me anyway. If you cock it up thats the end of the valve block.
I was thinking of cleaning up the conical end in a lathe. Just take a thou or two off.
Better pic
I get get condensation in mine from time to time. Made worse by the fact that my aircon has not worked for serveral years (new years resolution).
I have a cheap mains dehumidifier and I leave it running in the car 24/7 for a week at a time. It shifts a shed load of water.
I invested in a cooling system pressure tester for investigating leaks. The one i have got is actually made in the States by Stant. I bought it on Amazon. It comes with its own pump and you also need to buy the right adapter to fit the reservoir (BMW).
It has proved really useful. Just pump up the system, from memory I think to around 10 psi, and leave it for a few hours to see if the system is tight.
Apart from the dreaded jubilee clips and perished hoses, I have found one of the main source of leaks is the reservoir itself. The caps wear and leak and eventually the plastic screw thread gets worn. I put a bit if silicone grease on the thread so the cap can be tightened down fully.
The level in my reservoir levels off around the top and bottom join in the plastic. Fill it any more and it will loose a bit before levelling out.
Can't help with the oil loss. I have got the diesel, which always blows smoke from the exhaust and drips oil !
For what purpose other than malevolence? They have skills that should be put to good use.
Thanks Richard.
What is going on? and who are you fotso?
You have copied my signature and also your post is a verbatim copy of my original post back in May 2019.
Explain.
I am at a bit of a loss for words. Read the article and watch the video.
Anyone know where it is and who the breaker is? His future pension is assured.
I have always used the main brands, like Girling or Mintex. The brakes on a p38 can overheat though. I remember driving down from the Hardnott Pass in the Lake District a few years ago, a 33% incline in places. Shall we say some "spirited driving" throwing a 2.5t vehicle around. I pulled up at a halt sign in Ambleside in a cloud of smoke. The discs were glowing red hot.
Some of the after market pads (not sure about EBC) don't "bite" at low speed I believe. Got to be up to temperature before they work. In the mean time you run into the back of a car.
Diesels came with either a manual gearbox or an auto box. The cooler for the manual box was integrated into a section of the radiator near the bottom. The cooler for auto box models is under the LHS front wing. I think the very, very early ones (1995/96?) had no cooler under the wing. The gearbox does clearly overheat and later models ... from 1999 I think, then also had a fan fitted.
Engine oil coolers are separate and situated behind the radiator along with the turbo intercooler.
I am not aware there is an early and late radiator for the diesel. I think it is just two different types i.e. manual and auto.
The diesel radiator water connections, in and out, are all at the top unlike the petrol rads.
Aftermarket rads for the diesel now all seem to be for the manual gearbox car. These can be fitted to the auto box cars but the section for the gearbox is just left unconnected. That is probably what you can see.
I have actually got an alloy rad on mine and has been left disconnected. Been like that for 10 years+.
Not sure about OEM rads, whether they still do both types.
I have got a Double S stainless system on my diesel. It has been on for 10 years+ now.
All bought secondhand on Ebay. I bought a rear section first then later on a stainless middle box. It is one thing I would buy secondhand. It worst, as long as there are no loose baffles. it can be welded up and repaired. Diesel pipes also point down at the back. I have got twin exhausts.
A couple of comments about Double S :- My pipes are 409 and the boxes are 304 so there is surface rust on the pipes. The clamps and flanges which are quite substantial are just mild steel. My particulate filter from the manifold is just factory mild steel.
It is a pity the guys have decided to flog it. I was looking forward to seeing a full rebuild.
They have obviously taken on too many projects.
I have done a bit of delving and surprise, Ashcrofts now do a conversion kit to allow the v8 bellhousing/torque converter to be fitted to either the M51 diesel or M57 diesel.
If money were no object, that is the way to go. If you stick with the diesel bellhousing, the diesel torque converter is the only one that fits.
When they fitted my HP24 box, I bought an uprated diesel torque converter from them. It was the only option at the time. The v8 bellhousing is a better option, omho. Stick with the diesel gearbox ECU and get the engine chipped.
I also see Ashcrofts now do viscous couplings as well. They never used to.
I think I am also confusing the torque converter with the viscous coupling. I remember there was a discussion on the other site about putting new silicone fluid in the viscous coupling, which are no longer available new. The characteristics of the coupling can be changed by using a different viscosity oil. A thicker oil for less slip for off road work.
When I had my HP24 fitted by Ashcofts I got them to fit an uprated diesel TC. I am not sure how it differs exactly, whether different internals off another L/R model. The fluid in the TC will be transmission fluid won't it?
You can't fit the bigger V8 torque converter to the diesel. The only TC that fits into the diesel bellhousing is the diesel TC.
At one stage Ashcrofts used to offer an uprated diesel TC (manufactured by someone else I think) but they have stopped doing them.
It looks identical to the standard one. I suspect it maybe just a thicker fluid in a standard one that some enterprising chap modified.
Mapping the diesel does raise the gear change points. Why exactly, I don't know.
Also, it may be that the one Linley that is shown as sorned is the one in the Dunsfold collection. It was acquired by them in 2013.
Didn't I read on here there is an unaccounted Linley somewhere in the Midlands that is a bit of a wreck?
The guy knows what it is and wants too much for it.
Just checked and Holland and Holland models seem to be getting rarer and rarer nowadays.
Just 20 licenced and 21 sorned as of Q1 this year.
One Linley sorned since 2015.