C362 (up to 99MY) C1286 (from 99MY) 16 pin black

1 LH front door serial data bus (data)
2 LH rear window anti-trap 2
3 LH front window anti-trap 2
4 LH rear door open
5 LH rear window anti-trap 1
6 Movement detected (by volumetric sensor)
7 LH rear window down
8 LH door mirror position
9 LH front door serial data bus (direction)
10 LH front door serial data bus (clock)
11 LH front window anti-trap 1
12 and 13 Not used
14 LH rear window up
15 Volumetric sensor power supply
16 LH rear window anti-trap power supply

In case you have missed something, here is the BeCM sleep test wording from my diagnostics help pages:-

1. Sit in the vehicle in the driver seat with all the doors closed.
2. Wait until the interior light switches off.
3. Switch on the ignition.
4. Switch off the ignition.
5. Open the driver door and leave the door open for the reminder of the test.
6. Switch off the interior lights by pressing the button for 4 seconds. On the message centre you can observer the message "Lights off".
7. The message centre displays "Ignition key in" for approximately 2 minutes.
8. If the display goes blank after the two minutes, then the BECM is gone to sleep, if the display is still on, then the BECM did not go to sleep.

I have just found out that RRToadhall passed away in April of this year, for those who haven't heard. A freak accident apparently, but no details given.
Also Wammers from Landyzone is no more.
Despite disagreements with them, RIP to both of them.

I made up a special tool to get the sensor moving which works well. As Garvin said there is a ridge around the circumference of the sensor at the top. I ground down an old cycle cone spanner that just fits under the ridge. It spreads the load out evenly around the circumference. It is thin and made of hard steel. There is enough space to get a small ball joint forked wedge underneath the spanner. A few taps with a hammer on the wedge and it starts to move. Problem with using a big screwdriver as a lever is it acts in one area and the amount of force used damages the sensor. A normal spanner will also not fit hence the reason for using a thin cycle cone spanner. It is probably 1/8 to 3/16" thick.
A bit of preparation is needed first. I wire brushed around the sensor with a small stainless steel wire brush. Then soak it for a few hours with proper penetrating fluid.
The sensor and inside the hole need polishing with emery paper and wire wool. I used silicone grease for reassembly. It is more water proof.

If you can't find the link, it is here:-

autogas stockists

There is an interesting article in the latest sept edition of the Camping & Caravan Club magazine. It is specifically about refilling gas cylinders with LPG, instead of using the usual Calor exchange cylinders.

The magazine article does mention about Shell and BP pulling the plug on Autogas. It said to use camping-gas.com website to find outlets.

The price of propane is getting higher and higher. I have got 3 x 6kg propane cylinders after I standardised on the 6kg Calor propane cylinder for the caravan, home BBQ and my workshop. I recently changed a Calor cylinder and it was £26 for 6kgs! I also have a butane Camping Gaz 907 for just in case.

I have got the diesel p38 but I can't feel smug about it. I use to run virgin edible oil mixed in with the diesel at 50 to 75% usually.
Not any more though. I used to buy 20L containers from Costco. If they have it at all now it is over £25 for 20L.
I checked on prices and in 2014 it was only £12.99 for 20L.

I can't answer that, as I don't have the mats. I will try to get back on this project shortly.

Yes, I have seen the petrol ones that work without a BECM. I just wondered about the diesel. The diesel ECU sends a signal to the stop solenoid on the FIP to stop it starting until it is sync'ed. Maybe they have picked up on a pin and hard wired it inside the ECU?

There are two memory chips side by side in the ECU. One contains the fuel mapping. That is the one you change when chipping the engine. I have had a good look through it with an eprom programmer and that is all the information it contains. The other chip contains the EMS code and not much else. It needs to be unsoldered to read it. I just wondered if someone was reprogramming this second chip. News to me.

I have just noticed this advert on ebay for a diesel engine ECU that has had the immobiliser programmed out.
Anyone heard of this before? and how is it done?
The Bosch engine ECU has a fixed EMS code stored in it. It is set at the factory and cannot be altered. The BECM reads and compares the code and sends a start signal if they are the same.
When an ECU is chipped with a different performance map it does not alter this code, it is stored elsewhere in the ECU.

diesel engine ecu

Check the wheel nuts as well. I remember a few years back I had severe vibration with my small trailer.
I found my son had put the wheel nuts on the wrong way round. The conical bit of the nut should fit into the recess on the wheel to centralise it.

Trailers also have got to be type approved now i.e. from a reputable manufacturer. Home built trailers are illegal.
There is however a grandfather clause that trailers built before a certain date are excempt. Can't remember off hand what the date is, but It said you had to have the date of manufacture on the A frame. I have got a small trailer that I made back in the year dot and I just painted a date on in case I am stopped by someone just out of Hendon.

JLimmelman: the transfer box made a crunching sound when put into "D" with the engine running. The selector shaft was tested while in the car and moved the full range.
While on the bench, I rotated the shaft by hand and the other end moved freely. Can't remember if it was the input or output shaft I twisted, but all seemed OK.
I should have done what you said and done it more thoroughly. Counted the rotations and maybe put 12v on the motor to test it.
I think something is wrong inside, so I will split the case again and have a look.
Have now ordered the scissor lift.

I am not quite in the same league, but I have a heavy'ish caravan @ about 2 tonnes and have done quite a few thousand miles throughout europe over the years. Not even remotely near Richard's mileage though.
I would also say check the tyres. Jack one side up and spin each wheel. See if anything is amiss. Wheel nuts loose? Any play in the wheel bearings? Older tyres with steel reinforcing are more prone to flats if it has been layed up. Check tyre pressures and examine the treads. It is also worth checking the date letter on each tyre. Bin them if over 7 years old.
Is the trailer hitch worn? It may come off the ball if it is. Is there a stabiliser? Friction pads worn?

Thanks for the comments guys and the photos were great.
I think I will buy one then. The cheapest is about £110 or so. I prefer a Sealey badged one even if they are all the same. Hilka do them as well.
I have got an extra 2" of lift on the car with the Arnott Gen III's so it may clear. I have also got a set of ramps and HD axle stands just in case.
I plan to do it in stages and rope some mates in. I am still smarting over the money the garage charged and nothing was accomplished.
I haven't found the problem yet Richard. The box is back under my workbench where it lay for many years.
I suspect that when I split the case to change the planetary gears, maybe the selector mechanism didn't go back quite right. Even though I turned it by hand. Won't know till I take it apart again. I am getting geared up to have another go at it over the next week or two. It has got to be Do It Yourself with a p38. I will weld up a frame to hold the box or make one in wood.

Anyone used one of these?

It is a Sealey scissor type transmission lift. TJ150E.

Looks ideal for lifting in a transfer box. It is rated for 150 Kgs and the transfer box weighs 75 Kgs.
Made in China and re badged. A few people do them.

The washer does seem to be held captive on the thread which would explain it.

I have actually taken the injectors apart. It is a simple pintle valve design. There was nothing actually wrong with them but I soaked the parts including the nozzles in caustic soda. The idea was to remove carbon deposits. I left them soaking for a few days then reassembled them.
Result ... same as before. No discernable difference.

I assume the blowbye is from the thread on the main body where it screws into the head. Not the top and bottom parts of the injector that screw together? Would a simple copper washer not do? Not tried it but I have got a couple of old static engines and the injectors just have a copper washer. Or else buy an injector on Ebay. £20 max.

Hello ac6 and welcome to the forum. It is good to have another member that shares an interest in 3d printing.

The project is still ongoing, but only with partial success up to now. I have spent about 6 or 7 hours on it so far. Sorry if it sounds like a 3d printing forum to you other guys.
Here is an update on the parts I am printing:
Top Clip ... the one I put on Thingiverse above. The drawing is done (Openscad) and I printed the part out using a UV photocuring resin printer. The resin is similar to ABS in strength. It is better for small parts. It has a higher resolution and has a better finish. I tried to make the top surface a bit more domed but there were problems getting a nice finish on it. It needs to be flat on the build plate. I may make it a bit thicker and the slot a bit deeper but it will have to stay flat and with no arrows. The part to me seems OK but needs testing to see if it needs beefing up. I don't think an FDM printer would produce a strong enough part that small. Maybe in ABS but not PLA.
Also KCR's pic shows a top clip with two lugs on. I have done nothing about that so far and I don't know where it goes.
Bottom Clip .... I have again done a drawing including the screw to go into the carpet but it has proven very difficult to print out. I was again using the UV resin printer. Tried it round different ways on the build plate and with and without supports. My current thinking is to split it into two parts then glue them together using a proprietary 3d printing glue.
The Middle section .... as shown in KCR's photos above. I have not started on it yet.
While I am at it, big thanks to KCR for the pics and to Holland and Holland for sending some parts to me for copying. Unfortunately I don't have those particular rubber mats which makes it difficult.
Blanking plug for the headlight wipers .... in KCR's pics above ........ nothing so far.
Blanking plug for the towing sockets .... sent to me by H & H ......... I have done a drawing but it is again difficult to print. Domed surfaces don't stick too well. I have done about 4 or 5 experimental prints using both FDM and UV resin printers. Again, I may be able to print it in two parts and glue them together.
All these parts would have been injection moulded originally.
Keep watching this space.

Yes, but how do I do attachments? Suppose I could go over to the dark side to post it.

........ done.

If the battery is OK, how about the earthing points? Do they need a clean up? Particularly engine and gearbox.
Also gearbox electrical plugs/sockets. Squirt of contact cleaner inside?

You are talking about the copper washer/seal where the injector screws into the head? I couldn't find any either. No demand I guess. Opels and Vauxhalls that used the engine have long since disappeared, just a few p38's left now.
If there is a local diesel repair shop that repairs pumps and injectors, they may be able to match it if you take an injector in. They are Bosch injectors and it is a BMW M51 engine. You need a special socket with a cutout in it to get the injector out.