Orangebean wrote:

TPS best checked with an old fashioned analogue multimeter. It's just a potentiometer so move it slowly through its travel and monitor the resistance rising/ falling with no glitches.
Decent mate will do in the morning when I fit plugs

Sorru mate me being thick ( throttle position )
Read the codes the other day and it came back random missfire but nothing on tps...............mind these newer cars never know whats wrong with them these days a I miss the good old days lol

Cheers mate, whats tps ?

Sure its been asked 1 million times before so sorry if it is boring just want to do things right as I go along
4.6 Thor 2000 on LPG shall I use BPR6ES at 0.7mm ?
she has a slight miss, new coil packs and leads on gas or petrol maf connected or disconnected the same worse in lock up on motorway as she juders.

Well kinda going well !see new post mate !

gordonjcp wrote:

I've got a click from the back when going from forward to reverse and vice versa, which apparently is down to the rivets in the rear swingarm working loose. Apparently "they all do that sir" and short of taking the arm off, drilling out the rivets, and replacing them with high-tensile bolts there's not a lot to do about it.

Dont know if anyone has seen the 13 plate evoke posts where it needs a new engine and landrovers response is "well you had good use out of it" !
Great a.

The most worrying is the loudish rumble when shes kicked down hard from the rear end.

Yes I have seen many different posts on plugs.........I just had an NGK iridium snap in my bike head and I have had problems with the old Champions just breaking down on brand new sets before, It does feel like a cylinder that is miss firing but not all the time ! if only it was easy a !!!

Well the gearbox is sorted now new problems !
The 2 are un related I know and I have a few ideas just want some input please.

As far as running goes NGK plugs fitted 3 K ago, new leads and coils ( new delphi )on idle she sound and feels a bit lumpy and when driving especially cold it feels like a miss when warm it goes away abit (after 10 miles on the motorway ) but she seems to be lacking torque in lock up and likes to kick down...never did before, at hills she seems to need an extra push where before she flew up, same on gas and petrol no change, new Champions ordered and thinking of changing the Maf...right route ? also what gap shall I do on the plugs ?

Now the ramble or whatever it is.......on a quick take off or braking there seems to be a click think its from the rear end, if you kick her down there is a rumble from the rear..not nice but running there is no vibration and the rear mirror is stable ( normally if the rear diff is on the way out this tends to vibrate.....mind it is a P38 ! )

I am thinking prop or joint maybe ? just this clicking is throwing me out.

Mind my mates L322 he did a valve block and RHS to last week wont reset or go up or down so he is off to the stealers monday ! so this time I have the right end I hope !

Well guys sorry for the delay...............weeks went passed and I were still waiting, I kept ringing and being told yeah be back tomorrow.............tomorrow came yesterday !
I have been down the garage all week and tried to forget about it been flat out so far done 4 cars and a new loom headlamp brake pads to my ZZR ( another baby and a saved piece of mechanical invention for me ) yesterday about 1pm whilst in the middle of a Picasso exhaust I paused to speak to my mate the owner of the garage and as it had become a kind of joke with the bike fixed and the storms coming in I joked " guess what I wont be driving tomorrow !" as he replied "the range rover" the phone rang! the gearbox place !!! strange dont often hear from them !!!!! they said we have some news..........the cars ready ! I could not believe it and asked if they were sure ? yes ready for collection open until 5 pm, just then euro turned up with the exhaust for the Picasso so under the ramp call to the missus and on the bike home and a lift to pick her up !
As it had been some time more than there "5-10 day turn around " I did ask what were up ? I mean it went in the start of January and now the end of February ??? I must say that James who I had spoken to on the phone came through and sat with me for a very relaxed chat that lasted about 15 minutes, he said that they had stripped the box and found that the clutch between D and R had burnt out and after a complete rebuild re-fitted it and tested it it again failed, reset fail reset fail and again they took it out and stripped it before the top guy set about rebuilding it again with new parts and found that this time the clutch in the back had flipped over causing the problems, after a rebuild they refitted it but the selector would not line up so new XYZ and dropped it again before refitting it and a very comprehensive test afterwards as in his words it was a nightmare ! total time 24 hours, now has me thinking, they do have about 12 ramps and are the top in the area and if it was not my car I would think it was error but as it is my car with my luck then no its the second !!!
Anyway he also commented that for a 2000 it drives so well with so much power he said that its nicer than most of the new stuff they have in and quicker ! smoother and more solid ( they have around 3-6 L322's in at a time ! ) I told him I believe in servicing and maintained cars and he said well done it shows.............just an upper for me here !
Anyway, 30 miles down the line shes smooth on the change, transfers the power better and feels quicker off the mark and through the torque, seems to be doing all the right things but time will tell.
I am so happy I have her back, now I am off to fit new pollen filters and rear tailgate strap with new 6.5" speakers in the sub box this morning to her then the discs and pads next week as time is running out on this one.

Sorry for the long message but I am great full of all the help on here and on some forums you see people post and ask questions and they never have the politeness to post as to the outcome and I think thats a little rude so here you go.

Still not back ! keep ringing and they say we will call you back ? ring again now monday call back.........just for those that helped me as so they know the outcome.

gordonjcp wrote:

The GS and GSA had inboard front calipers, great for freaking out the spotty youths in Kwkft. It was not until I owned a GSA myself that I worked out what the funny bent 17mm spanner in my dad's old toolbox was for :-)

Talking of Kwik con.........sorry Kwik Fit, I had my CX in to them for new rear discs when I were 17 years old, my dad with me, after the "free" safe check the guy told us that the shock abs were leaking !, he even showed us the fluid and sure enough it was hydraulic fluid......not green LM but dirty brown the stuff that errrrr .................comes out of shock abs ! well we strait away said to the guy " just fit em, whatever it needs " and he went away to get a price for us which did take about 25 minutes of ringing around, now, after having a number of CX's, BX's and even SM's (2) we knew the guy was up to a con here but we silently waiting even showing our concern......anyway the guy returned and told us that he had indeed had trouble finding a pair but success he had located a pair however they would not be there until the next day being French and such a rare car...........he continued to say that the car was unsafe and that he suggested that WE DO NOT DRIVE IT AWAY and leave it there until they had fitted them and even suggested that the spings were now past there best as due to having no help from the faulty absorbers !!!!!!
We asked to see the faulty parts and he showed us the leaking (non Citroen fluid) and said there you go, I have concerns ! my dad then said regards his concerns ! and said show me the springs the shocks the oil is green...you get the picture here.

A few years later i had a Senator CDi 24v which they did the pads and discs on and it would not stop, again my dad did not believe me so drove it himself and agreed.again I were right ! they had also broken the ABS sensors off and my dad rang the head office,,,,,,,,an hour later the phone rang, a voice on the other end of the phone asked to speak to Reg my dad and gave his name as Tom, I said dont know a Tom get lost ! he said Tom Farmer, Kwik fit ! true story he rang refunded the costs and paid Vauxhall to repair and re fit the car to spec as they had fitted the wrong pads !!!!

Decent stuff mate, just want to keep her running sweet thank you.

When I get mine back I want I would like to "service" the system...........any good places or can I do it myself ? dose it need re-setting or anything ? I am in Portsmouth

Should have it back for Friday !
Then new discs and pads all round next week.........cant wait to get my hands dirty on her again !

Gilbertd wrote:

On a DS it was a bit more complicated as the front brakes were inboard, but even then, a damn site easier than changing the handbrake pads on a Jag you just had to remove a few more bits to get to them.

I had a similar experience on the ID19. Drove for miles with a flat rear tyre and only realised when I could hear a strange noise while reversing with the window open.

they were superb mate so safe shame about the rot on them, I spent 8 weeks doing all the body work on the Pallas when I were 16 years old.......................was that the Jag 4.2 with the marina box ! same on the Rover SDI a complete pain.

Gilbertd wrote:

2 or 3 points out is quite normal but 15 seems quite a bit out and I would have expected it to correct for that. The car does have to be sitting perfectly level though.

I have as you can tell made the mistake of a non level surface.
Could be wiring to a sensor as well that has resistance through corrosion on one corner, if it is easy to check as it will be in the plug that gos to it or that part of the wire, sensors very rarely go wrong its normally the wiring.................it is a P38 after all !

Ferryman wrote:

It is not strange people always were (and still are) attracted to Citroëns of the '50s and '60s, they were way ahead and daring in design which had it's own charm. Starting with the legendary Traction Avant, 2CV, ID/DS, CX and XM.
The suspension hydraulics, the one button brakepedal, the one spoke steeringwheel. They were just not that 'home mechanic' friendly, ever renewed frontpads? You had to dismantle half the front end.
My brother still has a CX diesel (2,5?) in his backyard with the separately bolted-on 5th gear, although spiders and other small livestock have taken over posession of it, I don't think it will ever move again on it's own power.
Oh and the drivers seat is missing, I 'borrowed' it in the late '80s for my 109" Santana Cazorla and never gave it back (shame).

The suspension was so far advanced, under hard hard breaking the front end never dipped about or anything, I remember my dad driving at 90 mph with a flat rear tyre and me telling him that I were sure it was flat and him insisting that I were a child and did'nt know........50 mies later at the garage when he looked and found only a ring of black rubber on the rim did he start to agree with me !

I had an Athena which had a front blow out at 60 mph ( I do lots of miles ) and hardly felt it.

In Scotland in the snow it pulled where others would not.

I miss the old CX

Did you calibrate the heights on a dead level surface ? are ride height sensors free and not sticking at all ?
Had the same issues a few times I always follow this

Get the car on a level ramp, place a spirit level the front cross beam to be exact and while you are under there check all 4 ride height sensors are free from any dirt grit and clean as required a bit of silicone lube on rubbers frees em off and look inside the shied as it holds mud !

take the original heights write them down

Blocks in and drop on low read the heights and write them down

take her up and write these new heights in to the memory and confirm.

Drop her down and up again and re-read the heights and they should be the same as you wrote.

Do not worry if the written height are out by say 10 or 5 or whatever this is normal ie you would nearly never be so lucky to have 75 FL and 75 FR there is always a difference.

Hope this helps but remember always double check the heights after you have adhusted

Lift the left hand side front kick panel and check the wiring from the hole in the bulkhead and underseat to ecu, they suffer from rot there due to damp, also when di you last change the air dryer ? when you did the suspension work did you change it ?

scary words "landcruiser" apart from front end rot they do seem to be reliable but are lacking inside on finish to a range rover, i mean they have it just not so good in my opinion anyway and I guess most on here as they run P38's
I fitted a new front end to a 57 plate Patrol 2 weeks back and I am just saying the amount of rot is scary it was that bad the rot had gone into the rad and failed it.